PID setup in MES with cut cord

[wesir]

There was some shipping damage to my MES 340G and they had me cut the power cord so they can warranty it, anyone know how hard it would be to splice an extension cord directly into the junction box? Thanks

(edit) forgot that dr k gave me instructions when I had temp issues a few weeks back, any additional info would be useful
"You can get a 14 or 12 gauge extension cord and solder on a couple high heat connectors on the white and black wires. Strip the green ground wire and wrap around one of the element access plate screws to ground chassis. Plug this cord into an Auber PID. "

 

[sprky]

For me it would be no problem being an electrician. I dont have a MES so I dont know how there set up/ wired, to offer advice on how to go about this. Maybe if I saw a few pics I could offer some advice.

 

[chopsaw]

You can buy a section of a 3 prong cord at Lowe's or Home depot . You can then wire that directly to the element , or do the re wire to keep the limit switch in the circuit . I like keeping the limit , just in case . Either way , then plugs into the PID .
Look in the electrical isle , by where they sell the pig tail hook up for an electric dryer .

 

[sprky]

Found this video on the masterbuilt. Its for trouble shooting the masterbuilt and replacing the heating element. But ya can also figure out how to replace the cut cord. all ya need is a extension cord cut the female end off run it in just like the cut one came out, attach a couple quick disconnect connectors and plug them in color for color. EASY PEASY. Hope this helps.

 

[Steve H]

Follow the wire back to its termination point. And attach the new pig tail. Keep it at least 14 ga wire. Simple thing to do.

 

[sprky]

Look in the electrical isle , by where they sell the pig tail hook up for an electric dryer .

Yes these work as well. However a lot of the time a short extension cord is cheaper, just depends ya have to look at both. The unit draws aprox 10 amps at full power. so a 16 gauge cord will work, but a 14 would be better. me personally I would use a 14 with high temp 90 deg fully insulated quick disconnect connectors

 

[wesir]

I removed the back panel, here's some images, I assume green is ground, white positive, and black negative. Seems like I would attach the ground of the old plug to the screw where the current ground is connected, as for the heating element it's connected via spade terminals to 2 red wires, is this one of the cases where positive/negative are interchangeable or were they just lazy with wire color?

Current plan is to maybe drill a hole in the backplate to feed the old cord through and adding some silicon or something to keep moisture out, also wondering what a good way to secure the cable on the inside would be to prevent tugs from disconnecting the elements, maybe a bracket? Thanks

 

[Winterrider]

Something similar from hardware store or just secure a zip tie very tightly on cord inside of cover plate.

Insulated Cable Clamps

Insulated Cable Clamps

www.wiringdepot.com

 

[wesir]

Something similar from hardware store or just secure a zip tie very tightly on cord inside of cover plate.

Insulated Cable Clamps

Insulated Cable Clamps

www.wiringdepot.com

Thanks

 

[wesir]

Turns out I was being dumb, I flipped the unit over and was able to splice the old power cable back in where the cutoff section was attached and was able to do the board bypass the normal way. On a side note the white wire was a bitch to get off the board and I ended up having to clip it off and crimp on a new connector.

 

[tallbm]

Turns out I was being dumb, I flipped the unit over and was able to splice the old power cable back in where the cutoff section was attached and was able to do the board bypass the normal way. On a side note the white wire was a bitch to get off the board and I ended up having to clip it off and crimp on a new connector.

Hi there and welcome!
I was going t suggest that you simply cut a 16 AWG outdoor rated extension cord and just splice it to the where you cut off the old cord :)

NOW, if the unit doesnt work with the existing controller and electronics then check out this post on how to easily rewire the MES to bypass the existing controller and electronics to make the unit "dumb" where when plugged it all it does is heat up. You would then need to get a 3rd party controller like the Auber PID and it would measure the smoker temp and cut power on/off to the smoker to reach and hold whatever temp you set on the Auber PID controller.

Let me know if this makes sense :)

Rewire Post here:

MES Rewire Simple Guide - No Back Removal Needed!!!

Lately I've seen a number of posts about guys wanting to rewire their MES. I had wanted to post a quick and simple guide for those out there that are curious or those that simply need to rewire but need a little assistance. Well here goes. Disclaimer: When messing with electrical equipment...

www.smokingmeatforums.com

 

[wesir]

Hi there and welcome!
I was going t suggest that you simply cut a 16 AWG outdoor rated extension cord and just splice it to the where you cut off the old cord :)

NOW, if the unit doesnt work with the existing controller and electronics then check out this post on how to easily rewire the MES to bypass the existing controller and electronics to make the unit "dumb" where when plugged it all it does is heat up. You would then need to get a 3rd party controller like the Auber PID and it would measure the smoker temp and cut power on/off to the smoker to reach and hold whatever temp you set on the Auber PID controller.

Let me know if this makes sense :)

Rewire Post here:

MES Rewire Simple Guide - No Back Removal Needed!!!

Lately I've seen a number of posts about guys wanting to rewire their MES. I had wanted to post a quick and simple guide for those out there that are curious or those that simply need to rewire but need a little assistance. Well here goes. Disclaimer: When messing with electrical equipment...

www.smokingmeatforums.com

Yup, once I wired the old section of cord back in I was able to follow Auber's instructions on how to bypass the controller and it seems to work, didn't have to drill a hole or anything. PID arrives tomorrow and then I can work on calibrating it, then I just need assemble my mailbox mod and wait for the crazies to stop buying up all the ground beef so I can make another batch of snack sticks. Depending on how the first cook goes I might look into getting the Auber fan as well.

 

[tallbm]

Yup, once I wired the old section of cord back in I was able to follow Auber's instructions on how to bypass the controller and it seems to work, didn't have to drill a hole or anything. PID arrives tomorrow and then I can work on calibrating it, then I just need assemble my mailbox mod and wait for the crazies to stop buying up all the ground beef so I can make another batch of snack sticks. Depending on how the first cook goes I might look into getting the Auber fan as well.

Glad to hear you are getting settup!
You know in TX lots of the bigger cuts of meat have been available and on sale.
If you get a decent little grinder you can buy brisket and chuck roasts (have been on sale and are available still) as well as pork butt/shoulder and you can grind those cuts to make sticks and sausages.

Even at $2.99-$3.99/lb that is comparable or lower price to 80/20 ground in may places so you are basically getting your ground beef at equal or lessor price BUT you gotta grind it yourself. Often you will find the quality is better so its really turns out to be rewarding.

Pork butts have been $1.47 or less here for weeks now so u grind those for all pork sticks or sausage and/or you can mix with beef to make it stretch further. Texas style sausage (European roots) usually has a mixture of beef and pork... along with Texas influence and the sausage is amazing!

Anyhow, just some food for thought in these odd times.

 

[chopsaw]

Yup , got a butt thawing now . Had burgers from brisket grind yesterday . That's just to good . When this clears up , I'm grinding a whole brisket for burgers .

 

[tallbm]

Yup , got a butt thawing now . Had burgers from brisket grind yesterday . That's just to good . When this clears up , I'm grinding a whole brisket for burgers .

I've got a frozen 14-15 pound brisket I need to defrost and do something with. I normally smoke brisket so maybe I'll start defrosting it on friday to maybe be able to smoke it early/mid week next week. I think the weekend rain should clear up by then so it gets smoked.

 

[Lonzinomaker]

"I removed the back panel, here's some images, I assume green is ground, white positive, and black negative. Seems like I would attach the ground of the old plug to the screw "

Green is ground, White is common (negative) and Black is Power-Positive. If you wire white as positive you can have an open circuit that could cause problems.