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Masterbuilt electric project

cmayna

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I assume the vent at the top of the smoker was fully open?

Regarding a stack on top as you previously asked, I really don't think it is needed unless you were considering cold smoking (heat turned off).

When you installed the AMNPS in the ammo box, was the lit pellets near the damper or on the opposite end ? Just doesn't sound like enough air is getting to the pellets.
 

Ringer

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I assume the vent at the top of the smoker was fully open?

Regarding a stack on top as you previously asked, I really don't think it is needed unless you were considering cold smoking (heat turned off).

When you installed the AMNPS in the ammo box, was the lit pellets near the damper or on the opposite end ? Just doesn't sound like enough air is getting to the pellets.
The top damper is fully open. I placed the lit end of the tray near the damper. It's like the air isn't flowing at all or backwards even. The chip dump is fully removed.

The damper is to the right of the tray in the attached picture.

I will seal around the box today but I'm not sure if that will help any.
 

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cmayna

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Still feel holes are needed thru the bottom. Hopefully others will chime in.
 

dr k

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The airflow in your set up takes the path of least resistance from the damper to the chip loader hole, diagonally across part of the tray. That's why the mailbox with all air coming in through the door hinge or holes in the door, across the elevated amnps so air goes under over the pellets to the 3" hole in the top rear of the mailbox. I plugged all corners and mounting holes in the bottom of the box except the two pencil holes closest to the door and I drilled a pencil sized hole between the two. I plugged the bottom grease drain hole and foiled over the hole in the bottom drip pan. All incoming air passes the pellets and the lit edge of the amnps is right above the three holes. Plenty of air comes in at the hinge and each row has its own vent below with no holes in the door. I was going to add holes in the door if necessary but wasn't needed. I made a rack to elevate the amnps. Some use binder clips on each corner or weld bolts for legs. All pellets burn to white ash no black pellets left behind.
20170911_132126.jpg

CAM00744.jpg

20200520_111445.jpg


This was before I drilled the middle hole in the bottom. I rarely use three rows of pellets so I screw a botlt from under the mailbox to plug the right side hole so more air at the two holes to the left. You can rotate the tray every 3-4 hours after the burn turns the corner so the lit pellets are towards the door and burn with the airflow, optional.
20170503_093742.jpg

CAM00727.jpg
 

Ringer

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The airflow in your set up takes the path of least resistance from the damper to the chip loader hole, diagonally across part of the tray. That's why the mailbox with all air coming in through the door hinge or holes in the door, across the elevated amnps so air goes under over the pellets to the 3" hole in the top rear of the mailbox. I plugged all corners and mounting holes in the bottom of the box except the two pencil holes closest to the door and I drilled a pencil sized hole between the two. I plugged the bottom grease drain hole and foiled over the hole in the bottom drip pan. All incoming air passes the pellets and the lit edge of the amnps is right above the three holes. Plenty of air comes in at the hinge and each row has its own vent below with no holes in the door. I was going to add holes in the door if necessary but wasn't needed. I made a rack to elevate the amnps. Some use binder clips on each corner or weld bolts for legs. All pellets burn to white ash no black pellets left behind.
View attachment 515205
View attachment 515206
View attachment 515207

This was before I drilled the middle hole in the bottom. I rarely use three rows of pellets so I screw a botlt from under the mailbox to plug the right side hole so more air at the two holes to the left. You can rotate the tray every 3-4 hours after the burn turns the corner so the lit pellets are towards the door and burn with the airflow, optional.
View attachment 515208
View attachment 515209
So do I just need do elevate my tray?
 

cmayna

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I have my tray elevated just like what DaveOmak and others have done. Since you don't have such height to play with as I have using a regular size mailbox, some binder clips acting as legs would not hurt. I still don't think that it will resolve your issue. To me, you still need holes in the bottom panel. If you do install the holes and find out they weren't needed, you can always cover the holes with a thin piece of aluminum sheeting.
Here’s a pic of one of my elevated amnps’s

31E54A21-501E-4FA4-A1E8-E298F8A0DBDA.jpeg
 
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tallbm

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+1 for holes in the bottom. I would wager that holes in the bottom mean you don't have to lift the AMNPS since air is coming right from below it but it will be a test and tweak kind of thing.

I wonder if the vent on the bottom would have been the way to go. You are the Guinea pig for this build so we are all going to learn from your tweaks and what works :)
 

Ringer

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+1 for holes in the bottom. I would wager that holes in the bottom mean you don't have to lift the AMNPS since air is coming right from below it but it will be a test and tweak kind of thing.

I wonder if the vent on the bottom would have been the way to go. You are the Guinea pig for this build so we are all going to learn from your tweaks and what works :)
I did notice that there was virtually no seal going around the box where it fits to the cabinet.

The first thing I did was to seal it with a good rtv silicone.

I may do a test burn later tonight to see if that helped any.

I'm willing to bet that you guys are right on target with the vent needing to be on the bottom.

I will elevate the tray before testing.

If that does not resolve it, I will move the damper to the bottom of the box and cover the previous hole as you guys have suggested.

I will report back with a solution or more questions...lol
 

tallbm

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I did notice that there was virtually no seal going around the box where it fits to the cabinet.

The first thing I did was to seal it with a good rtv silicone.

I may do a test burn later tonight to see if that helped any.

