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Stick burner help

Discussion in 'Wood Smokers' started by Tfrank778, Jan 22, 2019.

  1. Tfrank778

    Tfrank778 Fire Starter

    Last Summer I had purchased one of the original Oklahoma Joe's that was made in Perry Oklahoma. It 1/4" and the welds on it are impeccable. The smoker itself is in great shape and has no rust what so ever. One thing that I am having problems with is the heat distribution across the grate. I have a baffle plate installed and the temperature difference was over 100 degrees from side to side. Tried lowering the exhaust with aluminum duct and the same result. When the smoker is ran without the baffle plate the temperature on the firebox because over 300 no matter how small the fire.

    I'm running out of things to try and was wondering what your inputs would be on how to fix this? I'm almost at my wits end and want to sell it, but I don't want to downgrade if I do. Any help is much appreciated.

    Also on the pictures excuse me for how dirty it is... It hasn't had its spring cleaning yet...[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  2. old sarge

    old sarge Master of the Pit OTBS Member ★ Lifetime Premier ★

    My old Brinkmann, while not as robust as your, always got the job done. Took some tending though. Ir was always hotter at the firebox end. So, I would rotate the meat every so often and try to keep a small but hot "fire" going. I kept the temp between 275 and 300 and checked often. Did that for years. Always has mighty fine results. When I turned 62, I went electric. Call it lazy or whatever. Still enjoy the food. But seriously, cooking with fire will always take a fair amount of tending or babysitting. I reckon pellet smokers/grills are the closest to traditional wood fired smoking without all the work.
     
  3. Tfrank778

    Tfrank778 Fire Starter

    I’ve gone from electric to pellet to charcoal to this. I am going to continue to use stick burning and never turn back. I just can’t figure out how to even up the temps. 100-135 degrees is just not acceptable
     
  4. bluewhisper

    bluewhisper Master of the Pit OTBS Member

    I put a baffle in my offset (see sig) and it helps to even out the heat.
     
  5. SmokinAl

    SmokinAl SMF Hall of Fame Pitmaster Staff Member Moderator OTBS Member ★ Lifetime Premier ★

    That seems insane to have a fluctuation like that especially with the baffle & the stack extension. I'm sure you did this, and I'm not trying to insult your intelligence, but did you put a therm at each end of the smoker & did you check both of them in boiling water & ice water to make sure they are accurate? I put a pan of water on the grate next to the firebox on my Lang & it keeps the temps even across the grate.
     
  6. Tfrank778

    Tfrank778 Fire Starter

    Yes I have my two probes on my fire board at each end of the smoker. They read pretty dead on in boiling water and ice. It’s almost like the pit doesn’t draw enough air and all the heat just stays on the firebox side.
     
  7. daveomak

    daveomak Epic Pitmaster OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    Tfrank, morning.... If you are up to doing some re configuring on that awesome built smoker, here's what I would do...
    First I would reposition the tuning plate so it is at the top of the FB opening... The way it is situated now it is holding the heat in the FB and not allowing for a free air flow... You will need to have 2 straps welded to the side of the Cook Chamber, at FB opening height and wide enough, to support the diffuser plate...
    Second I would shorten the exhaust stack extension... The food grate is blocking the air flow... Cut it off so it is approx 3" above the food grate..
    Third, I can't see the FB door area, but I recommend an upper and lower air inlet... The lower, allows air to the fire to adjust the FB heat.... The upper allows for the heat in the FB to be moved to the CC WITHOUT adding air to the fire.... many members have used this combination with some very good success......

    ....The deflector plate is blocking air flow...
    deflector plate 2.jpg deflector plate b 2.jpg

    ... an image of the proper position of the tuning plates....
    TUNING PLATE 3.jpg

    exhaust extension 2.jpg

    Smoker Exh and Intakes 2.jpg
     

    Attached Files:

    wimpy69 likes this.
  8. Tfrank778

    Tfrank778 Fire Starter

    So should I try to use hard duct to move the exhaust?

    Also the intake is a standard pin wheel damper.
     
  9. daveomak

    daveomak Epic Pitmaster OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    Plug off the top half of the damper or change it... It's important for it to only feed the fire...
    Put a 90deg. dryer elbow in the existing exhaust.... If need be, cut it short of the food grate.....
     
  10. Tfrank778

    Tfrank778 Fire Starter

    If I plug the top vent wouldn’t I need to increase bottom pin wheel to make up for the loss of airflow?
     
  11. daveomak

    daveomak Epic Pitmaster OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    Did you calculate how big the air inlets have to be ?? 0.004 X Cook Chamber volume in cu. in...
     
  12. daveomak

    daveomak Epic Pitmaster OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    Take a picture of the FB end... where the door and pie vent is located....
     
  13. Tfrank778

    Tfrank778 Fire Starter

    5AFC1080-0F57-4CDE-917A-49B15A405878.jpeg
    Here’s a pic of the vents
     
  14. daveomak

    daveomak Epic Pitmaster OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

  15. Tfrank778

    Tfrank778 Fire Starter

  16. daveomak

    daveomak Epic Pitmaster OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    Pick your poison.... Start with the deflector and plate realighment... above the FB/CC opening...
    If you have the skills and tools, I would opt for the lower and upper air inlets... The pie vent modification was a very good option, but not the best fix....
    Oh !!! The elbow on the exhaust is a definite must-do...
     
  17. Tfrank778

    Tfrank778 Fire Starter

    So I had an idea what if I basically made a design where it was half of the butterfly that’s in there now. Attach one to the firebox on the inside and the outside. For the fire and one for air intake. Tighten the original bolt down enough to hold either one open and be independent of each other.

    Thoughts? DBE62C89-1B58-40D1-8BF4-57C490FFE702.jpeg
     
  18. daveomak

    daveomak Epic Pitmaster OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    That should help... Also, the deflector plate, it is important to remove it... It is blocking air flow.... When you get the other ideas into play, it will all come together.....
     
  19. Tfrank778

    Tfrank778 Fire Starter

    5170DE71-0F9E-4492-99FA-A710A73E10BC.jpeg 154F783E-FBAC-4E07-9131-AB335B7B3A8F.jpeg A0D50F6E-7228-43F3-82EA-E340015C0647.jpeg

    So I I made some adjustments and will try it out tomorrow. I made the two separate dampers and made my own tuning plates out of some flat bar 3/16”. Fingers crossed and thanks for the help!!
     
  20. daveomak

    daveomak Epic Pitmaster OTBS Member SMF Premier Member

    Cool... The results will be interesting....