Setting Auber PID Temp, Time, and Other Values

[mosparky]

Refresh my memory here. Are you running an MES with the original safety switch intact ? Your graph sure look like it.

 

[zwiller]

Refresh my memory here. Are you running an MES with the original safety switch intact ? Your graoh sure look like it.

Yepper, was thinking that myself. That said, I've run 325F a number of times and worked fine. For now, let's forget 325F... Will run a test @ 275F tonight. What I am trying fix is how long it's taking to heat up. WAAAAY longer than stock. Like 90m. Runs near perfect once but seems too long. I realize there's a trade off...

 

[JC in GB]

Yepper, was thinking that myself. That said, I've run 325F a number of times and worked fine. For now, let's forget 325F... Will run a test @ 275F tonight. What I am trying fix is how long it's taking to heat up. WAAAAY longer than stock. Like 90m. Runs near perfect once but seems too long. I realize there's a trade off...

Long heating times are most likely the heating element. Failing that, it could be resistance build up at the electrical connectors. You cold try a steel wool scrub on the element terminals to see if that makes any difference. If it isn't failing connections, the only thing left is the element, or the power switch. Is the Auber a relay output or silicon switch?

JC

 

[tallbm]

Yepper, was thinking that myself. That said, I've run 325F a number of times and worked fine. For now, let's forget 325F... Will run a test @ 275F tonight. What I am trying fix is how long it's taking to heat up. WAAAAY longer than stock. Like 90m. Runs near perfect once but seems too long. I realize there's a trade off...

Your chart shows things dying off around 300F.
That makes sense with the original safety switch that is 302F/150C hence that big drop in temp and build back up.

It seems that you hit 275F or so in around 15 min just guessing by the grid pic you posted.

300F+ will be a problem with that original switch in place.

Im curious with your P and your I settings how fast you hit 275F.

 

[zwiller]

Long heating times are most likely the heating element. Failing that, it could be resistance build up at the electrical connectors. You cold try a steel wool scrub on the element terminals to see if that makes any difference. If it isn't failing connections, the only thing left is the element, or the power switch. Is the Auber a relay output or silicon switch?

JC

THANKS. Running straight wire without the Auber would rule out element/connector issue right?

No idea what it is, maybe you an extrapolate from specs? https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=14_28&products_id=702

 

[mosparky]

I also have the wiFi Auber and just starting to use it. I judt did some 3-2-1 ribs and it seemed to take forever to reach temp. Mine I noticed dropped to 45% power at 10-15 degrees below set. I may still have some connection issues at the element and Pretty sure P&I could stand to be tweeked a bit. On the bright side, once it hit set point it stayed rock solid. +/- 0

 

[chopsaw]

Mine I noticed dropped to 45% power at 10-15 degrees below set.

OK , here's the good . You're watching the light , so you know it's coming out of full power to soon . What do you have P set at ? . Pick a number , say 5 and leave it alone .

Pretty sure P&I could stand to be tweeked a bit.

So if you're at P=5 and it starts to blink 10 degrees to soon , lower the value of I and start again . Continue this until you get it to stay in full power 5 degrees before set temp .

 

[chopsaw]

300F+ will be a problem with that original switch in place.

Once you trip the limit switch you completely confuse the Controller . It keeps searching for a load that's not there . Sends it into an open loop . I had it happen when I tried to crank mine up . Had to abort the cook and let it reset itself .

There is also a high limit alarm under code 188 . Factory is 190 for the high limit . It doesn't say that it effects power output , but it sure acted like it on mine . When the alarm went of the power light was blinking and stepping down the out put .

 

[zwiller]

Your chart shows things dying off around 300F.
That makes sense with the original safety switch that is 302F/150C hence that big drop in temp and build back up.

It seems that you hit 275F or so in around 15 min just guessing by the grid pic you posted.

300F+ will be a problem with that original switch in place.

Im curious with your P and your I settings how fast you hit 275F.

