MES 30 - electrical problem

[beolson25]

Miatawnt,

I tested across the two leads with the heating element gone.  I get between 37 and 38 volts with the controller on and off. 

I am pretty sure the white wire is the one that is on the relay in my unit ...

When measuring my outlet I got the following:

    120 volts from small side to ground

    0 volts from big side to ground

I do hear the relay click but its not loud.

John,

I actually get the relay sizing etc ... but getting the thing removed and reconnected without destroying everything else is my concern.  Honestly the reconnecting is the harder part for me.  Seems like I'd have to pull the whole board out and figure out which leads go to the new one. 

I think I'd pay the $65 to get a new body before doing that.

That said .. I've put everything I need in my Amazon shopping cart to build a controller with a SSR and a nice housing and connectors.  I'm wondering if anyone has an opinion....

I can spend about $110 for a whole controller, SSR, Box, Upgraded wiring, etc ...

OR

I can pay the $65 plus $20 shipping ($85) and get the whole new body.  Then replace all my stuff from the old unit to the new unit.

I hear that the controllers and parts on these things aren't all that reliable... Any opinions???

 

[beolson25]

Ok ... I called Masterbuilt again ... They probably know me by name at this point...

I was calling to find out about the warranty since I don't have a receipt if I bought just the new Base Unit Thingy ... which doesn't include, heating element, controller, smoker door, or the racks inside the box...  That was going to be $65 + $20 for shipping....

The whole new unit was $100 + 20 for shipping ...

So ... My thought is ... I can probably sell this smoker or it's parts for some of the cash back ... OR ... use it for some other plan. 

I went with the $120 for the new smoker.  Now I need to see if anyone needs parts or the whole thing for a discounted rate.

I'm in North East Dallas if anyone ere is interested ... It will be first come first served ... Haven't really even thought about prices ....

I'll keep you guys informed of the status and maybe come back for some advice on smoking once i get the new unit.

 

[johnmeyer]

John,
I actually get the relay sizing etc ... but getting the thing removed and reconnected without destroying everything else is my concern.  Honestly the reconnecting is the harder part for me.  Seems like I'd have to pull the whole board out and figure out which leads go to the new one. 

I think I'd pay the $65 to get a new body before doing that.

Given all your multimeter tests, I thought you were a tech. If not, I agree that removal and re-soldering is probably best left to someone else.

As far as the $65 for a whole new controller and housing, that part price does not seem out of line.

 

[beolson25]

So ... I've been avoiding mentioning it because of my obvious ignorance.  I graduated with an Electrical Engineering degree many many moons ago.  Also a Computer Engineering degree ... I went into the computer side of my degree and did my best to try and forget all the electrical math nonsense ... LOL

I have some general knowledge of "stuff" but not a lot of experience in actually taking apart existing stuff ... Mostly just building new stuff.

I built a really nice LED light system for my Saltwater fishtank.  That was fun and saved e a fortune...

Problem here is the parts to create my own controller in a nice box and nice connectors was going to be ~$100 ... so it's not worth doing the whole thing myself ... And then the amount of work and possible re-work of trying to insert parts int othe existing space puts it out of my current desirable scope ...

 

[beolson25]

Here is another question ...

So now I have this old smoker body and parts.  I am planning to create a simple Temperature knob so it can be used by extended family if they want.  I bought the below($10) and I think it should do ok as long as I don't want to go over 110C(~230 F).  I'm thinking as a simple solution I'll just wire the power around the back and let the temp probe hang through the air vent.

Thoughts?

 

[JckDanls 07]

Here is another question ...

So now I have this old smoker body and parts.  I am planning to create a simple Temperature knob so it can be used by extended family if they want.  I bought the below($10) and I think it should do ok as long as I don't want to go over 110C(~230 F).  I'm thinking as a simple solution I'll just wire the power around the back and let the temp probe hang through the air vent.

Thoughts?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDMJBOC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

If I'm reading the description of this controller right.. it is for 250 V or higher... ???

Myself.. I think I would of went with a PID controller on the existing unit... since these units are notorious for inaccurate heating/readings....

 

[beolson25]

but the PID controller and parts add up to $100

absolute minimum is like $60 but it would look pieced together -- i say this partly because I have a dog and small children .. cant have loose wires all over.

this as a backup for $10 works

I read about these controllers and they can be used for 120..

If I understand it correctly ... This thing acts like a small controller that turns on and off based on the input from the temp sensor.  I'm pretty sure that you set the temp and if the current temp is lower than the setting temp the connection will be made no matter what the power is on the unit.

I hope I'm right ... I based it on the review comments

 

[mvoigt]

You are correct on how the controller works. I set one up with the PID controller and solid state really from auger. You can calibrate the smoker every time you use it. The controller "learns" the system every time. I have a wiring diagram if interested

 

[miatawnt2b]

 
So ... I've been avoiding mentioning it because of my obvious ignorance.  I graduated with an Electrical Engineering degree many many moons ago.  Also a Computer Engineering degree ... I went into the computer side of my degree and did my best to try and forget all the electrical math nonsense ... LOL

I have some general knowledge of "stuff" but not a lot of experience in actually taking apart existing stuff ... Mostly just building new stuff.

I built a really nice LED light system for my Saltwater fishtank.  That was fun and saved e a fortune...

Problem here is the parts to create my own controller in a nice box and nice connectors was going to be ~$100 ... so it's not worth doing the whole thing myself ... And then the amount of work and possible re-work of trying to insert parts int othe existing space puts it out of my current desirable scope ...

