- Aug 7, 2016
- 8
- 11
A couple of years ago I replaced the dead brains in my ~1995 Cookshack #105 with a TA-4 PID and 25 Amp SSR. It worked just fine until a couple of weeks ago. In the middle of the night and the middle of smoking a pork butt, the electric element failed. (Interestingly, I have no idea how long it smoked, but I then put it in an Orion cooker/smoker and it was the best butt ever.)
I ordered a new OEM element. I replaced the element and went on a test. I quickly determined that element came on (at 100%) and stayed on full power. The PID was calling for 0% and showing an over-temperature alarm but the element stayed on. (I read that as the PID and thermocouple are working.)
I re-ordered a new SSR (exactly same as before) with the same results. (I know, “new” doesn’t always work.)
I pulled the SSR and hooked it up to a power/switch a bulb. Results are the bulb comes on and stays on. Even if the trigger (a Radio Shack 12 volt DC power supply) is on/off or disconnected. I got the same results with another (questionable/old) SSR.
I assume the problem is a bad SSR but thought I’d check in case I’m missed something. Thanks Grady
I ordered a new OEM element. I replaced the element and went on a test. I quickly determined that element came on (at 100%) and stayed on full power. The PID was calling for 0% and showing an over-temperature alarm but the element stayed on. (I read that as the PID and thermocouple are working.)
I re-ordered a new SSR (exactly same as before) with the same results. (I know, “new” doesn’t always work.)
I pulled the SSR and hooked it up to a power/switch a bulb. Results are the bulb comes on and stays on. Even if the trigger (a Radio Shack 12 volt DC power supply) is on/off or disconnected. I got the same results with another (questionable/old) SSR.
I assume the problem is a bad SSR but thought I’d check in case I’m missed something. Thanks Grady