MES Rewire Simple Guide - No Back Removal Needed!!!

[boost3782]

Glad you are to this point!

• Q: Is the top 90 needed for draft on the low temp smoking I'm going to be doing?
  
  • A: The top stack should help with draft no matter what. I don't have one and have no issues with sausage smokes. Cold smokes, I use my little cold smoker assist contraption (computer fan blows up a cardboard tube set over the vent) and it creates draft and fixes any stale smoke issues when I cold smoke. Your temps for sausage will have no issues with draft no matter extra 90degree stack or stock MES vent hole.
• Q: If so I'm guessing a few holes at the base of it pull the probes through and drop them won't hurt anything?
  
  • A: I think holes and running the probes through would work great. Just don't cut your wires in the holes. I don't even think you would need to electric tape over the excess holes but that could be an option too so that the 90 degree stack isn't affected by any gaps/holes you drill.
• Q: Where are most people putting the temp probe from the Auber?
  • A: I clip my PID probe underneath the bottom rack, dead in the center. I use an alligator clip but a regular bbq rack clip would work as well. I then cover that spot with a small piece of foil to avoid the probe getting drippings on it.
• Q: I had planned on the unit sitting on top the smoker but have read some people saying the heat may cause issues. Is it a problem for the low Temps I'm doing for the unit to sit on top?
  
  • A: You should be fine no matter what. I've never had an issue with an Auber sitting on top of an MES even when smoking at 325F degrees.

Once you get everything dialed in (mailbox mod and PID tuned up) I think you are going to be amazed at how performant your MES is.
Don't be surprised if you get the idea of (I can smoke a pork butt or a brisket over night and just go to sleep!!!), it is a real thing :D

Keep the questions coming and let us know how it goes.

Thanks again. I think I should be able to get it rolling from here. I start my pork butts around 9 pm and never have to even bother with it until after coffee around 9am in the morning. That digi q on my smokey mountain is unreal. I'm expecting this pid mes to be even better on holding exact temps.

 

[tallbm]

Thanks again. I think I should be able to get it rolling from here. I start my pork butts around 9 pm and never have to even bother with it until after coffee around 9am in the morning. That digi q on my smokey mountain is unreal. I'm expecting this pid mes to be even better on holding exact temps.

FYI, try these P-I-D values and see how well it hits and holds temp. It can get dialed in from there as needed:
P = 7
I = 208
D = 210

 

[boost3782]

FYI, try these P-I-D values and see how well it hits and holds temp. It can get dialed in from there as needed:
P = 7
I = 208
D = 210

I set those values and setup a step program based on time. It's working wonderfully! Some venison summer sausage for the first cook in it. Step 2 just kicked in. The app is working great.

 

[tallbm]

I set those values and setup a step program based on time. It's working wonderfully! Some venison summer sausage for the first cook in it. Step 2 just kicked in. The app is working great.

Congrats man!!!
I believe we can thank chopsaw for those P-I-D values. I just wrote em down to regurgitate them is all :D

Looking forward to seeing how your summer sausage comes out. Ask any sausage smoking process questions you have now that tight temp control is conquered.
From here just gotta get the rest of the process going well but the steps are easy. The key is to not miss any and to do them when/how they need to be done and you will have perfectly cooked summer sausage! :D

 

[chopsaw]

I set those values and setup a step program based on time.

Congrats . You're gonna be amazed at how well it works .

Here's what I do . I have a step up in mine too . If I want to do something at a higher temp , or for a longer time , I just change C-1 / T-1. That way you still have the rest programmed and you only need to set C-1 and T-1 .

 

[R_C]

Can I just clip 1 & 2 together?

 

[tallbm]

Can I just clip 1 & 2 together?

Yep!!! You got the fancy clip version! That should do it! :D

 

[dave_a]

My 20 year old MES digital "dorm refrigerator" smoker just died...for good - I think.
Years ago, I had already, cleaned and replaced the corroded spade connectors on the element. While troubleshooting, I cleaned and replaced wire ends as needed. Still no power to the top digital timer/temp control unit on the top. Just a "beep" when plugged in. No LED illumination, no heat. No obvious burn marks on the lower circuit board. Continuity from the cord +&- to the board. I'm not sure its worth fixing. But I've done some good work with it. My options appear:
1. I've read about PIDs from Auber. Delivered w/tax & freight $180.
2. Are the replacement parts from Masterbuilt available for my antique? AND are the MES parts substantially LESS money than AUBER PID?
3. Buying a brand new MES seems like a no brainer given the high PID cost. Help me with the decision, please.
Thank you / dave-a

 

[cmayna]

Dave-A
Welcome to SMF. Is your MES a model 30 or 40? If a 30, maybe this is the perfect time to upgrade to a larger (model 40) unit. If though you like the size of a 30, then I would go the PID route and yes if it's a 40, keep it and go PID. This thread has helped so many fellow smokers. You can't go wrong.

