PID for MES

[muddydogs]

Also it would be a good idea to cut and make a panel to access the Safety Rollout Limit switch. The same crappy connectors are used on it and seem to be the other major connector failure point.
Replacement stock limit switches are the following, I suggest a 5 pack because they are fragile and can be damaged when putting connectors on the tabs:
[/QUOTE]

Question on the above switch, do they cut of at 194 degrees? Not sure I'm understanding the nomenclature right on the switches but from what I gather they would shut the power off at 194?

I'm thinking we would want something more like this that shuts off at 135 C / 300 F.

 

[tallbm]

Also it would be a good idea to cut and make a panel to access the Safety Rollout Limit switch. The same crappy connectors are used on it and seem to be the other major connector failure point.
Replacement stock limit switches are the following, I suggest a 5 pack because they are fragile and can be damaged when putting connectors on the tabs:
Question on the above switch, do they cut of at 194 degrees? Not sure I'm understanding the nomenclature right on the switches but from what I gather they would shut the power off at 194?

I'm thinking we would want something more like this that shuts off at 135 C / 300 F.

OOPS!:oops:

This is the one that goes to 302F.

Thanks for letting me know I posted the wrong temp level roll out limit switch. I'll correct it in my previous posts so bad info isn't sitting out there in the world :)

 

[muddydogs]

Thanks for the posts and help on this PID deal. My Auber WS-1510 showed up today so I put the MES on its side and rewired it. My newer Gen 2 unit has screws on all the access panels so that made it easy to get into everything. Of course my wires and controller are different then what has been pictured but I had enough info to figure out what wires were what. I ended up taking out the control board and plastic box it was in and just tucking the wires back in the hole under the access panel. I did find the white wire off the plug in cord was just hanging on the male spade connector and not seated tight from the factory.

Quick pic of the bottom of my smoker.

 

[tallbm]

Looks like this modification helped you find a defect in the stock wiring. See the PID approach is already paying off :)
I'm glad you got rewired. I hope it all turns out well :)

 

[dr k]

Thanks for the posts and help on this PID deal. My Auber WS-1510 showed up today so I put the MES on its side and rewired it. My newer Gen 2 unit has screws on all the access panels so that made it easy to get into everything. Of course my wires and controller are different then what has been pictured but I had enough info to figure out what wires were what. I ended up taking out the control board and plastic box it was in and just tucking the wires back in the hole under the access panel. I did find the white wire off the plug in cord was just hanging on the male spade connector and not seated tight from the factory.

Quick pic of the bottom of my smoker.

My WS-1510ELPM will be delivered 1.16.18 and I will do tallbm four cut, two splice smoker bypass from the bottom panel when I switch to the PID but for now the Mes controller is fine. Auberins sent me a chart on manual PID settings for 4 & 7qt. slowcooker, ricecooker etc. settings to turn them into sou vide cookers which I'll test on my 7 qt. crockpot before the smoker. You can do an auto tune or use this chart and compare what you like best. I'll put this chart in the sou vide forum as well but it is not for the WS-1510ELPM. To convert to the 1510 divide the P column by ten so the bottom line of the chart says Bradley smoker so to convert to P=7, I=600, D=150. These are the paramenters of the 1510 out of the box. So for my 7 quart slow cooker the 1510 would be set to P=18, I=700, D=40, for the 4 qt. slowcooker would be P=5, I=60, D=15 etc. Just remember these cookers need to be analog not digital or have membrane touch controllers. Only a dial to set to high, med. or warm. Set it to high unless otherwise stated in the table.

 

[dward51]

I would just put a pan of water to simulate the meat mass you mostly intend on smoking inside the MES, and then run an "auto tune" cycle on the Auber. Should be good to go after that.

The table is general guidelines. The auto tune is specific to your smoker and conditions (ie, meat load). If a 1 degree heat range mattered for BBQ, then constant adjustment might be important. But smoking meat is a somewhat forgiving process. The minor temp swings you might get from a PID that was auto tuned for a load of snack sticks or jerky will not be enough to worry about if running a full smoker of pork butts. The precision of a PID is so much overkill for this use you basically need to get it running and tuned once for your smoker and "for-gedd-a-bout-it" after that.

 

[muddydogs]

I ran mine doing nothing to the controller first off, had the set temp at 200, PID hit 175 and started its slow cycle deal so I called Auber and they told me were to set the P, I and D settings but said if that doesn't seem to work well then auto tune. Well there settings were still letting the smoker stop 25 degrees short to cycle on and off to get to the temp. I ran auto tune this morning with a pan of water which only took 30 minutes to an hour, not sure exactly as I was rolling a fatty. In a couple hours I'll fire it back up and see how it warms up, once warm it holds the temp within 1 degree.

One elk burger, elk breakfast sausage, green chili, onion and smoked cheese fatty on the menu for dinner.

 

[dr k]

I guess I didn't clarify in my post above, with the PID table, that I will not be using the WS-1510ELPM for a smoker controller yet because the Mes controller is acceptable. The post above is all about awareness for others that invested $150.00 in this PID. That the table is for sou vide with cookers in the table that most have in their home and you can find other applications other than the smoker whether you auto tune or try suggested settings from Auber.

 

[cmayna]

muddydogs,
I love my Auber controller. Yes, I always use it's probe. since the smoker which the Auber is associated with, is used mainly for fish, I do not use it with high temps. Highest temp will typically be at around 150*.

