New Dyna-Glo vertical offset smoker

Discussion in 'Charcoal Smokers' started by surgtech2006, Mar 22, 2015.

  1. View attachment 342468 Mock up of minion divider proved well so did my final build yesterday since it was nice. Haven't layded out for a while and went old school -drill and fill.
    View attachment 342466
    After burn off figured why not-
    Smoke dry Japs, Cayenne and Red Caribbean's. 12hrs over Stubbs/pecan/mulberry
    +/- 4oz
    View attachment 342466
  2. 20171028_154544.jpg
    Beats me?
  3. truman

    truman Newbie

    Can you tell me where you sourced the insulation?
  4. I've had the wide body version for about a year and a half now and it's the hardest darn thing to smoke with. I recently installed a new door temp gauge, had to get a new smoke stack and RTV'd the seam between the chamber and firebox. I also added a piece of sheet metal to help spread the heat from the firebox.

    This is my first smoke on it since then. I am having a heck of a time with temps, and always have with this thing. I'm doing a turkey and a duck today, and for the better part of 4 hours, I've been lucky to get the temp to 250 for more than 30 minutes in total. The first hour was down near 200 or below. I just put more charcoal on and some more wood and it's 225-230 and won't get higher. It burned through most of the whole filled basket of charcoal in about an hour and a half.

    I've had to resort to putting a fan in front of the firebox with the dampers all the way open, and still can't get to 260+

    I've attached a few pics - notice the large gap at the seam - this just happened today. The chamber warped and the RTV melted through. I pulled off what I could to keep it from ruining the food. There was a bad smell there for a bit. I've tried to block the hole with wood, but it keeps catching on fire as the flames wick out.

    I'm about ready to chuck this thing in the trash :(

    There's no water in the pan, it's just there to keep the duck from dripping over the turkey

    Attached Files:

  5. wahoowad

    wahoowad Smoke Blower

    I didn't see this when I first read your message, and I kept thinking it seems like you don't have enough draft. So maybe you blocked off your airflow somehow? Make sure that smoke stack is wide open. Having to blow air in the side sure seems like you aren't getting much draft.
  6. Well, I've got it on a covered deck (despite the post a few above about how bad of an idea this might be), and the location and orientation means it doesn't get a lot of air flow from wind. However, this fan is a beast and blows very hard even on low. Smoke stack was open the whole time. I could typically get it cranked to 300 with forced air, but it was hard to hold it - yesterday I had a heck of a time holding 250 for more than 10 minutes. Yes, it was a bit cold outside too (40s).

    Even before my mods, I can't get wood to actually catch and hold a fire unless I supplement with forced air. This is opposite my char-griller barrel grill, which I use to smoke smaller things - no offset. I have trouble keeping the wood from flaming too much. Both are setup on the same side of the deck, with the intake on the same side.

    I am wondering if the addition of the metal plate to the smoke chamber caused that much of a reduction in flow? I did finally prop the hanging end up some with a block of wood but didn't seem to make much of a difference. I added the metal because I was noticing a large disparity in temps between the right side (nearer the firebox) and the left side - sometimes a difference of 30-50 degrees, especially if I was able to get a fire going with the wood.

    I also think that may have something to do with the warping that occurred. I suppose I can drill a hole there in the middle and stick a third screw through to try to warp it back.
  7. wahoowad

    wahoowad Smoke Blower

    Maybe put a pan of water or sand on the lowest grate to force air/heat to flow differently and remove or relocate that plate. It seems a draft or combustion issue to me. Coals look hot enough though.
  8. Before you toss it, acouple questions and comments.
    Was the firebox sealed to the cc during assembly?
    What smoke stack change did you make?
    By your pics of the fb it appears the sealant was applied after the fact and heat leakage cooked it causing the failure.
    If it wasn't sealed pre-assemble alot of your heat is leaking at the mating of fb and cc probably causing your lower temps.
    In the pic of your diffuser plate, at your connection point, the steel definitely looks overheated which coincides with your warping area probably from the heat leakage.
    Your diffuser plate looks well thought out with hole pattern but really shouldn't extend below invert of top opening into cc. It appears in the pic it extends down pretty low which might be slowing your airflow causing your fb to overheat hence sealant failure and warping.
    As far as wood ignition problems, its definitely low airflow.
    The smoker was designed to run with no diffuser/tuning plate and a 2"(1 7/8" actual) exhaust (not chimney) and flow changes to it will affect preformance. All is not lost, and you can easily fix the problems your having. Plenty of good info in this dyna glo topic about the same problems. Grab a beverage, take a deep breath and you'll get it.
    If you still want to toss it, send it to me, i'll pay the
    After my mods (posted in topic),plate, upper secondary air intakes, fb to cc sealing, fb door sealing,seam sealing , 3"w×4"h chimney and minion divider I can average 5+ hrs @235*+/- on a load of charcoal and burn wood cleanly. With some thought out mods it can be run efficiently. Good luck
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2017
  9. No. At the time I had a lower temp gasket maker (400f) and I was worried about using it on the fb.

    OEM replacement. I managed to break the plate off the axle on the original.

    It did fine until the warping happened. That said, if I were to apply at assembly, wouldn't it still get cooked from the inside?

