M7's build thread. Reverse Flow trailer mounted with storage compartments.

[mtmseven]

Door gaps are not the issue. I grinded the gaps all clear before the straps were added and triple checked after the straps were added. It was obvious from the start that the door closest to the FB relaxed after it was cut loose. I have a solution in mind. No need to fret about the doors sealing. It will be addressed before I'm finished.

I have a port-a-power 10 ton so tweaked doors aren't a threat.

 

[mtmseven]

Stationary grates are welded in with the slide rails.

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• mtmseven
• Jun 16, 2014

Cutting the curve to match the front was fun. And not as successful as I'd hoped but should work as is.

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• mtmseven
• Jun 16, 2014

Slide racks in place. Overkill on the angle iron but what the hay.

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• mtmseven
• Jun 16, 2014

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• mtmseven
• Jun 16, 2014

 

[bestbuttsbbq]

Looking Good! This is one of my favorite smoker builds!

 

[jeromeking]

I know this is a dumb question, but what is the metal called you are building your grates with - Ive been looking at my local hardware store, and cant find it, and cant ask by name since i dont know it?  Thanks all - Took 30 minutes at work reading this thread - It was awesome.

2nd question, reverse flow means the heat and smoke travel from firebox to end of smoker underneat a baffle, then up across the top of baffle and exit on the same side as firebox?  Could you show a pic of where the heat/smoke travel up from the baffle?  I havent seen this in the pics unless i missed it.

Best,

JK

 

[lendecatural]

I know this is a dumb question, but what is the metal called you are building your grates with - Ive been looking at my local hardware store, and cant find it, and cant ask by name since i dont know it?  Thanks all - Took 30 minutes at work reading this thread - It was awesome.

2nd question, reverse flow means the heat and smoke travel from firebox to end of smoker underneat a baffle, then up across the top of baffle and exit on the same side as firebox?  Could you show a pic of where the heat/smoke travel up from the baffle?  I havent seen this in the pics unless i missed it.

Best,

JK

The metal is called "expanded" and it is rolled flat after being slit and stretched. Hardware stores will not have it in stock, you will have to go to a metal supply company.

Here is the calculator used to size smokers with pictures of a reverse flow smoker and offset smokers

http://feldoncentral.com/bbqcalculator.html

 

[backyard smokin]

JK...it's called expanded metal. You can get it in different size holes as well. Most people make their charcoal basket out of 3/4" 9 gauge. For a cooking grate you could use a lighter gauge if you want, like a 11 or 13 gauge.

 

[backyard smokin]

My local hardware store sells it but they wanted $32 for a 24"X24" sheet...the steel shop only wanted $57 for a 4'X8' sheet. Got any friends in the metal fab business?

 

[daveomak]

I know this is a dumb question, but what is the metal called you are building your grates with - Ive been looking at my local hardware store, and cant find it, and cant ask by name since i dont know it?  Thanks all - Took 30 minutes at work reading this thread - It was awesome.

2nd question, reverse flow means the heat and smoke travel from firebox to end of smoker underneat a baffle, then up across the top of baffle and exit on the same side as firebox?  Could you show a pic of where the heat/smoke travel up from the baffle?  I havent seen this in the pics unless i missed it.

Best,

JK

Smoke circulating in a smoker.jpg

• daveomak
• Jun 18, 2014

 

[mtmseven]

JK...it's called expanded metal. You can get it in different size holes as well. Most people make their charcoal basket out of 3/4" 9 gauge. For a cooking grate you could use a lighter gauge if you want, like a 11 or 13 gauge.

Yep.  I'm using 3/4 #9 "flattened" for the grates.

Will be using a different setup for the firebox - more of a platform than a basket and made of grate instead of expanded.

 

[mtmseven]

Does your Smoker project have to haul around it's own parts during the build?

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• mtmseven
• Jun 19, 2014

 

[lendecatural]

It is getting really close, just curious, are you going to leave all the patina and decals on for the rat rod smoker look? You have a really cool project going!

