RF Trailer Build w/Pics

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jarjarchef

RIP - Gone but not forgotten
Original poster
OTBS Member
Sep 30, 2010
3,155
117
Central Florida
So finally getting the things together for my build.

Here is the tank  will be using. It measures 24"x84".


It was supposed to be built years ago by my Father In Law. It looks like he already cut the top of the door. Not sure if i should be concerned, but it has dirt or sand inside of it. At least I know it wont blow up when i go to cut it.


I was inspired by Ribwizzard and his build. So I am wanting to split and lift as well. I am thinking if I do 14" lift that I can get a total of 4 shelves. 3 the same size and 1 smaller one at the top. Depending on the cooker performance I am thinking the top shelf will be a warming shelf.

http://www.smokingmeatforums.com/t/...erse-flow-hybred-smoker-pit-build#post_857337

So the numbers I came up with are as follows:

Cook Chamber (I ran the center addition and the tank to get an approximate total of 66,205 Cu", so it came to 33"x24"x84" and 66,528 Cu")

Fire Box 34"H x 20"W x 38"L (116.5%) (may tweak this a bit when I get the trailer next to it.)

Chimney @6" Diameter 46" Long (have not found any pipe that size yet) or 6"x6"36" (i have some metal I can fabricate one out of, leaning this way)

Fire Box Inlets 10ea 2"x4" was thinking 5 on each side. The sizes may change a bit as I get into the actual work.

I also have the trailer already. It is an old boat trailer he has had laying around.It is 14' from the wench mount to the back and 69" wide. Plenty of room for storage boxes and 2 burner outdoor fryer station.



These are the tools I get to learn how to weld with. I feel I will be OK as long as I take my time.


Spectrum 875 Plasma Cutting Tool


Millermatic 210 Mig Welder

He has a huge shop and all kinds of other toys to use for the build.

Any tips or advice is very welcome. I am still looking for latches, handles and hinge ideas......
 
Well,

I've learned a lot about adding that section, and am already helping someone do one just like it.

When your ready, just ask, I'll share the do's and donts that I learned from doing mine.

I will say, adding the 12"made this thing huge. To do it again, id probably of just added about 8".

On the handles and such, I already have tons of hours searching for all of that as well, so anything you cant find, I'm sure I can help with that. Just ask.

Good luck.
 
Those toys are perfect for your project................
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TY all.

I understand that it will be big, but I am looking for a very flexable cooker that I can compete with, due family gatherings and even fund raisers with. That is why I decided on a RF and when I saw your build Ribwizzard that sealed the deal for me on what to do. We have a pipe (that is bent a bit) that mesures 30" diameter and about 7' usable in length. I chose not to use it due to the amount of extra materials needed and condition it is is. My Brother In Law came in town and we were talking about it and he cringed a bit when he saw the amount of rust. He dose machine tool & die work and deals with metal all day. So I took that as a sign of not good.

Any directions or tips for the hardware is very welcome. I am looking for a good balance between cost and durability. I don't mind spending a bit more if it means I am going to get a quality product in the end. I am looking at this rig lasting me many years and possibly beyond me. So for me on this build not looking at wood handles or flimsy hinges.

From how both my Brother In Laws reacted to the "Toys" that were aquired in the past few months. I think I will be ok. If the fabrication does not work it will not be due to the tools, it will be the operator. So I am ready to be patcient and redo things if needed. By no means am I going into this thinking it will be easy.

Speaking of tools....have any of you used a steel cutting saw like a  Evolution 230 HDX 9" Metal-Cutting Circular Saw? I have looked at their web site and it looks very interesting. I was on another BBQ Pit building site and the guy running it swore by this style of saw. Not sure if it is worth spending the money or just go with what I have. I think the main reason I am even looking at this is comfort. I have done a lot of wood work and am very comfortable with a circular saw, not so much with plasma cutters.
 
