Newly purchased Masterbuilt 1050, first smoke - running in to issues

[2Scoops]

Hello all -

First time smoker here and just purchased an MB1050. Pretty pumped for my first pork butt planned for tomorrow. I went through the seasoning steps yesterday and ran in to some concerns that I'm not sure what to do about. Here's what I've experienced:

Seasoning session 1:

• Using a Signals unit that has been tested using the ice and boiling water methods, I attached this to the middle grate during the first seasoning session
• I set the 1050 to 250 degrees and at first the probe registered 20 degrees higher than grill which is fine and somewhat expected
• During a 60 minute period, the probe went as high as 325 and as low as 190
• The MB fan ran inconsistently during this time
• Several times the grill itself dropped well below the set 225 temp, as low as 190
• Several times the temp on the grill seemed to be static near 225 but the signals probe kept dropping pretty low
• After 60 minutes I set the grill to 400 for 30 minutes where the probe had highs of 475 and a low of 367

Seasoning session 2:

• Same Signals unit this time attached it to the highest grate in the center
• Grill temp set to 350 for 30 minutes
• Probe temp ran as high as 398 and as low as 274. At the low point the fan was not running.
• Opening all the doors and latches seemed to make the fan kick back on

I'm happy to provide further details if there are questions but I'm trying to figure out how do I plan to smoke a 9lb butt if the fan isn't regulating the heat? I've read about bad switches and latches, could that be my issue? Any thoughts from current owners?

Thanks all!

 

[Chasdev]

What did the onboard temp sensor indicate on the display?
All ovens use average temp, not pinpoint specific temp readings taken at one point.
Do the same test to your kitchen oven and see what happens.
It turns on and off over and over.
It is possible that your factory temp sensor is not working properly, if it were me, I would contact customer support from the Masterbuilt web page and let them know (in a brief paragraph) what you see on your temp sensor.

 

[2Scoops]

What did the onboard temp sensor indicate on the display?
All ovens use average temp, not pinpoint specific temp readings taken at one point.
Do the same test to your kitchen oven and see what happens.
It turns on and off over and over.
It is possible that your factory temp sensor is not working properly, if it were me, I would contact customer support from the Masterbuilt web page and let them know (in a brief paragraph) what you see on your temp sensor.

Thank you for responding.

The onboard temp sensor was all over the place. Sometimes it stayed where I set it but other times it would dip 20-30 degrees below for no reason and the fan wouldn't cut on to raise the temps. I registered the grill this morning on the MB website and waiting for that to be go through so I can get support. Going to call them as well.

 

[Chasdev]

Once you register you can fill out a support request, in fact it's on the same page, right side!
They will send an email reply in a day or two at most, which should allow you to let them know exactly what's going on.

 

[2Scoops]

Yep, I filled out a support request and they responded by saying they are sending me a new temperature probe. I never mentioned the probe and, in fact, the original one is still in the wrapper. I replied to the email saying that's not it but no response yet. I'll follow-up by phone if I don't hear something.

 

[rexster314]

This is the first mistake people do when comparing an instant read thermometer that is not pid controlled against an on board temp readout. The controller works just like your home oven. You set it at 350, but in reality the temps vary widely both up and down. Do this: put your Signals probe in your home oven and see what happens.
The PID controller on the MB "smooths" those swings out. The drop in the temp on the controller most likely is the result of the charcoal not feeding properly and the temp failed. More than likely MB is sending you another ambient probe to replace

 

[2Scoops]

This is the first mistake people do when comparing an instant read thermometer that is not pid controlled against an on board temp readout. The controller works just like your home oven. You set it at 350, but in reality the temps vary widely both up and down. Do this: put your Signals probe in your home oven and see what happens.
The PID controller on the MB "smooths" those swings out. The drop in the temp on the controller most likely is the result of the charcoal not feeding properly and the temp failed. More than likely MB is sending you another ambient probe to replace

Thanks for the reply and I'm trying to understand. I get the reality of an oven or the MB not being a static temp. It swings up and down. But, wouldn't the fan come on in an attempt to raise the temp once it drops to 30+ degrees lower than what it's set? Or, if not, is there a way to know what the triggers are to make sure it's working properly? I'm going to attempt to upload pics from the Signals tomorrow to show you the swings. If it's normally that's great!

