pineywoods
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Let's see your Maters!
- Thread starter kajun
- Start date
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I just planted 20 mater plants Sat. The first night got unexpected frost, and then last night, predicted frost,so covered the peppers and tomatoes but the temp still hit 32*. I may have to replace some of them it looks like. I put 4 of the Parks Whopper in and they don't seem to like the cold they have the most burn on them. OH WELL
Mrs. 1894 says the most important thing in planting maters is keeping the rows straight and evenly spaced . This is a year or two old but she used two tape measures again this year
jocosa
Meat Mopper
Containerized two 'mater plants this year - my first time trying this.
A Roma Grape and I think the other was called 'Big Boy.'
Roma Grape seems to be super-bug free and I'm now picking 3-4 a day... this little plant is a producer!
The other had a tough start for some reason, but now has several small fist sized maters...
Also have some mild jalepenos ready to pick too.
A Roma Grape and I think the other was called 'Big Boy.'
Roma Grape seems to be super-bug free and I'm now picking 3-4 a day... this little plant is a producer!
The other had a tough start for some reason, but now has several small fist sized maters...
Also have some mild jalepenos ready to pick too.
Mine have produced very well, but seen their better days already. The heat is doing them in. People still run when I approach.
Mainly small Grape and Patio's, along with Roma like Julliettes. The Big one must be a Better Boy, although I do not remember planting them. Everything was from seeds.
Mainly small Grape and Patio's, along with Roma like Julliettes. The Big one must be a Better Boy, although I do not remember planting them. Everything was from seeds.
I think I do. Check for webbing and hold a white sheat of paper under a leaf and shake leaf. Look for mites on paper. ????
Although I did have some whiteflies and sprayed for them with OrthoMax, which I think handles spider mites (have to check)
Although I did have some whiteflies and sprayed for them with OrthoMax, which I think handles spider mites (have to check)
fireguy
Smoking Fanatic
www.entomology.ksu.edu/DesktopModules/ViewDocument.aspx?DocumentID=4173 -
flash maybe this will help, that is if this link works.. if not sorry
flash maybe this will help, that is if this link works.. if not sorry
fireguy
Smoking Fanatic
fireguy
Smoking Fanatic
ok, read here!!!
Spider Mites on Tomatoes
Spider Mites on Tomatoes
by Bob Bauernfeind
Spider mites are the cause of mid-summer woes for tomato growers. Often times, plants taking on a bronzed
appearance (Figures 12). Upon closer inspection, stippling can be seen on individual leaves (Figure 13).
Affected leaves eventually die and turn brown (Figure 14).
Figure 12 Figure 13 Figure 14
While spider mites are generally present in late spring and early summer, their initial populations levels are
low. However, because mites have relatively short life cycles (under ideal conditions, a generation can be
completed in a weeks time) and because hot dry summer conditions favor developmental rates, their
populations rapidly escalate. Although small in size (Figure 15), the cumulative effect of many mites results in
the rapid deterioration of tomato plants. In fact, by the time damage becomes apparent, many generations of
mites have already occurred, and the present population consists of all life stages (Figure 16).
http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/entomology/...r%20Mites.html (1 of 3)6/27/2006 5:28:03 AM
Spider Mites on Tomatoes
Figure 15 Figure 16
Spider mites tend to congregate on lower leaf surfaces, usually beginning on bottom leaves and working their
way to upper leaves. Spider mites damage plants by inserting their stylet mouthparts into individual plant cells
and withdrawing cellular liquids and contents. Removal of chlorophyll results in the aforementioned stippling.
The coalescence of dead cells results in the bronzed/brown appearance of leaves/plants.
Plants in this late stage of mite activity can be saved. Horticultural oils, horticultural soaps and Kelthane are the
3 most popular materials used to combat spider mite infestations. The key to mite control is thorough spray
coverage and timely follow-up treatments.
Thorough spray coverage
is especially important when using oils and soaps because these two materials
require direct contact with the active mite stages. Once dried, oils and soaps offer no residual control. While
Kelthane does have some residual capabilities, thorough spray coverage is still critical when attempting to
control mites. Factors complicating thorough coverage include: mites favoring undersides of leaves; mites
concentrated on lower leaves, many of which lie on the ground; dense foliage; a webbing (produced by mites)
which shields mites from miticide treatments.
Timely follow-up treatments
are required because initial spray treatments have little effect against mite eggs.
And once 6-legged larvae emerge from eggs, they proceed with unimpeded development. Thus the necessity of
the second spray treatment application 2 to 3 days after the initial treatment. All eggs will have hatched and no
mites will have attained adult status to deposit additional eggs to begin the mite population buildup anew. As
with the first spray treatment, thorough coverage must be attained with the follow-up treatment. Once mite
populations have been eliminated, plants will produce new foliage, and regain a healthy form.
________________________________
"Knowledge for Life" ___________________________________
All educational programs and materials available without discrimination on the basis of race, color, national origin, sex, age, or
disability. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, Extension Districts, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture
cooperating.
http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/entomology/...r%20Mites.html (2 of 3)6/27/2006 5:28:03 AM
Spider Mites on Tomatoes
K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.
