MES Rewire Simple Guide - No Back Removal Needed!!!

[dr k]

I think I understand better your recommendation for a PID controller.
With my new Amazon replacement knock off of MES digital controller. I placed a meat probe on the rack near the MES temp sensor, just above the water pan. I set the dig. controller temp at 200F. It went off at 220, on at 198F displayed. Temp on the meat rack ranged from 265F (off) to 224F (on). Vent temp outlet ranged from 185 to 160F.
I'm thinking the meat rack temp is the most important. What temp range control does PID typically offer by comparison? Thanks/dave_a

Yours is still an on/off controller without using algorithms at a specific settings so a PID will come out of full power below set temp as you see the light flash, cutting power on and off to the element as it comes in for a landing at set temp. I have my PID sensor down the top right side vent Gen 1 Mes 40 hanging 2"-3" off the right side wall on the second from the top rack of the four. It's my go to rack for meat. Bottom rack has a rectangle aluminum disposable baking sheet pan as a drip pan and the heat rises around the four sides of it. I also flipped the exposed element for more even heating and keeping drips off of it. The PID keeps the temp within a couple degrees where your food is vs a random spot on the back wall where your food usually isn't with the stock sensor. The heat around the element is the hottest and then rises so the bottom rack has radiant and ambient heat for a very hot rack I don't cook on so the drip pan goes there, then as heat rises ambient heat stacks at the top like a water heater as it works it's way out.and you can see the convection with the smoke cascading down the doors with windows around the food and back up. Top rack I use to manage therm cables, food in dishes I have two pit probes hanging from top rack on either side of the food 2-3" away. I have a probe laying on the top rack bur off the rack with a spring clothes pin between the middle of the rack and vent ( being the hottest ambient temp) with it set to a range alarm 145-290 for safety. So three pit therms on the left right of the food about the same temp especially after a few cycles the smoker goes though. These four total probes are unplugged and left in there position after each smoke. With multi rack smokes you can hang the probes between racks etc. With the PID I set it to get to temp quickly with a little five degree over shoot at 265-275 for brisket, ribs and butts but in two cycles it's holding within a few degrees and every cycle gets tighter till a couple degrees of the set temp. I use the mailbox mod with an Amazen pellet tray since it's a self sufficient smoke generator with consistent results every time. The element won't stay on long enough to burn chips when it hits set temp so you need a different smoke generator vs the stock.

 

[dave_a]

Maybe dumb questions:
1. Your 4 PID probes are monitoring box temps, right? Are the all set to the same temp?
2. How do you monitor meat for doneness/internal temp? Can the PID do that too - while controlling box heat simultaneously?

 

[mesnewb]

I'm catching up on this thread. I saw references to the controller on Amazon, but when I click the link I don't seem to get the actual item. Could someone share the actual link to it? thanks.

 

[dave_a]

I'm catching up on this thread. I saw references to the controller on Amazon, but when I click the link I don't seem to get the actual item. Could someone share the actual link to it? thanks.

I'm catching up on this thread. I saw references to the controller on Amazon, but when I click the link I don't seem to get the actual item. Could someone share the actual link to it? thanks.

Search Amazon for "masterbuilt digital controller ". You'll need your MES model#. But it's more of an "out of controller ".

 

[dr k]

Maybe dumb questions:
1. Your 4 PID probes are monitoring box temps, right? Are the all set to the same temp?
2. How do you monitor meat for doneness/internal temp? Can the PID do that too - while controlling box heat simultaneously?

I have one water proof multi use sensor for the pit for the WS_1510ELPM Auber PID that can be for smokers or sous vide. The other three are in a multi probe digital thermometer to compare temps with the PID sensor and the top rack probe is set to a range alert 145-290. I do use a meat probe in the digital thermometer as well since I have a four probe and six probe digital thermometers. Set them to a custom alert temp or select a stock temp based on the meat type and doneeness you want. I just enter my own temp for each probe for an alert (just the meat and the pit range) the others aren't set to an alert just displays the temp but you can set all to a high temp food alert or a pit range alert. You can get a multi probe PID that has the pit sensor and one or two for meat with WiFi that will significantly increase the price of the PID. I like an independent 4+ probe digital thermometer. I have the rechargeable four probe Inkbird IRF-4S 1,500' remote frequency therm that has a water resistance rating like cell phones have from Amazon. It was a great deal with the promo, additional coupon and discover card cash back bonus.

