MES 30" Digital - Multiple Problems

[PhillyJim]

Hi All,

Found this site yesterday as I was trying to smoke a small brisket in my MES 30 (haven't used it since the spring) and ran into a few issues. I think I've found most of the solution in other posts, but wanted to just confirm.

1. After plugging in and turning on, the MES tripped two different GFCI outlets. I was able to plug it into a non-GFCI outlet and get it to work, but not sure where to look for the fix to this, though it may be part of what I end up doing below.

2. I have an Inkbird WIFI temp probe and had one probe in the brisket and one as an ambient monitor in the smoker. With the MES set to 230, the ambient probe consistently read > 250. Not a big deal, but not ideal. I did have the ambient probe mounted on a rack above the brisket (while the PID controller probes, according to this site, state to place the ambient probe at the bottom). The temp on the controller never really got to 230, and I've seen posts on the opposite problem (MES not getting up to temp). I've pulled the trigger on an Auberin AW-1520H to replace the MES controller so I'll install that once it arrives. Not sure if there's something else I should be looking for here.

3. Several times during the cook, the unit shut off and took a few seconds to come back on. Luckily I was close by to reset it once I saw ambient temps start to fall. It sounds like a bad temp switch (rollover, whatever). I've ordered a replacement ceramic switch, but don't have an access panel for this on the back. One thing I didn't see in the discussions of replacing this is how to best close the hole in the back after I've cut into it...

I have an access panel in the lower back (which looked fine when I opened it up). Haven't looked at the panel underneath, yet. If I do the wiring mod for the PID controller (I believe that's in the underneath access panel), will that bypass the temp safety/rollover switch or should I still replace that?

Where's the best place for me to look for the grounding issues (from #1) above, if that's not fixed by the PID controller mod?

Thanks, everyone! I'm so glad I found this site!!

P.S. The brisket still came out pretty good - I just ended up finishing it in the oven, after I wrapped it, instead of trying to get the MES to hold through the rest of the cook...

 

[normanaj]

tallbm is very knowledgeable with the MES as is chopsaw .One or both will certainly chime in and get you all set up.

 

[tallbm]

Hi All,

Found this site yesterday as I was trying to smoke a small brisket in my MES 30 (haven't used it since the spring) and ran into a few issues. I think I've found most of the solution in other posts, but wanted to just confirm.

1. After plugging in and turning on, the MES tripped two different GFCI outlets. I was able to plug it into a non-GFCI outlet and get it to work, but not sure where to look for the fix to this, though it may be part of what I end up doing below.

2. I have an Inkbird WIFI temp probe and had one probe in the brisket and one as an ambient monitor in the smoker. With the MES set to 230, the ambient probe consistently read > 250. Not a big deal, but not ideal. I did have the ambient probe mounted on a rack above the brisket (while the PID controller probes, according to this site, state to place the ambient probe at the bottom). The temp on the controller never really got to 230, and I've seen posts on the opposite problem (MES not getting up to temp). I've pulled the trigger on an Auberin AW-1520H to replace the MES controller so I'll install that once it arrives. Not sure if there's something else I should be looking for here.

3. Several times during the cook, the unit shut off and took a few seconds to come back on. Luckily I was close by to reset it once I saw ambient temps start to fall. It sounds like a bad temp switch (rollover, whatever). I've ordered a replacement ceramic switch, but don't have an access panel for this on the back. One thing I didn't see in the discussions of replacing this is how to best close the hole in the back after I've cut into it...

I have an access panel in the lower back (which looked fine when I opened it up). Haven't looked at the panel underneath, yet. If I do the wiring mod for the PID controller (I believe that's in the underneath access panel), will that bypass the temp safety/rollover switch or should I still replace that?

Where's the best place for me to look for the grounding issues (from #1) above, if that's not fixed by the PID controller mod?

Thanks, everyone! I'm so glad I found this site!!

P.S. The brisket still came out pretty good - I just ended up finishing it in the oven, after I wrapped it, instead of trying to get the MES to hold through the rest of the cook...

Hi there and welcome!

1. This could be an issue with the insulation layer of the heating element. Mine does this so I just run it on a non-GFCI outlet since I can run the cord easily through a doggy door. Could be an issue somewhere else but I'm not sure how best to figure all this out as my is not technically grounding out and works fine on the non-GFCI so I don't worry about it lol

2. That auber will definitely get the job done for any MES30 or MES40 so you are good with that model. You will need to do the simple rewire which is noted in detail here https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/threads/mes-rewire-simple-guide-no-back-removal-needed.267069/
if you are lucky you will simply have the 2 white clip version were you just swap the clips but if not you cut ends off 4 wires and wirenut to make 2 whole wires and you have now wired around the MES circuit board and controller.

3. This thread will show where your safety limit switch is located on the inside and basically it is then on the flip side of the smoker but usually under a metal box you have to unfasten once you cut into the back sheet metal: https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/threads/mes-safety-rollout-limit-switch-located-here.320444/
If you cut into this shape you can peel left and right and then seal again with flue tape or duct tape or just fasten a square of sheet metal over the cut/hole you make :D
Start with the vertical blue cut and then make the black cuts and peel in the direction of the arrows.

The rewire will be done in the underneath panel where you will find a black plastic box (likely has that box). Use a very very very small head flathead screw to unfasten the screws in the lid of that black plastic box as they are some weird "Y" shape but a small flat head can span it well enough.

Then you can do the rewire per the link posted above in point #2.

