MES 40 Element Wires Burnt up

[krooz]

I ran a post in Pork about my MES going out ruining my smoke for Father's Day. Anyway, this morning I pulled the back plate and found the wires to the element burnt up. Back in 2017 the spade connectors burnt up at the element. I replaced the element and bought high temp connectors and soldered in some new 14 gauge wires to the existing wiring. All good till now. I believe I should have used high temp (MGT) wiring. I have plenty of the high temp connectors but they are for 16-14 gauge wires. Is 14 sufficient? I'm thinking it is but wanted to check before ordering off Amazon. Checked the element with the Ohm meter and it looks like it's still good.

Thanks!

 

[gmc2003]

I believe tallbm is the member you want. If he doesn't see this then send him a message.

Chris

 

[tallbm]

I ran a post in Pork about my MES going out ruining my smoke for Father's Day. Anyway, this morning I pulled the back plate and found the wires to the element burnt up. Back in 2017 the spade connectors burnt up at the element. I replaced the element and bought high temp connectors and soldered in some new 14 gauge wires to the existing wiring. All good till now. I believe I should have used high temp (MGT) wiring. I have plenty of the high temp connectors but they are for 16-14 gauge wires. Is 14 sufficient? I'm thinking it is but wanted to check before ordering off Amazon. Checked the element with the Ohm meter and it looks like it's still good.

Thanks!

Yeah all MES connectors are 14-16 AWG connectors. You should be good using those.
Sorry to hear about the wires burning up. Just be sure everything is clamped well and is firmly in place so there is no loose connections to cause resistance and burning up of components.

Let us know how the repairs go :)

 

[krooz]

Cool. Last time I soldered the wires together and to the spades then shrink wrapped the splice. Would it be better to use crimps? Would be easier for sure.

Thanks

 

[tallbm]

Cool. Last time I soldered the wires together and to the spades then shrink wrapped the splice. Would it be better to use crimps? Would be easier for sure.

Thanks

Solder should be the best option. I only ever crimp, no solder involved.
It's interesting how yours burned up since you basically had the most secure connections one could have.
One "Pro" for crimps and such over solder is that you can more easily replace pieces when something like this happens.

I say go with what will most likely work and be reliable moving forward :)

 

[krooz]

I guess the wire I used wasn't right for the task and just burnt to a crisp over time. Cut off the shrink wrap and the solder joint is nice and shiny. Wish it had failed on a chicken rather than 40 some dollars worth of butt! Off to order some wire...

 

[chopsaw]

. Cut off the shrink wrap and the solder joint is nice and shiny.

Not saying this happened to you , but the first time I fixed mine I got to much heat on the shrink tubing and caused the start of the next failure .
Melted the casing on the wire before the heat shrink shrunk .
Say that 5 times fast .
Just thought I would mention it .

 

[tallbm]

I guess the wire I used wasn't right for the task and just burnt to a crisp over time. Cut off the shrink wrap and the solder joint is nice and shiny. Wish it had failed on a chicken rather than 40 some dollars worth of butt! Off to order some wire...

Ah I see. The entire system is 16 AWG wiring so if you use 16 or a lower number gauge (14,12,10, etc.) you will have adequate wiring. It is good to keep with the same thing already used so your components and other things match throughout the system to avoid any weird burn up situations.
Let us know how it goes! :)

 

[krooz]

Solder should be the best option. I only ever crimp, no solder involved.
It's interesting how yours burned up since you basically had the most secure connections one could have.
One "Pro" for crimps and such over solder is that you can more easily replace pieces when something like this happens.

I say go with what will most likely work and be reliable moving forward :)

Hi tallbm. I think I'm going to crimp this time as I get less and less OEM wire to work with on each rework. I have some of the blue crimp/heat shrink connectors. The card says they're good to 221F. Do you think they'd work? Thinking with the insulation in the back they'd be fine. I see some metal ones on line but I'd have to buy like a hundred of them.

 

[tallbm]

Hi tallbm. I think I'm going to crimp this time as I get less and less OEM wire to work with on each rework. I have some of the blue crimp/heat shrink connectors. The card says they're good to 221F. Do you think they'd work? Thinking with the insulation in the back they'd be fine. I see some metal ones on line but I'd have to buy like a hundred of them.

Here's some hi-temp ones that will get the job done for ya (25 count):

Any heat shrink insulation around 300F I think will work it's what I use. It's more to keep the metal parts from being exposed so nothing can accidently come into contact with it. My shrink wrap isn't burning up so I feel fine about the 275-300F shrink insulation. I would think the insulation keeps that from getting hot, well not like heating element hot.
Electrical tape has a much higher operating temp provided it has no issues staying on so that could be an option for you.

 

[krooz]

I have high temp spade connectors for the element, I was talking the jumper connection for the wire to wire. Come to think of it maybe I'll do spade connectors for those as well = easier replacement if I go down this road again...

 

[tallbm]

I have high temp spade connectors for the element, I was talking the jumper connection for the wire to wire. Come to think of it maybe I'll do spade connectors for those as well = easier replacement if I go down this road again...

Ahh I see. For wire to wire I would just go with any insulated butt splice connector or even a small wirenut with electrical tape. The smoker insulation should have you protected well enough to use any reasonable heat shrink insulation on the wire..