New Dry Curing Chamber Build...42cu.ft. stainless double door

[indaswamp]

Some pro tips if you have never installed rivet nuts...

Use the correct drill bit. Install the rivet nut with the rivetnut ON the flaring tool. You should have to FORCE the rivet nut into the hole by lightly tapping it with a hammer. Do not push it all the way flush if installing on thin plate. You need the gnarled area to grab as you tighten (so the rivetnut does not spin) and it does not go all the way to the rivet collar.

The rivet nut will pull in tight as it expands and compresses in the hole. If the rivetnut starts to spin as you tighten, stop and grab a small piece of wire. Push the wire under the collar with a flat screw driver to pull the rivetnut out slightly for the gnarled area to grab. once you make a few 1/4 turns on the wrench, pull the wire out and continue tightening the rivetnut down to seat it flush.

It does help to lubricate the bolt in the flaring tool nut.

All 16 new rivet nuts installed...

The bottom row is original and will not be used...since I am raising the brackets 4".

 

[indaswamp]

Won't be long now!!
And I can't think of anyone who would put it to good use any better!!
Be Back!
Like.

Bear

Thanks Bear! Been a good week for me with all my parts arriving daily. This project is coming together nicely now that I can start doing some real work on it...but will still be another 2 weeks or so before it is totally completed. Second coat of paint goes on Saturday, then has to dry for another week.

 

[JC in GB]

So nice that parts are coming in. Your build is looking great so far. That is going to be a spectacular cabinet.

JC

 

[indaswamp]

Lunch update:
got the holes drilled in the C channel for the casters. Sitting on go waiting for the aluminum angle to arrive so I can cut the pieces and fab, the tray. If that does not happen until next week, that's O.K. as second coat of paint won't be dry until next Saturday anyways.

After checking and rechecking my measurements, I went ahead and cut the baffle plate. Needed a sheet 46 7/8" wide X 49" tall. Took that over to my buddy's shop while his guys were on lunch break and used his plate bender. Took my time as thin 5052 aluminum plate has a lot of flex in it when you try to bend it. Only overshot the bend by about 1/8"...good enough...the plate will flex.

Took it home and set it up on an old sheet of plywood I had laying around for test fit with one of the radiator/fan assemblies. Perfect fit.

I grabbed a big sheet of cardboard from the shop for a pattern. Gonna make a pattern first in case I need to move some holes, then transfer to the aluminum sheet for final cutting. The plate should be installed this weekend. Then the layout on the cooling system can begin!

 

[indaswamp]

After lunch, I made the pattern for the cuts in baffle plate. Went to the shop for 4:30pm when his guys knocked off and used the Miter saw to cut the 45*'s on the angle I bought. Will weld that up one afternoon next week; My buddies son will weld it for me one afternoon, I'll do the fitting. Only gonna cost me some snack sticks and beer...

So that's a wrap on today's progress. Hope to get the plate holes cut tomorrow and install, second coat of paint on the freezer box Saturday, fiddle with the cooling system components Sunday afternoon. Might have it 90% complete by end of next week.

 

[indaswamp]

So the thin 5052 aluminum plate has some scratches on it from sliding in and out of the bender. I am going to do a brushed finish to clean it up...but there are a few tricks to make it look nice. Will post the steps for anyone interested....

 

[Fueling Around]

Shaping up well.
Happy to see you are getting the major components.
You are getting a bit retentive if you need to burnish your sheet aluminum.
Friends are so important to get it done.

Some pro tips if you have never installed rivet nuts...

Using the correct riv-nut is the first step. They are sized (depth) based on the thickness of the material as the anchor. I cannot go by your photo but appears they are for thicker metal.
Gun drivers have a serrated tip to keep the nut from spinning. Well worth the cost to rent versus the manual tools.

 

[indaswamp]

Using the correct riv-nut is the first step. They are sized (depth) based on the thickness of the material as the anchor. I cannot go by your photo but appears they are for thicker metal.

