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I ran out of firestarters so I did what Tommy from Backyard BBQ on YT suggests. Folded up a paper towel, soaked it in canola oil and it worked well on my 560.
 
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I ran out of firestarters so I did what Tommy from Backyard BBQ on YT suggests. Folded up a paper towel, soaked it in canola oil and it worked well on my 560.
This is what I've been doing with my 800 since I got it in January. Mostly it's worked well. I've had a few times recently where I've had to use a 2nd paper towel, but I think it's been due to bad charcoal.
 
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Odd thing has happened. Last 2 cooks, my 1050 won't get past 500. Fan slows down right at 500 . Was trying to go to 600 and she just dies. Have over half full on charcoal
 
I would think a bad switch would cause the display to read "open".
All a door switch can do is report continuity or and "open" circuit to the processor.
Any sensor input that would cause the processor to alter the temp you selected should appear on the screen as an error.
I would send an email to Masterbuilt and describe the episode.
 
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I would think a bad switch would cause the display to read "open".
All a door switch can do is report continuity or and "open" circuit to the processor.
Any sensor input that would cause the processor to alter the temp you selected should appear on the screen as an error.
I would send an email to Masterbuilt and describe the episode.
You will not get an error message on the control panel. I had the same issue.
If you quickly press and release the switch 20 times or so it should start operating correctly.
 
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You will not get an error message on the control panel. I had the same issue.
If you quickly press and release the switch 20 times or so it should start operating correctly.

Have you had this issue the whole time or just with the recent update? Mines been acting up when it comes to going into higher temps. If I want to go from 375 to 600 it pretty much go to 500 and the fan will slow down then actually drop in temp from there. Only thing I can think of was it had an update not long ago.
 
the switches are nothing more than low voltage contactors. The circuit is either open or closed, there is no in between. open will 100% result in an error message on the display and prevent the fan from operating.

the fan not continuing to operate above 500° is not a faulty switch.

You have a P.I.D. problem.
 
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Have you had this issue the whole time or just with the recent update? Mines been acting up when it comes to going into higher temps. If I want to go from 375 to 600 it pretty much go to 500 and the fan will slow down then actually drop in temp from there. Only thing I can think of was it had an update not long ago.
This started with the update. I had only done low cooks till i noticed it on the past 2 high cooks. 1st time i thought it was just low fuel but that is not the case. The fan slows down and holds the temp at 500 when set over 500. Very annoying to say the least.
 
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People: Read the Fantastic Manual. In the very front pages under "Warnings and Important Safeguards" the section ends with these Safety Features:

Lid Switch – Prevents grill from overheating.
• If the set temperature is above 500°F (260°C) the controller will regulate the grill temperature to 500°F (260°C) when the grill lid is opened. Once the lid is closed the grill will return to the set temperature.
• If the set temperature is below 500°F (260°C) the controller will continue to regulate the grill at the set temperature when the grill lid is opened.
Hopper Switches – Reduces chimney effect when hopper is opened.
1. Hopper Lid Switch: The fan will stop when the hopper lid is opened. The fan will restart when the hopper lid is closed.
2. Hopper Ash Door Switch: The fan will stop when the hopper ash door is opened. The fan will restart when the hopper ash door is closed.


When these things happen, as described/promised, it's not an Error, it's been designed in. It's a feature (safety feature) not a bug. Don't expect the control system to call it an Error.
This thread has plenty of evidence that people are having switch trouble. They're probably not hermetic so smoke and creosote is building up in them. (My Wild Guess only.)

Now if your hopper lid and ash door are physically closed but your fans won't come on, you should expect the switches are stuck open. Twiddling with them 20 or 100 times may temporarily fix the issue but the real fix is to replace the switch. If your fans are kinda' working but your controller appears "stuck" at 450-500, then your Lid Switch is open. If your lid is physically closed, then the switch is bad and you can twiddle with it but you should replace it.

And yes, do this trouble-shooting for Masterbuilt, but insist they send you free replacement switches. Calling them "faulty interlocks" should get their attention.

Now a temporary "fix" is to jumper these interlock switches and thus disable what Masterbuilt clearly calls a Safety Feature. If you have parts on order, go ahead and take the chance; I'd do the same. But I wouldn't consider it a permanent solution.
 
People: Read the Fantastic Manual. In the very front pages under "Warnings and Important Safeguards" the section ends with these Safety Features:

Lid Switch – Prevents grill from overheating.
• If the set temperature is above 500°F (260°C) the controller will regulate the grill temperature to 500°F (260°C) when the grill lid is opened. Once the lid is closed the grill will return to the set temperature.
• If the set temperature is below 500°F (260°C) the controller will continue to regulate the grill at the set temperature when the grill lid is opened.
Hopper Switches – Reduces chimney effect when hopper is opened.
1. Hopper Lid Switch: The fan will stop when the hopper lid is opened. The fan will restart when the hopper lid is closed.
2. Hopper Ash Door Switch: The fan will stop when the hopper ash door is opened. The fan will restart when the hopper ash door is closed.


When these things happen, as described/promised, it's not an Error, it's been designed in. It's a feature (safety feature) not a bug. Don't expect the control system to call it an Error.
This thread has plenty of evidence that people are having switch trouble. They're probably not hermetic so smoke and creosote is building up in them. (My Wild Guess only.)

