DIY Generic temperature controller for electric smoker

[greglarious]

I like my new Masterbuilt electric smoker but the analog temperature dial is annoying. So, I built a generic PID temperature controller using the Inkbird itc-106VH. Looking inside the box, the controller is on the right, the SSR and heatsink in the middle, outlet and AC module on the left. There is a fan that blows through the SSR heatsink keeping it cool to a nice 89F.

No modifications needed on the smoker, it simply plugs into the outlet on the controller and I turn up the analog knob dial to high and let the Inkbird cycle the outlet off/on to keep the smoker at the right temperature.

Here is a helpful wiring diagram for the itc-100VH but that is identical to the 106 version.

Next up will be a small sheet metal "roof" over the control box to keep it dry during light rain.

 

[tallbm]

I like my new Masterbuilt electric smoker but the analog temperature dial is annoying. So, I built a generic PID temperature controller using the Inkbird itc-106VH. Looking inside the box, the controller is on the right, the SSR and heatsink in the middle, outlet and AC module on the left. There is a fan that blows through the SSR heatsink keeping it cool to a nice 89F.

No modifications needed on the smoker, it simply plugs into the outlet on the controller and I turn up the analog knob dial to high and let the Inkbird cycle the outlet off/on to keep the smoker at the right temperature.

Here is a helpful wiring diagram for the itc-100VH but that is identical to the 106 version.

Next up will be a small sheet metal "roof" over the control box to keep it dry during light rain.
View attachment 665725View attachment 665727View attachment 665728View attachment 665729

Nice work, looks good!!!

If those box outlets melt down on you, cannibalizing a short 12-16awg extension cord for the female and male ends and using relief glands to fasten to the box will do you well :)

Mine all melted down so I switched to cords and never looked back!

 

[JC in GB]

I like my new Masterbuilt electric smoker but the analog temperature dial is annoying. So, I built a generic PID temperature controller using the Inkbird itc-106VH. Looking inside the box, the controller is on the right, the SSR and heatsink in the middle, outlet and AC module on the left. There is a fan that blows through the SSR heatsink keeping it cool to a nice 89F.

No modifications needed on the smoker, it simply plugs into the outlet on the controller and I turn up the analog knob dial to high and let the Inkbird cycle the outlet off/on to keep the smoker at the right temperature.

Here is a helpful wiring diagram for the itc-100VH but that is identical to the 106 version.

Next up will be a small sheet metal "roof" over the control box to keep it dry during light rain.
View attachment 665725View attachment 665727View attachment 665728View attachment 665729

Nice work getting that into that small enclosure. That PID looks very similar to the REX C-100 controllers. I am going to compare the pin out when I get a chance.

Do you have a heat sink on that SSR module?

JC

 

[greglarious]

Nice work, looks good!!!

If those box outlets melt down on you, cannibalizing a short 12-16awg extension cord for the female and male ends and using relief glands to fasten to the box will do you well :)

Mine all melted down so I switched to cords and never looked back!

I might be missing something but why would the outlet melt? It is rated at 15A and the smoker should peak at 12.5A. Using a laser/infrared thermometer to monitor after a couple hours of use, the max internal temp was 89F on the heatsink.

 

[greglarious]

Nice work getting that into that small enclosure. That PID looks very similar to the REX C-100 controllers. I am going to compare the pin out when I get a chance.

Do you have a heat sink on that SSR module?

JC

Yes there is a heatsink and that small fan blows air through it. Max measured temp was 89F after 2 hours of use. I edited above to add a closeup pic of the fan and heatsink.

 

[JC in GB]

Yes there is a heatsink and that small fan blows air through it. Max measured temp was 89F after 2 hours of use. I edited above to add a closeup pic of the fan and heatsink.

Nice. I use a metal case and use the case to sink heat from the SSR. I haven't had any overheating issues. SSRs have pretty low on resistance at unity so you shouldn't get a lot of heat rise.