Thought that too but ran 325F a few times and no issue. Not sure what kind of switch but thought it would just die and not reset like a fuse. Let's regroup and forget the 325F stuff... Test will be straight wire to 275F tonight to rule out element/MES itself.

 

[chopsaw]

. Not sure what kind of switch but thought it would just die and not reset like a fuse.

snap disc / bi-metal strip . Resets when it cools .

 

[dr k]

I am fumbling in the dark. Set for 325F. Tried all sorts of settings, never made it to temp and had to call it. Granted it is 40F here in Ohio... Seemed like it did warm up faster tho and curve is much better. Am I correct that if I set PID to 000 it will power up to 325F and shut off once it hits? Studying this now... https://www.controleng.com/articles/learning-pid-loop-tuning-from-an-expert/

View attachment 658365

If P=0 regardless of the I and D values it's an on/off controller like the stock digital Mes or rheostat type controller. You can run P mode with P=1 or a higher number with I and D being 0. This should be in your manual. It's in mine with the WS-1510ELPM Auber with the senario of P=7, showing the path and drop % in heating, pulsing electricity going up to the set temp. This means if P = 3, I and D=0, then 3 degrees below set temp it's full power light on, then 2 degrees below set temp it's 2/3 pulsing power, then 1 degree below is 1/3 pulsing power and at set temp it's off. It may overshoot and on the way down 1 degree below set temp will pulse 1/3 power etc. to manage temp but isn't enough. I use P=1, I and D=0 a lot so one degree below set temp is full power and 1/2 degree below (even though the resolution is in one degree increments) is 50% power pulsing electricity and goes past set temp with preheating. I set the temp to 265 and may over shoot to 275 max, then reset the controller to 275 when it hits 275 I like to smoke ribs, butts and briskets at. No waiting. I can't wait for more than 30 min to get to desired temp. Also, P=1 I&D=0 means on the down coast your're pulsing 50% electricity 1/2 degree below set temp which is max pulse, then full power 1 degree below set temp to recover as you come in for a two degree cycle for a 15lb brisket. I do like changing my parameters from a P mode to PID mode once the brisket slows on sucking down heat when the chunk of meat is cold. I like chopsaw I and D values of 208 and 210 respectively and keep my P=1 maybe 2 or 3. I don"t wait for the temp it waits for me. You can go on/off to preheat P=0 or P=1 I&D=0 and in 20 minutes or so your preheating has hit your set temp if going max to 275 in the foam insulated digital Mes. Open the smoker that lets all the heat out when you put in the meat and do P=1, I&D=0 to get a 15lb brisket to set temp in 30-60 minutes, then set I=208 and D=210 for 1, 208, 210 for the overdrive cruising cook for the hours needed to the finish line without waiting the first hours to get to desired temp as the cold meat soaks up heat. Auber sent me a chart on turning rice cookers, crockpots and steam tables into holding vessels to the degree. They aren't all PID mode. You have on/off when P=0 as mentioned above, P mode, PI mode, PID mode, PD mode like P=4, I=0 and D=40 for crockpot Sou Vide (which is excellent before I got my SV stick circulator.) The PD mode is also a great crockpot yogurt maker.

 

[JC in GB]

THANKS. Running straight wire without the Auber would rule out element/connector issue right?

No idea what it is, maybe you an extrapolate from specs? https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=14_28&products_id=702

Yes, if you plug the element right into 120 VAC, it should get hot but you will have no control. If it doesn't get hot enough, then you know you have a bad element. I am going to assume the controller uses a silicon switch. Reading through other responses, I am wondering if your thermal cutoff is causing the issue. If you short the connector tabs, you defeat the over temp sensor. You could do that test also.

JC

 

[chopsaw]

I figured after reading some of this I would fire mine up and see what the settings were .
To my surprise they were P=3 I=0 D=0 . Like Kurt , I will change things up sometimes . So this tells me whatever I was doing wasn't getting up to temp .
So that being said , I use my MES 30 for sausage and hams . I generally don't do large cuts at higher temps . The settings I normally use work great for low temps of 170 or less .
I set it today to 260 and it didn't want to get there . Came out of full power at 240 . So I have some checking to do .