 

[normanaj]

Can I just clip 1 & 2 together?

This was same with mine. Super easy!

 

[tallbm]

My 20 year old MES digital "dorm refrigerator" smoker just died...for good - I think.
Years ago, I had already, cleaned and replaced the corroded spade connectors on the element. While troubleshooting, I cleaned and replaced wire ends as needed. Still no power to the top digital timer/temp control unit on the top. Just a "beep" when plugged in. No LED illumination, no heat. No obvious burn marks on the lower circuit board. Continuity from the cord +&- to the board. I'm not sure its worth fixing. But I've done some good work with it. My options appear:
1. I've read about PIDs from Auber. Delivered w/tax & freight $180.
2. Are the replacement parts from Masterbuilt available for my antique? AND are the MES parts substantially LESS money than AUBER PID?
3. Buying a brand new MES seems like a no brainer given the high PID cost. Help me with the decision, please.
Thank you / dave-a

Hi there and welcome!

I agree with the cmayna on this one.

This is going to sound odd but the $180 PID and upgrade is waaaaaaaaay better than getting a brand new MES, provided your current MES is in good physical shape.
This is becuause the rewire and PID controller make your old smoker perform better than brand new $1,000 electric smokers you could.
So the $180 is like like getting a $1,000+ performing smoker vs a $250 stock MES which still will have all it's same performance and electrical issues.
Doing the rewire and using a PID is really like getting a whole new and completely different smoker vs just keeping the same old one working.

So to reply to your points:

1. Yep that sounds right for the Auber PID and price but again, its more properly viewed as getting a new smoker vs a part that keeps your smoker running because your smoker will behave like a completely different super performing beast vs what it used to :D

2. If you need the lower circuit board then you are likely out of luck. If you only need the top controller there is a chance you could get a replacement because there are now some 3rd party copy cat MES controllers coming out of China and available on Amazon which is a nice option IF you could confirm the top controller was the actual issue.

3. I understand your thought process here but I would say that it is not exactly accurate. Going the PID even with it's cost means you get a far superrior smoker that behaves like a completely different machine for $180 vs getting a brand new MES that behaves the same with with all the same weaknesses as what you had going in the past. It's an apples to oranges comparison vs apples to apples.
So if the physical nature of your MES is good then you the rewire and the PID is a far superior option for less money overall. Also if you have an MES 40 its even better.
If you have an MES30 and this is now your opportunity to upgrade to a bigger MES40 then going brand new is more justifiable... though I tell people all the time the best electric smoker is a free or super cheap used MES40 you find on Facebook or Craigslist that you wash out at a car wash, rewire, and slap a PID on.


Ask any/all questions you have and I hope this info helps out some :D

 

[dave_a]

Its 30" tall (model 20070106), but big enough for my needs.
Just to be clear: If my lower circuit is toast, I can bypass it, add a PID and I'm good to go?
Check out the board pic - no obvious fail?

 

[dave_a]

Can I trouble shoot this further?
If the bottom board is good, issue would likely be the digital controller, right?
I might fix it with $27 amazon controller?

 

[tallbm]

Its 30" tall (model 20070106), but big enough for my needs.
Just to be clear: If my lower circuit is toast, I can bypass it, add a PID and I'm good to go?
Check out the board pic - no obvious fail?

Correct, the rewire bypasses the board and top controller but keeps the high temp safety cuttoff switch in the mix.
The cord to the MES will feed power to the heating element without any control. It will just heat up if fed electricity. This why a PID controller is needed after the rewire. The PID controller will take power from the wall outlet and feed it on/off to the rewired MES cord which will cause it to heat up.

The PID will feed power on/off until it hits the set temp you you punch in and it will feed power to hold it. The PID controller has a temp probe you drop down the vent of the MES and attach underneath the center of the lowest smoker rack and it will measure temp to know when it has hit your set temp :)

Can I trouble shoot this further?
If the bottom board is good, issue would likely be the digital controller, right?
I might fix it with $27 amazon controller?

There is only 1 more thing you can do to trouble shoot. Basically check that your grounds are connected well and that the connectors at the element AND the high temp safety cutt off switch are good to go and are not corroded or burnt up.
After that you can only replace the top controller with another one that works for your unit and see if that fixes things.

I didn't notice any burn marks or puffy components on your circuit board but I only have the picture to go off of.

