Good choice on the primer. I have used that to paint galvanized brick lintels on several commercial construction projects. I think you are on the right track with the dilute ammonia prep. On new galvanized we would scrub with Dawn dish soap to remove any oils then hit it with white vinegar.
Barn tear down...Shed build pics.
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Been following and its looking good Keith.
A lot of work for one guy, and that is how I do most things also. No one
to yell at but yourself if too slow or done wrong.
Keep up the good work
, oh and watch out for the black thumb, I hear it only hurts for a couple months ( as I speak from experience )
David
A lot of work for one guy, and that is how I do most things also. No one
to yell at but yourself if too slow or done wrong.
Keep up the good work
, oh and watch out for the black thumb, I hear it only hurts for a couple months ( as I speak from experience )David
SherryT
Smoking Fanatic
Does that mean you're offering to clean and organize it for him? Now that you have yours done... maybe, I think lol!I'm experiencing BIG TIME shed envy right now...
Ryan
Thanks SherryT! Hopefully I will be installing the double doors tomorrow!I'm experiencing BIG TIME shed envy right now...
SherryT
Smoking Fanatic
LOL...not quite THAT much envy!
And no...I'm not done with mine yet. Dejunked (I wouldn't have thought THAT much stuff would have fit in a 10x12 building), built rolling tool carts, built a new rolling workbench, put up french cleats and built tool holders for said cleats, and I still have to tear out a USELESS small closet we added (I can reclaim 12 sf of floor space along the wall), build a lumber cart, under-counter cabs, and a flip cart for my planer and future spindle sander (which I'm getting started on today).
I'm not as "spunky" as I used to be, but I'm getting there!
Double doors are up!!! Man that was a job! Normally, you install the frame with the doors installed all as one piece, but no way I could do it that way for these doors. I had to order a frame and the door sill, then fit them to the door. Had to take the doors off so I could put the frame together, then install the frame and sill plumb, square, and flat. Could only use a bubble level for the face of the frame in and out of the wall. The door opening was fairly plumb and square, but on a bubble level it leaned to the right a little...about 1/2" at the top of the frame. Used a square and a long straight edge. But the diagonals are perfect! 110" both ways! I used a composite door frame kit. That composite material is much flimsier than wood, thus the long straight edge. Had to shim it in 7 spots on each side, and 6 on top. Really took my time making sure it was right, and it paid off when I hung the doors....perfect!
Ended up having to use some bolts between the door hinge screws to pull the wood tight. Having been through the flood of 2016, the wood expanded with the moisture and then contracted...a lot of cracks where the hinges attach. Good wood otherwise and the bolts hold compression around the screws. It's a shed.....better than buying new doors for $1200! I'm all about practical solutions.
I filled the cracks with gorilla glue and clamped it, then after the glue expanded, had to do some sanding, but the doors fit nicely now! Will work great for the shed.
Getting close to finishing. The double doors was the last major obstacle.
Ended up having to use some bolts between the door hinge screws to pull the wood tight. Having been through the flood of 2016, the wood expanded with the moisture and then contracted...a lot of cracks where the hinges attach. Good wood otherwise and the bolts hold compression around the screws. It's a shed.....better than buying new doors for $1200! I'm all about practical solutions.
I filled the cracks with gorilla glue and clamped it, then after the glue expanded, had to do some sanding, but the doors fit nicely now! Will work great for the shed.
Getting close to finishing. The double doors was the last major obstacle.
Will trim the doors and finish hanging the two small pieces of tin on each side tomorrow, then I can lock tools in the shed overnight.
I bought new hinges. I had no idea they made security hinges. These are such that you can't simply knock out the hinge pin in order to access the building. They were necessary because I installed the double doors to open to the outside. That is also a reason for the overhang over the double doors- to help keep rain out of the edge cracks between the door and the frame....
Last edited:
pineywoods
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...every cut, every board, every screw, nail, and bolt.....was done by me.Keith, that is really looking great! Even more so when it's taken into account all the help you had...or didn't have...
The doors are Masonite doors.....about $700 a pop per door new. No wonder they held up well after the flood. Foam filled. Top quality doors.
thanks guys!Keith, that is really looking great! Even more so when it's taken into account all the help you had...or didn't have...
Getting close now . Lookin' good .
One trick to the double doors is a string crossed corner to corner on the jamb . Makes an X in the opening .
Plumb one side ( high side of the floor )
Level the head
Then move the other hinge side in or out until the " X " just touches in the middle .
You can also push and pull the door slabs by shimming the hinges . Not the whole hinge , just one side or the other . Cocks the hinge in the mortise , and pulls or pushes the top or bottom of the door slab .
One trick to the double doors is a string crossed corner to corner on the jamb . Makes an X in the opening .
Plumb one side ( high side of the floor )
Level the head
Then move the other hinge side in or out until the " X " just touches in the middle .
You can also push and pull the door slabs by shimming the hinges . Not the whole hinge , just one side or the other . Cocks the hinge in the mortise , and pulls or pushes the top or bottom of the door slab .
Me either....cause the saw blade is about 1/8" so both would be 1/16" short! LOL!!!!Hell I wouldn’t be confident in making 2-6” long 2x4’s out of a 12” 2x4
I was also able to fix my mistake pulling the joist corners down when I tightened the banding on the anchors. I used a treated 1x8 along the bottom of the door for a trim piece. It had a straight edge so I used it as a level base for the outside edge of the door sill to sit on. This sill only contacts the floor on the outside and inside edges. When I screwed the sill down, It improved the fit a lot....
Double door trimmed and last pieces of wall tin are up.
Now to finish with the tin strips on the walls and the corner and eve flashing. Then prep/prime/paint....
Now to finish with the tin strips on the walls and the corner and eve flashing. Then prep/prime/paint....
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