cleaning meat equipment question

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Smoke Blower
Original poster
Oct 26, 2010
from a food saftey standpoint...  what is the best method for cleaning a meat grinder for example.  was as normal with dishwashing soap?  add a little bleach?

after cleaning the grinder is it ok to oil it a little with vegtable oil to keep any parts from forming any rust?  spray pam?  food grade silicone?

all help is appreciated!!



Nov 28, 2010
I clean mine with hot soapy and a little bleach added in,, use the food grade silicone,,   Vegetable oil can become rancid over time, and will collect dust,, food sprays like pam can also become gummy,, I use food grade silicone,,,Check around for resturant supply stores localy,, you may find better price


Gone but not forgotten. RIP
OTBS Member
SMF Premier Member
Jul 23, 2008
Fort Worth, Tx.
Clean with soap and water first, rinse with plain water second, then sanitize third, all in separate containers or buckets.  Sanitizing solution can be 1 tbsp. bleach to 1 gal. water, let soak for 10 min. then air dry, or straight 3% hydrogen peroxide will work too for spot sanitizing.  Reassemble parts using food grade spray lubricant as necessary; don't use vegetable oils or sprays as they can turn rancid and sticky.  In the meat room we'd let the grinder parts air dry overnight then reassemble the grinder in the morning just prior to turning it on; if you didn't use food grade silicon spray to lubricate the knife and plate they would overheat and cook the meat by the time the worm gear got the first meat to it, then you'd have to tear down the grinder, soap, clean and sanitize, put it back together with lube spray this time and then start your grinds; not only a royal time-waster you could do damage to the plate and knife set enough to have to use a whole new set - I've seen knives chip or plates chewed up, the temper destroyed in the metal, knives so hot they turn blue!  

One of the most important areas to clean and lubricate are the threads between the throat housing and the tightening ring.  Scrub with a fine brush (like an old baby bottle brush, that's what I use) to make sure all meat particles are removed from the threads. If you don't, gunk will build up between the threads and wear down the threads over time until your ring will be so loose you can't tighten it down on the throat, ruining BOTH the throat and the ring and you have to replace both.  My 1 hp. Cabela's grinder is a $400 machine, something I don't want to replace unnecessarily, for sure!
Last edited:


Smoke Blower
Original poster
Thread starter
Oct 26, 2010
thanks for the great info pops!!!

Im new to any meat grinding type stuff.  just made bunny burger last night.  mixed ground alaska hare 50-50 with regular 80/20 ground beef.  everyone loved it!

Im off to find food grade silicone.  have to clean my parts again based on your suggestions...  rather do it right then take any chances!!

thanks again.


Master of the Pit
OTBS Member
Nov 3, 2010
Denham Springs La
 AAAasdfasdfa a  too.....FYI....Bass Pro sells a cleaning kit, I recieved one for Christmas last year. If I remember correctly it came with a can of food grade silicon spray   and all the brushes you will need for a proper cleaning. They sell just the food grade silicon spray   too.....


Smoking Fanatic
Jul 28, 2010
Lafayette, Indiana
Food grade lubricant comes in two types, generally: Tube, squeezes out like gooey toothpaste, and spray. (Look for the NSF logo, if you can.

The spray is "easier" to use, but I like the hands on cleaning I get by using my nylon bristle brush and making sure I get into every nook and cranny.

Here are some hard-n-fast rules:

DO NOT use Vaseline or any other petroleum based lubricant, especially in and around rubber gaskets (the press of a sausage stuffer, forex)

DO NOT use anything like vegetable oil or olive oil. It can and will go rancid, hold bacteria and add a serious off flavor to your food.

ALWAYS consult your manufacturers guidelines FIRST.  

I personally prefer to do things just about EXACTLY what Pops said above. Hot water, as hot as you can stand, bleach for sanitization.  Use your eyes and get it ALL clean.  I also have used my dishwasher, as it can go hotter than what my poor hands can stand. BUT I have also oxidized metal and caused several things to look "funny" from what I do.




Gone but not forgotten. RIP
OTBS Member
SMF Premier Member
Jul 23, 2008
Fort Worth, Tx.
This is what I use, a can lasts me about a year:

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Home  :  Cleaners & Lubricants  :  Haynes Spray

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[h1]Haynes Spray[/h1][h2]$6.25[/h2]
[h3]A USDA approved sanitary lubricant. Helps prevent rust on grinder knives and plates.[/h3]
A USP light duty sanitary oil packaged in handy aerosol spray cans for fast applications on food processing equipment as well as drawer slides, doors, hinges, etc.

Haynes Spray, the U.S.P. Light Duty Sanitary Spray can be used as an oil lubricant on food processing equipment. This sanitary oil can be used safely anywhere a light duty oil is needed in and around the food processing area. Haynes Spray contains no animal or vegetable fats and is absolutely neutral. It will not turn rancid, contaminate or taint food products. It is odorless, tasteless, colorless and non-toxic. Haynes Spray is authorized by the USDA (rated H-1) for use in food processing plants for incidental food contact. All ingredients are FDA approved. Haynes Spray is also NSF accepted.

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Dec 1, 2010
Can I use mineral oil to lubricate the knife & the plates?

Im new to this sight but have been working in the Meat Lab at the University of Idaho for 3 years and the whole time I've been working there we have used Jax, which is a commercial mineral oil, we use it on any high carbon steel piece of equipment whether its the grinder, emulsifier, patty machine or what have it.

We use a commercial disinfectant, but bleach and water would suffice after having had rinsed everything clean, washing with soap, rinsing, then dipping in bleach solution and rinsing again.

Hope my 2 cents helps!

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