brand new Masterbuilt 30" electric smoker -- digital control panel works, heating element does not

[meatheadwill]

Any help is appreciated. I learned a tough lesson--bought this electric smoker "as is" from Overstock Auction--yesterday. the heating element does not work. I checked the resistance / ohms with my mulitmeter and the element from that standpoint seems fine (based on other's posts years ago). I tested the leads that connect to the element and those are not reading 120V. the electric outlet is fine. I've read posts about bad relays, mother board and new control panels. I'm at a loss and disappointed that I fell for the Overstock auction deal. Many thanks in advance if anyone has any suggestions.

 

[Winterrider]

Hang tough, tallbm or dr k will be around soon and walk you through a few things. They've helped many of us.

 

[cmayna]

Hopefully you paid very little for it since it sounds like there's no warranty. And if so, at worst case you could consider getting a external controller such as an Auber. But hopefully someone can help you get it going as is.

 

[dr k]

Any help is appreciated. I learned a tough lesson--bought this electric smoker "as is" from Overstock Auction--yesterday. the heating element does not work. I checked the resistance / ohms with my mulitmeter and the element from that standpoint seems fine (based on other's posts years ago). I tested the leads that connect to the element and those are not reading 120V. the electric outlet is fine. I've read posts about bad relays, mother board and new control panels. I'm at a loss and disappointed that I fell for the Overstock auction deal. Many thanks in advance if anyone has any suggestions.

I got a free Mes 30 on FB Marketplace. Icould hear the relay click after setting temp and time so that was a good sign but no heat. I checked the element wires and they looked good and I had a back up power cord for my PID. I connected it directly to the heating element with the ground wrapped around one of the access screws and tightened and it heated. I cut an access in the back of the smoker to get to the flat safety thermal switch and it was cooroded with a wire sticking up in the air so that was it. I bypassed it with a wire nut since I set my digital pit probe to a range every smoke like 145-290 for an alert.

 

[meatheadwill]

I haven't heard the relay click on the smoker I purchased. I guess I'll check the thermal switch, and report back.

 

[tallbm]

Any help is appreciated. I learned a tough lesson--bought this electric smoker "as is" from Overstock Auction--yesterday. the heating element does not work. I checked the resistance / ohms with my mulitmeter and the element from that standpoint seems fine (based on other's posts years ago). I tested the leads that connect to the element and those are not reading 120V. the electric outlet is fine. I've read posts about bad relays, mother board and new control panels. I'm at a loss and disappointed that I fell for the Overstock auction deal. Many thanks in advance if anyone has any suggestions.

Hi there and welcome!

Chances are the problem is at the overheat safety switch or the circuit board on the under side of the smoker (maybe top controller but not as common).

To get to the switch you may have to cut a panel in the back side of the smoker. Annoying but that part is cheap and melts down so having a panel to get to it anytime is a good thing.

You can see pictures and information about the safety switch here:

MES Safety Rollout Limit Switch Located Here

The MES safety rollout limit switch is a common point of failure so I am making this post to have pictures of it that I can easily find instead of digging up new ones everytime we help someone with this issue. Also adding tags so it's easy to search in SMF and hopefully via Google as well...

www.smokingmeatforums.com

Check to see if the overheat safety switch has melted down or the connectors at the switch are all rusted and corroded away. You can actually unplug the wires off the safety switch and connect them together (make a jumper or wire nut them together) and that should cut it out of the mix to test if it's the problem. The element will hot if you remove the switch from the equation and the element then gets hot

WARNING: If you leave the safety switch out of the mix you are doing thing this of your own accord and are removing a saftey component.


If it's not the switch then it is something at the lower circuit board and those are pretty much impossible to find these days but we can talk about rewiring to cut all of that out and using a PID controller to control your smoker and make it a super performant beast!!!

Let us know what you find :D

 

[meatheadwill]

Thanks for all of your help. I just bypassed the thermal switch and nothing changed. I checked the thermal switch and there was no resistance, so I can probably reuse it if I can diagnose the problem. Tallbm--thanks for your help-it appears that the problem is the circuit board? I have no idea how to check that. Can you help me? Assuming I can confirm that the circuit board is bad, what am I looking at with regard to PID? I briefly looked at PID threads, and it seems like it will be a heck of a time commitment? I don' mind spending a bit more money, but I do mind the time. What kind of time do you think? Again, many many thanks, tallbm!

