MES40 PID wiring questions

  • Some of the links on this forum allow SMF, at no cost to you, to earn a small commission when you click through and make a purchase. Let me know if you have any questions about this.
SMF is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

mtodriscoll

Newbie
Original poster
Sep 2, 2015
27
15
Barboursville, VA
I read through this post on how to Rewire and MES for the Auber PID controller: https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/media/openedpannel-png.547735/
But it’s pictures do not match what I am finding with me MES… see attached images of what I’ve found. The one with the black post is the power cable coming into the unit. The one with the black box with holes is adjacent and receives power. The black box has special Y-shaped screws that a Phillips head will not fit into. Any ideas? Was expecting an easy rewire job and found all this nonsense.
IMG_2107.jpeg

IMG_2108.jpeg

Root cause of why I went with a PID option was that my unit’s user interface does not power up and the buttons are non-responsive. So I cannot use the smoker.
 
I read through this post on how to Rewire and MES for the Auber PID controller: https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/media/openedpannel-png.547735/
But it’s pictures do not match what I am finding with me MES… see attached images of what I’ve found. The one with the black post is the power cable coming into the unit. The one with the black box with holes is adjacent and receives power. The black box has special Y-shaped screws that a Phillips head will not fit into. Any ideas? Was expecting an easy rewire job and found all this nonsense.
View attachment 684037
View attachment 684038
Root cause of why I went with a PID option was that my unit’s user interface does not power up and the buttons are non-responsive. So I cannot use the smoker.
I was able to get the box’s lid off which exposed the controller board. Pulled that out and now it’s looking a little closer to the pictures in the tutorial… a little.
IMG_2109.jpeg
 
That might be the one that you just redo the harness plugs . Hang tight . Someone that knows for sure will be by .
 
I used a multimeter and figured it out. Had to pop the covers off the limit switch and the heating element compartments on the back, and then check continuity to figure out which braided red wire was limit switch/element hot and which was element neutral. Once I figured that out, I followed the wiring directions in the original post...

Once completed, I plugged the MES directly into the wall outlet and it started heating up the element, so I think I am good to go. Now I just need to figure out the step programming for the Auber! I am sure there is a post in here somewhere for that info though. :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: chopsaw
I used a multimeter and figured it out. Had to pop the covers off the limit switch and the heating element compartments on the back, and then check continuity to figure out which braided red wire was limit switch/element hot and which was element neutral. Once I figured that out, I followed the wiring directions in the original post...

Once completed, I plugged the MES directly into the wall outlet and it started heating up the element, so I think I am good to go. Now I just need to figure out the step programming for the Auber! I am sure there is a post in here somewhere for that info though. :)
Hi Matt,

I have the same configuration. How did you end up connecting the wires? Thanks.

Ken
 

Attachments

  • 20231231_113103.jpg
    20231231_113103.jpg
    140.1 KB · Views: 33
Also, please help me wrap my head around this.

1. Since it's AC voltage why does it matter where the hot and neutral wires go, and
2. Why not connect the hot and neutral directly to the harness going to the limit swich/element and heating element, then just cut (shorten) and heatshrink the ends of the wires going from the circuit board to the harness?

Ken
 
Reversal of hot and neutral does not matter.
In effect hooking direct to the element and safety wiring is exactly what you are doing.
Some models become easier to do if you can find the proper connections. Look closely for 2 connectors often buried/hidden in the channel between the panels on the bottom. One panel being where the power cord enters and the other that houses the controp board. One set of connectors should have a black and a white wire on both sides. The other will have 2 wires same color with a woven clothlike jacket, on both sides. If you can find these, just unplug them and cross plug them back together ( black/white to woven/woven) and you are good to go. So far everyone who has done this, was fortunate enough to have the gender of the plastic connectors conducive to doing this.
 
Reversal of hot and neutral does not matter.
In effect hooking direct to the element and safety wiring is exactly what you are doing.
Some models become easier to do if you can find the proper connections. Look closely for 2 connectors often buried/hidden in the channel between the panels on the bottom. One panel being where the power cord enters and the other that houses the controp board. One set of connectors should have a black and a white wire on both sides. The other will have 2 wires same color with a woven clothlike jacket, on both sides. If you can find these, just unplug them and cross plug them back together ( black/white to woven/woven) and you are good to go. So far everyone who has done this, was fortunate enough to have the gender of the plastic connectors conducive to doing this.
Thank you mosparky. I feel very fortunate to have found this forum...lots of great info and lots of members willing to help out us newbies.
 
I reviewed the pics in the first post. Connect the Black/white connector coming from the powercord shown in the first pic to the red/red shown in the second pic (the end not leading to the black box) and you'll be right as rain.
 
SmokingMeatForums.com is reader supported and as an Amazon Associate, we may earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
Clicky