MES Rewire Simple Guide - No Back Removal Needed!!!

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Thanks! Plugged it in to confirm element Had power, waited about 10 minutes and then Unplugged it. I went ahead and set up the
Wi-Fi on the Auber, then I had to go run a couple errands. I’ll be back home in about an hour to try and finalize the set up and get it going.
 
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Plugged it in to confirm element Had power, waited about 10 minutes and then Unplugged it. I want to head and set up the Wi-Fi on the Auber then I had to go run a couple errands I’ll be back home in about an hour to try and finalize the set up

Awesome!
I would be very eager to read a full review/write up on the Auber with Wi-Fi once you play with it for a while and if/when you decide to do a write up. You would be the first and inquiring minds want to know :)
 
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I planned on it, looks to be fun:emoji_fingers_crossed:
Awesome!
I would be very eager to read a full review/write up on the Auber with Wi-Fi once you play with it for a while and if/when you decide to do a write up. You would be the first and inquiring minds want to know :)
 
Bought the WS-1510ELPM . I love this thing . Always had good luck with my MES 30 , but what a difference this makes .
I'm finding shorter cook times so far . Guessing because no more falling temps .
Used it the other day to smoke a ham I cured . Temps in the 20's . Smoker set to 200 worked great .
Next day did a pork loin . Cold and windy again . Smoker set to 260 . Struggled to reach cook temp .
So running in PID mode , I set P=1 , I=0 , D=100 . No more struggle . Ran up to temp , with a faster recovery response .
Part of what you pay for with this model is the tuning / programming .
Skip the flow charts , Understand what each letter does and the number assigned to it , greater or lesser will increase or decrease the operation .

Also , may or may not know the the ambient reading on the sensor can be calibrated . Access code is 155 . Entered value is + / - whatever offset you need .
Starts at page 11 section 5.2 in the directions I have if you're interested .

So I received my Auber Controller yesterday and started messing around with it. I initially did a test run with P=1, I=0, D=0, but I was still seeing about 10* +/- temp swing. So I switched it up to the P=1, I=0, D=100 that you mentioned here and that keeps me at about 2* +/- temp swing, and I can totally live with that. In fact I have the dried beef in the smoker right now. What I really love is the 6 steps you can set up on this thing. Following Bears instructions for dried beef, I set the 140*, 160*, 180*, and 200* for the times he noted. So long as it does what it is supposed to do, I don't have to go out and mess with anything until my bluetooth thermomter tells me everything is done.
 
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Good deal . Happy you have it going . Yeah , the step up is awesome . Alot of settings and adjustments on that . I read thru the manual a little at a time . I think you will love it .
 
So I received my Auber Controller yesterday and started messing around with it. I initially did a test run with P=1, I=0, D=0, but I was still seeing about 10* +/- temp swing. So I switched it up to the P=1, I=0, D=100 that you mentioned here and that keeps me at about 2* +/- temp swing, and I can totally live with that. In fact I have the dried beef in the smoker right now. What I really love is the 6 steps you can set up on this thing. Following Bears instructions for dried beef, I set the 140*, 160*, 180*, and 200* for the times he noted. So long as it does what it is supposed to do, I don't have to go out and mess with anything until my bluetooth thermomter tells me everything is done.

Sounds awesome that you are dialed in and running! Chop has you well covered with the numbers.
Once you figure out that you have to get drunk and stand on your head to read the setting instructions and make sense of them, you can get the Auber setup, working well, and never touch it again hahaha.

Welcome to the world of the PID!!!!! :emoji_sunglasses::emoji_blush:
 
Hi all, I have a MES 130P from Lowes, it has the top heat element for searing, Am I able to do a rewire with this option? Is there a PID out there to control that element also? Not sure if I can post links but here is the model.

Thank you

https://www.lowes.com/pd/masterbuil...MIj4HX5qTr4QIVDY7ICh1jyQ7kEAQYAiABEgKZxPD_BwE
Without knowing the wiring setup with the new broiler element you could probably just get a 14-16 guage power cord and do Auber Instruments fix which is high heat female spade lugs on the hot and neutral and a cirle lug on the ground wire. Access the bottom element and disconnect the two wires and connect the custom power cord and ground to one of the plate screws/chassis you removed. Keep the Mes power cord unplugged and plug the custom cord into the PID. For smokes with broiling to finish connect original Mes element wires and run the Mes controller for the top element. It seems this would work. I stripped the rubber off the access plate and stretch the holes over the screw heads for a cover and can peel one half open for quick inspections on the connectors periodically. You could remove the six screws and terminate the ground wire to the top center plate screw and leave it there and swivel open the access plate to connect which ever lugs/power cord you want to use.
 
Hi all, I have a MES 130P from Lowes, it has the top heat element for searing, Am I able to do a rewire with this option? Is there a PID out there to control that element also? Not sure if I can post links but here is the model.

Thank you

https://www.lowes.com/pd/masterbuil...MIj4HX5qTr4QIVDY7ICh1jyQ7kEAQYAiABEgKZxPD_BwE

Hi there and welcome!

So there are a few answers to your question and you will want to consider what behavior your are looking for in the end.

Answer 1: Yes you should be able to do the rewire the same way as in my post BUT you would lose the use of the broiling element if you did it the exact way as in my post.

Answer 2: I don't think there is a PID designed specifically for dealing with the broiler element separately. In theory you could just run 2 PIDs, one for each element but I imagine running 2 PIDs in this fashion would be a chaotic tuning nightmare hahaha.

