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SAUSAGE CURING CABINET BUILD - JC in GB PART ONE

JC in GB

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I did a leak test on my chiller system last night and it failed.

The leaks were at the chiller block (blue aluminum block in above pics) on the thermoelectric cooler module. The hose seemed to fit the hose barbs well but water pushed past no matter how tight I had the hose clamps.

I am thinking of putting a few layers of heat shrink tubing over the water intake to the block behind the hose barbs.

Any suggestions on how to stop this leaking would be appreciated.

JC :emoji_cat:
 

Murray

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If you can find a slightly smaller internal diameter tubing, usually means a difference manufacturer then what you have. Quite often a hardware store will let you cut 4” off their roll or bring your chiller block with you. I’m thinking you are looking for a tube that is close but won’t fit on dry. Heat the end of the tube in just boiled water and install while the tubing is hot, I’ve used soap as a lube but it always gets on your hands and everything is slippery, so much so that you can’t get a good enough grip to slide the tube on. Maybe if your careful. If you use the hot water method be warned that you will have to cut if off once the tube has cooled. I tried a heat gun once, too much heat and started to melt, what a mess. Hairdryer works but the hot water works better, the water gives you some lubrication.
 

indaswamp

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Double clamp the hoses.

What kind of pressure are we dealing with here? If over 40psi you may need to swage shark the hoses on. That is the tool used to install PEX piping. The clamps should hold.
 

JC in GB

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I have analyzed the water leak failure and found that the root cause was that the tube behind the hose barb was smaller in length than the width of my hose clamp. This caused uneven clamping and thus leakage. The system pressure is fairly low so I was surprised there was any leakage at all. Rookie mistake I guess. :emoji_laughing:

I am going to apply some silicon RTV behind the hose barb and refit the hose. Once it is cured, I will secure it with a nylon zip tie. I am confident that will fix the water leak.

I am getting increasingly anxious to get this cabinet done. I though I would be done by now. I won't take any shortcuts so it gets done when it gets done. <----(That's a tautology right there...) :emoji_laughing::emoji_laughing::emoji_laughing:

Tonight I will be installing the purge valves and purge fan and if I have time, the thermocouple and humidity sensor mounting bar.

JC :emoji_cat:
 

indaswamp

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I would cinch those zip ties down with needle nose pliers JC....grab the end of the tie down close to the zipper and roll the tie against the zipper to apply force and cinch that sucker down tight!
 

JckDanls 07

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I use a pair of channel locks (with curved jaw)... grab hold as close as you can to the zipper... take a flat head screwdriver and stick end in between channel locks and rest end on the zipper... now roll the channel locks on the screwdriver... this pulls on tag end of ziptie while pushing down on zipper at same time...
 

JC in GB

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I have gone to plan B for sealing the cooling block. I added RTV behind the hose barb. If that doesn't do it, I am going to re-fit the whole thing with neoprene or some other softer tubing.

I should be done by Saturday so I can test the cabinet all day Sunday.

This is what I completed yesterday.

1) Purge fan and purge valves mounted and sealed
2) Sensor bar mounted and drilled
3) Plan B to seal cooling block leak (RTV)
4) Used steel wool to rub away rust spots and sealed holes left by shelf mounts
5) sealed other holes in cabinet

Left to be done

1) Install circulation fan
2) Install sensors
3) Re-Install cooling system
4) Install air intake filters
5) polish and drill meat bars and install hooks
6) Program controllers
7) Cut clearance slot in door shelf and install door
8) Clean and sanitize cabinet
9) Run operational tests
10) Make some sausage

JC :emoji_cat:
 

JC in GB

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Getting closer to being operational.

Purge vent, meat bar with hooks, circulation fan, sensor mount

20210115_170635~3.jpg


Purge intake, humidifier, and heater.

20210115_170652.jpg
 

indaswamp

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I would also recommend inoculating the cabinet with mold 600 after sanitizing and prior to hanging product to drying in the chamber. Mold will get established in the high humidity environment, might as well have it be good mold or you will be fighting bad mold issues.
 

SmokinEdge

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I would also recommend inoculating the cabinet with mold 600 after sanitizing and prior to hanging product to drying in the chamber. Mold will get established in the high humidity environment, might as well have it be good mold or you will be fighting bad mold issues.
True, that. Start the good mold, it will fight the bad.
 

indaswamp

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SmokinEdge, I have gotten in the habit of spraying any remaining mold600 inoculation water into and on the walls of my chamber once I brush the salamis....just for insurance....instead of just dumping it down the drain.
 

Fueling Around

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Sorry JC Been following your thread, but not often enough to see your latest obstacle.
If you use zip (cable) ties they make tools to pull them tight and cut the tail. Mine was around $15 a few years ago.
I would also recommend inoculating the cabinet with mold 600 after sanitizing and prior to hanging product to drying in the chamber. Mold will get established in the high humidity environment, might as well have it be good mold or you will be fighting bad mold issues.
Do you need to sterilize a virgin cabinet before inoculating?
 

JC in GB

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Cabinet is now fully functional. I also received my fermented sausage making supplies today.

Tested chiller unit to 50 F. 10 C

Had to to a not of a hack job on the chiller control. I made a mistake on the gate drive circuit so I had to use another driver. Will correct the low side driver Monday.

Ink bird humidity controller works great.

Purge valve works like a wonder...

20210116_124026.jpg


20210116_104609.jpg
 

indaswamp

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Is the water in a closed loop system? Is that the reservoir container there in the back? Any idea how much energy you are using for the cooling system? How efficient is it?
 

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