MES Rewire Simple Guide - No Back Removal Needed!!!

[Buttinator]

So, after doing the rewire and it working OK last time I did a smoke, this morning I tried to fire it all up and it kept tripping the outlet breaker. The Auber alone worked fine, but as soon as I plug in the Masterbuilt, the breaker pops. Man I hate this company. Anyway, before I throw it off a cliff, any ideas on what could be causing this, since it is essentially a slave box with a heating element now?

Me and my pork butts cooking in the oven await a fix.

Edit: Well this answers a lot. As you can probably tell, I'd replaced the original clips. Maybe leave it open when smoking and run a fan on it.

After replacing the connector, the unit trips the breaker after about a minute.

 

[tallbm]

So, after doing the rewire and it working OK last time I did a smoke, this morning I tried to fire it all up and it kept tripping the outlet breaker. The Auber alone worked fine, but as soon as I plug in the Masterbuilt, the breaker pops. Man I hate this company. Anyway, before I throw it off a cliff, any ideas on what could be causing this, since it is essentially a slave box with a heating element now?

Me and my pork butts cooking in the oven await a fix.

Edit: Well this answers a lot. As you can probably tell, I'd replaced the original clips. Maybe leave it open when smoking and run a fan on it.

After replacing the connector, the unit trips the breaker after about a minute.

View attachment 667348

Im glad you found this burned up piece and fixed the connector.
Sounds like your GFCI outlet is tripping because it doesn't like the current being pulled.

If you can try a non GFCI outlet (like through a window indoors) see if that keeps the breaker from tripping. This is what I have to do these days. Let me know if this works. It will tell us a few things and possibly keep you going.

 

[Buttinator]

Im glad you found this burned up piece and fixed the connector.
Sounds like your GFCI outlet is tripping because it doesn't like the current being pulled.

If you can try a non GFCI outlet (like through a window indoors) see if that keeps the breaker from tripping. This is what I have to do these days. Let me know if this works. It will tell us a few things and possibly keep you going.

The problem is, that connector I replaced had melted after a single smoke. It's a fire hazard, although it just sits on my cement patio. I'm ready to just chuck it and buy a Trager or a Weber pellet. I truly hate Masterbuilt and I will tell everyone I know for the rest of time what a PoS company it is. How can they continue to stay in business?

 

[tallbm]

The problem is, that connector I replaced had melted after a single smoke. It's a fire hazard, although it just sits on my cement patio. I'm ready to just chuck it and buy a Trager or a Weber pellet. I truly hate Masterbuilt and I will tell everyone I know for the rest of time what a PoS company it is. How can they continue to stay in business?

I understand the frustration.

The electrical connectors and the safety limit switch that masterbuilt uses are trash. Here are ones that are hi temp and made to hold up better:

https://www.amazon.com/Supco-T1111-Disconnect-Temperature-Female/dp/B0071NC5NO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=SE1REHIJ8EEW&keywords=supco+t111&qid=1686358958&sprefix=supco+t111%2Caps%2C550&sr=8-1

The best part of the MES is it's physical construction. It's weak point is the electronics and electrical components.
So the best MES you could ever have is a free one or a cheap used one that gets rewired, connectors replaced with hi temp ones, and then has a PID controller slapped on it!

Can't buy a better smoker at that unless spending $1,000+.

Any chance you do any regular soldering?
Those connectors melt when there is a bit of looseness which causes resistance which causes heat and melt down. Soldering will solve all of that. So will a good connector that wont expand on easly when it heats due to being connected to the heating element :D

 

[Buttinator]

I understand the frustration.

The electrical connectors and the safety limit switch that masterbuilt uses are trash. Here are ones that are hi temp and made to hold up better:

https://www.amazon.com/Supco-T1111-Disconnect-Temperature-Female/dp/B0071NC5NO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=SE1REHIJ8EEW&keywords=supco+t111&qid=1686358958&sprefix=supco+t111%2Caps%2C550&sr=8-1

The best part of the MES is it's physical construction. It's weak point is the electronics and electrical components.
So the best MES you could ever have is a free one or a cheap used one that gets rewired, connectors replaced with hi temp ones, and then has a PID controller slapped on it!

