Yepper, was thinking that myself. That said, I've run 325F a number of times and worked fine. For now, let's forget 325F... Will run a test @ 275F tonight. What I am trying fix is how long it's taking to heat up. WAAAAY longer than stock. Like 90m. Runs near perfect once but seems too long. I realize there's a trade off...Refresh my memory here. Are you running an MES with the original safety switch intact ? Your graoh sure look like it.
Yepper, was thinking that myself. That said, I've run 325F a number of times and worked fine. For now, let's forget 325F... Will run a test @ 275F tonight. What I am trying fix is how long it's taking to heat up. WAAAAY longer than stock. Like 90m. Runs near perfect once but seems too long. I realize there's a trade off...
Your chart shows things dying off around 300F.Yepper, was thinking that myself. That said, I've run 325F a number of times and worked fine. For now, let's forget 325F... Will run a test @ 275F tonight. What I am trying fix is how long it's taking to heat up. WAAAAY longer than stock. Like 90m. Runs near perfect once but seems too long. I realize there's a trade off...
THANKS. Running straight wire without the Auber would rule out element/connector issue right?Long heating times are most likely the heating element. Failing that, it could be resistance build up at the electrical connectors. You cold try a steel wool scrub on the element terminals to see if that makes any difference. If it isn't failing connections, the only thing left is the element, or the power switch. Is the Auber a relay output or silicon switch?
JC![]()
OK , here's the good . You're watching the light , so you know it's coming out of full power to soon . What do you have P set at ? . Pick a number , say 5 and leave it alone .Mine I noticed dropped to 45% power at 10-15 degrees below set.
So if you're at P=5 and it starts to blink 10 degrees to soon , lower the value of I and start again . Continue this until you get it to stay in full power 5 degrees before set temp .Pretty sure P&I could stand to be tweeked a bit.
Once you trip the limit switch you completely confuse the Controller . It keeps searching for a load that's not there . Sends it into an open loop . I had it happen when I tried to crank mine up . Had to abort the cook and let it reset itself .300F+ will be a problem with that original switch in place.
Thought that too but ran 325F a few times and no issue. Not sure what kind of switch but thought it would just die and not reset like a fuse. Let's regroup and forget the 325F stuff... Test will be straight wire to 275F tonight to rule out element/MES itself.Your chart shows things dying off around 300F.
That makes sense with the original safety switch that is 302F/150C hence that big drop in temp and build back up.
It seems that you hit 275F or so in around 15 min just guessing by the grid pic you posted.
300F+ will be a problem with that original switch in place.
Im curious with your P and your I settings how fast you hit 275F.
snap disc / bi-metal strip . Resets when it cools .. Not sure what kind of switch but thought it would just die and not reset like a fuse.
If P=0 regardless of the I and D values it's an on/off controller like the stock digital Mes or rheostat type controller. You can run P mode with P=1 or a higher number with I and D being 0. This should be in your manual. It's in mine with the WS-1510ELPM Auber with the senario of P=7, showing the path and drop % in heating, pulsing electricity going up to the set temp. This means if P = 3, I and D=0, then 3 degrees below set temp it's full power light on, then 2 degrees below set temp it's 2/3 pulsing power, then 1 degree below is 1/3 pulsing power and at set temp it's off. It may overshoot and on the way down 1 degree below set temp will pulse 1/3 power etc. to manage temp but isn't enough. I use P=1, I and D=0 a lot so one degree below set temp is full power and 1/2 degree below (even though the resolution is in one degree increments) is 50% power pulsing electricity and goes past set temp with preheating. I set the temp to 265 and may over shoot to 275 max, then reset the controller to 275 when it hits 275 I like to smoke ribs, butts and briskets at. No waiting. I can't wait for more than 30 min to get to desired temp. Also, P=1 I&D=0 means on the down coast your're pulsing 50% electricity 1/2 degree below set temp which is max pulse, then full power 1 degree below set temp to recover as you come in for a two degree cycle for a 15lb brisket. I do like changing my parameters from a P mode to PID mode once the brisket slows on sucking down heat when the chunk of meat is cold. I likeI am fumbling in the dark. Set for 325F. Tried all sorts of settings, never made it to temp and had to call it. Granted it is 40F here in Ohio... Seemed like it did warm up faster tho and curve is much better. Am I correct that if I set PID to 000 it will power up to 325F and shut off once it hits? Studying this now... https://www.controleng.com/articles/learning-pid-loop-tuning-from-an-expert/
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THANKS. Running straight wire without the Auber would rule out element/connector issue right?
No idea what it is, maybe you an extrapolate from specs? https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=14_28&products_id=702
Last night's run. MES powered directly. Clearly the switch... I got a baseline at least. This is all sorta funny because I want a Smokfire to run hot stuff. No room for it tho...snap disc / bi-metal strip . Resets when it cools .
Last night's run. MES powered directly. Clearly the switch... I got a baseline at least. This is all sorta funny because I want a Smokfire to run hot stuff. No room for it tho...
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This thermal cutoff switch may be what you are looking for. Cuts out at over 325 F.
JC![]()
Not to be contrary or argumentative but the style of switch you linked too is not going to work... I learned this lesson the hard way in the past lol. :DI just checked that link and that is the wrong switch. Let me try again...
I searched in Celsius and it returned Fahrenheit products.![]()
Try this one.....
JC![]()