 

[mosparky]

This where I fell into the "For a few Dollars More" trap. Some of the more expensive ones can have 2 probes. Some are multi-step programable.
I finally bit the bullet for the wifi model (not cheap) largely due the phone app making it far easier to program. It is multi-step programable and it will take 2 probes and can be programed to shut- off or reduce heat when the meat probe reaches desired temp.

 

[Axle]

This where I fell into the "For a few Dollars More" trap. Some of the more expensive ones can have 2 probes. Some are multi-step programable.
I finally bit the bullet for the wifi model (not cheap) largely due the phone app making it far easier to program. It is multi-step programable and it will take 2 probes and can be programed to shut- off or reduce heat when the meat probe reaches desired temp.

Hey new guy here...I have been following this thread because I'm looking into setting up an electric smoker that works well...without spending a whole bunch of money (if that is possible lol). Do you happen to know the model number of the controller you bought?

 

[mosparky]

I got the AW-1520H.

Here is a link to a selection/feature chart on Aubers site https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=43

 

[Cotosoti]

Just dropping in the thank everyone for their contribution to this thread. I have the dreaded Gen 2 with the slanted metal shelf above the element. I was able to rewire the MES, swapped the 800w element for 1200w, and I added the Auber AW-1520H.

The Auber, without any adjustments, kept a temperature test run to within +/- 1 degree of 225F for 3 hrs and another test run of 265F for 3 hrs.

 

[Winterrider]

Just dropping in the thank everyone for their contribution to this thread. I have the dreaded Gen 2 with the slanted metal shelf above the element. I was able to rewire the MES, swapped the 800w element for 1200w, and I added the Auber AW-1520H.

The Auber, without any adjustments, kept a temperature test run to within +/- 1 degree of 225F for 3 hrs and another test run of 265F for 3 hrs.

Good to hear. That will be a great smoker now. I gutted mine out completely. Just the heating element with small cover plate that I foil for easy cleanup.

 

[tallbm]

Just dropping in the thank everyone for their contribution to this thread. I have the dreaded Gen 2 with the slanted metal shelf above the element. I was able to rewire the MES, swapped the 800w element for 1200w, and I added the Auber AW-1520H.

The Auber, without any adjustments, kept a temperature test run to within +/- 1 degree of 225F for 3 hrs and another test run of 265F for 3 hrs.

Hi there, welcome, and congrats!

Glad you have it rocking along :D

 

[Doc Drone]

Thanks for the very detailed directions! My MES gets to about 220 and then just shuts down. If I go directly to the heating element it continues to heat. unplugged at 278 but it was still climbing. Thinking about a PID and running directly to the element. any PID that you think is better? Appreciate your input. thanks Doc

 

[cmayna]

Doc,
I directly connected a power cord to the element of my MES40 and plug it into my Auber WS_1510ELPM PID controller. Never looked back.

 

[chopsaw]

Thanks for the very detailed directions! My MES gets to about 220 and then just shuts down. If I go directly to the heating element it continues to heat. unplugged

You might have a bad limit switch . Tripping at a low temp , or your read out is wrong and the temp in the smoker is higher than you think . Causing the switch to trip for safety reasons .

Thinking about a PID and running directly to the element. any PID that you think is better?

A lot of us use the Auber 1510 ELPM .

 

[tallbm]

Thanks for the very detailed directions! My MES gets to about 220 and then just shuts down. If I go directly to the heating element it continues to heat. unplugged at 278 but it was still climbing. Thinking about a PID and running directly to the element. any PID that you think is better? Appreciate your input. thanks Doc

Hi there and welcome!
With what you explain I would bet money that your safety limit temp switch is why it is dying at 220F.
My guess is the connections are corroded, rusted, or loose and that is causing resistance making that switch get really hot (way hotter than the smoker is getting). If the switch heats up like that then it will shut off power to the element thinking it is the smoker that is getting hot.

What you are thinking with the direct cord and a PID will work no problem, just remember that you no longer have a safety switch in the mix.
If you run a few of probes from a wireless digital thermometer and are measuring the smoker temp with one of them, then you will know if your smoker is getting to hot or not. My Inkbird (4 probe one) has a high/low temp alarm I set in case my smoker gets too hot from a pellet flame over or something else. So I'm good to go if anything crazy happens in my MES whether the safety switch catches it or not :D

I hope this info helps!