Too funny. I have a reef tank with DIY led also. Mine is really simple... a 100w 20000k multichip, no optics over a 50gal 24" cube.

 

[beolson25]

I built a whole panel of lights ... I have a 4 ft long 75 gallon Reef Tank ...

Lots of fun BUT ... if people thought smoking meat was expensive .... This is a whole different level of expensive.

 

[beolson25]

Here is a Not So Recent picture of my Reef Tank

 

[beolson25]

I received my new MES 30 but that is not why I am writing.

I mentioned in a previous post using the below knob for temperature control in the old broken unit:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDMJBOC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I received it in the mail and wired it up.  Honestly it looks decent other than the fact that I used a 2 gang electrical box as the housing for the knob, outlet and light switch.  I tested it to ensure it worked and got to the high temp(110 C based on the dial).  I did not get an accurate internal temperature but the thing seems to turn on and off based on a temperature setting. 

I ordered a Maverick wireless temp sensor to use for measuring the actual temperatures.

It might be a pretty easy and cheap solution.  I'm not sure how much I will test it since I plan to use the new unit for my personal cooker but I wanted to let you guys know that it can be done.

Please feel free to ask any questions.  I'll do my best to give the answers.

THANKS again to everyone that helped answer all of my previous questions.

 

[dr k]

 
I received my new MES 30 but that is not why I am writing.

I mentioned in a previous post using the below knob for temperature control in the old broken unit:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDMJBOC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I received it in the mail and wired it up.  Honestly it looks decent other than the fact that I used a 2 gang electrical box as the housing for the knob, outlet and light switch.  I tested it to ensure it worked and got to the high temp(110 C based on the dial).  I did not get an accurate internal temperature but the thing seems to turn on and off based on a temperature setting. 

I ordered a Maverick wireless temp sensor to use for measuring the actual temperatures.

It might be a pretty easy and cheap solution.  I'm not sure how much I will test it since I plan to use the new unit for my personal cooker but I wanted to let you guys know that it can be done.

Please feel free to ask any questions.  I'll do my best to give the answers.

THANKS again to everyone that helped answer all of my previous questions.

Any pics on how you wired it?

-Kurt

 

[beolson25]

Well ... No ... I'm not that smart to have thought of pictures while doing it ... Let me do a rough picture in paint ... Give me some time ... I'll tak e a picture of the box I put it in too ...

 

[beolson25]

All,

attached is a quick and dirty electrical wiring diagram with a couple pictures.  I want to be very clear that I have only tested this enough to know that the heating element turns on(and nothing explodes) and that when a certain temperature is reached the heating element turns off AND back on once the temperature drops.

I have no idea how well this works at temperature range or how long this will last.

***I used a grey line to indicate a white wire. 

I created a PDF instead of multiple attachments.  I think everyone has a pdf reader.

Please feel free to ask me questions.

Edit: I had to order the correct cover from amazon for a duplex & toggle ... It was a $.40 add on item.  It is not shown in the pictures because I don't have it.

I still need to put some consideration into trying to make this a bit more weather resistant.  I don't want to plan on removing this every time due to my concern about the temperature probe wire breaking.

 

[beolson25]

I always do this ... I'm completely rethinking my wiring and design ... Same idea ... Knob controls temperature ... But ... Thinking on mounting the knob on the back of the unit where the old power wire used to come in.  It seems like there is room for the electrical connections if i pull some of the old wiring stuff out.  Plus ... then I don't have to worry as much about weather ... I can just do a decent job at sealing the knob mounting area and it should be pretty clean. 

The annoying part of coarse will be the dial on the back of the smoker and at the bottom ... AND .... I'm going to have to figure out where I want to run that thermometer's temperature probe through into the smoker.  It has to be far enough away from the electronics but close enough to avoid long runs of a wire that will be getting hot.

Hmmm ... I'm also getting a higher rated temperature knob (50-300 C).  I'd like the ability to get to the 275-300 for getting a bark toward the end of the smoke.

So many things running through this little mind ... Funny thing is I have the brand new one in the box over here ... :)

 

[janell barney]

I would like to tag on to this post.  I got a MES 30 for Christmas.  The second time I used it I could only get the temperature to set by raising it one degree at a time and even then it beeped and turned off before getting to the temp I wanted so I would have to unplug it and start over.  I contacted returned it to the store for a replacement.  The new one is even worse.  It took me at least 15 minutes this morning to get  the temp and time set.  Did I just happen to get two bad units or am I doing something wrong?  I am not sure whether I should attempt a third one or just look for a new smoker.  Has anyone had similar problems?

 

[old sarge]

Janell Barney - If you have followed the operating instructions to the letter, and have had failure on two new smokers, I don't think I would go for a third try if it were me.  I would be looking for something more reliable/less problematic.

 

[johnmeyer]

Since it has happened with two units, the only thing I can think of is some sort of voltage problem at the outlet you are using. Try a different outlet, or at least try cycling the GFI (Ground Fault Interrupter) on the circuit you are using. You could plug in a standard incandescent light and see if it flickers or is dim.

Another thought: is this circuit controlled by a light dimmer switch? I actually have several of my outdoor lights controlled by a dimmer, although none of the plugs are connected to those switches.

 

[beolson25]

Rewire that(those) bad boy .... 

PID is awesome but on the expensive side ... The dial I mentioned previously has been working well for me ... 
 

That said ... I agree with calling Masterbuilt.  Their customer service was outstanding when I talked to them.