Masterbuilt electric project

[cmayna]

Looks very promising. Let us know how it goes

 

[Ringer]

Apparently this smoker has found a place in my heart.

I felt compelled to use some scrap wood I had laying around to build a decent stand for it. 36 inches tall puts the smoker at eye level for me. I still haven't fired it up since the last round of mods. Hopefully soon.

 

[zwiller]

Happened to check this thread out. Getting serious about an Auber now. Also, I have my mailbox directly attached to my smoker and from trial and error I found I needed much larger holes on the bottom for better results. For cold smoking I need to put the tray inside the smoker tho or no draft. Might steal the ammo box idea too!

 

[Ringer]

Happened to check this thread out. Getting serious about an Auber now. Also, I have my mailbox directly attached to my smoker and from trial and error I found I needed much larger holes on the bottom for better results. For cold smoking I need to put the tray inside the smoker tho or no draft. Might steal the ammo box idea too!

How large did you go with your holes on the bottom?

I put 6 - 1/4 inch holes in mine.

You won't regret an auber at all. It brought this thing back to life and now it is slowly becoming one of my favorite smokers.

 

[zwiller]

I was real scientific at first and did math for it but later I just started grabbing bits and going nuts LOL. I think a bit bigger than 1/4" but would need to measure. WRT the Auber. Won't lie, I'd rather have a Smokin It but would rather save $1000 and get similar performance. Tempted to go wifi and I am not huge gadget guy but lots of good features for that extra $100.

 

[Ringer]

I was real scientific at first and did math for it but later I just started grabbing bits and going nuts LOL. I think a bit bigger than 1/4" but would need to measure. WRT the Auber. Won't lie, I'd rather have a Smokin It but would rather save $1000 and get similar performance. Tempted to go wifi and I am not huge gadget guy but lots of good features for that extra $100.

I went wifi to keep from having to use the wierdo interface. It's clunky at best. Lots of guys use it just fine but the wifi model puts it all clearly labeled in an app. I also like not having to stop what I'm doing to check Temps.

It does disconnect every now and then but I just restart the app and all is well.

If I had it to do over, I'd still go wifi.

 

[zwiller]

I went wifi to keep from having to use the wierdo interface. It's clunky at best. Lots of guys use it just fine but the wifi model puts it all clearly labeled in an app. I also like not having to stop what I'm doing to check Temps.

It does disconnect every now and then but I just restart the app and all is well.

If I had it to do over, I'd still go wifi.

MAN, I was hoping the wifi would be solid by now. Does it lose the history data when it disconnects? Might be dealbreaker for me. You may have posted it but I forgot, where did you get the ammo box? 50ca right?

 

[Ringer]

MAN, I was hoping the wifi would be solid by now. Does it lose the history data when it disconnects? Might be dealbreaker for me. You may have posted it but I forgot, where did you get the ammo box? 50ca right?

It didn't lose history with me, just restart the app and all is well. It actually may have been my fault.

So you can get the 50 cal ammo cans at harbour freight on sale for $12. I think $18 is the normal price. This one came from spoetsmans warehouse.

 

[tallbm]

How large did you go with your holes on the bottom?

I put 6 - 1/4 inch holes in mine.

You won't regret an auber at all. It brought this thing back to life and now it is slowly becoming one of my favorite smokers.

Oh yes a PID smoker grows on you quickly. Just wait until you have worked all the kinks out of your mailbox mod. Your system will just continue to impress you.

FYI, I wired in a safety rollout limit switch that has a cut-off threshold of 354F just so I could do 325F poultry smokes and get birds with edible and often crispy skin. It's the only time I crank it up that high and the smokes/cookes never exceed 4 hours. The insulation isn't really rated to withstand long running operating temps that high but for some chickens or a turkey I do it. All other smokes, never more than 275F from me.

This is not for everyone and especially not for those who do not monitor their systems well. Just explaining this because my smoker can do ANY smoke out there. Cold smoking with no heat, to sausage/bacon/jerky, to normal ribs/pork butt/brisket, to skin on chicken and turkey :)

There are no limits on my set up other than prolonged really hot smokes (300F+ for many hours). So I can basically do it all and do it all with precision :)

 

[zwiller]

That's encouraging. I got an Inkbird wifi remote therm setup and was funky BUT cheap so... Was hoping HF, one in my town.

 

[dogwalker]

I'm *really* challenged when it comes to electronics (I'm a software developer, but hardware kills me - well, let's hope not literally), but this is interesting. I have an old 40" MES 20070311 that works great, except I keep having to fix the connectors every few months, even though I've tried the high temperature ones. I've tried soldering, etc, but must be doing it wrong. I've been considering replacing the whole smoker with either another electric or one of the egg type grills/smokers.

Well, now a friend who's much better at this kind of thing than I am is going to come over to help me look at it. If we're going to do this anyway, maybe we should try to tackle the PID. So, is the PID solely to hold temperatures better or can it also help with this problem of the connectors?

thanks!

 

[Ringer]

I'm *really* challenged when it comes to electronics (I'm a software developer, but hardware kills me - well, let's hope not literally), but this is interesting. I have an old 40" MES 20070311 that works great, except I keep having to fix the connectors every few months, even though I've tried the high temperature ones. I've tried soldering, etc, but must be doing it wrong. I've been considering replacing the whole smoker with either another electric or one of the egg type grills/smokers.

Well, now a friend who's much better at this kind of thing than I am is going to come over to help me look at it. If we're going to do this anyway, maybe we should try to tackle the PID. So, is the PID solely to hold temperatures better or can it also help with this problem of the connectors?

thanks!

The pid is for more stable temp control and programming variable temp cooks.

