MES Rewire Simple Guide - No Back Removal Needed!!!

[Robb@home]

Hi there and welcome!

Wow it looks like they might have made it easy to bypass their circuit board with the new clips.
In short all ou need to do is connect the Black and White wire clip from the plug to the double braided Red Wire clip that runs up into the unit, NOT the clip for the red wires that run to the circuit bard.
At that point you could clip all the little thin wires that run to the light and the controller on top and then toss out the circuit board. Simple as that!

The older models there are no clips and you basically have to cut the ends off the red braided wires on the circuit board and the ends off the black and white wire on the circuit board that run to the cord. U splice black to red, and white to red and u are done!
Now you can just fit the clips together provided they fit, if not you cut and splice the old way to red to black, and red to white, and bypass the circuit board and toss the circuit board!

Super simple :)

Let me know if this makes sense :)

I just wanted to chime in... my Gen 2 MES died last year and control boards are nonexistent so I decided to go the PID route. When I opened it up, the wiring looked nothing like the OPs and I thought I was in trouble - I am good with my hands, but technically ignorant. When I saw martcrn's pics I knew I had the same style of wiring. I went inside, had a beer (thinking I was going to have to tear apart the circuit box with its security screws), then came back to look at it. I literally just had to unclip the power in and power out of the circuit box and clip them together! No splicing, no cutting, nothing! I plugged my MES into my PID and it is up and running.

THANK YOU ALL!!!

 

[tallbm]

I just wanted to chime in... my Gen 2 MES died last year and control boards are nonexistent so I decided to go the PID route. When I opened it up, the wiring looked nothing like the OPs and I though I was in trouble - I an good with my hands, but technically ignorant. When I saw martcrn's pics I knew I had the same style of wiring. I went inside, had a beer (thinking I was going to have to tear apart the circuit box with its security screws), then came back to look at it. I literally just had to unclip the power in and power out of the circuit box and clip them together! No splicing, no cutting, nothing! I plugged my MES into my PID and it is up and running.

THANK YOU ALL!!!

I'm glad this worked out for ya! I wish they had always made life that easy hahaha. It's good to have pictures and an evolution of how the thing has changed yet stayed the same and how u and others can bypass the horrible MES controller to join the PID club :)

 

[Robb@home]

I'm glad this worked out for ya! I wish they had always made life that easy hahaha. It's good to have pictures and an evolution of how the thing has changed yet stayed the same and how u and others can bypass the horrible MES controller to join the PID club :)

I wish I had taken photos, but I borrowed one of the ones from martcrn... I took apart the two connectors circled in white, fished the red one down to the bottom opening, and just connected them. Thought I would post an easier pic for people to see...

 

[tallbm]

Thanks for posting that pic it will really help folks out :)

 

[front sight]

Ok guys bear with me if you would. I've read all the posts in this thread and looked at the pictures a few times and I think I understand the rewire for the MES 40 inch (Yes, I'm one of those individuals who understands it better by see it done once than by reading about it) BUT I still have a couple of questions.

Thanks for bearing with me. After spending the cash for a new Auber I just want to make sure I hook it up right, don't want or need something to fizzle out on me.

 

[Robb@home]

Ok guys bear with me if you would. I've read all the posts in this thread and looked at the pictures a few times and I think I understand the rewire for the MES 40 inch (Yes, I'm one of those individuals who understands it better by see it done once than by reading about it) BUT I still have a couple of questions.View attachment 445648
View attachment 445651View attachment 445652
Thanks for bearing with me. After spending the cash for a new Auber I just want to make sure I hook it up right, don't want or need something to fizzle out on me.

I will not claim to be an expert. But what I found was that the black and white are power from the plug going IN to the controller box. The red wires (BROWN IN YOUR CASE) are the power coming OUT of the controller box. When you disconnect the plugs (black/white and brown/brown) and reconnect black/white to brown/brown you will bypass the box. Honestly you can plug them all in - the box will be bypassed and the box will be a powerless closed loop.

Tl;dr: just clip the two small ones to the opposite large ones and done.

If this is wrong, somebody let me know. I did my first PID smoke of some ribs and it worked fine. I am tackling an 18 lb brisket tomorrow night!

 

[front sight]

THANKS !!!!

 

[tallbm]

Ok guys bear with me if you would. I've read all the posts in this thread and looked at the pictures a few times and I think I understand the rewire for the MES 40 inch (Yes, I'm one of those individuals who understands it better by see it done once than by reading about it) BUT I still have a couple of questions.View attachment 445648
View attachment 445651View attachment 445652
Thanks for bearing with me. After spending the cash for a new Auber I just want to make sure I hook it up right, don't want or need something to fizzle out on me.

Hi there and welcome!

I can't see form your pictures to tell you which exact two to clip together BUT if you were to unclip everything and throw out the black box with the circuit board and all wires that went with it then I beleive the only brown wires left behind would clip to the black and white wires left behind. That should make it simple. Let me know if this makes sense and if it is accurate :)

 

[jnorth]

View attachment 386962

Thanks, just did the same to my new ones. One thing I noticed though, the white and blue wires don't need to be pulled, they are actually jumpered where they are normally.