 

[mtmseven]

 
It is getting really close, just curious, are you going to leave all the patina and decals on for the rat rod smoker look? You have a really cool project going!

I don't feel like it's close.  Have a hundred small things to finish before I can even test it properly.

Not sure on the patina.  If I decide sell it, it'll be painted and all snappy Satin black chamber and FB with Slate gray sides and front in the same low gloss.   While I use it.  I'm thinking the 'rat rod' look will be a theft deterrent. Ha!

 

[mtmseven]

Finally worked on the FB door today. It's heavy.

Wrapped the perimeter in angle iron to keep it from warping.

Added another reverse rectangle of angle iron to match the FB itself

The hinge is a piece of DOM tubing with galvanized pipe as the pin. I can literally ride on the door and swing around easily. It's a stout setup. Mr. T would be proud.

The pin floats so I can remove the door when needed.

Used the porta power to remove a bow in one of the sides. I love that tool.

Will make the latch tomorrow.

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• mtmseven
• Jun 21, 2014

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• mtmseven
• Jun 21, 2014

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• mtmseven
• Jun 21, 2014

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• mtmseven
• Jun 21, 2014

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• mtmseven
• Jun 21, 2014

 

[daveomak]

Are you leaving the hinge pin removable ????? Good idea...... (I've never seen 6 oz. stubbies for hinges)...... OH... they just look like stubbies... Nice job on the FB......

 

[txsean]

Dude this is an awesome build! I don't know how I missed this... And local too, what part of town? 

 

[mtmseven]

Designed and built my FB latch - you can't see but it has a stop so you can use it to pull the door. It can be operated by hand or foot if you don't wanna touch hot stuffs. Simply kick closed.

Added framing and built my oven door as well. Those hinges are off a '68 Chevy truck door. No latches built yet and I still need to add my stopper to keep the oven door from dropping down.

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• mtmseven
• Jun 22, 2014

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• mtmseven
• Jun 22, 2014

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• mtmseven
• Jun 22, 2014

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• mtmseven
• Jun 22, 2014

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• mtmseven
• Jun 22, 2014

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• mtmseven
• Jun 22, 2014

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• mtmseven
• Jun 22, 2014

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• mtmseven
• Jun 22, 2014

 

[mtmseven]

Dude this is an awesome build! I don't know how I missed this... And local too, what part of town? 

Hey thanks! I'm in Austin, building the smoker out near Elgin.

 

[mtmseven]

Progress...

Added my exhaust adjusters, oven door stopper and cooking rack rail management.

Used a beer box for prototyping again.

Oven door latches are on order.

Need to make the fire box intake next. After that, I'm close to test time!

Might give it a try on the 4th weekend.

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• mtmseven
• Jun 28, 2014

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• mtmseven
• Jun 28, 2014

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• mtmseven
• Jun 28, 2014

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• mtmseven
• Jun 28, 2014

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• mtmseven
• Jun 28, 2014

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• mtmseven
• Jun 28, 2014

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• mtmseven
• Jun 28, 2014

 

[mtmseven]

Sunday morning I threw together my firebox grate.  

It stands 4" from the floor, the frame is made from 3/4" solid rod (shouldn't rust out). 

The grid is some old floor grate that I had laying around - wasn't exactly the right size but i think it's big enough to build a fire on.  I could add a sheet of expanded metal later  if I need some extra area for logs.

Had Hell trying to weld as it was too windy this weekend.  Thankfully no cosmetic welds were needed.

Next weekend I'll tackle the FB door vents.   Not looking forward to all that cutting.

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• mtmseven
• Jun 30, 2014

 

[mtmseven]

QUESTION on the FB vent openings......

Where should they be placed in relation to the fire grate - even with, below, above?

I'm guessing if the vents are too low then ash and coals might fall out.  Too high and intake air doesn't hit the fire.

I'm thinking that since the bottom of the grate is 4" then the bottom of the vent should be 4" as well.

Any other theories or advice out there?