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Masterbuilt Gravity Feed

kennnyp1

Newbie
3
5
Joined Jun 7, 2021
SmokinOkie provided an Amazon link to a backpack grill. I ordered it and this is what it looks like in the ash bin. Unfortunately, I only ever have time to smoke on the weekend, but I figured I would share what it looks like so far in case anyone is interested. The grate feels well built and seems sturdy in the bin. I have high hopes that using worldbfreebase's suggestion of putting some briquettes under this grate will let me consistently smoke some pieces in the bin.
PXL_20210610_015115007.jpg
PXL_20210610_015109671.jpg
 

Chasdev

Smoking Fanatic
605
412
Joined Jan 18, 2020
I place wood in the ash bin and within a 20 minutes of starting the charcoal there's enough lit coal pieces falling into the bin to light the wood and produce tons of good smoke.
After the cooker has been running an hour or more, the ash bin has a layer of glowing coals and any wood I place on them jumps to flames and in fact burns out pretty quickly, so I add more wood once an hour.
I also add wood to the charcoal when I load the gravity chamber and it handles it just fine.
 

Smokin Okie

Smoking Fanatic
336
172
Joined Jun 27, 2018
No haven't really noticed a difference.
I always use the pan/rack for chops, steaks then move them to the grates for searing. Use them for ribs and brisket entire cook
Just to be clear, you use the pan as a drip pan AND the rack ? And then which grate do you put the pan/rack on ?

I used the pan for the first time today, but I put the pan on the bottom grate without the rack. Then put baby back ribs on the middle grate.

I put a TelTru in the hood and took out that Fisher Price gauge. I ran the cooker at 275* but the TelTru only read 210*. I took the pan off the bottom grate and out of the cooker , and the middle grate jumped up to 270*.
 

912smoker

Smoking Fanatic
SMF Premier Member
893
498
Joined Nov 29, 2020
Just to be clear, you use the pan as a drip pan AND the rack ? And then which grate do you put the pan/rack on ?

I used the pan for the first time today, but I put the pan on the bottom grate without the rack. Then put baby back ribs on the middle grate.

I put a TelTru in the hood and took out that Fisher Price gauge. I ran the cooker at 275* but the TelTru only read 210*. I took the pan off the bottom grate and out of the cooker , and the middle grate jumped up to 270*.
Yes I line the pan in foil for easy cleanup of grease/drippings. Usually put pan/tack on the bottom grate.
 

Smokin Okie

Smoking Fanatic
336
172
Joined Jun 27, 2018
Yes I line the pan in foil for easy cleanup of grease/drippings. Usually put pan/tack on the bottom grate.
Yesterday, I replaced the pan with a smaller drip pan , 9 X 13 and 2 " high, and the temp on the upper grate climbed to nearer the set temp.

I think that larger pan really disrupts the air flow. I should've checked the top grate and see how that larger pan effects that level.
 

Smokin Okie

Smoking Fanatic
336
172
Joined Jun 27, 2018
Oh yeah a use a 2nd therm at grate level and adjust the temp to compensate
I just read another post of yours, and you have the 1050 , right ? That would make a large diff in using that drip pan. On the 560, it almost covers the entire lower grate.
 

912smoker

Smoking Fanatic
SMF Premier Member
893
498
Joined Nov 29, 2020
That's right so I can only speak in terms of the 1050. I would still use the 2nd rack with a smaller pan underneath if possible to catch drippins
 
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deeve5603

Newbie
4
1
Joined Jun 13, 2021
Hello All, I am reading through this thread after buying a 1050 V2 Sunday and was very excited to try out this smoker/grill combo as it would replace my Pit Barrel Cooker and Weber 22. It seems like the best of both worlds with the gravity fan powered charcoal and heat control. Unfortunately, right off the bat I started having problems with the 1050 in the area of the door switch not working and a grease leak around the bracket that holds the drip pan. Upon inspection I found that there was at least one rivet missing that holds the pan bracket on adding to an already prevalent problem area. I posted on the FB group and found that it is not uncommon to have those problems.

I am a but discouraged that an $799 grill is having those types of problems and known issues that need fixes before really being used. I am encouraged that they can be fixed, but am bummed its even happening in the first place. I think I may return this one and either get a refund or exchange. Since I like the concept so much, are there other brands that accomplish the same thing with better quality? I have seen the Char-Griller, but that appears to have its own issues. Seems that the price point is not considered expensive or an area where quality is better.

I hope I dont offend any of the users who are happy with what they have as if I didn't have these problems before even really cooking anything I would be quite happy as well.

THanks!
Dave
 

912smoker

Smoking Fanatic
SMF Premier Member
893
498
Joined Nov 29, 2020
Certainly understand and hate that you're having trouble with your new MB. Their online C/S will send you a new switch if you file a warranty claim.
I received mine last week after filing a claim the previous week. If you manually push the switch 20 times or so it should start working. Then I spray with contact cleaner between cooks.
Sorry l don't have a solution for the missing rivet other than a return/exchange. Sounds like you may have a Monday am assembly problem !
 

worldbfreebase

Smoke Blower
78
56
Joined May 13, 2020
pop a couple rivets in it, make sure the wire connections are good and correctly connected. If it is a bad contactor switch, you could try spraying some contact cleaner or wd40 in it. If that doesn't do it, file a warranty claim and in the meantime, take it out and tape the connectors together to bypass it.
 

912smoker

Smoking Fanatic
SMF Premier Member
893
498
Joined Nov 29, 2020
Yep I'm a DIYer and I would fix it myself with a rivet or bolt. And the suggestions above should remedy the switch issues. I'll just keep my new one for a spare ! And they sent a bag of
MB lump charcoal !
 

Chasdev

Smoking Fanatic
605
412
Joined Jan 18, 2020
Best plan is to sip the wires below the switch and tie them together, the ECU will think the door is always shut and run as normal.
You can replace the switch and cook with it while you wait for a new switch, OR just leave it shunted and cook on like I did.
I have new switches in a box on the shelf.
 

worldbfreebase

Smoke Blower
78
56
Joined May 13, 2020
DONT SNIP THE WIRES! They have a female connector on them. Take the two screws out remove the wire connections and tape them together until you get a new switch.
 

deeve5603

Newbie
4
1
Joined Jun 13, 2021
The switch is something I am not too concerned about. There are a couple of ways to deal with it. The silly leak due to poor construction is something else. The other part is it is such a heavy hunk of metal it is not easy to load into the truck.
 

worldbfreebase

Smoke Blower
78
56
Joined May 13, 2020
I get it that some people are not handy and don't have the tools, and that is o.k. it really is. But for God's sake, it is a standard 1/8" rivet that any man worth his nuts at least has a friend that can pop one in there in about 4 seconds.
 

deeve5603

Newbie
4
1
Joined Jun 13, 2021
Oh no doubt. I am handy enough and own a rivet gun. For me it is more the point I suppose. It's been a long time since I have paid for something this expensive and been this unimpressed with the quality. I expected more.

I looked some more and noticed that the rivets are indeed the problem. They are all there, so that's good I guess. It's the choice of fasteners that is the problem. One has the middle missing and I can see the storage rack below, which leads to the drips. Not a good design. I've mentioned that enough though. It is what it is and I can't change that. I can either fix it right, which I shouldn't have to do, or get rid of it and move on.
I do appreciate this thread and the contributors to it.
Thanks.
 

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