Question on PID Controller

[dernektambura]

Tallbm Thanks for the like I appreciate it.

I have a habit of selling myself short. I worked for 15 years installing new equipment on yachts and I have also rewired my home. Which was inspected and passed so I guess if I would put my mind to it I can do it. MAYBE

Warren

Most important PID setup step is HYS (hysteresis) setup which is ON/OFF control action that turns the output ON or OFF based on the set point. Basically what it does, it monitoring upper and lower temperature range as set by ALM and SV...

 

[tallbm]

How are you tuning the PID ?
Auto or did you get some starter settings from someone?
In my field PID tuning is where all the fun is. I can't get anyone else to learn how to tune them. Most they will do is check cal and adjust the offset. And only one guy has done offsets so far.

Yeah this is going to be the tough part. I will be doing Autotune 1st and then trial an error tuning from the autotune settings. I have no MyPIN tunings for an MES40 smoker :(

Since all PIDs are different with their algorithms I'm sure I'll be pulling my hair out for a little while as I get it dialed in hahaha

Tallbm Thanks for the like I appreciate it.

I have a habit of selling myself short. I worked for 15 years installing new equipment on yachts and I have also rewired my home. Which was inspected and passed so I guess if I would put my mind to it I can do it. MAYBE

Warren

Oh yeah then you wouldn't have any problem with this once you put your mind to it and digest it a bit more. You just have to take it 1 bit a time but it's quite a bit to tackle at once with the fabrication on the box, the arrangement of all the parts, and then wiring it all properly.

Then comes the tuning. Another nice thing about the Auber's is guys have posted their tuning numbers which is a HUGE help lol

 

[dernektambura]

Lets make it simple....
If you have option on your PID to do manual setting then forget about auto tuning... It doesn't work anyway...
Set your cooking temp SV...set your alarm AL1 to the temp you don't wanna go above and set your HYS how much temp can fluctuate between ON and OFF... Everything else keep at factory setting..
3 settings you should care about:
SV.....Al1....and HYS...
Trust me... I take care of big billet furnace in steel rolling plant... Tens of high sophisticated motorized PIDs to take care off..
If you have any questions I will walk you trough the setup step by step... All PIDs work on same principles... Except, there is also option to "ramp up" temp, for example: you wanna start with one temp setting and ramp it up at preset temp to get that crunchy skin on your leg of lamb... But then again, there is catch... To do that you will need extra source of heat to turn ON on top of that leg of lamb......many variables...

 

[cmayna]

I guess I'm a little confused........... If an Auber PID or other brand similar, is financially in a similar price and has equivalent features as compared to building your own, why not go with an Auber or similar prebuilt?
I mean why spend all the time, energy, and moola on this project if a satisfactory factory produced PID is already built? With a warranty?

 

[tallbm]

I guess I'm a little confused........... If an Auber PID or other brand similar, is financially in a similar price as compared to building your own, why not go with an Auber or similar?
I mean why spend all the time, energy, and moola on this project if a satisfactory factory produced PID is already built?

I saved $40 or so since I had most of the tools and ancillary parts lol. Was just being a cheapskate and it was an opportunity to use up some more of these components I have lying around :D

 

[tallbm]

HalfSmoked good news on my MYPIN T4 controller I built. Factory settings of P=3, I=210, and D=0 worked fine in my MES40.

I put the PID probe right in the center under the lowest rack and smoke from lowest rack up.
I have my remote thermometers measuring left/back and front/right of the lowest rack as well.
I had to adjust the offset a good amount so that the rack heat level was about average.

Airflow has a major impact on this and I was cooking with a pan, rack in the pan, and 22lbs of pork butts in the rack, so a different smoke would need different adjustments lol.

I did test the probe in boiling water and it was 5 degrees low so I know how it reads there.


In all I'm extremely pleased with the MYPIN TA4 and it's ease of use. Using a PID is still kind of a foreign and very technical user experience but this one is easier when keeping that in mind.

In all the test smoke was successful. The PID didn't need any P-I-D value tuning and the meat came out great!!!

 

[tallbm]

HalfSmoked good news on my MYPIN T4 controller I built. Factory settings of P=3, I=210, and D=0 worked fine in my MES40.

I put the PID probe right in the center under the lowest rack and smoke from lowest rack up.
I have my remote thermometers measuring left/back and front/right of the lowest rack as well.
I had to adjust the offset a good amount so that the rack heat level was about average.

Airflow has a major impact on this and I was cooking with a pan, rack in the pan, and 22lbs of pork butts in the rack, so a different smoke would need different adjustments lol.

I did test the probe in boiling water and it was 5 degrees low so I know how it reads there.


In all I'm extremely pleased with the MYPIN TA4 and it's ease of use. Using a PID is still kind of a foreign and very technical user experience but this one is easier when keeping that in mind.

In all the test smoke was successful. The PID didn't need any P-I-D value tuning and the meat came out great!!!

Oh BTW forgot to mention PID held within 1 degree either way of a 275F set temp!

 

[dernektambura]

Oh BTW forgot to mention PID held within 1 degree either way of a 275F set temp!

Just a note: it is NOT good idea to set PID to regulate temp for less than 10 - 15 deg... Reason: your heating element rapidly goes trough ON/OFF cycles, shortening life time of the heater...

 

[pushok2018]

I use a Auber PID controller with the MES40. Have never had a problem. Very accurate, etc. Way more expensive but for me, you get what you pay for.

Ditto on this. I use Auber PID with my TSM 30# electrical smoker for two years

If an Auber PID or other brand similar, is financially in a similar price and has equivalent features as compared to building your own, why not go with an Auber or similar prebuilt?

Absolutely agreed on this. At least, it worked for me....

 

[HalfSmoked]

Thanks everyone for your support.

Question tallbm did you build your box or buy it ready made?

Warren

 

[tallbm]

Thanks everyone for your support.

Question tallbm did you build your box or buy it ready made?

Warren

I built my complete controller.
I bought an aluminum project box enclosure, I didn't personally fabricate one if you are asking that. I DID do all the face plate cuts though which is the most difficult part of this whole thing once you understand the wiring.

My housing/enclosure/project box was just BARELY big enough for this build. Minimal dimensions you probably want for a size DIN 1/16 PID like mine are, 5.75in x 3.75in x 6.5in inch(W*H*L). Do not hesitate to go up multiple inches on each direction ESPECIALLY the length/depth of the whole thing.


I don't have a drill press and vise at home so did it all with hand tools like a hand held dremel, drill, tin snips, and plyers to hold the face plates. You can see how I scratched up a bit of the faces and would need to touch it up with black paint.

Also the more circle holes you can make the better. Rectangles and square holes are the devil to make precise. Finally you will need a Universal drill bit to drill holes big enough for things like the gable relief glands that hold the plug in/out plugs on the back of mine.

FYI, I learned a long time ago the cheap Chinese plug outlets you buy for these projects burn up and melt down in no time so I switched to cannibalizing 16AWG extension cords and using those cable relief glands, I also use the cord wiring for the guts so it's a great recycle job lol.
Best decision I could have made for those parts.
Also use a heavy duty automobile switch if wiring in an on/off switch for the same reasons of cheapo Chinese rocker switches melting down no matter what amperage they say they support.
In this build I used a 40Amp marine panel breaker switch because I know it holds up :D

Let me know if you have anymore questions about parts and such.