Thank you Wade. Being in the UK and only Cold Smoking (CS) in the autumn to spring, for that simple reason cooling is not normally a problem for me. For anyone starting out, my cabinet was home made with untreated timber, so quite cheap to build for a lot of space - you can tailor-make one to suit your space. As the cabinet is permanently outside, the exposed outer wood is carefully treated (with an animal friendly one) so as not to let any treatment seep inside. I have added a 'Shelter' from the fence, which helps keep me dry when it rains and does protect the Smokers from the worst of the weather.
I modified it to use the Metal Ducting which helps conduct heat away from the smoke more effectively. Also, being flexible, it allows for a decent length for smoke cooling. With the Firebox just below the level of the Cabinet, but NOT underneath it, the 'hot' smoke rises into the ducting and pushes the smoke along the transverse ducting, cooling it, until finally turning up into the base of the cabinet. Inside the cabinet there is a raised board to spread the smoke evenly around the cabinet.
My suggestion of using ice bags was to place them along the metal ducting, cooling the metal, to assist cooling the smoke as it passes through, if the ambient air temperature is above 68f (20c). We have those Ice Cube Bags you fill from the tap in the freezer, if they were needed. Not thought about putting it inside the cabinet though. Personally I've not needed to do that yet. In my video, the air temperature that day was 54f (12c) and inside the top of the cabinet was 59f (15c) after several hours. I bought a Ground Thermometer and inserted that at the top of my cabinet, as another modification, to monitor the cabinet temperature and aim for around 60f (15c).
Using the 'Maze' system for the shavings & sawdust (a combination) in the Firebox has definitely made Cold Smoking more efficient. There is a longer constant smoke with less 'topping-up'. I do have to keep an eye on the fire-box occasionally, just in case it goes out - it does sometimes, other times it burns perfectly - must be just getting the right amount of pressure on the fuels when loading it. A 'clip-on' computer fan (using bit of stiff wire) is useful if the firebox needs some encouragement. Starting early in the morning lets me sleep that night... Even if it goes out there is cold smoke in the cabinet for quite a while.
The cabinets are in the shade and you're right, I don't normally CS and HS at the same time, so won't worry about a screen between them.
With the Hot Smoker (HS), I now use the meat cooking thermometer pushed through the lid joint at the top. The default one, as you say, is pointless. I inherited both these Smokers from my father-in-law and only do a small amount of HS Smoking, mainly with sausages and chicken, or small meat portions and would agree that it would be wise for a serious HS user to invest in something more efficient. Definitely agree not a good idea to cold smoke bought sausages.
--- For anyone who's not seen it, the video is at:
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When Dry Curing the Salmon (for CS), after brining it is pressed (using a wooden board and kitchen weights) and 'fridge' chilled on grill trays that allow water to drain away into the drip tray overnight. So far it has been quite firm and nicely moist but not wet. So, I guess I: 1-Increase the salt levels, 2-reduce the free water content and 3-reduce the bacteria with the smoke. When thinly sliced and vacuum bagged, it freezes well. All consumers still upright!
The cheeses were popular and were kept for a week or two before using. Had to try a taster straight away, but agree smoked cheese needs to rest for at least a week and absorb flavours before tasting. Froze some and that seemed to work well.
Thank you for the tip on shellfish - I might give some a try this winter.
On the
Sawdust and Shavings - From our open fire indoors, I know a local Tree Surgeon/Log Supplier. I give him a few packs of frozen Smoked Salmon and I get Oak, Maple and Alder trunk logs (40cm dia. x 25cm length), for me to plane or circular saw. I use an electric planer (Lidl-Parkside) which is brilliantly adjustable. Attach an old vacuum cleaner hose to the planer and the shavings are fed into a closed bin, which I empty into labelled individual tree type tins for storing until required. Sorry! commercial suppliers...
IMPORTANT NOTES:
1. The cut surfaces of the trunks are discarded to avoid using any possible contamination from any chainsaw oil. Never use chainsawed sawdust - it will contain oil.
2. The bark is discarded to avoid any contaminants that the tree has kept outside of its nice inner wood. Bark collects all sorts of nasties we don't want smoked.
Obvious, but thought it good to post that.
Hope this is helpful to others starting out.