 

[tallbm]

I ran mine doing nothing to the controller first off, had the set temp at 200, PID hit 175 and started its slow cycle deal so I called Auber and they told me were to set the P, I and D settings but said if that doesn't seem to work well then auto tune. Well there settings were still letting the smoker stop 25 degrees short to cycle on and off to get to the temp. I ran auto tune this morning with a pan of water which only took 30 minutes to an hour, not sure exactly as I was rolling a fatty. In a couple hours I'll fire it back up and see how it warms up, once warm it holds the temp within 1 degree.

One elk burger, elk breakfast sausage, green chili, onion and smoked cheese fatty on the menu for dinner.

Word of advice.
Try keeping your probe on the bottom rack. Center of the rack on the bottom side of the rack is where I keep mine.
If you keep it there then you can basically get more consistent readings.
Auto tune with it like that and you should be golden.

Going forward use a dual probe thermometer where 1 probe will then be used to double check your smoker temp at meat level and the other probe will go in the meat. Doing this will give you the best temp readings for you to understand how your smoker is heading. THEN you smoke on the bottom rack as much as possible since it is the most well controlled level of the smoker.

Know that you will not get the same temp across all racks in an MES and you won't get the same temps from left to right along a single level of racks. I think this is just the limitation of the MES design including the element design.

What I have noticed though is that you should CONSISTENTLY get the same ballpark temps in the various levels and positions of your smoker going forward so no more wild temp changes all over.

I have done a few things to try and reduce the temp differences between racks and along a single rack but I have concluded that it is just the nature of the MES design.
My attempts to reduce the temp differences have been to:
1. Install a convection fan to stir the air and help keep it as evenly heated as possible all around the inside of the smoker
2. I made a wooden space reducer shelf. Basically it's a board of birch wood cut to fit in the MES on top of the rack holder bars. The idea is to trap heat as much as possible between the heating element and the space under the board. Hahahah simple and stupid but I believe it has been effective

Anyhow be patient at first and keep playing with it until you get it sorted out. This is the same kind of tinkering you do with any kind of smoker anyhow and then you get your system and quirks dialed in for amazing bbq :)

 

[muddydogs]

Wasn't that hard to figure out the temp, I removed the slant tray and placed a cookie sheet on the bottom rack or on a rack using the chip loader and slant rack screws for support if I need the height. As for smoking I find and it makes sense that getting the product off the burner further up the smoker will help even out the heat so if I have a small load I place it in the second and third rack, I have 6 racks. Just smoked a fatty today on the third rack position with my PID temp sensor on the back of the rack and 4 temp probes on the rack, each side, front and next to the PID probe and all probes read within a couple degrees of each other. I want to know the temp where my product is not on the bottom rack were its the hottest.

Had the smoker full last weekend with my 6 probes spread out through the smoker and I didn't see any huge temp differences in the smoker, ya maybe 5 or so degrees which matters very little in the grand scheme of things.

To each there own but having smoked for 15 years with a propane smoker has taught me that small temp differences are of little consequence to the grand scheme of things.

 

[tallbm]

It seems that you have it down and are holding good temps all around. Can't ask for much more :)
The good stuff will be flowing for sure now :)

Next up for me is about 15 pounds of ground Venison Pastrami sandwich meat (done in loaves) and then I'll take about 10 pounds of pure 100% ground Venison (no fat added) and make some jerky. I can't wait!!! :)

 

[muddydogs]

It seems that you have it down and are holding good temps all around. Can't ask for much more :)
The good stuff will be flowing for sure now :)

Next up for me is about 15 pounds of ground Venison Pastrami sandwich meat (done in loaves) and then I'll take about 10 pounds of pure 100% ground Venison (no fat added) and make some jerky. I can't wait!!! :)

I'd like to see the Pastrami when your done, it sounds good.

 

[tallbm]

I'd like to see the Pastrami when your done, it sounds good.

I'll post a pic of the new batch. Here are pics and the link to my original post about it all. Enjoy :)
https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/threads/pastrami-loaf-with-qview.263815/

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• tallbm
• Jun 19, 2017

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• tallbm
• Jun 7, 2017

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• tallbm
• Jun 7, 2017

 

[muddydogs]

Well I guess the next batch on antelope snack sticks is going to have to wait as I'm using my last 5 pounds of antelope to make your pastrami loaf. Wasn't looking forward to stuffing the 16mm cases anyway.

I'm going to have to try one change to the recipe and use pork fat since I purchased to much after hunting season and still have 10+ pounds in the freezer. Might be a little porky but we'll see.

 

[tallbm]

Well I guess the next batch on antelope snack sticks is going to have to wait as I'm using my last 5 pounds of antelope to make your pastrami loaf. Wasn't looking forward to stuffing the 16mm cases anyway.

I'm going to have to try one change to the recipe and use pork fat since I purchased to much after hunting season and still have 10+ pounds in the freezer. Might be a little porky but we'll see.

Awesome, please do report back! Another tweak you may want to make is to add some binder. I discovered that after freezing and defrosting, the slices break a little too easily for my liking. This time around I'm going to add 2% Soy Protein Isolate because I have it on hand. Many use Non Fat Dry Milk (NDFM), I'm lactose intolerant so I'm avoiding it.

You won't be dissapointed in the seasoning flavor and though you are using pork fat I'm sure it will still taste great just porky as you say rather than a little beefy. I too have a bit of pork fat I need to use up so I'm eager to see how it comes out :)