 

[tpc74]

Could that control board be any more simple? Lol

 

[DStrick]

Great! I've got this thread saved. You sure saved us a lot of time on an Ohm meter finding continuity at each ends of the wires. :points:
-Kurt

Good Evening, I have finally received my PDI controller. I took off the back panels and my smoker is not wired as you shared in the diagram. However, there is a small circuit board on the back of my existing digital dial. Also, my smoker is the Masterbuilt sportsman elite. The second image was from the bottom. Appreciate any help that you can give me.
Thanks, Denny Strickland

 

[normanaj]

Good Evening, I have finally received my PDI controller. I took off the back panels and my smoker is not wired as you shared in the diagram. However, there is a small circuit board on the back of my existing digital dial. Also, my smoker is the Masterbuilt sportsman elite. The second image was from the bottom. Appreciate any help that you can give me.
Thanks, Denny Strickland
View attachment 692757
View attachment 692758

Yours is like mine.All you need to do is unplug one harness plug into the other and done.

I'm going to search out the thread where I did mine and post the link here.

Auber WS-1211H SCORE!!!

Norm , you in the bottom or the back ? That looks like the back . You need to be in the bottom . That's the lower panel on the back.When it stops raining I'll have to take a look at the bottom. Was able to take a couple quick pics of the bottom between rain drops.Looks like this may have to...

www.smokingmeatforums.com

Specifically post #26.

tallbm can be of great help I'm sure he'll chime in shortly.

 

[tallbm]

Good Evening, I have finally received my PDI controller. I took off the back panels and my smoker is not wired as you shared in the diagram. However, there is a small circuit board on the back of my existing digital dial. Also, my smoker is the Masterbuilt sportsman elite. The second image was from the bottom. Appreciate any help that you can give me.
Thanks, Denny Strickland
View attachment 692757
View attachment 692758

Hi Denny!

Your rewire job is super simple, you lucked out. You basically just have to connect the white clips I circled in the image below.

The bottom clip has the smooth WHITE and smooth BLACK wire, that comes from your plug.
You disconnect that clip and take that end with the black and white wire and connect it with the compatible end in the top circle (will have matching end with red braided wires).

To confirm it is all good to go you just plug in your MES and the heating element should heat up. Try this on a regular outlet to eliminate any finnicky GFCI outlet behavior.
IMPORTANT!!!!! Do not leave this plugged in beyond confirming it is heating up. The rewired smoker is now dumb and will just heat up until it burns down if you leave it plugged in so don't walk away leaving it plugged in.

After you confirm it is heating up you now just hook the MES plug to the PID.
Drop the PID temp probe down the vent and hook under the bottom rack of the smoker.
Plug in the PID and enter the set temp and watch it go!

(For clarity, your lower circuit board is in that plastic black box where I circled the plug ends. A tiny flathead can remove those funky tri-slot screws they used to fasten the lid to that plastic box. You won't need to get in there since you lucked out with the clips meaning you don't need to do any wire cutting and splicing!!! )

 

[DStrick]

Hi Denny!

Your rewire job is super simple, you lucked out. You basically just have to connect the white clips I circled in the image below.

The bottom clip has the smooth WHITE and smooth BLACK wire, that comes from your plug.
You disconnect that clip and take that end with the black and white wire and connect it with the compatible end in the top circle (will have matching end with red braided wires).

To confirm it is all good to go you just plug in your MES and the heating element should heat up. Try this on a regular outlet to eliminate any finnicky GFCI outlet behavior.
IMPORTANT!!!!! Do not leave this plugged in beyond confirming it is heating up. The rewired smoker is now dumb and will just heat up until it burns down if you leave it plugged in so don't walk away leaving it plugged in.

After you confirm it is heating up you now just hook the MES plug to the PID.
Drop the PID temp probe down the vent and hook under the bottom rack of the smoker.
Plug in the PID and enter the set temp and watch it go!

View attachment 692759

(For clarity, your lower circuit board is in that plastic black box where I circled the plug ends. A tiny flathead can remove those funky tri-slot screws they used to fasten the lid to that plastic box. You won't need to get in there since you lucked out with the clips meaning you don't need to do any wire cutting and splicing!!! )

I appreciate this group and how helpful everyone has been. You all have provided me great advice and assitance. I performed the simple switching of the connectors and she is heating right up with my new PID controller. Appreciate it, looking like Easter ham is back in the smoker. Cant thank you all enough!