JC

 

[tallbm]

I might be missing something but why would the outlet melt? It is rated at 15A and the smoker should peak at 12.5A. Using a laser/infrared thermometer to monitor after a couple hours of use, the max internal temp was 89F on the heatsink.

That is the trap I fell into my friend. Like "these are 15A components, no problem".

What I failed to understand is that all those cheap plastic made in China components are garbage. 15A my ass, they heat up and melt down and fall apart.

Burned up/melted down all my outlets, rocker switches, and fuse holders.

Swapped outlets to cannibalized extension cords fastened with relief grommets.

Swapped rocker switches to a heavy duty 40A marine breaker switch (melted soooo many switches I went hardcore on a $20 switch lol to make sure it never happened again lol).

Swapped fuse holders for a Bussman Humana brand.

None of those components have melted down since.

 

[greglarious]

Wow, sounds like those meltdowns could be dangerous and cause a fire or even electric shock!
I have a 15A fuse on the AC module and a 2A fuse on the ITC-106VH so hopefully any failures will not be catastrophic.

I will be careful and monitor temperature as much as possible during long cook times. In your experience, do you think periodic checks with a laser thermometer will help me know it is getting too hot before failure happens or was it a sudden kind of thing with no warning?

 

[tallbm]

Wow, sounds like those meltdowns could be dangerous and cause a fire or even electric shock!
I have a 15A fuse on the AC module and a 2A fuse on the ITC-106VH so hopefully any failures will not be catastrophic.

I will be careful and monitor temperature as much as possible during long cook times. In your experience, do you think periodic checks with a laser thermometer will help me know it is getting too hot before failure happens or was it a sudden kind of thing with no warning?

You would have to check the component directly.

The heat generation was due to resistance in the components. resistance from bad connections, assembly, etc. of just pourly made components. It was never heat generation from the PID or coming off the Heat Sink.

So to answer you question, I don't think the laser thermometer would tell you in general unless you pointed it directly on the components like the back of the switch, or back of the plug, etc.

You'll visually notice signs of those components heating up and melting down if you visually inspect them. You just never know when they are going to fail.

I bought all my components on amazon where they came like 5 at a time and had good reviews etc. I think components from a reputable well known company and maybe one not from China or getting them made in China could have different results :)

Just giving you a heads up to keep an eye out for it and if they melt down on you, I have solutions to help share :D

 

[NewBuilder]

I like my new Masterbuilt electric smoker but the analog temperature dial is annoying. So, I built a generic PID temperature controller using the Inkbird itc-106VH. Looking inside the box, the controller is on the right, the SSR and heatsink in the middle, outlet and AC module on the left. There is a fan that blows through the SSR heatsink keeping it cool to a nice 89F.

No modifications needed on the smoker, it simply plugs into the outlet on the controller and I turn up the analog knob dial to high and let the Inkbird cycle the outlet off/on to keep the smoker at the right temperature.

Here is a helpful wiring diagram for the itc-100VH but that is identical to the 106 version.

Next up will be a small sheet metal "roof" over the control box to keep it dry during light rain.
View attachment 665725View attachment 665727View attachment 665728View attachment 665729View attachment 665769

Nice compact install.

 

[greglarious]

tallbm well, you called it exactly right! After about 40 hours of use the on/off portion of the AC module melted internally. It was extremely fortunate that the result was simply failing to turn on. When I disassembled the module I could see burned and melted plastic. Going with your idea and ordered a 3 foot 14 gauge cord to use for plug and socket. Will order a heavy on/off switch next.

 

[tallbm]

tallbm well, you called it exactly right! After about 40 hours of use the on/off portion of the AC module melted internally. It was extremely fortunate that the result was simply failing to turn on. When I disassembled the module I could see burned and melted plastic. Going with your idea and ordered a 3 foot 14 gauge cord to use for plug and socket. Will order a heavy on/off switch next.

It's an unfortunate reality. I've included some parts here to help you out.