Can't buy a better smoker at that unless spending $1,000+.

Any chance you do any regular soldering?
Those connectors melt when there is a bit of looseness which causes resistance which causes heat and melt down. Soldering will solve all of that. So will a good connector that wont expand on easly when it heats due to being connected to the heating element :D

Thanks I'll check out those connectors for the next China Syndrome. These are the ones I got that melted: Ace Female Disconnect.

I didn't solder them, but I did dremel the spade with a brush bit for better connectivity and less resistance.

I need to get a higher rated extension cord to reach a non-GFCI outlet. Even the outlet at my pool cleaner pump has GFCI.

Is the safety limit switch basically a binary fail point that makes the heating elements not receive power (even with the direct wire bypass of the internal controller)? I have a panel so that's an easy fix.

Still, I'm looking at some Weber and Camp Chef pellet smokers. So I'll probably have a nice slightly-used Auber WiFi controller for sale soon!

 

[tallbm]

Thanks I'll check out those connectors for the next China Syndrome. These are the ones I got that melted: Ace Female Disconnect.

I didn't solder them, but I did dremel the spade with a brush bit for better connectivity and less resistance.

I need to get a higher rated extension cord to reach a non-GFCI outlet. Even the outlet at my pool cleaner pump has GFCI.

Is the safety limit switch basically a binary fail point that makes the heating elements not receive power (even with the direct wire bypass of the internal controller)? I have a panel so that's an easy fix.

Still, I'm looking at some Weber and Camp Chef pellet smokers. So I'll probably have a nice slightly-used Auber WiFi controller for sale soon!

Yeah the safety limit switch is a binary fail point. The switch is Normally Closed to begin with. If the connectors fail/corrode and the heat builds up at the switch tab or connector it will heat the switch up so much that it "opens". When it opens its like a break in the wiring so no electricity will run to the heating element.

The controller wiring is separate from this switch so this is why you can have the stock controller receiving power but the element not heating. This switch is a major culprit because of the crappy connectors Masterbuilt uses and the crappy plastic safety limit switch used.
You can simply bypass the switch and connect the wire ends BUT warning/disclaimer. You are removing a safety switch from the mix so if your smoker burns down or worse because there was no safety switch in the mix, you know way (had to be said lol).

Once cheap/bad connectors and plastic switches are replaced in the MES there is little to fail anymore. If you try those connectors again make sure they have NO wiggle to them once installed on the heating element spade. You may have to "crimp" them onto the spade with needle nose pliers so there is no wiggle, and then maybe even put some electrical tape around it to help keep it from wiggling and holding tight should it want to wiggle.
Unfortunately if the connectors are not good for hot tops and they heat up and expand they may eventually become loose if they don't shrink back to a good tight fit on the spade :)

 

[Buttinator]

Yeah the safety limit switch is a binary fail point. The switch is Normally Closed to begin with. If the connectors fail/corrode and the heat builds up at the switch tab or connector it will heat the switch up so much that it "opens". When it opens its like a break in the wiring so no electricity will run to the heating element.

The controller wiring is separate from this switch so this is why you can have the stock controller receiving power but the element not heating. This switch is a major culprit because of the crappy connectors Masterbuilt uses and the crappy plastic safety limit switch used.
You can simply bypass the switch and connect the wire ends BUT warning/disclaimer. You are removing a safety switch from the mix so if your smoker burns down or worse because there was no safety switch in the mix, you know way (had to be said lol).

Once cheap/bad connectors and plastic switches are replaced in the MES there is little to fail anymore. If you try those connectors again make sure they have NO wiggle to them once installed on the heating element spade. You may have to "crimp" them onto the spade with needle nose pliers so there is no wiggle, and then maybe even put some electrical tape around it to help keep it from wiggling and holding tight should it want to wiggle.
Unfortunately if the connectors are not good for hot tops and they heat up and expand they may eventually become loose if they don't shrink back to a good tight fit on the spade :)

I got it fired up to 265F today with a non-GFCI outlet. I shut it off and removed the panel. The connector was too hot to touch. I think if I left that panel off during cooks and ran a fan on it (I have a solar charger I use a DC fan with to cool the Auber) it would prevent further China syndromes. I want to swap in some of those non-insulated connectors I just got from Amazon.