More Answers and Approaches: You should be able to do a number of different things with your wiring to work with the 2 elements but it all depends on the behavior you want.
dr k has mentioned an approach for you to take that would work.

Another approach I would pitch would be to rewire so that both elements run off a single PID. This means that when you set your smoker to 250F that the PID would feed power to both elements at the same time and you would get both top and bottom heat!!!
Then when you want to broil you just up the PID temp to like 500F (or whatever the supported broil temp is) and you get a broil from both directions!!!
The downside (if there is one) is that you get two elements always working at the same time vs being able to control each element individually. Also I'm not sure what the Amperage pull would be when running both elements this way but there is a chance that this approach simply pulls too much power and flips the breaker or needs NOTHING but the smoker running on that breaker.

Another approach I'll mention is to wire up the broiler and the smoker cooking element up so that the PID feeds power to them BUT also wire in a switch to direct which element will get the heat. This approach means you only ever run 1 element at a time but when you want to broil you just flip the switch to direct power to the broiler element and you then increase the PID temp for broiling and now the top element is running to broil while the bottom element cuts off.

Really your wiring configuration options are not limited by anything but what the smoker temp limits are and what the Amperage pull is for the breaker the smoker is running on.


I like all the flexibility you have to work with and I think you can probably get the behavior you are looking for!!! Let me know if this makes any sense and gives you some ideas on what is possible. :emoji_blush:
 
TY ill have to take it apart to see whats in there, not very good with the electronics tho. :)

A multimeter is basically a must have to figure out what you can/can't do :)

If you can run the multimeter continunity check (very simple), cut wire, splice wire, and crimp connectors you can basically do everything you need to in order to rewire your setup and get what you want.

No matter what you decide just be safe and it is always best to consult an electrical professional (Disclaimer statement here hehehe).
 
TY for all of the info!!! Ill give it a try

Be sure to keep in touch so we know how it goes with this new model of MB smoker.
In my mind you are the guinea pig for this stuff.

Also, what is the max temp the new smoker supports now that it has a broiler feature? I can't seem to find that info anywhere.
 
TY for all of the info!!! Ill give it a try
I don't know how the mes sensor runs the top element being on the ceiling or if it's a timer. I heard it's the top or bottom element not both on at the same time. A switch where the bottom element has two leads to a switch then on the switch side has two hot and neutral contacts for the custom power cord and mes stock element wires could be a quicker switching from PID to mes contrller and leave the ground terminated to the screw on the custom power cord. Temp swings and failing mes controllers get people to PIDs. What is your experience with this smokers swings? Until we know more about this new controller wiring with the new 5 chip/chunk burner settings, rotisserie and top element etc. This is the most simple mod for a bottom element PID I could think of. Maybe use this smoker for awhile to get it down in all areas first as it's intended then let us know the pros and cons before mods.
 
Be sure to keep in touch so we know how it goes with this new model of MB smoker.
In my mind you are the guinea pig for this stuff.

Also, what is the max temp the new smoker supports now that it has a broiler feature? I can't seem to find that info anywhere.

I think I read 275. Honestly the broiler feature isnt a deal breaker for me, I bought this thing for the BT feature, come to find out it sucks and doesnt connect 1/2 of the time.
 
I don't know how the mes sensor runs the top element being on the ceiling or if it's a timer. I heard it's the top or bottom element not both on at the same time. A switch where the bottom element has two leads to a switch then on the switch side has two hot and neutral contacts for the custom power cord and mes stock element wires could be a quicker switching from PID to mes contrller and leave the ground terminated to the screw on the custom power cord. Temp swings and failing mes controllers get people to PIDs. What is your experience with this smokers swings? Until we know more about this new controller wiring with the new 5 chip/chunk burner settings, rotisserie and top element etc. This is the most simple mod for a bottom element PID I could think of. Maybe use this smoker for awhile to get it down in all areas first as it's intended then let us know the pros and cons before mods.


Ohh this isnt the New model with the rotisserie, this is the John Mclamore model from Lowes, its a normal BlueTooth smoker with the top element added. No settings except high, med, and low for the top broiler. I really dont even need the top broiler, I have a grill if needed.
 
If it has a max operating temp of 275F then the top broiler is almost pointless... it can't really broil hahaha.
Yeah the Bluetooth feature for the MES has always been reported to never work which is sad since it is a major selling point but has never worked.

One of the guys on the forum uses and likes the Auber PID that has Bluetooth. I believe there are some quirks with the Auber Bluetooth unit BUT it didn't seem to be enough to keep the guy from really enjoying it.

If you don't even care about the top broiler then I'm pretty confident you could just do the rewire like this post mentions as long as you only find and connect the normal smoker heating element wires and they don't include the other broiler element in the circuit. In this case it would operate like any MES on a PID we have discussed in the past.
 
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Ohh this isnt the New model with the rotisserie, this is the John Mclamore model from Lowes, its a normal BlueTooth smoker with the top element added. No settings except high, med, and low for the top broiler. I really dont even need the top broiler, I have a grill if needed.
Ok. Didn't know there was a std BT with top element. MB is getting out of hand on now four Generations with a million subsets. If you don't really need the broiler then you can ignore that wiring when found or still splice into the two top element wires with a power cord and ground to chassis after the PID mod if you want plugged in broiling unplugged off.
 
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