Butcher block refinish?

  • Some of the links on this forum allow SMF, at no cost to you, to earn a small commission when you click through and make a purchase. Let me know if you have any questions about this.
SMF is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Timber II

Meat Mopper
Original poster
SMF Premier Member
Oct 15, 2023
Swamp east Missouri
Have a couple butcher blocks we have sitting on the kitchen counters just for show. We don’t cut on them really just for looks. I’m gonna sand them down and clean them up. Not sure what I should put on them. Don’t really wanna polly them….tung oil maybe? Whatcha think?


  • IMG_4953.jpeg
    113.2 KB · Views: 36
You should use a food grade product made for this application .
( edit : Mineral oil works just fine , and is cheaper )
I use Howard's cutting board oil , or Howard's Butcher block conditioner / oil .
The butcher block will add some color , and has food grade wax in it to fill gaps and pores . Helps to restore a surface with cuts and dings .
You can get either one at Lowe's or Home Depot . In the stain isle in the paint dept.

I also have the Watco posted above . Just be aware that it has a finish in it that cures hard after 72 hours . Stays shiny and slick after it cures . Not easy to touch up like the oil and wax .

I use the watco for spoons that will see a lot of moisture . I like the wax and oil for cutting boards .

This is the oil ,
I use the Butcher block with wax on lighter woods .
Last edited:
Don't really have any butcher blocks.
I just use the mineral oil on my pizza cutting board and knife handles.
I will look for the Howards.
  • Like
Reactions: Timber II
I don't either . It's made for the true end grain butcher blocks , but works good on face or edge grain stuff too . The beeswax adds some color , and fills any cracks .
I use regular on my wooden peel though .
glad I asked!
The walnut spoon is Howards board oil . The Kentucky Coffee tree spoon is the Watco mentioned above .
You can see the sheen , and it's hard after it cures . That coffee tree is a porous wood .
That's why I used the Watco . Might be a good choice for what you have if you're not using them to cut . In the same isle as the Howards oils .
Thanks again chop! I have a mini paddle I made for the wife’s stock pot,out of walnut and need to finish it as well!


  • IMG_4959.jpeg
    151.2 KB · Views: 26
Nice . I like that paddle . Use the board oil on that too .

Those boards need some attention . I'd sand them enough to get rid of all the dark spots .
Maybe start with 120 . Then 150 , and finish with 220 .
Then spritz with water and wipe it down and let it dry .
Then final sand again with the 220 .
That raises the grain , and re sanding knocks it down . That way it doesn't fuzz up the first time it gets wet after you re do it .
Once you do that , wipe the dust off of , and coat with board oil . Let it soak in for 10 minutes or so , then wipe off with a clean cotton rag . Wipe on as many coats as it needs .
  • Like
Reactions: Timber II
SmokingMeatForums.com is reader supported and as an Amazon Associate, we may earn commissions from qualifying purchases.

Hot Threads