Anyway, at some point this MES will be free to a good home for anyone in the Orange County, CA area. I think I'm going to go with a Windwood Pro. Thanks for all the help in this thread.

 

[bill1]

...connectors melt when there is a bit of looseness which causes resistance which causes heat and melt down. Soldering will solve all of that...

Certainly all true. But I think the best approach for this application is to crimp, then solder. Tin-lead solders can melt as low as 360F, which granted is higher than a stock MES is going to run inside, but close to hot elements etc that temp is not out of the question. If you solder only, melting to liquid actually lubricates a loose wire into falling away. (Esp if gravity is working full time at that location). But if you crimp first, then solder, and you possibly reach a melt point, the melting to liquid actually helps cool the joint a bit more. (You get to "harvest" the solid-to-liquid phase change energy, ie the heat of formation.) Not that you ever want to melt solder. But it's one more reason why normal maintenance on these should include inspecting all the electrical connections at least every couple years.

 

[tallbm]

Certainly all true. But I think the best approach for this application is to crimp, then solder. Tin-lead solders can melt as low as 360F, which granted is higher than a stock MES is going to run inside, but close to hot elements etc that temp is not out of the question. If you solder only, melting to liquid actually lubricates a loose wire into falling away. (Esp if gravity is working full time at that location). But if you crimp first, then solder, and you possibly reach a melt point, the melting to liquid actually helps cool the joint a bit more. (You get to "harvest" the solid-to-liquid phase change energy, ie the heat of formation.) Not that you ever want to melt solder. But it's one more reason why normal maintenance on these should include inspecting all the electrical connections at least every couple years.

Makes sense. Crimp and solder if you got it for sure!

 

[ol tex]

Will try to get this reply done properly. Your pics and diagram are great. Avoided a goof by only taking two wires loose at once. Checked out fine. Auber customer service helped me set the WS-1211H the way I wanted (on/off) and I was running. Smoked roasts, sausage, country-style pork ribs and chicken. As soon as second mortgage comes through will do a brisket. Ha! Remember when they practically gave them away with $20 grocery buy. Those days are long gone. Just wish the extra money was going to ranchers and farmers. They do all the work. Off my soapbox and thanks again for helping me resurrect my MES 40.

 

[tallbm]

Will try to get this reply done properly. Your pics and diagram are great. Avoided a goof by only taking two wires loose at once. Checked out fine. Auber customer service helped me set the WS-1211H the way I wanted (on/off) and I was running. Smoked roasts, sausage, country-style pork ribs and chicken. As soon as second mortgage comes through will do a brisket. Ha! Remember when they practically gave them away with $20 grocery buy. Those days are long gone. Just wish the extra money was going to ranchers and farmers. They do all the work. Off my soapbox and thanks again for helping me resurrect my MES 40.

Glad you are all set up and smoking. Huge difference aye?!
I'm lucky I live in brisket country and about every 2 months I can find briskets on sale for $1.67-$1.99/lb, and are almost always at least Choice grade.

They'll be on sale again soon for 4th of July so I'll do a pair of briskets then :D

 

[02ebz06]

I'm lucky I live in brisket country and about every 2 months I can find briskets on sale for $1.67-$1.99/lb,

Sure... rub it in. Here it's $3.99/lb if you can find them that cheap.

 

[Buttinator]

A quick look at the fan I used during a smoke yesterday. Seemed to work, no China Syndrome. Obviously a PITA to remove the panel. Just removing the panel obviously reduces the heat buildup.

As I lost the sun in the early evening, I had to use an AC charger.

 

[tallbm]

A quick look at the fan I used during a smoke yesterday. Seemed to work, no China Syndrome. Obviously a PITA to remove the panel. Just removing the panel obviously reduces the heat buildup.

View attachment 667958

As I lost the sun in the early evening, I had to use an AC charger.
View attachment 667959

If it works it works. Hopefully with a good solid new connector you wont have the resistance that burns up those connectors :D

 

[dr k]

A quick look at the fan I used during a smoke yesterday. Seemed to work, no China Syndrome. Obviously a PITA to remove the panel. Just removing the panel obviously reduces the heat buildup.

