It has begun

[JckDanls 07]

you can use two Mavs' at the same time... just need to sync them up separately...

 

[mrspooky]

(Picture add by me for reference of post)
 View media item 374808
MrSpooky, if you take the center bolts out, it will release the axle from the hub. you could then cut the axle off at the "cap" and bolt it back on. Make sure you seal it back up with RTV or a gasket of some kind. You would need to do this to both sides. You will then have a center section that isn't spinning anymore. Make sure you don't loose any oil out from the center. That's what lubricates the outer bearings. You may want to check the level of oil in the center and add some if it needs it. There should be a plug on the center section somewhere. Pull the plug and check the oil with the axle level front to back and side to side. Needs to be to the bottom of the hole (oil). You can stick your finger in the hole to feel where the oil level is. If you need to add some, fill it until it just starts to run back out the hole. Should be 75/90 weight oil, or close to it.

So, I had a little spare time and got one side of this done.

20150219_202747[1].jpg

• mrspooky
• Feb 19, 2015

 But then I got to wondering how the oil in the stump gets out to those bearings in the wheel, after all the oil fill hole is lower than the axles.  Im just thinking out loud here,,,, but don't the gears in the stump need to be spinning to sling oil up to the wheel bearings? 

 

[dannyp]

on the Toyota full floating axles ive worked on there is an oil seal in the tube to block the oil from coming in contact with the bearings. they are lubed with high speed bearing grease. if youre going to run it with the broken axle shaft pictured you should figure out a way to plug the axle tube so the oil stays where is should and the grease doesn't get washed out of the bearings.

 

[mrspooky]

This might be a little different than the Toyota set up.. when i unbolted this and popped it loose (Rtv stuff was holding it) oil ran out as SmokeyD described.. It looks like there's a sleeve in there the leingth of the axle that the axle floats in but i didn't see a oil seal or anything like that in there. When I pulled out the axle it just slid out freely. I didnt feel any resistance that a seal might create. It was dark, but i dont think i even saw any bearings.... ill do the other side tonight and try to take a picture of what im looking at.

 

[dannyp]

if the gears turning is what oils the bearings then id think you could just grease the bearings with bearing grease instead.

 

[mrspooky]

Im just jumping around getting the "add on's" on. I started on the place to carry the wood. Its 33" X 27".  Im not sure on how high to make it though. Sense this is my first go at this, I don't have a clue as to how much wood to expect to go through. I thought about doing it 13"tall or so..  Just got it propped up level with crap now just to see how it might look.

20150221_202622.jpg

• mrspooky
• Feb 21, 2015

20150221_201441.jpg

• mrspooky
• Feb 21, 2015

 Gonna try to make a grate for the FB tomorrow.. Anybody know if the 3/4" #9 expanded will hold up in a FB?

 Thanks

 

[sphumbard]

I have 3/4" #9 in my FB. So far it seams to be holding up pretty well. Have had about 6 good burns. I have a rebar mat underneath with the expanded metal just laying on top. It has warped a little but holding up.

 

[mrspooky]

Little things, little things..... Worked all day just getting little things done. Starting to come together. Got the bottom of the wood carrier on, but gotta wait to get more supplies to finish up. Got the door fit as bout as good as its going to get, and got a cap built for the top of the stack now I need to figure a way to make it functional..

20150222_172215.jpg

• mrspooky
• Feb 22, 2015

20150222_172236.jpg

• mrspooky
• Feb 22, 2015

20150222_172341.jpg

• mrspooky
• Feb 22, 2015

Thanks for lookin!