Again, appreciate the response!

 

[Chasdev]

All I can add is that my 560 temp control is super reactive, if I the set temp is 250 and it goes to 245 the fan blows for a few seconds and the temp goes right back up.
When I did the initial burn in I sat there for an hour (with a cold one in hand) and played with the temp settings and was amazed at how fast it would change temp, within a few seconds of a change in set temp the fan would blow and the readout would show what I had dialed in.
I must have changed temp settings dozens of times during the burn in from max temp to minimum temp and the response time was very short.

 

[2Scoops]

All I can add is that my 560 temp control is super reactive, if I the set temp is 250 and it goes to 245 the fan blows for a few seconds and the temp goes right back up.
When I did the initial burn in I sat there for an hour (with a cold one in hand) and played with the temp settings and was amazed at how fast it would change temp, within a few seconds of a change in set temp the fan would blow and the readout would show what I had dialed in.
I must have changed temp settings dozens of times during the burn in from max temp to minimum temp and the response time was very short.

Appreciate the input! Mine definitely does not do that. It can drop 25-30 degrees below the set temp and the fan not turn on. Based on your experience, any idea what could be wrong?

 

[whistlepig]

One of the most impressive things about my 560 is it's ability to hold a constant temperature.

Start up on a gravity series is a slow process. It takes a while for the charcoal in the hopper column to get going. I always do a 700 degree burn off every time I start mine up to clean the grate and prevent a flareup. The only thing that will survive a 700 degree burn off is the Masterbuilt probe. I have an Inkbird remote but the probes won't survive 700 degrees.

Remotes are a great tool. However the thickness of the meat and placement of the probe can cause variations in the readings. Two different probes in two different chicken breasts of the same size can be off by 20-30 degrees. I have trusted the 560 temperature readings and it really is a good set up. When smoking or grilling a standard needs to be maintained to repeat a good recipe. Really there is nothing better on the face of the earth for grilling or smoking than a Thermopen. It's the end result that count's and a Thermopen is the best tool for this. Of all my temperature checking methods my Thermopen has the final say.

 

[rexster314]

Thanks for the reply and I'm trying to understand. I get the reality of an oven or the MB not being a static temp. It swings up and down. But, wouldn't the fan come on in an attempt to raise the temp once it drops to 30+ degrees lower than what it's set? Or, if not, is there a way to know what the triggers are to make sure it's working properly? I'm going to attempt to upload pics from the Signals tomorrow to show you the swings. If it's normally that's great!

Again, appreciate the response!

I would check the charcoal hopper when the temp starts decreasing. Sometimes the charcoal will bridge, causing the stoppage of the charcoal feeding properly. You can also do a check on the door switches first my making sure each sensor is fully seated in the back of the controller. Still no joy? Get a small bladed auto fuse 5 amp or less, remove the wires from one sensor switch one by one. If the fan comes on you'll know it's the sensor switch. Keep checking until you've checked all three sensor switches. While you're checking wiring, check the fan wiring at the fan mounting.

 

[2Scoops]

I'm about 3.5 hours in to my first smoke and there definitely seems to be some inconsistencies with the switch by the ash bin. Temp set at 225 and it got down to 190 without the fan kicking on. I opened and closed the door and it kicked on immediately. Since that point it's holding pretty well.

 

[rexster314]

I'm about 3.5 hours in to my first smoke and there definitely seems to be some inconsistencies with the switch by the ash bin. Temp set at 225 and it got down to 190 without the fan kicking on. I opened and closed the door and it kicked on immediately. Since that point it's holding pretty well.

Spray a little WD40 into the switch. Sounds like it might be sticky

 

[2Scoops]

Yep, I'm going to mess around with the latches and switches once the cook is over and everything cools. I've had to open/close the door several times to get the fan to kick on at times. I can't tell if that's the only issue or if there's also a misfire between the control panel and the fan.

That said, I've officially reached stall territory. 9 hours in to the cook and IT is about 155. Don't want to wrap it so going to see what happens. I kicked the temps up to 250 to give it a nudge.

 

[912smoker]

Any updates ?