 

[Art209]

No problem. I honestly don't know how to save a post other than to post in it or add it as a bookmark/favorite in my web browser, so I understand lol.

The body/physical construction of the MES is the strength. The wiring connectors and the controller/electronics seem to be the weak points. Rewiring and using a PID controller makes a rock solid smoker!!! :)

Hi tallbm, I am a complete noob and THANK GOD I found your instructions. Is there a certain type of PID you would recommend for a MES Gen 1 electric smoker? I have found so many low cost PID controllers to Auber brand ones. I am kind of lost on what to get. ANd do the Auber brands come with a heat sink or SSD relay or what. Kind of lost as you can tell. Thanks!

 

[tallbm]

Hi tallbm, I am a complete noob and THANK GOD I found your instructions. Is there a certain type of PID you would recommend for a MES Gen 1 electric smoker? I have found so many low cost PID controllers to Auber brand ones. I am kind of lost on what to get. ANd do the Auber brands come with a heat sink or SSD relay or what. Kind of lost as you can tell. Thanks!

Hi Art I sent the same answer in another thread so feel free to reply to either. I am including the info here for completeness for anyone else who has your same questions.

For a 1200watt MES unit you will the following is a plug and play Auber PID controller that has all SSD, heat sink, etc. all in one ready to go!

Multi Purpose Controller [WS-1510ELPM] - $159.95 : Auber Instruments, Inc., Temperature control solutions for home and industry

Auber Instruments, Inc. Multi Purpose Controller [WS-1510ELPM] - The WS-1510ELPM is a versatile temperature controller to have in your home. It can be used for various applications such as Sous Vide cooking, controlling an electric smoker, making yogurt, dough proofing, controlling the...

www.auberins.com

Cheaper options u may see usually cannot handle the 1200watt load you need to manage OR they are just parts of a PID conroller and u have to piece everything together which takes more tools and more parts.

In the end the plug and play model I posted here comes out the same or less than if you are starting from scratch and buying all the parts to assemble a pid controller... I did all the research in the past hahah.

NOW, if u already have some parts, the tools, and the know how then u can assemble one for less money but honestly that is not most people who are just learning about PID controllers.

This plug and play model with the multi-purpose probe is the way to go. Dont worry if it seems a little pricey because once u do the simple rewire mentioned in this post and u use this controller your smoker is a completely new and different electric smoker that WAY out-performs what you used to have haha.

Let me know if this info helps or if you have any questions. Thanks! :)

 

[chopsaw]

This plug and play model with the multi-purpose probe is the way to go. Dont worry if it seems a little pricey because once u do the simple rewire mentioned in this post and u use this controller your smoker is a completely new and different electric smoker that WAY out-performs what you used to have haha.

Very true . Well worth the price . I have mine on a Gen 1 MES 30 . Works great .
You can also use it to control other equipment , or move it to another smoker in the future .
I second the advice given by Tallbm . You won't be sorry with this one .

 

[TreyLock]

I just did this rewire on an MES40 Model number 20075515. It is somewhere between a Gen2 and Gen2.5. It has the slanted drip tray, wireless remote (not bluetooth), but the vent is on top left. Anyway, I thought I would post some pictures for anyone who has this model.

 

[tallbm]

I just did this rewire on an MES40 Model number 20075515. It is somewhere between a Gen2 and Gen2.5. It has the slanted drip tray, wireless remote (not bluetooth), but the vent is on top left. Anyway, I thought I would post some pictures for anyone who has this model.

View attachment 453893View attachment 453894View attachment 453895View attachment 453896

Hi there and welcome!

Thanks for posting your rewire, I'm positive it will help someone out there. At the very least it helps reinforce the fact that the rewire job stays relatively the same no matter how much Masterbuilt churches up the wire colors and circuit board down there at the bottom of the smoker :)

Let us know how your unit works out now and what u make with it! : )

 

[benfinkel]

Hey everyone, just followed along with the rewire instructions here to bypass the OEM controller. Thanks so much for all the pics and details!

Mine was model #20075315, and the wiring had thick heavy clips that reminded me of molex connectors you would see in a computer power supply. I plugged it in briefly and it seemed to work great (element got hot anyways). I have a few questions:

1) I quite literally took out that black box that housed the power circuit board kit. With the power connected directly to the element the rainbow wires from the controller are just curled up and tucked into the housing itself but otherwise not connected to anything. That's cool right? Do I need to keep that thing? I think it was busted anyways.

2) Now I need a PID and it sounds like the Auber WS-1510ELPM is what everyone recommends for ease of use (easy is a big deal to me). I will just plug the smoker into that controller and then the controller into the wall?

3) How does that controller get a temp reading from inside the smoker? It has some kind of probe or sensor or something? Is is accurate? Does it need to be calibrated?

Thanks again for all your help!

 

[tallbm]

Hey everyone, just followed along with the rewire instructions here to bypass the OEM controller. Thanks so much for all the pics and details!