I buy this 40amp marine breaker switch and there is no fear of it failing and honestly for $15 knowing you are set with it, is worth every penny. Finally you drill a hole for the switch part vs needing to cut a rectangle so another easy fabrication win since holes are easy and rectanbles/squares are not :D

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H947FZC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This pack of assorted water proof cable gland joints will have a size that works for your cannibalized power cord:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Glands-Waterproof-3-5-13mm-Protectors/dp/B08GHB2P4X/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3JUY2S9DMX08W&keywords=waterproof+cable+gland+joints&qid=1688965297&sprefix=waterproof+cable+gland+joints%2Caps%2C325&sr=8-5

I hope you have a universal drill bit to get your hole sizes drilled easily.
Let me know if you have any other questions, I've lived this scenario before so might have some answers if you need em :D

 

[BigJim1]

Question, is your 40 amp breaker used as a breaker or just an on and off switch?

One more question, the thermocouple in the 106VH kit, does it have to have anything else added to the end or does it just thread through the smoker body and that is all that is needed. I have ordered this unit for my smoker.

 

[tallbm]

Question, is your 40 amp breaker used as a breaker or just an on and off switch?

One more question, the thermocouple in the 106VH kit, does it have to have anything else added to the end or does it just thread through the smoker body and that is all that is needed. I have ordered this unit for my smoker.

Hi there and welcome!

I use the 40 amp breaker as a switch that I mount to the controller enclosure/project box. It's just a hardcore switch is call.

I don't use the Inkbird-106VH but I looked at the kit. I believe all you do is drill a hole that is just beg enough for the threaded portion of the probe tip to go through, not the built in nut portion.
Then you thread a 2nd nut onto the threaded portion once it is sticking through the hole you drilled. This fastens it to your smoker wall very nice and neatly :)
I personally would squeeze some hi-temp silicon food safe RTV to ensure any gaps were sealed up. You don't want smoke, moisture, etc. being able to seep into the walls and insulation of your smoker if you can avoid it, but it wouldn't be the end of the world if it did I guess :)

 

[BigJim1]

Thanks a ton T, I really appreciate your help on this.

 

[tallbm]

Thanks a ton T, I really appreciate your help on this.

No problem.

After thinking about it a bit. I personally would recommend changing to one of these types of thermocouple probe so you can simply drop it down the vent and clip to the underside of the bottom rack (or any rack) and it is then also moveable:

The thermocouple you have would cause you to:

1. drill through the outer and inner wall of your MES with a hole JUST big enough to fit through, the small tip your thermocouple probe
2. drill again through the outer wall of your MES with a hole big enough to fit through the "nut" portion of your current thermocouple probe
3. drill through/remove enough the spray foam insulation to fit your current probe through the holes and flush against the backside of the inner wall of the MES (not too big of a deal)
4. fasten the retaining nut to the probe so it holds to the MES inner wall. I would also hi temp food safe RTV silicon up at that point to seal things nicely
5. gracefully coverup the bigger hole on the outside wall of the MES and likely seal up with some RTV as well

I slapped together a little image what this would look like (steps 1-3):

I prefer to simply go with a k type thermocouple probe that you can drop down the the top vent and easily move and clip to a rack at any time.
You can also easily more easily remove the controller if you need (though I personally would make an easily detachable probe so I didn't have to drag around a smoke covered probe when removing my controller).

I've drilled on and messed with MES smokers before and if you have all the right stuff to easily do the drilling, sealing, covering of holes, and gracefully handle the wire coming out of the back of your MES, then it's not too hard. Just way more involved :D

I hope this info helps :)

 

[BigJim1]

Thank you for your time to explain this to me, I appreciate it.

 

[tallbm]

Thank you for your time to explain this to me, I appreciate it.

No problem, I'm glad it made sense. Some of this stuff can be hard to describe hahaha.

 

[BigJim1]

You explained it perfectly, thanks again.

 

[BigJim1]

I am in the process of wiring this Inkbird 106VH unit. I am using 110 power. I understand how to wire from power to the unit and to the probe. After all is said and done there are still 4 pins on the back of the controller with nothing connected. #1, #5, #11 and #12

Any idea why these are not used on 110v? Are they for a 220v hookup only?