Knife sharpening

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phathead69

Smoking Fanatic
Original poster
Dec 23, 2016
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TN
Bought these for me for Christmas. Wife won't use them she says they are to sharp. 20190101_132718.jpg
Made a quick knife holder from some popular I had on hand. I've done a search on here with not much luck for info I was looking for. Seems several like the mechanical like the Ken onion etc. Nothing wrong there just not my cup of tea. I know with proper care and proper board (making my own end grain very shortly) I won't need to sharpen but maybe once a year or two. Google comes up with many options. I want to go the stone route as I find it very relaxing. Currently using wet/dry sand paper on ceramic tiles (400, 600, 1200, 2000) but paper tears very easily and even with water loads pretty fast also. So who is using Japanese water stones or Arkansas stones. Prefer one over the other? Grits your using?.
 
I use Japaneses water stones 1000/6000. If your knives are in decent shape you don't need a coarser grit. I've used oil stones too and they work fine but the oil makes clean up a bigger PITA. The nice thing with that Old Hickory is it's carbon steel and sharpens very easy, just wipe it with a touch of cooking oil after washing to prevent rust.
 
I have used everything except the Japanese.....LOL Currently its Ken onion, why? Because I had a favorite knife replaced and wasn't going to spend the months of sharpening to get it in what I would consider proper shape to use at this point in life. Seriously, those hard stainless blades take some serious work which I assume you'd agree with.

Before Ken Onion, I used DMTs. I still love them. Yes a bit pricey but you want an edge they cut the mustard. I have three of the I think, 5 different grit stones. The medium and the course. The course fixes what other folks do to my blades, the medium pulls them true. Why no fine? Because I have sharpening steels. They true up the blades generally for a few months before they need a serious realigning.

My sharpening now depends mostly upon the steel which is another long discussion. My Heinkle's/Victorinox I use Kens, where I used to use the DMT. On the higher carbon SS blades my most cherished, I still use the DMTs. I have a drawer full of stones the old tri-stones where you flip 'em in the tray for different grits, the ceramics, numerous wet stones, Arkansas hard stones which will utterly drive you crazy, Hell I even have razor strops. Now those are serious. BUT you don't need all that crap, when is the last time you needed to shave a ribeye?

I recommend, after a day or two of sharpening knifes, that you get the Ken Onion, its idiot proof. When you spend 30/40 dollars a stone for a couple a stones, unless you gain a mental center while sharpening your knives you are not that far from the price of the Ken Onion. (Dang just the DMT pricing at Amazon, they have gone way up).

LOL>>>> I hope that all makes sense I am typing with a day-after handicap, bloody eyeballs!
 
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I use to use Carborundum and Arkansauce hard wet stones for my hunting and fishing knives.
Anymore, I favor sharpening steels, and a diamond impregnated steel for our kitchen knives.
 
When in business I used to give away Old Timers to customers. Then they changed the steel. But one year I gave a customer the small pocket flip DMT to use when skinning at the camp. Biggest screw up I every made, cost me a fortune. I actually had purchasing agents & engineers calling me, politely threatening me. I gave one to my Pop and all his buddies wive's talked my Mom and that cost me another fortune. LOL!

I just had to share that. It is pretty funny now.
 
What is DMT?? I’m the boards I’ve read the wood is far better on the blades than plastic......
 
What is DMT?? I’m the boards I’ve read the wood is far better on the blades than plastic......

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_4_14?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=dmt+sharpening+kit&sprefix=DMT+sharpening,aps,169&crid=39LVDUWRUHJ9Y&rh=i:aps,k:dmt+sharpening+kit

There are different plastics. I use a medium density polyethylene vice a high density, its all 3408 material which is NSF, just less dense. These are all just what I do, its all about personal opinion. Fat side up or fat side down?
 
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What is DMT?? I’m the boards I’ve read the wood is far better on the blades than plastic......
Diamond sharpening system that uses micro diamonds pasted to a substrate. Very good but aggressive from my research.[/QUOTE]
 
Oh, BTW you realize what you cut on is as important as the knife! I Have lots of old wooden cutting boards, but today I use soft plastic instead. Just throwing that out there.
Yep read a ton on that and plan on making my own end grain with walnut and maple.
 
Harbor Freight belt sander. Around $30 with their coupon. Buy a couple of the finer grit belts and you're set. It's not variable speed but once you get the hang of it (on cheap junker blades) you'll probably not go back to stones. 30 seconds to get a carbon steel blade shaving sharp!
 
[QUOTE="foamheart, post: 1911693, member:

I recommend, after a day or two of sharpening knifes, that you get the Ken Onion, its idiot proof. When you spend 30/40 dollars a stone for a couple a stones, unless you gain a mental center while sharpening your knives you are not that far from the price of the Ken Onion. (Dang just the DMT pricing at Amazon, they have gone way up).

LOL>>>> I hope that all makes sense I am typing with a day-after handicap, bloody eyeballs![/QUOTE]
Yep makes sense im reading with a bit of "jet lag" my self and I'm probably to far from center to be helped but I do enjoy knife sharpening with my sand paper it's just to easy to tear but I've achieved pretty good results with it.
 
I use Japaneses water stones 1000/6000. If your knives are in decent shape you don't need a coarser grit. I've used oil stones too and they work fine but the oil makes clean up a bigger PITA. The nice thing with that Old Hickory is it's carbon steel and sharpens very easy, just wipe it with a touch of cooking oil after washing to prevent rust.
That's what I was thinking. I assume your talking natural not man made. What brand?
 
I have used Japanese water stones for years. I used to use them both for my woodworking tools and my knives. I haven't been able to do any woodworking for quite a while now but I still use them for knives. A good 1000 grit and a good 5000 grit is all you need for knives. There is a learning curve to get the feel of the holding the correct angle but you will pick it up quickly. I would recommend checking out this guy's page and doing some watching. He does a great job of simplifying the sharpening process and also does some great reviews on stones. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOluHMoKJ6CrS0kcybhaThg
 
Ricky's' strops are really great and you should consider getting one, to maintain your knives edge. There are a lot of stones out the, of varying degree of quality, I have been using Sigma Power stones and have been very happy with them. They don't have the popularity of others, outside Japan, but they are great stones. I get mine from this place. http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=335_404_403 He is a one man operation but will really take care of you and his prices are very competitive.
 
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I find a Norton 4000/8000 combo synthetic quite adequate for knives. A 1000 grit is also handy if you are starting with a badly abused knife. A properly used steel will keep a knife in good shape for a very long time. I also have a Naniwa 12000 and a diamond pasted nylon strop but those are for my straight razors.
 
That's what I was thinking. I assume your talking natural not man made. What brand?

Actually mine is a synthetic from King, a dual sided 1000/6000. I really don't like it though, it does not make a good slurry and the 6000 side is too soft - my knives take chunks out if it on ocassion. I bought it to replace a 1000/3000 I had that met an untimely demise in a fight with my tile kitchen floor. I do enjoy sharpening "old school" using the water stones but can't recommend the one I have.
 
Quality kitchen knives should only really need a sharpening steel. If abused slightly, a lansky works quite well. Just recently started using a Spyderco for my hunting knives. Puts an excellent edge on them.

Or if " Al " is up and fully operationally with his sharpening business, send them his way. ;)
 
I find a Norton 4000/8000 combo synthetic quite adequate for knives. A 1000 grit is also handy if you are starting with a badly abused knife. A properly used steel will keep a knife in good shape for a very long time. I also have a Naniwa 12000 and a diamond pasted nylon strop but those are for my straight razors.
I read the reviews on the norton's and seem to be ok. Several complained they would not make a good slurry.
 
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