 

[chopsaw]

Went back to the manual and did some reading . Learned some new stuff , but I'm a bit worried , because ,,,,,
I'm starting to understand the flow charts !!

 

[zwiller]

snap disc / bi-metal strip . Resets when it cools .

Last night's run. MES powered directly. Clearly the switch... I got a baseline at least. This is all sorta funny because I want a Smokfire to run hot stuff. No room for it tho...

 

[JC in GB]

Last night's run. MES powered directly. Clearly the switch... I got a baseline at least. This is all sorta funny because I want a Smokfire to run hot stuff. No room for it tho...

View attachment 658479

This thermal cutoff switch may be what you are looking for. Cuts out at over 325 F.

https://www.grainger.com/product/6UEA1?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gclid=CjwKCAiAl9efBhAkEiwA4TorisYWpUY-7UjKtTDOFxc3nCDqA9-EZoK2baRYcc8OKWCcDbPIiJEl_RoC3PQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

JC

 

[chopsaw]

I'm sitting here and recalling what happened to mine . When it shut off on the limit years ago , it ran a long time in a loop . Messed up the sensor at high temps . It worked at low temps . I have another one here , I need to switch it out again .

Edit .
Switched and up and running . Again came out of power 20 degrees to soon , or did it ?
Hung a therm next to the senor , and it's right on set temp . Controller is displaying 20 degrees low . Gonna check the offset for temp display . Hope it shows 20 degrees . Lol .

dr k Kurt , what's your knowledge or thoughts on a factory reset on an Auber 1510 ? Does it just put the cook settings back to stock or is there some sort of calibration involved ?
Mine seems to be confused from when it ran to long without a load .

 

[JC in GB]

This thermal cutoff switch may be what you are looking for. Cuts out at over 325 F.

https://www.grainger.com/product/6UEA1?gucid=N:N:PS:Paid:GGL:CSM-2295:4P7A1P:20501231&gclid=CjwKCAiAl9efBhAkEiwA4TorisYWpUY-7UjKtTDOFxc3nCDqA9-EZoK2baRYcc8OKWCcDbPIiJEl_RoC3PQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

JC

I just checked that link and that is the wrong switch. Let me try again...

I searched in Celsius and it returned Fahrenheit products.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Thermostat-Control-Microwave-Normally/dp/B07L96FQH1

Try this one.....

JC

 

[tallbm]

I just checked that link and that is the wrong switch. Let me try again...

I searched in Celsius and it returned Fahrenheit products.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Thermostat-Control-Microwave-Normally/dp/B07L96FQH1

Try this one.....

JC

Not to be contrary or argumentative but the style of switch you linked too is not going to work... I learned this lesson the hard way in the past lol. :D

The one in the following link will work. It's 175C/347F limit.

https://www.amazon.com/Aopin-Normally-Thermostat-Temperature-Switch-Degree/dp/B09C8PP1JP/ref=sr_1_43?crid=14YTZV5TT3FLX&keywords=KSD301%2B175C%2Bceramic&qid=1677095123&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sprefix=ksd301%2B175c%2Bceramic%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-43&th=1

Notice the face and fastening collar/plate are one piece of metal.
JC in GB , the one you linked too has a 2 piece metal face and fastening collar/plate. The 2 piece style causes the button face of the switch to move in/out of the insulation and leaves a gap where smoke will get into the insulation/body of the smoker.
At a glance it's hard to notice the difference. I am scarred for life learning the hard way about the difference in the 2 styles, so I eyeball the crap out of the pictures to know which is the correct style hahaha :D

Also this one is ceramic so it may hold up longer and you get 8 pieces just in case one wears out or breaks. They can be a little delicate at times and can tear up was you try to install.


I hope this info helps :)

 

[JckDanls 07]

You can calibrate the Auber to read what you want... So if you want it to read what the remote therm is showing you just change the setting... Should have directions in the manual ...