I have a plumbing issue

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voyager 663rd

Smoking Fanatic
Original poster
May 20, 2011
316
233
Mississauga, On
The diverter on my Kohler tub spout has given up the ghost. The spout is a thread-on spout (as best as I can determine) and will NOT unscrew.

I've heated it and put a pipe wrench on--won't turn.
I've heated and hit it (gently) with a hammer and with the p/wrench--won't turn.
I've heated it then immediately ran cold water (pipe cold/exterior hot)--won't turn.

The thread end is totally corroded despite using a water softener so my question is:

as I can't spread the plastic tab (for fear of breaking it) off the old spout to remove the gate AND also cannot spread the plastic tab (same reason) on the new gate I want to:

cut the (existing) rod that moves the gate up and down so the whole gate/rod assembly can just drop down.

I would then get a universal (I hope) diverter repair kit and just sub that in to the existing non-removable spout.

Will that work?

forktender forktender
 
The diverter on my Kohler tub spout has given up the ghost. The spout is a thread-on spout (as best as I can determine) and will NOT unscrew.

I've heated it and put a pipe wrench on--won't turn.
I've heated and hit it (gently) with a hammer and with the p/wrench--won't turn.
I've heated it then immediately ran cold water (pipe cold/exterior hot)--won't turn.

The thread end is totally corroded despite using a water softener so my question is:

as I can't spread the plastic tab off the old spout to remove the gate AND also cannot spread the plastic tab on the new gate I want to:

cut the (existing) rod that moves the gate up and down so the whole gate/rod assembly can just drop down.

I would then get a universal (I hope) diverter repair kit and just sub that in to the existing non-removable spout.

Will that work? No set screw at 'wall' end. Really difficult to get an unblurry pic as the tub is 'in the way'
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iMarkup_20251115_231206.jpg

forktender forktender
 
Last edited:
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Yes, a picture will definitely help. Assuming you have the water turned off, try to open the valve and then un-thread it from the valve housing. I've seen that alot. A closed valve while trying to loosen it, is darn near impossible
 
With my previous home owner fixes similar to this I would cut the 1/2 inch copper pipe as close as I could behind the spout and go from there. If you have to go into the wall it sucks but if you can solder a union and go from there.

That is way better in the long run than ending up with a leak behind the wall that you might not notice until it is too late.

We had a copper pipe in a bathroom that had a pinhole leak years ago. I noticed at the time that the carpet in the bedroom next to it was wet. After cutting a huge chunk of drywall in the bedroom out I found the pinhole leak inside the wall.

The fix was pretty easy. Cut out the bad pipe area and patch in a new piece. Then fix the drywall once I was satisfied the fix worked.
 
The diverter on my Kohler tub spout has given up the ghost. The spout is a thread-on spout (as best as I can determine) and will NOT unscrew.

I've heated it and put a pipe wrench on--won't turn.
I've heated and hit it (gently) with a hammer and with the p/wrench--won't turn.
I've heated it then immediately ran cold water (pipe cold/exterior hot)--won't turn.

The thread end is totally corroded despite using a water softener so my question is:

as I can't spread the plastic tab off the old spout to remove the gate AND also cannot spread the plastic tab on the new gate I want to:

cut the (existing) rod that moves the gate up and down so the whole gate/rod assembly can just drop down.

I would then get a universal (I hope) diverter repair kit and just sub that in to the existing non-removable spout.

Will that work? No set screw at 'wall' end. Really difficult to get an unblurry pic as the tub is 'in the way'
View attachment 727034

View attachment 727035
forktender forktender
I'm sure there is a set screw in there still, the spout and the access hole are misaligned.
Can you spin the spout at all? If you can, try spinning the metal portion while looking at the white Teflon portion for a set screw, which will be an Allen screw.
Inside that white Teflon ring there are two black O rings which seal the spout to the nipple coming out of the wall, I'm sure they are harder than a rock by now, so if you can't find a set screw, more heat, or a grinding wheel on a Dermal, and tin snips to cut the spout away, then the Teflon sealing ring. The nipple coming out of the wall should either be threaded brass, but most likely copper pipe, if it is copper pipe be careful not to mar it while cutting it off. Go slow with a Dremel and cut of wheel, or mini hacksaw blade, cut the Teflon ring about 3/4s of the way through, then take a cold chisel or a big flat blade screwdriver and pop it a few times with a hammer to break it free.

Have you tried grabbing the metal part of the spout with Channel locks, while it's hot?
Then spinning it to look for the set screw on the Teflon ring? That's what I would do before attempting to cut the steel spout off. I'm pretty confident that the set screw just spun out of sight.

Let me know what you find, if you can't get it I'll give you my number, and try talking you though it.

Dan.
 
The set screw will be in the window closest to the tile.
Some spouts have a threaded male adapter soldered on the end of the copper stub out.
So if that's the case, there might not be a Teflon sealing ring with a set screw.
If that's the case, more heat on the end of the spout, where the water comes out, may be necessary, to loosen up the gunk, or melt the pipe dope.
I'd wrap a wet rag closest to the tile to protect against heat transfer.
Dan.
 
Lots to digest but:

When I heat the diverter end I can twist that end about 1/8" with a monkey wrench within seconds of removing the heat (spout is not red hot but IS too hot to touch). I initially could not rotate it at all. The end near the wall does not rotate.

I'm currently using a 1000o F heat gun. Should I be using a propane torch instead?

I'm using a monkey wrench as I am replacing the whole spout anyways so not concerned about marring the finish.

I don't know how the wall end screw could be out of alignment as it's the first time ever an attempt was made to remove it. It's possible I suppose when it was first installed they tightended it and then rotated to get it 'straight'.

I've only made the assumption there is a copper male adapter soldered to the end of the copper pipe.

I'm going to try to get a better pic through the slot at the wall. I"m pretty sure there IS a teflon ring at the wall end. I'm also pretty sure there is drywall mud in there as well (which is not normal).

Maybe they filled the wall hole (in the tile) then finished by putting the spout on?? Anything's possible.

I'll try for a better pic later. If needed, I will further expand on possibly cutting this off but that can wait a bit.

Don't think I've missed answering any of your points.

Later :emoji_fingers_crossed: :emoji_thumbsup:

P.S. I did NOT try heating the spout at the wall.
 
One thing I forgot to mention: kohler sent me a replacement "spin on" spout. There is no teflon ring. It's basically empty inside except for the threaded male end at the diverter end.

Hate to assume but: assume there is no ring in the 'installed' spout then?

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Be very careful as the copper can twist and cause damage behind the tile.
Is there an access door behind the tub?

You are correct. The new spout will just screw on to the male adapter...if there is one. Just add some tape dope and hand tighten up snug.

Keith
 
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