You'll love how the MES performs once rewired and on a PID. It hits and holds tightly.
Finally, I place my probe under the center of the lowest rack and it response the fastest there for me and my PID run MES40. Ask any questions you have and we'll get you squared away :D

 

[chopsaw]

After plugging in and turning on, the MES tripped two different GFCI outlets.

2 things cause this . 1 would be moisture somewhere it shouldn't be , the other is a low ohm reading on the element .

If it trips the GFCI as soon as it's pugged in / turned on it's probably moisture .

If it starts and runs for a bit then trips the GFCI , it's the element . Low resistance allows the current to return to fast , cause the GFCI think there is a leak to ground . Which trips the circuit .
800 watt MES 30 should ohm out around 18 .

Since yours runs on a normal circuit , I'm thinking it's the element .

 

[PhillyJim]

2 things cause this . 1 would be moisture somewhere it shouldn't be , the other is a low ohm reading on the element .

If it trips the GFCI as soon as it's pugged in / turned on it's probably moisture .

If it starts and runs for a bit then trips the GFCI , it's the element . Low resistance allows the current to return to fast , cause the GFCI think there is a leak to ground . Which trips the circuit .
800 watt MES 30 should ohm out around 18 .

Since yours runs on a normal circuit , I'm thinking it's the element .

Hi there and welcome!

1. This could be an issue with the insulation layer of the heating element. Mine does this so I just run it on a non-GFCI outlet since I can run the cord easily through a doggy door. Could be an issue somewhere else but I'm not sure how best to figure all this out as my is not technically grounding out and works fine on the non-GFCI so I don't worry about it lol

2. That auber will definitely get the job done for any MES30 or MES40 so you are good with that model. You will need to do the simple rewire which is noted in detail here https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/threads/mes-rewire-simple-guide-no-back-removal-needed.267069/
if you are lucky you will simply have the 2 white clip version were you just swap the clips but if not you cut ends off 4 wires and wirenut to make 2 whole wires and you have now wired around the MES circuit board and controller.

3. This thread will show where your safety limit switch is located on the inside and basically it is then on the flip side of the smoker but usually under a metal box you have to unfasten once you cut into the back sheet metal: https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/threads/mes-safety-rollout-limit-switch-located-here.320444/
If you cut into this shape you can peel left and right and then seal again with flue tape or duct tape or just fasten a square of sheet metal over the cut/hole you make :D
Start with the vertical blue cut and then make the black cuts and peel in the direction of the arrows.

View attachment 707338



The rewire will be done in the underneath panel where you will find a black plastic box (likely has that box). Use a very very very small head flathead screw to unfasten the screws in the lid of that black plastic box as they are some weird "Y" shape but a small flat head can span it well enough.

Then you can do the rewire per the link posted above in point #2.

You'll love how the MES performs once rewired and on a PID. It hits and holds tightly.
Finally, I place my probe under the center of the lowest rack and it response the fastest there for me and my PID run MES40. Ask any questions you have and we'll get you squared away :D

Thanks! Once I get all of the pieces, should be fairly easy...

 

[PhillyJim]

2 things cause this . 1 would be moisture somewhere it shouldn't be , the other is a low ohm reading on the element .

If it trips the GFCI as soon as it's pugged in / turned on it's probably moisture .

If it starts and runs for a bit then trips the GFCI , it's the element . Low resistance allows the current to return to fast , cause the GFCI think there is a leak to ground . Which trips the circuit .
800 watt MES 30 should ohm out around 18 .

Since yours runs on a normal circuit , I'm thinking it's the element .

It was definitely not a soon as I was plugged in, but was shortly after it turned on, sounds like it would be the element like you described.

If I put a PID in place, since the MES plugs into the PID and the PID into the outlet, would that resolve the issue? The other option that I read (can't remember where when I started looking into this) is to use a 3prong to 2prong converter and take the ground out the picture...I might try that and then plug it into the PID...

 

[chopsaw]

If I put a PID in place, since the MES plugs into the PID and the PID into the outlet, would that resolve the issue?

Won't fix a low ohm reading . Do you have a multi meter or a way to check the resistance ?
Would be good to know what shape the element is in . You can get a decent meter for around 30 bucks .

to use a 3prong to 2prong converter and take the ground out the picture...I might try that and then plug it into the PID...

Don't do that . Probably won't work anyway , but don't do that .

 

[PhillyJim]

Won't fix a low ohm reading . Do you have a multi meter or a way to check the resistance ?
Would be good to know what shape the element is in . You can get a decent meter for around 30 bucks .

Don't do that . Probably won't work anyway , but don't do that .

I should have a multimeter around. I'll take a look when I get a chance....If it's low ohm, does that mean replacing the element?

 

[Fueling Around]

An element that trips a GFCI after heating is leaking current to a ground. Most of the time it is negligible as a shock hazard, but within the 3-5 milliampere threshold of a GFCI. If allowed to continue it will eventually burn out the element.
Just replace the element and be done with it.

...
is to use a 3prong to 2prong converter and take the ground out the picture...I might try that and then plug it into the PID...

Bad idea. You turn into the ground path.

 

[chopsaw]

..If it's low ohm, does that mean replacing the element?

Yes . The fast return of the current in a low ohm condition tricks the circuit into thinking there's a leak to ground .

If it trips the GFCI right away , it most likely means a leak or transfer to ground due to moisture or corrosion somewhere .
Since it runs for a bit then trips , that makes me think low ohm / resistance . Mine was at 5 ohms for a long time , when it dropped to 2 it would trip the GFCI . Should be 18 .

If you're thinking of doing the rewire and adding an Auber controller , and the limit switch , go ahead and do the element if money allows . You'll be all set then .