Mine was model #20075315, and the wiring had thick heavy clips that reminded me of molex connectors you would see in a computer power supply. I plugged it in briefly and it seemed to work great (element got hot anyways). I have a few questions:

1) I quite literally took out that black box that housed the power circuit board kit. With the power connected directly to the element the rainbow wires from the controller are just curled up and tucked into the housing itself but otherwise not connected to anything. That's cool right? Do I need to keep that thing? I think it was busted anyways.

2) Now I need a PID and it sounds like the Auber WS-1510ELPM is what everyone recommends for ease of use (easy is a big deal to me). I will just plug the smoker into that controller and then the controller into the wall?

3) How does that controller get a temp reading from inside the smoker? It has some kind of probe or sensor or something? Is is accurate? Does it need to be calibrated?

Thanks again for all your help!

I there and welcome!

1) What you have done is fine. Once you do the rewire the circuit board and any other non-spliced wiring is trash... especially if it wasn't working for you anyhow hahaha.

2) That Auber PID is the model most picked because it covers the wattage of both the MES40 and therefore the MES30. You are correct. You plug the MES into the Auber PID, then the Auber PID into the wall. Throw the PID temp probe into the MES and punch the set temp into the Auber PID. Enjoy fantastic smoker control! :)

3)The Auber PID will have a temp probe. Drop it down the smoker vent and clip it to one of the racks (get a 6 foot long prop + wire). The probes from Auber seem to be fairly accurate. Before you plug it into the smoker take it inside an plug in the Auber and test the probe in boiling water. WRAP the probe in a plastic bag and secure with a rubber band because the probesre NOT waterproof. Don't touch the bottom of the pot and the temp probe should be reading 212F on the auber or close to it. If it is a few degrees off in one direction or another note it down and understand that is your margin of error. So if it reads 210F instead of 212F then you know it measures 2F short. If you want to smoke something at 275F you set the temp to 277F to make up for the 2F shortfall. you get th eidea.

There is no calibrating with that model of Auber PID so you will want to test the probe to know how it behaves. You want to do this with any other remote thermometer proves you have anyhow as well so its a good practice to know.

I hope this info helps :)

 

[benfinkel]

Thanks so much for the fast reply! I was pretty disappointed when I couldn't find replacement parts for the unit. It spent a winter outside and that destroyed the control panel and the controller box I think. This was a daunting prospect for me but the posts in the forum were super helpful.

Ordered the Auber looking forward to some meats again!

 

[chopsaw]

1510ELPM has a temp probe adjustment . I'll have to look and see what the access code is . I adjusted mine to match my temp probe on my therm . Not that I really needed to .

Code is 155 to access Calibration offset of the chamber temp probe . Can be adjusted plus / minus 40 degrees .

 

[dr k]

I there and welcome!

1) What you have done is fine. Once you do the rewire the circuit board and any other non-spliced wiring is trash... especially if it wasn't working for you anyhow hahaha.

2) That Auber PID is the model most picked because it covers the wattage of both the MES40 and therefore the MES30. You are correct. You plug the MES into the Auber PID, then the Auber PID into the wall. Throw the PID temp probe into the MES and punch the set temp into the Auber PID. Enjoy fantastic smoker control! :)

3)The Auber PID will have a temp probe. Drop it down the smoker vent and clip it to one of the racks (get a 6 foot long prop + wire). The probes from Auber seem to be fairly accurate. Before you plug it into the smoker take it inside an plug in the Auber and test the probe in boiling water. WRAP the probe in a plastic bag and secure with a rubber band because the probesre NOT waterproof. Don't touch the bottom of the pot and the temp probe should be reading 212F on the auber or close to it. If it is a few degrees off in one direction or another note it down and understand that is your margin of error. So if it reads 210F instead of 212F then you know it measures 2F short. If you want to smoke something at 275F you set the temp to 277F to make up for the 2F shortfall. you get th eidea.

There is no calibrating with that model of Auber PID so you will just have to test the probe to know how it behaves. You want to do this with any other remote thermometer proves you have anyhow as well so its a good practice to know.

I hope this info helps :)

The WS-1510ELPM does have an offset to calibrate the probe, lock code 155. If necessary and the RTD multi purpose probe you get with it, if you select it vs sous vide only is for sous vide or smoker and waterproof for turning rice cookers and analog crookpots into a SV or to make yogurt p4,i0, d40. Get the multi purpose RTD.

 

[dr k]

1510ELPM has a temp probe adjustment . I'll have to look and see what the access code is . I adjusted mine to match my temp probe on my therm . Not that I really needed to .

Code is 155 to access Calibration offset of the chamber temp probe . Can be adjusted plus / minus 40 degrees .

Lol right! I leave my pit probes in the smoker and pull the disconnect ring to bring in the controller but for small stuff with the crockpot for SV I wanted to get a spare multi purpose RTD for indoors/backup but dang it's $24 but worth every penny. I just don't make that much yogurt. I have a back up Mes element so I may get another RTD multi probe. If I make yogurt at 110 for 4 hours in a crockpot it's nice having a probe that isn't carbed up. I asked if they had discount codes when I got the 1510 a couple of years ago but they didnt but gave me $5 off the shipping. I'll just have to ask and see.