View attachment 667958

As I lost the sun in the early evening, I had to use an AC charger.
View attachment 667959

I peeled the insulation off the panel with six holes since the holes were stripping out in the sheet metal. I just leave the screws in the holes and stretch the insulation over the screw heads and have a board against the back to cover the back of the smoker. I just peel the insulation over the screw heads to check lugs for tightness and corrosion periodically when its unplugged. I soldered on the high heat nickle plated steel Supco T1113 90° lugs or T1111 straight lugs are good.

 

[boost3782]

I just picked up a used MES 40 part number 20070211 that is in working order. This is my panel underneath. From page 1 of the thread it looks like your #1 wire color is a smooth black where as mine is a smooth white. Same deal for your #2 being white and mine being black. Does the position of the wire matter over the color? I take it I ignore both the white braided wires coming from the top right? My Auber AW-1520H is on the way so looking forward to getting this wired over.

 

[tallbm]

I just picked up a used MES 40 part number 20070211 that is in working order. This is my panel underneath. From page 1 of the thread it looks like your #1 wire color is a smooth black where as mine is a smooth white. Same deal for your #2 being white and mine being black. Does the position of the wire matter over the color? I take it I ignore both the white braided wires coming from the top right? My Auber AW-1520H is on the way so looking forward to getting this wired over.

Hi there and welcome!

The #'s don't matter so much. What really matters is that smooth black goes to one of your braided black. Then smooth white goes to the other braided black. Which braided blacks don't really matter as long as smooth black is to braided black and smooth white is to the other braided black the circuit will complete :D

As you can see, Masterbuilt has all kinds of different colors for the braided wires but yours are braided black.

Let me know if you have any questions at all and man you are going to love your new PID run MES. It's something else!

 

[boost3782]

Hi there and welcome!

The #'s don't matter so much. What really matters is that smooth black goes to one of your braided black. Then smooth white goes to the other braided black. Which braided blacks don't really matter as long as smooth black is to braided black and smooth white is to the other braided black the circuit will complete :D

As you can see, Masterbuilt has all kinds of different colors for the braided wires but yours are braided black.

Let me know if you have any questions at all and man you are going to love your new PID run MES. It's something else!

Thanks for the quick response! So simply wire nut those together and plug it into the PID and I'm rolling smoke? Easy enough thank you! I did read you were saying to replace the connectors with the upgraded ones. I can solder or use wire nuts on the 2 connections under the smoker. Which method is preferred? I assume the other connections under there become irrelevant after the rewire so no need for them. Is it the connections behind the smoker and then cutting an access port to the safety switch those connectors your saying to replace with the upgraded female terminals? I snapped a pic of the back of it. Just cut the heat shrink off then cut the old connectors off and replace with new?

 

[tallbm]

Thanks for the quick response! So simply wire nut those together and plug it into the PID and I'm rolling smoke? Easy enough thank you! I did read you were saying to replace the connectors with the upgraded ones. I can solder or use wire nuts on the 2 connections under the smoker. Which method is preferred? I assume the other connections under there become irrelevant after the rewire so no need for them. Is it the connections behind the smoker and then cutting an access port to the safety switch those connectors your saying to replace with the upgraded female terminals? I snapped a pic of the back of it. Just cut the heat shrink off then cut the old connectors off and replace with new?

• Q: So simply wire nut those together and plug it into the PID and I'm rolling smoke?
  • A: Correct, as simple as that for the rewire :D
• Q: I can solder or use wire nuts on the 2 connections under the smoker. Which method is preferred?
  • A: Correct! I mean a good solder and heat shrink insulation/electric tape is as good as it gets but either will work.
• Q: I assume the other connections under there become irrelevant after the rewire so no need for them.
  
  • A: Correct. Once you rewire there is no power going to the board or other wires anymore. They are useless.
• Q: Is it the connections behind the smoker and then cutting an access port to the safety switch those connectors your saying to replace with the upgraded female terminals?
  
