Oiling a Butcher Block cutting board...

[inkjunkie]

Ernestina has decided to start using her Butcher Block cutting board. When she pulled it out of the box it had a sticker attached to it saying it needed to be oiled prior to its first use and re-oiled whenever necessary. How does one know when a Butcher Block cutting board needs to be re-oiled? Or is this something that should just be done on a regular, say weekly, basis? Thanks in advance for any help....IJ

 

[trickyputt]

Ernestina has decided to start using her Butcher Block cutting board. When she pulled it out of the box it had a sticker attached to it saying it needed to be oiled prior to its first use and re-oiled whenever necessary. How does one know when a Butcher Block cutting board needs to be re-oiled? Or is this something that should just be done on a regular, say weekly, basis? Thanks in advance for any help....IJ

oil is a finish, and it helps prevent organic materials from saturating and then rotting inside the small cracks, crevices of the wood. I would suggest mineral oil, and not an oil with the ability to go rancid.

 

[b-one]

Once a month should do it. Or if it looks dry. Thats all we do with our butcher block counter top. When it's dry it will start to look white. Don't use just any oil they can turn rancid in the wood I suggest mineral oil. Cost the surface then wipe up the excess with cheap paper towels.

 

[bladebuilder]

Therre is a product called board butter, or salad bowl wax. Its a mix of mineral oil and bees wax. In a paste consistency.  You rub it in, let it dry and buff. I use it on the boards I make. I also know a couple professional board makers that use this method, and several pro chefs. As for duration, any time the board looks dull, or is looking "dry". Mineral oil alone works well. Boards are usually saturated to capacity, then waxed. If you use oil only, you should do both sides, as the board WILL swell and warp.

The oil/wax really helps the grain pop!

Picture1679.jpg

• bladebuilder
• Dec 21, 2014

 

[GaryHibbert]

Beautiful grain in that wood
Gary

 

[venture]

I repaired and salvaged a 40 year-old one a few years back.  With the major repair job, I sanded the whole thing down.

I did mine with mineral oil.  4 or 5 nights in a row until it stopped absorbing oil.  I put the oil on hot to the touch and let it sit overnight.

After that I did it once a month for about 3 months.  One application only.

Now it will go 6 or 8 months before it starts to look dry in the main working area.

There is nothing my knives like better than working on a butcher block cutting board.

Also, hats off to Bladebuilder!  Having never done a job like that, I was amazed at the intricacies and the time involved in such a simple looking project!  I can't see myself building one from scratch without more knowledge and equipment.

Good luck and good smoking.

 

[trickyputt]

Is linseed oil (not boiled) useful for butcher block? I know it as the antique furniture oil finish from the past, and I dont know if it could be used. I have never used it in the kitchen and am unaware of its potential drawbacks, if any, like a long term darkening. Without boiling it I understand it will not dry readily, and the patina of old hardwood furniture treated with linseed arrived by wiping the furniture with oil as it was cleaned every six months to a year in a normal way, building layers up over the years.

 

[daveomak]

Is linseed oil (not boiled) useful for butcher block? I know it as the antique furniture oil finish from the past, and I dont know if it could be used. I have never used it in the kitchen and am unaware of its potential drawbacks, if any, like a long term darkening. Without boiling it I understand it will not dry readily, and the patina of old hardwood furniture treated with linseed arrived by wiping the furniture with oil as it was cleaned every six months to a year in a normal way, building layers up over the years.

Flax seed oil will go rancid.... (Linseed Oil)..... Use food safe mineral oil or

 

[gary s]

Cool, I just learned a lot

Gary

 

[bladebuilder]

Amen Dave. You can also DIY, by slowly heating mineral oil, and melting pure bees wax in it. Once it reaches a thicker consistency pour it into a tub, like a margarine tub, and use a soft cloth to rub it in.

I recommend pure mineral oil first. Apply to both sides if you can, let it absorbe as buch as it wants, then finish with the board butter. I reapply board butter maybe every 4 months, and a coat of oil annually.

 

[seenred]

 
Therre is a product called board butter, or salad bowl wax. Its a mix of mineral oil and bees wax. In a paste consistency.  You rub it in, let it dry and buff. I use it on the boards I make. I also know a couple professional board makers that use this method, and several pro chefs. As for duration, any time the board looks dull, or is looking "dry". Mineral oil alone works well. Boards are usually saturated to capacity, then waxed. If you use oil only, you should do both sides, as the board WILL swell and warp.

The oil/wax really helps the grain pop!

Picture1679.jpg

• bladebuilder
• Dec 21, 2014

That board is a work of art!  You, sir, are a master craftsman!

Red

 

[inkjunkie]

Thanks for all the tips folks...Ernie is going to to the oil/board butter method...Thanks again...but please keep the advice coming...

 

[bladebuilder]

As a guide, the board I posted the picture is black cherry/black walnut. 18"x24"x2" thick. It absorbed just shy of 600 ml of oil. So just under 20 oz's. Keep in mind this was a raw, untreated, unfinished board.

 

[inkjunkie]

 
I repaired and salvaged a 40 year-old one a few years back.  With the major repair job, I sanded the whole thing down.

I did mine with mineral oil.  4 or 5 nights in a row until it stopped absorbing oil.  I put the oil on hot to the touch and let it sit overnight.

After that I did it once a month for about 3 months.  One application only.

Now it will go 6 or 8 months before it starts to look dry in the main working area.

There is nothing my knives like better than working on a butcher block cutting board.

Also, hats off to Bladebuilder!  Having never done a job like that, I was amazed at the intricacies and the time involved in such a simple looking project!  I can't see myself building one from scratch without more knowledge and equipment.

Good luck and good smoking.

Safe to assume that the blade edge will be a bit happier when she starts using the wood board over the existing board? I don't even know what it is made from. Used to work with a guy that sold knives...I got her 2 11 piece Henckels sets, one with 6 steak knives for less than 1 of the sets retail years ago. I keep them sharp with my Lansky sharpener, just would be nice if the edge lasted a bit longer...

 

[hickorybutt]

I used coconut oil on my butcher block a couple months ago...  Read somewhere that it would be good for seasoning wood cutting boards.

Anyone know if coconut oil would eventually go rancid also?  It naturally has antibacterial properties...

EDIT addition:  found an article that says coconut oil can safely be used- http://www.cuttingboard.com/blog/how-to-properly-clean-your-wood-cutting-board/

Not really familiar with the source it is coming from, but take it for what its worth

 

[sqwib]

I just refinished three last night  I ran two thru a planer a few months ago, last night I sanded down the three with 60 grit, then 120 grit, then treated with flax seed oil and placed in the oven and kept warm for several hours, I just kept rubbing with the oil untill the wood could not absorb anymore, they came out real nice, I'll snap a pic tonight.

I'm going to order what Dave suggests and refinish in several months with that, got it in my Amazon Cart.

 

[sqwib]

Here's a nice step by step.

 

[ak1]

I just use mineral oil. works great. Inexpensive.

 

[bladebuilder]

I deal with a lot of food professionals, and I use products that I don't need to wonder or worry about. If it has merit in the food industry, in inspected facilities, I will defer to their guidelines. Mineral oil and bees wax are recognized and accepted, food safe. I'm sure flax and coconut oils are fine to use. They provide very nice finishes. For a cutting board, the pores of the wood open and close with a self healing effect on end grain boards. A finish that "cures" or hardens will show those scratches, and I have heard of them flaking, and yellowing.

I highly recommend this. http://theboardsmith.com/product/board-butter/

 

[trickyputt]

Those are really nice cutting boards on that site. Amazing!