    Possible. Before applying the rtv, only minimal smoke was escaping, but there was some.

    This definitely makes sense. However I see others in the thread that appear to have done similar but laid the plate at a 45 degree angle, and without holes. I would expect my current setup to reduce flow much less than the others.

    No doubt. I wonder if I had it on the ground where it had better access to drafts if that would resolve itself.

    I've not noticed much difference in performance with the smokestack open or closed. What are your experiences?

    Lol, no doubt. Others are having success so its obviously possible.

    Thanks for such a detailed reply, I really do appreciate it. I've added a couple more stainless screws to fix the warp. I did reseal the fb/cc seam as well, and will prop the end of the diffuser so that its horizontal. Will see how it goes.
  10. I've not noticed much difference in performance with the smokestack open or closed. What are your experiences?
    -Mine was never used, but the plate only closed 75% and has 1/4"+ space between plate and wall so effectiveness I feel would have been minimal as you have seen.
    It did fine until the warping happened. That said, if I were to apply at assembly, wouldn't it still get cooked from the inside?
    -The sealant is sandwiched between the fb and cc. The heat flows thru from fb to cc not allowing any loss. By just sealing gap, when it warped from heat loss it pulled away thats why it came off in that area. I opted to use nomax with additional ss bolts as seen in post #285. Extra hardware will help. But a proper Fay seal will eliminate any heat loss and you'll be done with it. Plenty of instructionals here in topic.
    This definitely makes sense. However I see others in the thread that appear to have done similar but laid the plate at a 45 degree angle, and without holes. I would expect my current setup to reduce flow much less than the others.
    - Here's my plate, 35* w/a 5*+ return to assist flow. Another pic in post #311. 20170909_131657.jpg
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2017
  11. How's this holding up for you? Can you take a few more pics? I'm thinking of trying something similar. Thanks.
  12. kejtar

    kejtar Newbie

    Woohoo! My smoker just came in..... I have read this thread twice and I will start by insulating the fire box to the smoker, insulating the firebox doors (the smoker doors are already insulated) and I will add wheels.....

    Now regarding seasoning - the instructions say season for a short period at fairly low temp while others here seem to have indicated that higher temp and longer time period is advised.... thoughts?
  13. Since I figured i'll get to see how the smoker reacts to air adjustments I filled the basket(left a void), dumped 2/3 chimney in void, ran it up to +/- 200*, choked it back til ran at temp for about a hour as seasoning oil heated. Bumped to 235* held 265* held then to 325* till it stopped smelling like a deep fryer, about 30 min +. Then choked it down to 200* to simulate low fuel temp drop. Then dropped some wood on to see how recovery worked. Figured I do it on seasoning run and pretty much been running it the same. Brushed on thin coat of canola oil and used several types of wood.
  14. wahoowad

    wahoowad Smoke Blower

    I'd use it as a test drive to see how well it heats and holds temps. That means firing it up, getting the smoke going (I have to crank my propane up at the start to get the smokewood going), then back it down as needed to cruise at 225 orc250.
  15. kejtar

    kejtar Newbie

    I just finished the assembly and I am a bit perplexed - it says to use 6 bolts between the firebox and the smoker body yet there are only 4 places to use the bolts at.... am I missing something?
  16. There are 6 bolts to mate. 2 underneath , 2 inside bottom, 2 inside top.
    I added additional hardware just to tighten up mating surface and strengthen connection.
  17. kejtar

    kejtar Newbie

    Thanks! Found it... Wasnt easy to install them as the holes were a wee bit off and I have siliconed pretty nicely the surfaces between the fire box and the smoker box.

    For all those that are sealing with silicone - please remeber to put on a bead, let it set for 20 minutes and then mate surfaces. This allows for the silicone to set a bit and not get all squeezed out.
    After the surfaces are mated let it sit at finger tight level on all bolts for another 10-15 minutes and then fully tighten.

    In any case - tomorrow I will set it on fire... Or rather set the charcoals on fire ;)

    Btw - the charcoal box is kinda flimsy/cheesy..... Probably going to have to upgrade it....

    Last thing - airflow control on the fire box.... Gonna add some springs there as its very loose.
  18. kejtar

    kejtar Newbie

    So - tightened the fire box slider a bit too much.... couldn't move it when thhings got hot!!!! Forgot that metal expands ;)

    On a different note - no leaks anyplace I assembled but I did have a slight leak from the upper right hand side of the door (right at the corner). Gonna have to look and see if I can reshape the factory gasket or if I will have to add something at the corner.

    Lastly - 250 F for nearly 2 hours with half a box of coals
  19. Try adjusting you cc door clamp if you hadn't already. On mine, the top right corner weld wasnt complete leaving a small hole which I sealed. There is alot of thermal expansion on the rear of fb as you've seen. I had to adjust my springs loose to compensate for expansion so there was still play when hot. You'll get it.
  20. kejtar

    kejtar Newbie

    Actually what happened is that the door got "stuck" to the fire box wall. The nuts and bolts were loose enough to move but the slider was just stuck. When the FB cooled down I had to pry it away from the wall and then it started moving.... Weird...

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