  • A: Correct. Cut the panel to get to the safety switch and upgrade those spade connectors and/or even solder it to make it rock solid. Same for the heating element spade connectors.
• Q: I snapped a pic of the back of it. Just cut the heat shrink off then cut the old connectors off and replace with new?
  
  • A: Correct. If you are going to solder then the 90 degree flag connectors are best. They are these Supco T1113: https://www.amazon.com/Supco-T1113-...1698980459&sprefix=supco+t1113,aps,205&sr=8-1

You are super close man.
You may also want to order a set of these ceramic safety switches because the plastic one will melt down and they are all delicate so never wiggle the tabs at the back of the switch.
These will be the EXACT style that work well AND they are a higher limit so you could go up to 325F max smoker temp, but NEVER more than 4 hours and you must be measuring smoker temp at the bottom rack.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09C8PP1JP/ref=twister_dp_update?ie=UTF8&redirect=true&th=1

Your MES insulation is not rated to handle too high of a temp for too long. I have had no issues doing 325F on turkeys and chickens and never more than 4 hours. This fixes the leather skin issues when cooking that high :D

Let me know if this all helps, and ask any questions you have :D

 

[boost3782]

• Q: So simply wire nut those together and plug it into the PID and I'm rolling smoke?
  • A: Correct, as simple as that for the rewire :D
• Q: I can solder or use wire nuts on the 2 connections under the smoker. Which method is preferred?
  • A: Correct! I mean a good solder and heat shrink insulation/electric tape is as good as it gets but either will work.
• Q: I assume the other connections under there become irrelevant after the rewire so no need for them.
  
  • A: Correct. Once you rewire there is no power going to the board or other wires anymore. They are useless.
• Q: Is it the connections behind the smoker and then cutting an access port to the safety switch those connectors your saying to replace with the upgraded female terminals?
  
  • A: Correct. Cut the panel to get to the safety switch and upgrade those spade connectors and/or even solder it to make it rock solid. Same for the heating element spade connectors.
• Q: I snapped a pic of the back of it. Just cut the heat shrink off then cut the old connectors off and replace with new?
  
  • A: Correct. If you are going to solder then the 90 degree flag connectors are best. They are these Supco T1113: https://www.amazon.com/Supco-T1113-Disconnect-Temperature-Degree/dp/B0071NCA48/ref=sr_1_1?crid=279FA73TMKXOO&keywords=supco+t1113&qid=1698980459&sprefix=supco+t1113,aps,205&sr=8-1

You are super close man.
You may also want to order a set of these ceramic safety switches because the plastic one will melt down and they are all delicate so never wiggle the tabs at the back of the switch.
These will be the EXACT style that work well AND they are a higher limit so you could go up to 325F max smoker temp, but NEVER more than 4 hours and you must be measuring smoker temp at the bottom rack.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09C8PP1JP/ref=twister_dp_update?ie=UTF8&redirect=true&th=1

Your MES insulation is not rated to handle too high of a temp for too long. I have had no issues doing 325F on turkeys and chickens and never more than 4 hours. This fixes the leather skin issues when cooking that high :D

Let me know if this all helps, and ask any questions you have :D

Your the man! I appreciate your help. I have a weber smokey mountain with a bbq guru digi q that can hold 225 for like 15 hours solid that does all my smoking. This mes 40 is only for summer sausage, snack sticks, 170 degrees and lower stuff only. I had a deer knocked down Monday and tried to smoke everything wensday on the weber with hanging racks and had terrible hot spots which I should have known better so enter the mes 40 to solve that issue.

I have already done the mailbox mod with an all aluminum mailbox instead of galvanized and added legs to the a-maze-n tray. The other questions I can think of at this point is I bought an extra 3" adjustable 90 degree for the top outlet. I took the damper off and it fits perfectly. I had forgotten about the temp prob and 2 food probes that have to go in from the Auber. Is the top 90 needed for draft on the low temp smoking I'm going to be doing? If so I'm guessing a few holes at the base of it pull the probes through and drop them won't hurt anything? Where are most people putting the temp probe from the Auber? I had planned on the unit sitting on top the smoker but have read some people saying the heat may cause issues. Is it a problem for the low Temps I'm doing for the unit to sit on top?