I'm willing to bet that you guys are right on target with the vent needing to be on the bottom.

I will elevate the tray before testing.

If that does not resolve it, I will move the damper to the bottom of the box and cover the previous hole as you guys have suggested.

I will report back with a solution or more questions...lol
I am positive you will solve the problem. This is just the tinkering that has to happen but it will solve a lot of issues for anyone doing a mailbox mod like yours in the future.

Also here's a pro-tip. Keep a pair of long all metal tongs out there on top of the box. If you have a pellet flame up situation you will need the tongs to remove the flaming AMNPS. I've had a few flame ups randomly happy (gusts of wind out of nowhere) and being able to remove the pellets is mandatory. My mailbox mod is modular and I just put on an oven mitt and grab it and move it to the concreate porch so it can burn out without overheating my smoker :)

A pair of long metal tongs would all you to do the same kind of thing once you open your ammo can.
 

Ringer

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I am positive you will solve the problem. This is just the tinkering that has to happen but it will solve a lot of issues for anyone doing a mailbox mod like yours in the future.

Also here's a pro-tip. Keep a pair of long all metal tongs out there on top of the box. If you have a pellet flame up situation you will need the tongs to remove the flaming AMNPS. I've had a few flame ups randomly happy (gusts of wind out of nowhere) and being able to remove the pellets is mandatory. My mailbox mod is modular and I just put on an oven mitt and grab it and move it to the concreate porch so it can burn out without overheating my smoker :)

A pair of long metal tongs would all you to do the same kind of thing once you open your ammo can.
Ok so I went ahead and did the seal up with rtv and elevated the tray 2.5 inches. There is actually embossing on the side of the mes that makes for a very uneven surface and ammo cans aren't exactly flat either.

It is now directly in the airflow path.

That being said, I want to give the rtv time to cure so it may be tomorrow before I do a test smoke. I have a rack of dinos that are begging to be cooked.

If that doesn't do it then I'll relocate the ammo box damper.

Here are some pics for those that run into something similar.
 

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normanaj

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Your "mailbox" mod basically is to close to the MES and on the same level as the heating element.The smoke has nowhere to go but pile up in the ammo can.

Get a length of 3" aluminum dryer hose and put your ammo can(aka mailbox) underneath the MES and you will be golden.
 

Ringer

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Your "mailbox" mod basically is to close to the MES and on the same level as the heating element.The smoke has nowhere to go but pile up in the ammo can.

Get a length of 3" aluminum dryer hose and put your ammo can(aka mailbox) underneath the MES and you will be golden.
So short of moving the can l, there isn't anything I can do to create the draw needed to move the smothe into the cabinet?
 

tallbm

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So short of moving the can l, there isn't anything I can do to create the draw needed to move the smothe into the cabinet?
Well there is the use of a stack but you'll know how things behave here soon when you run your test.

I wouldn't fret, this is a solvable problem. It will just take a few iterations of tinkering to sort it out :)
 

Ringer

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Well there is the use of a stack but you'll know how things behave here soon when you run your test.

I wouldn't fret, this is a solvable problem. It will just take a few iterations of tinkering to sort it out :)
Well, my curiosity over rode my ability to let the rtv cure for 24 hrs. I decided I'd better test it before reconfiguring it all.

Results: with the ammo can damper fully open, I get a puff of smoke backfire every now and then. Smoke comes out of the cabinet.

With it half closed, I get no backfire smoke and smoke comes out the cabinet damper as it is supposed to. It's not alot but that's good.

When I open the ammo can door, smoke pours out so it has to be going somewhere. I'd say it's much better off.

I may still open up the cabinet damper lid by means of a dremel or just removing it.

What I won't know for a while is will my pellets stay lit.

 

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cmayna

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Assuming your video is showing your smoker's exhaust vent, how far down from the top is it located? How does the smoke inside, above the vent, get out?

More job security-LOL Actually my question is directed more towards Masterbuilt.
 

Ringer

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Assuming your video is showing your smoker's exhaust vent, how far down from the top is it located? How does the smoke inside, above the vent, get out?

More job security-LOL Actually my question is directed more towards Masterbuilt.
I'd say it's roughly 4 inches or so from the roof.

Think I should relocate it?
 

cmayna

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4" is not that bad, but maybe put it on your "items to address later" list. Maybe ask for a hole saw from Santa?
 

Ringer

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4" is not that bad, but maybe put it on your "items to address later" list. Maybe ask for a hole saw from Santa?
I like that idea. When I do that I'll probably
make a stack out of it.
 

tallbm

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I like that idea. When I do that I'll probably
make a stack out of it.
Yeah with it being a side vent I would smoker stack it something like this:
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It may help with cold smoking too. If it doesn't help with cold smoking I have another cool tinkering project for you and the stack itself, basically make this but with the smoker stack :

full.png


This little contraption fixes all my cold smoking stale smoke issues. It blows air up the cardboard stack which pulls air and smoke out of my smoker when cold smoking. Worksl ike a charm! :)
 

dr k

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Wind blowing into the top side vent hole will back draft more than a top vent that wind blows across. If you're still having burn issues I'd get that entire tray between the air coming in the bottom six hole at the bottom lid seal and the chip loader hole to the smoker. Patch/ seal the damper hole you cut. No need for damper on ammo can. Six pencil holes along the length of the amnps.
20211102_015718.jpg
 

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