 

[JckDanls 07]

myself... I think you will be replacing 3/4 #9 expanded way sooner than you would like...look into some regular raised expanded, heavier gauge ...

here's an example ... http://www.expandedmetalsupplier.com/products/regular-expanded-metal.html

 

[gary s]

Nice, I too would go with heavy expanded metal

Gary

 

[mrspooky]

myself... I think you will be replacing 3/4 #9 expanded way sooner than you would like...look into some regular raised expanded, heavier gauge ...

here's an example ... http://www.expandedmetalsupplier.com/products/regular-expanded-metal.html

yea, thanks JckD. . I just have some extra on hand and was wondering.  I might try to look for something a little "beefier" . The steel place here don't sell piece, either you buy the full sheet /stick or nothing at all... I didn't get around to the grate today so I might still try to source something different..

 

[killerb468]

 
if the gears turning is what oils the bearings then id think you could just grease the bearings with bearing grease instead.

thats what I did on a converted 14 bolt full float axle for a trailer. Pulled the bearings and packed it full of grease.

 

[mrspooky]

So what keeps the grease in there?  Here is what the inside of mine looks like.....

20150220_193632.jpg

• mrspooky
• Feb 25, 2015

To be honest, I have never taken the wheeles off the trailer. Is there bearings somewhere that Im not seeing? Also, if there is bearings, what stops the oil in the stump from getting n the bearings and "washing" the grease out?

 Thanks

 

[dannyp]

That thing with the notches in it is a retaining nut. When that comes off then there is a star washer with tabs youll need to bend off of the retaining nut behind it. When the 2 retaining nuts and star washer are removed the whole hub will slide off the axle and there is an inside and outside bearing. If youve got the shafts cut short then there is no reason to keep gear oil inside the housing so there will be nothing to wash the grease out. Just be sure to fully pack the bearings with high speed bearing grease. Hope that makes sense

By the way. The auto parts stores sell a socket to fit into those notches in the retaining nut.

 

[mrspooky]

That thing with the notches in it is a retaining nut. When that comes off then there is a star washer with tabs youll need to bend off of the retaining nut behind it. When the 2 retaining nuts and star washer are removed the whole hub will slide off the axle and there is an inside and outside bearing. If youve got the shafts cut short then there is no reason to keep gear oil inside the housing so there will be nothing to wash the grease out. Just be sure to fully pack the bearings with high speed bearing grease. Hope that makes sense

By the way. The auto parts stores sell a socket to fit into those notches in the retaining nut.

Thanks! that makes perfect sense. So I guess the bearings are somewhat sealed, otherwise the greese would just sling out of them????  Ill pull this bad boy off and check it out as soon as the rain lets up.

 Thanks again Mr. Danny

 

[gary s]

Here is some info

www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNOeMCeWWn4

 

[mrspooky]

OH,,,, so its the same as a regular trailer baring? Iv changed plenty of them.  Like I said, this is the first time Iv ever messed with this trailer wheel and this style of axle. Guess I was makin it harder than it really is..

 Thanks Yall!

 

[novasbc]

 
Got a little more done tonight, it seems like the closer you get , the more little things start showing up that still need to be done... I was thinking back (on post 162) about the hole size and decided to go with 1.5" drain pipe for both the grease drain and the chamber drain. It would take a chickin leg to clog that up. Found out it was a bad idea to use beer for the "flow " test... Smells like crap when you grind on it.

20150212_190608.jpg

• mrspooky
• Feb 12, 2015

Im gonna try to put front braces on it using the legs that was already on it from the last goround. The back legs will be done the same as the front leg mockup. Im thinking Im gonna drill holes in the legs to mimic the holes on the frame.

20150212_194006.jpg

• mrspooky
• Feb 12, 2015

 If I have enough metal left over from everything Im thinking adding a 3X2X2 basket right against the front of the smoker to haul wood in.

 thanks for lookin

 

[lendecatural]

No, the pipe goes out the bottom of the tank, usually to a valve.

 

[mrspooky]

Yea,,this picture is just after i drilled the hole. Then i slid in the pipe and welded it in. It goes through the tank and sticks down about 6". As Mr.Len said it will have a valve on it. I have 2- 1.5" drains.. btw,, 1.5" valves are a little more $$$$ than i thought......dang. .