PID Controller Tutorial and Build Information

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When I click on the link for the aluminum enclosure it's very reasonable at 14.87 but the 47.26 shipping is over triple the cost of the enclosure.
What forms of payment do they accept??

I have a limited quantity of enclosures available for $30 + shipping. I ordered some for my own projects but the min order was more than I could use.

The enclosures have cut out for:

PID controller
AC Power switch
2 - Cable glans holes
1 - DC jack hole
1 - AC outlet hole

Drilled holes in the bottom of the enclosure.
You will have to drill you own holes to mount your SSR module.


Shipping from China costs $$$$ That is why enclosure is $14 and shipping is $50

JC :emoji_cat:
Enclosure mfg dwg_JPEG.jpg
 
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REX C-100 enclosures.

I have a number of enclosures available for REX C-100 controllers. If forum members are interested I would be willing to sell what I have on hand.

These boxes have the following cut outs.

REX C-100 PID controller
AC power switch
2 - holes for cable glans joints
AC power outlet
DC jack

I ordered them from the mfg and they required a min quantity that I will likely never use up on my own.

I am selling them for $30 each plus shipping if anyone is interested.

JC :emoji_cat:
Enclosure mfg dwg_JPEG.jpg
 

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JC.. Pictures aren't showing up for me...

I went back through and they are showing up in the thread. I'm not sure why you aren't seeing them. Just figured it out. DOH!!! I uploaded a PDF file. You have to download it. It won't just show up. :emoji_face_palm:

JC :emoji_cat:
 
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Just showing as an attachment and wants me to download..

Yes. It is a pdf file of the mechanical drawing. I will upload some case pics.

Case style 1:

I only have 2 of these left.

Fits this style controller:


Rear, front, and inside view of case.

20200618_080714.jpg

MES_kit 04.jpg


MES_kit 01.jpg




Case style 2:

For REX C-100 style PID controller. I have many of these.

Black Cat 2 front.jpg
Black Cat 2 rear.jpg
 
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I've been kicking around the idea of using a pid controller for the ferment/drying chamber project when I revisit that. Maybe I'll take you up on an enclosure or two.
 
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Older post but just read it. Very nice write up. I've seen a lot of people use various types of plug-ins and connectors for their thermocouples. Most people don't think twice about it. That's one of the main reasons I always recommend using a 3 wire RTD for temp feed back. That way they don't introduce accuracy issues. Not all of the cheaper PIDs support them but most do. If you get a decent one it's going to be a lot more reliable and accurate than a cheap K type. Auber has a good variety of RTD sensors, some with high temp lead wires.
Another reason for using an RTD sensor is the cold joint compensation circuit in the PID that is used for thermocouples is susceptible to ambient temperature changes, some worse than others.
 
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Older post but just read it. Very nice write up. I've seen a lot of people use various types of plug-ins and connectors for their thermocouples. Most people don't think twice about it. That's one of the main reasons I always recommend using a 3 wire RTD for temp feed back. That way they don't introduce accuracy issues. Not all of the cheaper PIDs support them but most do. If you get a decent one it's going to be a lot more reliable and accurate than a cheap K type. Auber has a good variety of RTD sensors, some with high temp lead wires.
Another reason for using an RTD sensor is the cold joint compensation circuit in the PID that is used for thermocouples is susceptible to ambient temperature changes, some worse than others.

A very good point. Dissimilar metals in the thermocouple loop introduce errors. I wire my k-type thermocouples right to the controller terminals. I have never had any issues using these type of thermocouples in this configuration.

I have used RTD sensors on my controllers as well and really didn't notice any improvement in performance. The feedback was faster but my smoker has such a long thermal time constant that it made no difference in the overall control performance.

In this tutorial, I wanted to apply Occam's razor as much as possible. There are numerous variations that could be contrived from this basic design.

I also noticed on of my posts above that I identified the white wire in a US power cord as HOT. That is incorrect. White is Neutral. Black is HOT. Sorry for any confusion.

Thanks for the feedback.

JC :emoji_cat:
 
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