A rewire and a PID is never a bad thing and if you have good high temp connectors replaced at your heating element and safety cut off switch (and you have a panel cut or it came with a panel to get to your safety cut off switch u are good). At this point you can keep your smoker running through anything short of a lightning strike because the elements rarely fail and when they do they are like a $24 part to replace :D

I hope this info helps :)

 

[dave_a]

Correct, the rewire bypasses the board and top controller but keeps the high temp safety cuttoff switch in the mix.
The cord to the MES will feed power to the heating element without any control. It will just heat up if fed electricity. This why a PID controller is needed after the rewire. The PID controller will take power from the wall outlet and feed it on/off to the rewired MES cord which will cause it to heat up.

The PID will feed power on/off until it hits the set temp you you punch in and it will feed power to hold it. The PID controller has a temp probe you drop down the vent of the MES and attach underneath the center of the lowest smoker rack and it will measure temp to know when it has hit your set temp :)



There is only 1 more thing you can do to trouble shoot. Basically check that your grounds are connected well and that the connectors at the element AND the high temp safety cutt off switch are good to go and are not corroded or burnt up.
After that you can only replace the top controller with another one that works for your unit and see if that fixes things.

I didn't notice any burn marks or puffy components on your circuit board but I only have the picture to go off of.

A rewire and a PID is never a bad thing and if you have good high temp connectors replaced at your heating element and safety cut off switch (and you have a panel cut or it came with a panel to get to your safety cut off switch u are good). At this point you can keep your smoker running through anything short of a lightning strike because the elements rarely fail and when they do they are like a $24 part to replace :D

I hope this info helps :)

Perfect info, I've gone thru the element connections. I'll "hot wire" and see if the element gets 120v. Before that I'll check the pins to the digital controller for some voltage.
Amazon has a controller on the way. Unlike Napa I CAN return electrical parts!
Thank you so much for your help! I'll report back.

 

[dave_a]

Perfect info, I've gone thru the element connections. I'll "hot wire" and see if the element gets 120v. Before that I'll check the pins to the digital controller for some voltage.
Amazon has a controller on the way. Unlike Napa I CAN return electrical parts!
Thank you so much for your help! I'll report back.

Tallbm, THANK YOU for the help!
Amazon digital control panel brought the smoker back to life. I re-freshed the ground wires. (They are barely adequate).
Smoker still trips the gfi outlets, but we have an existing workaround for that.
I'll bet it'll still give me a shock if I'm in bare feet! Thanks for your help, and I'll keep that PID in mind if more failures occur.

 

[tallbm]

Tallbm, THANK YOU for the help!
Amazon digital control panel brought the smoker back to life. I re-freshed the ground wires. (They are barely adequate).
Smoker still trips the gfi outlets, but we have an existing workaround for that.
I'll bet it'll still give me a shock if I'm in bare feet! Thanks for your help, and I'll keep that PID in mind if more failures occur.

I'm glad you are back up and running. I look forward to seeing what you make now :D

 

[dr k]

Tallbm, THANK YOU for the help!
Amazon digital control panel brought the smoker back to life. I re-freshed the ground wires. (They are barely adequate).
Smoker still trips the gfi outlets, but we have an existing workaround for that.
I'll bet it'll still give me a shock if I'm in bare feet! Thanks for your help, and I'll keep that PID in mind if more failures occur.

You can ohm the outer element jacket to the outside chassis to see if there's continuity and feel for pits under and around the element and if grease on the legs to short to element ground wire through the jacket seam. Disconnect the lugs to the element to check ohms across the two legs of the element. 12 ohms for the Mes 40 1,200 watt element and 17.99 ohms for the 800 watt Mes 30 element.

 

[dave_a]

You can ohm the outer element jacket to the outside chassis to see if there's continuity and feel for pits under and around the element and if grease on the legs to short to element ground wire through the jacket seam. Disconnect the lugs to the element to check ohms across the two legs of the element. 12 ohms for the Mes 40 1,200 watt element and 17.99 ohms for the 800 watt Mes 30 element.

I think I understand better your recommendation for a PID controller.
With my new Amazon replacement knock off of MES digital controller. I placed a meat probe on the rack near the MES temp sensor, just above the water pan. I set the dig. controller temp at 200F. It went off at 220, on at 198F displayed. Temp on the meat rack ranged from 265F (off) to 224F (on). Vent temp outlet ranged from 185 to 160F.
I'm thinking the meat rack temp is the most important. What temp range control does PID typically offer by comparison? Thanks/dave_a

 

[normanaj]

What temp range control does PID typically offer by comparison?

With the Auber most folks here get dead on or at worst +/- 3degrees set temp.