Noted... I used the size of the original installed. Heavy gauge for load bearing. I am going to add a length of 2" aluminum c channel to the bottom of the bracket to contact the floor to help with load bearing as the original installation contacted the floor.

 

[indaswamp]

You are getting a bit retentive if you need to burnish your sheet aluminum.

You are right...it's one of those small thing...I'll be looking at that sheet every time I open the door.

 

[indaswamp]

Well worth the cost to rent versus the manual tools.

I had no idea they rented rivetnut tools....definitely would have made it easier than a manual tool. But it got the job done.

 

[Steve H]

Some pro tips if you have never installed rivet nuts...

Use the correct drill bit. Install the rivet nut with the rivetnut ON the flaring tool. You should have to FORCE the rivet nut into the hole by lightly tapping it with a hammer. Do not push it all the way flush if installing on thin plate. You need the gnarled area to grab as you tighten (so the rivetnut does not spin) and it does not go all the way to the rivet collar.
View attachment 630383
The rivet nut will pull in tight as it expands and compresses in the hole. If the rivetnut starts to spin as you tighten, stop and grab a small piece of wire. Push the wire under the collar with a flat screw driver to pull the rivetnut out slightly for the gnarled area to grab. once you make a few 1/4 turns on the wrench, pull the wire out and continue tightening the rivetnut down to seat it flush.
View attachment 630384

It does help to lubricate the bolt in the flaring tool nut.

All 16 new rivet nuts installed...
View attachment 630385

The bottom row is original and will not be used...since I am raising the brackets 4".

You could have just used a thin washer to shim it out so this doesn't happen. Spent a couple years as a tin knocker apprentice. Before I decided to be an electrician.

 

[indaswamp]

You could have just used a thin washer to shim it out so this doesn't happen. Spent a couple years as a tin knocker apprentice. Before I decided to be an electrician.

Great tip... I thought the plate was thick enough to give the rivet nuts grab. Maybe I should have asked the SMF brain trust for ideas before starting!!! LOL!!!

 

[indaswamp]

My apology to all the pros for using the term "pro tips" loosely....I am no pro, as a pro would definitely have used a rivet nut gun! LOL!

 

[Steve H]

Great tip... I thought the plate was thick enough to give the rivet nuts grab. Maybe I should have asked the SMF brain trust for ideas before starting!!! LOL!!!

lol! I remember the first time I used those. Did 50 of them. Shrouding for an expansion joint mold. Then got soundly corrected by the journeyman for me not seeing the problem and asking questions!

 

[Steve H]

My apology to all the pros for using the term "pro tips" loosely....I am no pro, as a pro would definitely have used a rivet nut gun! LOL!

Nah, I have one of those around here someplace. They're fine for occasional use. You'd have the same problem with a rivet gun. Not to mention the rivet gun would probably cost more. And no offence takin here! Because I'm not a pro. Someone that calls themself a pro worries the hell out of me!

 

[indaswamp]

Not to mention the rivet gun would probably cost more.

If money was not an issue enough to buy a rivet nut gun....hell I would have just bought a damn maturing chamber instead of refurbishing this old freezer!!!LOL!!!!

 

[indaswamp]

Just goes to show ya there are always different ways to do things, and there is always something to learn. Thanks for the discussion Steve...good stuff...

 

[Nefarious]

Ha, ha, ha. This is the part of diy projects that I like the most. Learning new stuff that one might get to use in a future project.

 

[indaswamp]

Took two tries, but got the pattern made for the baffle plate. First one I taped the kraft paper in place and the tape moved as I was marking the holes. So.....second try I used some fender washers and bolts to pin the paper down in place firmly.

Also used an exacto knife to mark where the slots are for the shelves. Bingo....that did it. Wanted to have it cut today, but having to redo the pattern set me back. Will cut in the morning, then once it warms a little I will apply second coat of paint to the freezer box.

 

[Fueling Around]

You could have just used a thin washer to shim it out so this doesn't happen.

I've used backing plates to prevent pull out, too.