JarJar,

I cut my tank apart with a 7 1/4" circular saw loaded up with a 1/8" wide cutoff disk. If it is not lined up correctly when you start out, it is difficult to correct. BUT if you get it right and keep it right (check your work every few inches and correct early) you will get a very good cut. I used a smaller angle grinder to make the smaller cuts...  I went this route because I wanted a cleaner cut than the oxy/acetalyne rig could do freehand. I am now looking for a guide that I could rest the cutting torch against to make smooth clean cuts around a tank radius. If I locate this guide, I will use the cutting rig. If you could locate this guide, the plasma cutter would be the way to go...

You have the beginnings of a great build. And RibWizzard's experience to draw on. You are well on your way. Please keep us posted.
 
If you plan on using a torch to cut the door out you will need to weld strong backs in place as you go along to stop the door from warping then grind them off when the door has cooled and remove the door

Joe
 
The trick to using a circular saw and metal blade is not to set the blade to deep.. if you set it all the way down you will have the whole width of the blade in the cut... so when this happens you will not be able to turn the saw any to stay on the line... Just set the blade about a half inch deep, then you will have a little forgiveness for a slight turn...

As far as a straight edge to use the Plasma cutter... If you have a straight piece of thin angle iron, you can tack weld that on to use as a guide... for the rounded cuts (top to bottom).. cut some relief cuts (about an inch apart) on one side of the angle and then it will bend around the curved part of the tank... tack weld it in place and then make your top to bottom cuts... If you use this method I would do the side to side cuts first before making the relief cuts in the angle... just a couple of tips and tricks
 
My thanks to Old #7, I love it when I get schooled...

JarJar, You the MAN, thanks for the kudos.

You both are in Florida as well as RibWizzard. Great Folks all of you!!!!

Please send me some rain!!!!
 
Well today had a couple set backs. One is a financial one, well an unexpected bill came up and need to use a good chunk of what I had set aside for the build. The other was the trailer I was planning on using was too rusted. But that one is an easy one to solve. We have a trailer that was used for a 20' bass boat. I will be using it. The only issue I see is the springs are mounted to the frame. Will have to see how the whole thing balances out before I stress over it. But compared to other things that will be an easy fix..
 
Got the trailer moved and put into place to start working on it. Got less done then planned. I am using my Father-In Laws stuff and space, so while I was working on my project and he was working on a couple tractors that customers needed done. He needed a couple extra hands and when he asks, I must stop. It is his stuff and space.

A few pics of the starting point






Removed axle, springs and wood runners


Cut off the mounts for the rollers and wood runners. Also removed all of the old wiring.


Have started to grind smooth.

Note to self: It is easier to cut the weld then to grind it....


Over the next week or so my goal it to get it sanded and the barrings replaced.

Safety Note: Do not put your hand down on metal you just ground. Even if it is to get up from the ground. It will hurt just a little.
 
Did a little more today. It's been a long 10 day work stretch and with the kids playing sports it has been very little me time. Oh well that is life....

I ground down the last of the roller brackets. I am leaving the 2 in the back for now. I like how the lights mount to them and want to modify them for my use. Thinking of in-casing the lights to protect them a bit.

Removed the black non-slip tread stuff they had. That was a mess.....

Removed the fenders. Too rusted to repair and we are looking at going with a 15" or 16" rims in place of the 14" we have now. So I will use one of the spares we have to mock up the size needed and use the 14" till I find the right deal on 3-4 allow rims...

Sanded the outside of one rail for the frame and the decorative steps. Put a coat of Rustolium automotive primer on it to keep from rusting. I will re-prime the whole thing once done. I don't have the kids next weekend, so Friday will be a long work day on it. Hoping to have the trailer frame and suspension done then. We have a small sandblaster, so my brother-in law is going to show me how to use it tomorrow. I am not able to get into some tight spots and this should help a bit..

The tag for it was last registered in 95'... not an old trailer, but has seen a few miles...

Hard to see, but the steps and rail are sanded down.



Sanded and primed.


 
You may need a bigger bucket... this one will take some time.... I am finding out that I am not the fastest at this metal work thing....but I can not wait to do my first cook on this thing.... It will be awesome to say I made the food and what I cooked it on.....

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Looks like I am on a long delay. After my truck breaking down 3 different times and other things needing money. My build funds were reallocated to pay for them. So we wait and continue to work on the trailer in the mean time.

I will say that sandblasting is a very interesting adventure....
 
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