It won't help with any physical connections but some of the others in this thread probably can. tallbm

 

[zwiller]

Oh yes a PID smoker grows on you quickly. Just wait until you have worked all the kinks out of your mailbox mod. Your system will just continue to impress you.

FYI, I wired in a safety rollout limit switch that has a cut-off threshold of 354F just so I could do 325F poultry smokes and get birds with edible and often crispy skin. It's the only time I crank it up that high and the smokes/cookes never exceed 4 hours. The insulation isn't really rated to withstand long running operating temps that high but for some chickens or a turkey I do it. All other smokes, never more than 275F from me.

This is not for everyone and especially not for those who do not monitor their systems well. Just explaining this because my smoker can do ANY smoke out there. Cold smoking with no heat, to sausage/bacon/jerky, to normal ribs/pork butt/brisket, to skin on chicken and turkey :)

There are no limits on my set up other than prolonged really hot smokes (300F+ for many hours). So I can basically do it all and do it all with precision :)

I forgot just how cheap it is to DIY for PID. HECK YEAH doing 325F. I ran jerk chicken on my gas grill at around 325F with a tube and was the best chicken I ever did. I like the simplicity of the Auber being PNP but that money can go towards a Smokin It (the dream).

 

[tallbm]

I'm *really* challenged when it comes to electronics (I'm a software developer, but hardware kills me - well, let's hope not literally), but this is interesting. I have an old 40" MES 20070311 that works great, except I keep having to fix the connectors every few months, even though I've tried the high temperature ones. I've tried soldering, etc, but must be doing it wrong. I've been considering replacing the whole smoker with either another electric or one of the egg type grills/smokers.

Well, now a friend who's much better at this kind of thing than I am is going to come over to help me look at it. If we're going to do this anyway, maybe we should try to tackle the PID. So, is the PID solely to hold temperatures better or can it also help with this problem of the connectors?

thanks!

I've had great luck using hi-temp supco connectors and heat shrink wrap insullation to keep my connectors from corroding all to hell.




You could also RTV hi temp silicon over the connectors to keep all the moisture and elements off of them but that's up to you.

I also THINK the heating element spades have a whole through them if you wanted to use something very heavy duty to attach the wire to them. Something more like the design of a terminal or amplifier block screw (and a matching nut). Something like this but of appropriate size:

Those screws are nickel plated steel so they should be very heat and weather resistant. I would still insulation wrap or RTV them to be safe but that much real, plated, and thick metal should fasten a wire to your heating element spades and not wear out for a long time to come under normal circumstances :)

I hope this info helps :)

 

[zwiller]

Agree. I think rtv is a great idea since I suspect galvanic corrosion is the issue. Heat shrink could also work but should be waterproof type. Also maybe caulk the cover to prevent moisture getting in there in the first place.

 

[dogwalker]

Thanks, guys, for the links and suggestions! And to the person who mentioned 325 degrees, I didn't realize that these PIDs will let us exceed 275, that would be nice for chicken!

Thanks again!

 

[Bearcarver]

Thanks, guys, for the links and suggestions! And to the person who mentioned 325 degrees, I didn't realize that these PIDs will let us exceed 275, that would be nice for chicken!

Thanks again!

I wouldn't go over 325°.
I think it was about 331° that I ran into a Crinkling Insulation Problem, between the interior walls, with my MES 40. That's why they have a limit on the stock controls of 275°.

Bear

 

[tallbm]

Thanks, guys, for the links and suggestions! And to the person who mentioned 325 degrees, I didn't realize that these PIDs will let us exceed 275, that would be nice for chicken!

Thanks again!

Yeah it is nice but only for those that watch what they are doing. The PID will go up super high, it doesn't care what it is controlling. It's the MES that has the limitation not the PID :)

I would follow Bear's advice greatly when it comes to the temps you take your MES to with a PID.

I run a TON of probes measuring the smoker temp in multiple areas as well as the meat temps.
I am also mindful of not trying to overstress my MES so I only do that with faster poultry smokes.
Finally, I walk my temp up to 325F by starting at like 310F and letting it overshoot on initial heat up and then up to 325F so it doesn't do a massive overshoot over 325F.

Turkey's are already on sale for $0.99/lb here so I will be doing some soon. Target had Butterball turkeys at that price and people go nuts over them. I just get any old turkey brand and make great turkey but might have to grab me a butterball. I'm kind of waiting for the $0.49/lb and $0.29/lb deals to roll in to score a few turkeys though :)

 

[zwiller]

I looked at a DIY PID controller that went to 1300C (2372F) so how's that for hot and fast? When I ran that jerk chicken I did not even need an hour at 325F so I am not worried too much but duly noted that 325F exceeds MB recommendations.

 

[tallbm]

I looked at a DIY PID controller that went to 1300C (2372F) so how's that for hot and fast? When I ran that jerk chicken I did not even need an hour at 325F so I am not worried too much but duly noted that 325F exceeds MB recommendations.

I have a strong hunch that when a stock MES hits 275F at the crappy sensor they install that the area around the element at bottom and around lowest rack of the MES is actually closer to 325F or so. Also their cut off switch is a 305F one so by the time it senses 305F then I'm sure the bottom and area around the element is above 325F.

I wouldn't go on an exercise to find out though. I take Bear's word on what his readings were and when the crackling started. I'm also thinking that with the PID controlling the heating element with a pulse that once the temp is reached the element is going full blast. Just pulsing for a few seconds to hit and hold temp never even turning red hot.
Where the stock MES goes full blast and cycles on and off so if it was getting really hot that element would be red hot and going full bore.

So understanding a bit of this behavior also helps in knowing how NOT to ruin the MES if attempting a 325F smoke in it like I do.

Just more knowledge to keep in the back of your head :)

If knowledge and understanding is not someone's strong suite then I would recommend to them not to attempt this at all hahaha :D