 

[tallbm]

Thanks for all of your help. I just bypassed the thermal switch and nothing changed. I checked the thermal switch and there was no resistance, so I can probably reuse it if I can diagnose the problem. Tallbm--thanks for your help-it appears that the problem is the circuit board? I have no idea how to check that. Can you help me? Assuming I can confirm that the circuit board is bad, what am I looking at with regard to PID? I briefly looked at PID threads, and it seems like it will be a heck of a time commitment? I don' mind spending a bit more money, but I do mind the time. What kind of time do you think? Again, many many thanks, tallbm!

Flip the smoker onto it's back (preferably onto a table so it's elevated) so you can access the under side. There will be panels. You want to work in the panel that will have a circuit board or a black plastic box that has the circuit board init.

Once you access the circuit board you may notice burns, rust, or busted connectors/components. That would confirm that something is wrong down there but doesn't really help you fix anything. When something is wrong down there your option is to rewire around the circuit board (cut 4 wire ends and wirenut to make 2 wires) or run a cord directly to the heating element.
Then you can use a PID controller. I would buy a fully functioning one instead of building one.

How does the simple rewire and PID controller work???

Once you rewire (or run a cord directly to the heating element) the cord will supply power directly to the heating element but with no control.

You use a PID controller by dropping it's temp prove down the vent and clipping to the bottom rack of the smoker.
You then plug the MES rewired cord into the PID controller and the PID controller into the wall outlet.
You enter the smoking temp into the PID Controller and it will take power from the wall out let and feed to the smoker until the set temp is hit and held. That's it!

For a PID controller you can talk to JC in GB who is making some or buy this Auber PID that will work with any MES unit:

Multi Purpose Controller [WS-1510ELPM] - $159.95 : Auber Instruments, Inc., Temperature control solutions for home and industry

Auber Instruments, Inc. Multi Purpose Controller [WS-1510ELPM] - The WS-1510ELPM is a versatile temperature controller to have in your home. It can be used for various applications such as Sous Vide cooking, controlling an electric smoker, making yogurt, dough proofing, controlling the...

www.auberins.com

Rewiring to use a PID controller is pretty quick and if you buy a PID controller no time spent building one which is more costly with time + materials + tools versus just buying a complete one.

Finally a PID controller may cost some money but is less expensive than a new smoker AND will turn your golf cart of an MES into a Ferrari. It's like a whole new smoker and better than anything you could buy for under $1k



I threw a lot at you so let me know if you have any questions :)

 

[meatheadwill]

wow. Thanks for your help, tallbm! I got lucky with the direct wire--I don't do that kinda stuff in my profession or as a hobby. In any case, the heating element started heating when I plugged it in! woo hoo! I've ordered the Auber PID that you suggested. Should be here in 2 days. I'm a little unclear about the rest of your kind and helpful reply post (again, thank you!). But, I think when the PID arrives, I should be able to figure it out. If you don't mind, I'll post if I can't figure it out and plead for additional help. Thanks again!!!

 

[tallbm]

wow. Thanks for your help, tallbm! I got lucky with the direct wire--I don't do that kinda stuff in my profession or as a hobby. In any case, the heating element started heating when I plugged it in! woo hoo! I've ordered the Auber PID that you suggested. Should be here in 2 days. I'm a little unclear about the rest of your kind and helpful reply post (again, thank you!). But, I think when the PID arrives, I should be able to figure it out. If you don't mind, I'll post if I can't figure it out and plead for additional help. Thanks again!!!

Glad you bypassed it all and have a PID on it's way!

it will all make more sense when you get the PID in your hands.
Here is a post on the Auber settings since their documentation was clearly written in another language and then translated over or something like that.

This should be a huge help to simplify it all:

Setting Auber PID Temp, Time, and Other Values

This has come up numerous times so I figured I would try and write a simple "how to" for doing Auber PID time, temp, and P-I-D settings. Auber makes a great PID, however their documentation and instructions are technical and also likely written by someone that isn't very strong with organized...

www.smokingmeatforums.com