 

[2Scoops]

The last 4 hours it held temps really well. No wrapping the entire time, no spritzing, just a slight bump in temps to help with stall. My charcoal run rate held true to what is advertised. Got about 8 hours out of a full hopper.

I pulled it off around 200 when the probe had no resistance and the bone jiggled freely. . Wrapped it for an hour to let it settle and just finished eating. It was very good. Needed a bit more smoke but otherwise really solid. Bark was good (maybe slightly chewy) and had a great smoke ring. Very happy with it for my first time smoking. Pulled very easily by hand. I used apple wood which I've heard is a bit milder. Next time I'll add a little bit of hickory .

Even my picky 9 year old son loved it! Really appreciate everyone's help along the way!

Butt - 7 lbs, 15 oz - weight after trimmed and fat cap removed
Rub - Killer Hogs Butt Rub w/ mustard as a binder
Sauce - Killer hogs vinegar sauce
Water pan for first 3 hours then removed
Total time on smoker was about 12 hours between 225 and 250

 

[912smoker]

Sounds great !
Before each cook , press and release each swith repeatedly for 30 secs or so. And spay with contact cleaner if available. You can also do this during the cook if needed.

 

[2Scoops]

Sounds great !
Before each cook , press and release each swith repeatedly for 30 secs or so. And spay with contact cleaner if available. You can also do this during the cook if needed.

Thank you! BBQ quesadillas are on the menu today. Going to try ribs and gouda mac next weekend!

 

[RCAlan]

2Scoops, as 912Smoker recommended, use only Electrical Contact Cleaner on the switches that you’re having issues with. Spray the switches stem and the contact connectors within the switches just a little. Push the stem in and out a few times and then allow to dry. Give it a few minutes and then they should be good to go. You can get some Electrical Contact Cleaner like this at Home Depot for about $6.00.

Then depending on how often you bbq, use the contact cleaner once or twice a month as a regular cleaning maintenance routine. Also a another help tip is to cover the switches with a piece of aluminum foil to help keep out any moisture, smoke and debris. Place a small hole in the center of the foil to allow the switches stem to move freely. I know this all may seem like extra work, but when you’re dealing with electrical gadgets interacting with the basic operations of a Bbq grill, then keeping the switches clean becomes a very important part of the process.
FYI… I would never recommend using WD-40 on electrical switches. I believe Rexster314 was only trying to be helpful in his recommendation on using WD-40 on the switches…. Here’s a good read about using WD-40 on electrical switches. https://www.goldwingfacts.com/threads/never-use-wd-40-for-electrical-connections.366596/

Good luck with your new MB 1050 and post back on how everything works out.

__________________
Char-Griller 980 GF… Pellet Pro Austin XL and a few more mods... In SoCal and Always... Semper Fi

 

[2Scoops]

2Scoops, as 912Smoker recommended, use only Electrical Contact Cleaner on the switches that you’re having issues with. Spray the switches stem and the contact connectors within the switches just a little. Push the stem in and out a few times and then allow to dry. Give it a few minutes and then they should be good to go. You can get some Electrical Contact Cleaner like this at Home Depot for about $6.00.
View attachment 509814

Then depending on how often you bbq, use the contact cleaner once or twice a month as a regular cleaning maintenance routine. Also a another help tip is to cover the switches with a piece of aluminum foil to help keep out any moisture, smoke and debris. Place a small hole in the center of the foil to allow the switches stem to move freely. I know this all may seem like extra work, but when you’re dealing with electrical gadgets interacting with the basic operations of a Bbq grill, then keeping the switches clean becomes a very important part of the process.
FYI… I would never recommend using WD-40 on electrical switches. I believe Rexster314 was only trying to be helpful in his recommendation on using WD-40 on the switches…. Here’s a good read about using WD-40 on electrical switches. https://www.goldwingfacts.com/threads/never-use-wd-40-for-electrical-connections.366596/

Good luck with your new MB 1050 and post back on how everything works out.

__________________
Char-Griller 980 GF… Pellet Pro Austin XL and a few more mods... In SoCal and Always... Semper Fi

Thanks for the recommendation. I might actually have some CRC in the garage already from an earlier project. I'll definitely give that a try. Appreciate it!

BBQ quesadillas were amazing too.