Help! Over insulated my smoker

[PassTheFlux]

fellow smokers,

Recently I fully insulated my dyno-glow wide body in efforts to create more efficiently and maintain better heat. However now, even without about only 20 lit coals in it my temps are never below 275 it seems unless I am opening the fire box door. Obviously the answer is take some of the insulation off, but what would be the best part to take off? My current thought is that is the top of the smoke box as it will create a way for the heat to escape as heat rises. I am also thinking of taking off the right side of the smoke box as I noticed an almost 20 degree difference in heat from one side to the other. Or... alternatively I can put a water pan in the bottom to creat a heat sink and also add water vapor to the smoke box. I am stuck between these options. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[mike243]

why not use less charcoal as that's 1 of the big benefits of insulation? nothing sez you have to use a set amount ,also air control by shutting the intake air down will drop the temps.

 

[fivetricks]

Yep, I'd use less as well. My drum smoker only needs about 6-7 coals lit t(using minion) to hold 225-250.

 

[daveomak]

PTF, morning.... Well, I looked for pictures of your smoker and could not find any showing the air inlets on the Fire Box...
So, I'll diagram a solution...


Above is a picture of the solution... The lower adjustment damper controls the air to the fire... You can adjust the BTU's by opening and closing the "Pie damper"...
The upper pie damper adjust the "Flow through" air supply... That adjustment moves heat through the Cook Chamber by adding outside air... The outside air will cool the CC and make for more uniform temps... also, the extra air will help consume creosote in the FB making for better tasting food...
Adjusting the 2 inlets will take some learning... It's a touchy/feely thing...
Let us know how well it works...
Dave

Can you add a picture or 3 of the control end of the fire box.....

 

[drdon]

I think it would be hard to over insulate a smoker. Seems like you just made it super efficient. Mr daveomak has your back. He gets into the technical stuff very well. Perhaps a little less fuel and a little more air is all you need. Good luck.

 

[PassTheFlux]

Ok I can definitely try less charcoal, just found it odd that with only 20 lit coals it was so high.

My smoker only has the lower damper on the firebox and I typically keep it 3/4 to 8/10 closed as it is running so hot, and keep the damper on the smoke box 3/4 closed. I got this pic that shows where it is, as I don’t have any other pics right now.

 

[daveomak]

The upper air inlet should solve your temp problems.... Install it directly across from the FB/CC opening so the air from it does NOT add fresh air to the fire....
AND... run your smoker with the exhaust wide open....

 

[daveomak]

Also, only light about 6-8 briquettes to add to your pile of fresh briquettes... Leave the upper air inlet wide open and slowly adjust the lower air inlet.... with the exhaust wide open...
Once you get it adjusted close to what you want, wait 15 minutes or so to readjust the lower air inlet... It takes time for everything to come to temp and stabilize..
When you get it running and are happy, the adjustment should be the same, or close, the next smoke....
I do have some concerns.. that your exhaust is too small.. I think it is restricting air flow.. I would try a 3x3 exhaust to start....

 

[PassTheFlux]

So is closing it what is causing a lot of the extra heat? I am having a hard time following the full concept you are explaining. I thought by closing both it was restricting airflow therefore reducing the heat. What is a good way to reduce heat through the use of dampers and exhausts? Again thanks for all the info, I love learning how to do this better.

I will look into adding a secondary dampener higher on the smoke box for my next smoke. Thanks for the tips!

 

[daveomak]

If you have a step drill.. they work well for drilling in thin metal... Get one that will drill ~7/8" hole... Drill one as a test... then a 2nd... then a 3rd... equal space them so you are ready to add a slide gate to cover... Leave about 120% + gap between the holes.. (holes x 1.2 to determine the gap) Doing that, when the slide gate is full open holes, the holes in the slide gate will not be over the adjoining holes...

 

[ammaturesmoker]

Get another smoker and save this one for Winter.

 

[Bearcarver]

I'm in with all the guys saying "Use less Charcoal".
Definitely don't remove insulation.

Bear

 

[ammaturesmoker]

Why the charcoal....you have an offset....take advantage of the way better flavor of wood splits!! Just stay away from mesquite...that stuff is ass!

 

[PassTheFlux]

It is a really small fire box, have no idea how I could get elf that small

 

[wimpy69]

Went with this on my wide body after reviewing and doing the math dave provided--2X 1" black nipples w/conduit lock nuts. Also opened up my chimney to 4" round and can really dial in temps without going thru alot of fuel but keeping a good bed of hots. When the racks are full it seems to still draw sufficiently with the 4". Pre heated splits (1 1/4"+x6") catch quicker and burn cleaner with the upper air vents also. Dave has alot of good info on subject.

 

[daveomak]

Wimpy, morning... I'm gonna use your picture to show others what can be done..
Did you mount the slide gate inside the FB ?? Looks really clean... And the upper air caps look like something that comes on my Miller Lite 16 oz. cans... I like it.....

 

[wimpy69]

Sure, be my guest. Slide gate is designed inside but manufacturing didn't allow for full closure so took a piece of 6061 t6 laid out openings for full coverage, removed material and flush riveted to stock piece. Replaced original hardware using springs for tension and allow easy movement when it heated up. Caps are 1"aluminium FOD caps used on aircraft fittings threaded onto 1" nipples. Have full port ball valves, but usaully runs good with one cap removed.

 

[daveomak]

6061 T6 is what my boat is made from... Duckworth...