Is this typical of electric smokers?

[jtbrewing100]

Hello,
I just converted my Weber Smokey Mountain to electric. I have an old Ranco controller that I used for home brewing (max 220F). Right now I only plan to use for sausage, so that shouldnt be an issue. Is it typical for electric smokers to cycle this widely? The controller is set to a 1 degree differential. It’s an empty smoker, so I assume meat will add thermal mass. Should I insulate smoker? Outside temp is 35F. I started at 100F then bumped to 125F.
TIA

 

[old sarge]

For analog, yes. They can vary 15 -25 degrees high and low of the set temp as the element cycles on and off. In the grand scheme of things, the cycling averages out to your desired temp. Digital PID controllers cycle much faster and are usually within a couple of degrees of your set temp. Insulation is always a good idea. A water heater blanket should do the trick. Still, you will want to monitor meat and smoker temp till you get comfortable.

 

[JckDanls 07]

If you want to hold temps dead on your set temp... you'll need a PID that uses a SSR (solid state relay)... I believe the one your using has a contact relay.. that's why such a temp variance... It's like your oven... on full blast until it gets to temp and shuts off.. but temps keep rising... doesn't come back on until temp gets lower than set point... back on full blast again... and the cycle keeps going... as old sarge said your average will be the set point...

Also... looking at the picture of the element... Isn't that a thermostat on it as well ?? If so... the two (element t-stat and PID controller) are fighting against each other ... You will need an element without a built in t-stat ...

 

[dr k]

Hello,
I just converted my Weber Smokey Mountain to electric. I have an old Ranco controller that I used for home brewing (max 220F). Right now I only plan to use for sausage, so that shouldnt be an issue. Is it typical for electric smokers to cycle this widely? The controller is set to a 1 degree differential. It’s an empty smoker, so I assume meat will add thermal mass. Should I insulate smoker? Outside temp is 35F. I started at 100F then bumped to 125F.
TIA

What's the wattage of the element and max wattage of your digital controller even though it maxes at 220F? If the analog dial on the element is set to max then it should always call for heat as it's plugged into the digital controller and it open and closes the circuit because of the 220F limit. That element looks like a 1,500 watt like the Masterbuit analog smokers that may get up to about 400F on just the dial. If the digital controller can't handle the element wattage then it'll take longer to heat and shorter peaks of over coasting and longer to recover on the down coast to make for longer valleys. If this is the case then you'll average you max temp well below 220F with digital controller set to max. IF no PID investment is need the WillHi WH-1803B handles 1,650 watts with a 500+F sensor on amazon. To handle that element. Inkbird has controllers like yours that has the watts but maxes at 220F so the high temp sensor is nice if you need to average a little higher temp or hot smoke with your element.

WILLHI Digital Temperature Controller Build in Outlet 1650W 110V 15A Over Current Protection Thermostat Controller Heating Cooling -22~572℉ for Reptile Freezer Greenhouse Temperature Control, WH-1803B

 

[jtbrewing100]

What's the wattage of the element and max wattage of your digital controller even though it maxes at 220F? If the analog dial on the element is set to max then it should always call for heat as it's plugged into the digital controller and it open and closes the circuit because of the 220F limit. That element looks like a 1,500 watt like the Masterbuit analog smokers that may get up to about 400F on just the dial. If the digital controller can't handle the element wattage then it'll take longer to heat and shorter peaks of over coasting and longer to recover on the down coast to make for longer valleys. If this is the case then you'll average you max temp well below 220F with digital controller set to max. IF no PID investment is need the WillHi WH-1803B handles 1,650 watts with a 500+F sensor on amazon. To handle that element. Inkbird has controllers like yours that has the watts but maxes at 220F so the high temp sensor is nice if you need to average a little higher temp or hot smoke with your element.

WILLHI Digital Temperature Controller Build in Outlet 1650W 110V 15A Over Current Protection Thermostat Controller Heating Cooling -22~572℉ for Reptile Freezer Greenhouse Temperature Control, WH-1803B

That is great information, thank you

 

[Steve H]

A SSR is no different then a MCR in the regards of it cycling off and on. It does not vary the current/voltage. A SSR is better because of no moving parts to wear or contacts to fail. And holds up better for repeated/short cycles. Is the controller you're using have a true PID function? I don't know the unit you're using.

 

[JckDanls 07]

Hey there!

If you really want to keep temperatures exactly where you set them, you'll need a PID with an SSR (solid state relay)... I assume the one you're using has a contact relay, which would explain the wide temperature range. It's like your oven... it's on full blast until it reaches temperature and shuts off... but the temperature continues to rise. It doesn't come back on until the temperature falls below the set point... then it's back on full blast... and the cycle continues. As old Sarge said, your average will be the set point...

It would have been easier to just quote my post instead of typing it out word for word...

If you want to hold temps dead on your set temp... you'll need a PID that uses a SSR (solid state relay)... I believe the one your using has a contact relay.. that's why such a temp variance... It's like your oven... on full blast until it gets to temp and shuts off.. but temps keep rising... doesn't come back on until temp gets lower than set point... back on full blast again... and the cycle keeps going... as old sarge said your average will be the set point...

Also... looking at the picture of the element... Isn't that a thermostat on it as well ?? If so... the two (element t-stat and PID controller) are fighting against each other ... You will need an element without a built in t-stat ...

 

[Jonok]

My big (7000 watt, twin element 240v) electric smoker has a $30 Chinese PID and a high quality DPDT mechanical relay. It invariably holds temps to within a degree or so, and essentially never “overshoots” after a heat-change event like opening the door or refilling the smoke generator. It makes noise that a SSR doesn’t, but it is also is much less likely to fail closed (and burn up as a result) than a SSR/PID all-in-one controller, and, if something does break, (nothing has in more than 100 cooks), it’s going to cost me less than $50 to replace the faulty part.