With the Lenten season upon up, eggs in purgatory

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Sounds like a nice meal is forthcoming, Holly. I made eggs in purgatory for years (Ouva in Purgatorio)usually 2-3 times a month, and did so last Sunday for a brunch for 8. If it's not eggs in purgatory, then it's one of it's multi-cultural siblings such as Shakshuka (North Africa/Middle Eastern), Huevos a la Flamenca ( Spain), and, of course, Huevos Rancheros (Mexico). In whatever form, the dish is simple, easy to prepare, very versatile, always well received, and you probably already have most of the ingredients in your pantry.

The recipe you posted, written by Melissa Clark of the New York Times and published in their food section several years ago, is one that I consider a very good "base" recipe for the dish. I say "base" since I always make some alterations to it. Instead of starting with EVOO, I start by rendering and crisping some guanciale or, in the absence of that, pancetta. I add additional oil if needed. I generally follow by adding diced yellow onion, but I sometimes substitute thinly sliced leeks. I normally double the anchovies called for, but when I can find them, I'll substitute small chunks of whole fresh cleaned sardines.

If I want to kick up the heat quite a bit I'll leave out leave out the red pepper flakes and add a generous amount of minced fresh Calabrian hot peppers for a dish commonly called Ouva Fra'Diavolo (Eggs with the Devil), or Ouva All'Inferno (Eggs in Hell).

For the sauce, I simply use a tomato sauce I make in large (20 lb.) quantities every September, which I freeze in pint jars.

For cheese, I substitute grated aged pecorino for the parmigiano reggiano. We like both, but prefer the former over the latter.

Finally, if I feel so inclined, I'll add diced cured black olives, or capers.

Buon Appetito!
 
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