Now if your hopper lid and ash door are physically closed but your fans won't come on, you should expect the switches are stuck open. Twiddling with them 20 or 100 times may temporarily fix the issue but the real fix is to replace the switch. If your fans are kinda' working but your controller appears "stuck" at 450-500, then your Lid Switch is open. If your lid is physically closed, then the switch is bad and you can twiddle with it but you should replace it.

And yes, do this trouble-shooting for Masterbuilt, but insist they send you free replacement switches. Calling them "faulty interlocks" should get their attention.

Now a temporary "fix" is to jumper these interlock switches and thus disable what Masterbuilt clearly calls a Safety Feature. If you have parts on order, go ahead and take the chance; I'd do the same. But I wouldn't consider it a permanent solution.


You mean the manual was not meant to be used as a fire starter? :emoji_laughing:

This is good info thanks. It’s just odd it’s happening after an update must be a coincidence
 
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I'm still trying to figure out how to grill steaks at max temps when the processor limits temps to 500 with the door open?
Or do I not get to watch my steaks sizzle when max temp is reached?
I'm paranoid about letting the meat off the leash so to speak, what if a grease fire breaks out and I can't see it due to the lid being closed?
 
I'm still trying to figure out how to grill steaks at max temps when the processor limits temps to 500 with the door open?
Or do I not get to watch my steaks sizzle when max temp is reached?
I'm paranoid about letting the meat off the leash so to speak, what if a grease fire breaks out and I can't see it due to the lid being closed?

I see my gravity feed as a smoker. I've tried grilling on it, and I prefer my Kettles for grilling, both the 22 and 26" Kettle. The grease fire concern on the MB is real.

BTW, this past weekend I smoked a slab of whole spares on the MB560 and at same time, a slab on my stick burner. I then taste tested ( it should've been a blind test ) and while I prefer the stick burner results, the MB was right there close.
 
People: Read the Fantastic Manual. In the very front pages under "Warnings and Important Safeguards" the section ends with these Safety Features:

Lid Switch – Prevents grill from overheating.
• If the set temperature is above 500°F (260°C) the controller will regulate the grill temperature to 500°F (260°C) when the grill lid is opened. Once the lid is closed the grill will return to the set temperature.
• If the set temperature is below 500°F (260°C) the controller will continue to regulate the grill at the set temperature when the grill lid is opened.
Hopper Switches – Reduces chimney effect when hopper is opened.
1. Hopper Lid Switch: The fan will stop when the hopper lid is opened. The fan will restart when the hopper lid is closed.
2. Hopper Ash Door Switch: The fan will stop when the hopper ash door is opened. The fan will restart when the hopper ash door is closed.


When these things happen, as described/promised, it's not an Error, it's been designed in. It's a feature (safety feature) not a bug. Don't expect the control system to call it an Error.
This thread has plenty of evidence that people are having switch trouble. They're probably not hermetic so smoke and creosote is building up in them. (My Wild Guess only.)

Now if your hopper lid and ash door are physically closed but your fans won't come on, you should expect the switches are stuck open. Twiddling with them 20 or 100 times may temporarily fix the issue but the real fix is to replace the switch. If your fans are kinda' working but your controller appears "stuck" at 450-500, then your Lid Switch is open. If your lid is physically closed, then the switch is bad and you can twiddle with it but you should replace it.

And yes, do this trouble-shooting for Masterbuilt, but insist they send you free replacement switches. Calling them "faulty interlocks" should get their attention.

Now a temporary "fix" is to jumper these interlock switches and thus disable what Masterbuilt clearly calls a Safety Feature. If you have parts on order, go ahead and take the chance; I'd do the same. But I wouldn't consider it a permanent solution.
Exactly. I recommended fiddling with the switches as a temporary fix to help you get through the cook. I received a new Switch from Masterbuilt but have not put it in yet and not sure I will as long as I can easily remedy the problem. And using the contact cleaner between cooks has seemed to solve the problem.
 
I'm still trying to figure out how to grill steaks at max temps when the processor limits temps to 500 with the door open?
Or do I not get to watch my steaks sizzle when max temp is reached?
I'm paranoid about letting the meat off the leash so to speak, what if a grease fire breaks out and I can't see it due to the lid being closed?
FWIW.... I smoke mine at 225 until they reach an IT of 100. Remove from the grill and crank the heat up to 650. Resist the temptation to put them on early as you lose some heat as you open the lid. Cook on one side for a minute and a half then rotate for hash marks and repeat other side. Only takes about 3 minutes per side to reach 130-135 IT or adjust to your liking
Kosmos Q has a great MBGF steak video too
 
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FWIW.... I smoke mine at 225 until they reach an IT of 100. Remove from the grill and crank the heat up to 650. Resist the temptation to put them on early as you lose some heat as you open the lid. Cook on one side for a minute and a half then rotate for hash marks and repeat other side. Only takes about 3 minutes per side to reach 130-135 IT or adjust to your liking
Kosmos Q has a great MBGF steak video too
This is basically what I do also. At those high temps, the steak gets seared so quickly that the lid is only closed for a minute or two before you have to flip.

Also, to reduce grease fires, I clean the cook chamber beforehand anytime I'm going to go over 500 degrees. This makes a big difference. The only significant fire I've had was early on when I didn't clean between cooking a pork shoulder (without a drip pan) and reverse searing some steaks.
 
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