Department of Entomology Home Page
| Entomology Extension Home page |
K-State Research and Extension Home Page | K-State Home Page |
This page was last updated on: 06/28/05 We hope you enjoy visiting our WWW site.
Please mail any questions, suggestions, or comments to: Psloderb at KSU.EDU
http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/entomology/...r%20Mites.html (3 of 3)6/27/2006 5:28:03 AM
Spider Mites on Tomatoes
Spider Mites on Tomatoes
by Bob Bauernfeind
Spider mites are the cause of mid-summer woes for tomato growers. Often times, plants taking on a bronzed
appearance (Figures 12). Upon closer inspection, stippling can be seen on individual leaves (Figure 13).
Affected leaves eventually die and turn brown (Figure 14).
Figure 12 Figure 13 Figure 14
While spider mites are generally present in late spring and early summer, their initial populations levels are
low. However, because mites have relatively short life cycles (under ideal conditions, a generation can be
completed in a weeks time) and because hot dry summer conditions favor developmental rates, their
populations rapidly escalate. Although small in size (Figure 15), the cumulative effect of many mites results in
the rapid deterioration of tomato plants. In fact, by the time damage becomes apparent, many generations of
mites have already occurred, and the present population consists of all life stages (Figure 16).
http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/entomology/...r%20Mites.html (1 of 3)6/27/2006 5:28:03 AM
Spider Mites on Tomatoes
Figure 15 Figure 16
Spider mites tend to congregate on lower leaf surfaces, usually beginning on bottom leaves and working their
way to upper leaves. Spider mites damage plants by inserting their stylet mouthparts into individual plant cells
and withdrawing cellular liquids and contents. Removal of chlorophyll results in the aforementioned stippling.
The coalescence of dead cells results in the bronzed/brown appearance of leaves/plants.
Plants in this late stage of mite activity can be saved. Horticultural oils, horticultural soaps and Kelthane are the
3 most popular materials used to combat spider mite infestations. The key to mite control is thorough spray
coverage and timely follow-up treatments.
Thorough spray coverage
is especially important when using oils and soaps because these two materials
require direct contact with the active mite stages. Once dried, oils and soaps offer no residual control. While
Kelthane does have some residual capabilities, thorough spray coverage is still critical when attempting to
control mites. Factors complicating thorough coverage include: mites favoring undersides of leaves; mites
concentrated on lower leaves, many of which lie on the ground; dense foliage; a webbing (produced by mites)
which shields mites from miticide treatments.
Timely follow-up treatments
are required because initial spray treatments have little effect against mite eggs.
And once 6-legged larvae emerge from eggs, they proceed with unimpeded development. Thus the necessity of
the second spray treatment application 2 to 3 days after the initial treatment. All eggs will have hatched and no
mites will have attained adult status to deposit additional eggs to begin the mite population buildup anew. As
with the first spray treatment, thorough coverage must be attained with the follow-up treatment. Once mite
populations have been eliminated, plants will produce new foliage, and regain a healthy form.
________________________________
"Knowledge for Life" ___________________________________
All educational programs and materials available without discrimination on the basis of race, color, national origin, sex, age, or
disability. Kansas State University, County Extension Councils, Extension Districts, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture
cooperating.
http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/entomology/...r%20Mites.html (2 of 3)6/27/2006 5:28:03 AM
Spider Mites on Tomatoes
K-State Research and Extension is an equal opportunity provider and employer.
Department of Entomology Home Page
| Entomology Extension Home page |
K-State Research and Extension Home Page | K-State Home Page |
This page was last updated on: 06/28/05 We hope you enjoy visiting our WWW site.
Please mail any questions, suggestions, or comments to: Psloderb at KSU.EDU
http://www.oznet.ksu.edu/entomology/...r%20Mites.html (3 of 3)6/27/2006 5:28:03 AM
Well no mites that I can see, but plenty of Whiteflies. Possibly also some Septoria Leaf Spot. I sprayed again with OrthoMax and saw hordes of whiteflies vacanting. Most of the other times are problems here in Florida are Fungi due to our summer rains and heat. Time to read some more.
Edit: OK, no mites here, what I think I am facingis called Early Blight. More a Fungus. Problem is I am probably too late to spray since I am harvesting. Something I needed to jump on early before the fruit set.
Edit: OK, no mites here, what I think I am facingis called Early Blight. More a Fungus. Problem is I am probably too late to spray since I am harvesting. Something I needed to jump on early before the fruit set.
Gardens look great everyone!
I read where it's time to start planting the mid-summer tomato plants for an early fall harvest. May depend on the region, I'm in the southeast.
Looks like I've been fighting the spider mites as with most others. What a pain those boogers are!!
I read where it's time to start planting the mid-summer tomato plants for an early fall harvest. May depend on the region, I'm in the southeast.
Looks like I've been fighting the spider mites as with most others. What a pain those boogers are!!
rsands
Smoke Blower
- Feb 3, 2009
- 98
- 10
And I can't wait! Was clearin out my camera today & found this on it from last year. Think the one on the right's a better boy, but more awesome is the one of the left, a Black Prim. From Russia, so they like a cooler climate and grow well in Ohio. Typically they're a little spicy, but my plants last year were very sweet. Like em better even than beefsteaks, and they're great producers. Yep, looking forward to summer!
superdave
Smoking Fanatic
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