DIY Electric Smoke house not getting hot enough

[Roara]

Built my own mini smoke house using some spare pine/cedar 2x4s and a few 2x6s. Wanted to go with a simple electric heating/smoking with cast iron. Running into the issue that the internal temp isn't getting above 170F. Was hoping for 200-250F range as we wanted to smoke some Pinks/Sockeyes/Coho we've been catching. I tried adding a second heating element with a second cast iron and about an inch of wood chips on each and the max temp I got was 170F. My first run attempt and it maxed at 128F after almost two hours.
The smoke only seems to be coming out of the top of the front door so I'm not worried about the spacing of the wood as it's swollen a bit and any gaps seem to be gone.
Wondering if I should just get a bare third element to help get the temp higher or if it's the electric burns need to be higher wattage to see that higher temp.
Any thoughts or suggestions welcomed as I'm still a newbie to this and wanting to learn more.

 

[JckDanls 07]

That's a nice looking smoke house you have...

The problems gonna be the heat element you have... They have built in safety switchs (snap switch).... They shhut down when they get to a certain temp.

The answer is gonna be a PID controlled heat element...

 

[BGKYSmoker]

Thats a nice little smoker. Like Keith said you need more heat from a bigger element. 1000-1500watts or higher.

My tip:
Smoke house is not supposed to be air tight, it needs to breath at various points. Around door, air flow from the bottom or sides to the top for draw.

200-250* and you could start leaching sap from the pine.
Your 170 is great for what your smoking

 

[indaswamp]

I agree that you need some vents. Not necessary for the heat element, but for removing the stale smoke from the smokehouse and to feed oxygen to the burning embers creating the smoke. Otherwise, you end up with ash tray, bitter, stale smoke, creosote tasting food....

 

[chopsaw]

Well built smoke house .
I just bought this element . I put it in an old 22" Kettle , but it would work for what you want . Analog control plugged into a PID holds good temps .

https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Thermostat-Controller-Replacement-Masterbuilt/dp/B096LPHCLB/ref=asc_df_B096LPHCLB/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=532423241675&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12461395759894585921&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1020519&hvtargid=pla-1409368137996&psc=1

Like said above , that pine will leach sap at higher temps .

 

[Roara]

Well built smoke house .
I just bought this element . I put it in an old 22" Kettle , but it would work for what you want . Analog control plugged into a PID holds good temps .

https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Thermostat-Controller-Replacement-Masterbuilt/dp/B096LPHCLB/ref=asc_df_B096LPHCLB/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=532423241675&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12461395759894585921&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1020519&hvtargid=pla-1409368137996&psc=1

Like said above , that pine will leach sap at higher temps .

Would I use this in replacement of the two electric burns then? Or could I use it in addition to help increase the temperature?

 

[Roara]

I agree that you need some vents. Not necessary for the heat element, but for removing the stale smoke from the smokehouse and to feed oxygen to the burning embers creating the smoke. Otherwise, you end up with ash tray, bitter, stale smoke, creosote tasting food....

I have some vents I made on the back that can slide open, can kind of see them in that one photo. And I have a second set on the top of the smokehouse. Would i need more? And would I just open them a bit to help release the smoke and create air flow? Worried if I open them fully the cooler outside temp will drop in the inside too much.

 

[Roara]

Thats a nice little smoker. Like Keith said you need more heat from a bigger element. 1000-1500watts or higher.

My tip:
Smoke house is not supposed to be air tight, it needs to breath at various points. Around door, air flow from the bottom or sides to the top for draw.

200-250* and you could start leaching sap from the pine.
Your 170 is great for what your smoking

Is 170 hot enough for fish though? I'd cure it the day before in a brine so it would have started to cook with that but I wanted to go for that nice tender smoked fish. I'm still trying to grasp on the temps I need for things, seems to be a lot of different info out there.

 

[indaswamp]

I have some vents I made on the back that can slide open, can kind of see them in that one photo. And I have a second set on the top of the smokehouse. Would i need more? And would I just open them a bit to help release the smoke and create air flow? Worried if I open them fully the cooler outside temp will drop in the inside too much.

How many holes, and what size? Also, the dimensions of your smokehouse would be helpful to figure out how large the exhaust should be.

 

[chopsaw]

Would I use this in replacement of the two electric burns then? Or could I use it in addition to help increase the temperature?

Should be enough to do what you want by itself .

 

[Roara]

How many holes, and what size? Also, the dimensions of your smokehouse would be helpful to figure out how large the exhaust should be.

Five holes on the bottom and top and size are about inch and a quarter

 

[hoity toit]

Built my own mini smoke house using some spare pine/cedar 2x4s and a few 2x6s. Wanted to go with a simple electric heating/smoking with cast iron. Running into the issue that the internal temp isn't getting above 170F. Was hoping for 200-250F range as we wanted to smoke some Pinks/Sockeyes/Coho we've been catching. I tried adding a second heating element with a second cast iron and about an inch of wood chips on each and the max temp I got was 170F. My first run attempt and it maxed at 128F after almost two hours.
The smoke only seems to be coming out of the top of the front door so I'm not worried about the spacing of the wood as it's swollen a bit and any gaps seem to be gone.
Wondering if I should just get a bare third element to help get the temp higher or if it's the electric burns need to be higher wattage to see that higher temp.
Any thoughts or suggestions welcomed as I'm still a newbie to this and wanting to learn more.
View attachment 676512View attachment 676513View attachment 676514

You need 1500 watt element to do what you are trying to acheive.Thats what I run in mine and easily get 225-250 degrees, i use a PID to set the temp I want and go to bed and not worry.
https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Adjustable-Thermostat-Controller-Masterbuilt/dp/B09G9KSS9J

https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Adjustable-Thermostat-Controller-Masterbuilt/dp/B09G9KSS9J

HT

 

[JckDanls 07]

hoity toit , The controller on the heat element (even set on high ) doesn't try to take control at higher temps ?

 

[chopsaw]

You need 1500 watt element to do what you are trying to acheive.Thats what I run in mine and easily get 225-250 degrees, i use a PID to set the temp I want and go to bed and not worry.

I use a different brand , but same wattage . I put it in a kettle and use a PID to control . Works great .

 

[bill1]

So what is the wattage of those hot plates? I'd suspect about 500-1000watts each. It seems odd you can't get over 170F with both on. Is it possible you're powering them through an undersized extension cord?