I have a plumbing issue

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That's what I've tried from the get-go---several times. The only part that moves is at the spout end where I have the wrench--after heating and hitting it.

As for the "pro" found a local guy with 100 5* reviews. He'll be here tomorrow (non-emergency basis) as he "had a cancellation"--or Wed.

Maybe I just got lucky as opposed to all this happening at once.
Actually, the spout is the only thing that should be moving in that situation, seeing that the copper stub out is soldered into the valve. So basically it's like you're unscrewing a cap on the end of the stub out nipple.

After looking at your pic's again, I'm betting that electrolysis has seized the copper stub out into the most likely steel spout threads. Coming out of the wall should've been a brass nipple, not copper pipe with a male adapter soldered onto it, there is zero dielectric break, going from a most likely steel spout to copper pipe. You need a 5" or better yet 6'' long brass nipple between the spout and the valve body as a dielectric break, so that the dissimilar metals don't eat up your copper plumbing system.

Electrolysis will cause all sort of problems, from plaque in the pipes, that will restrict water volume, to pinholes in the copper plumbing system, including water heater, and water softener tanks, it's nasty stuff.

I'm all for trying to fix things myself, but like you, if it's a P.I.T.A, I'm calling in the pro's.
There is good reason why plumbers and skilled tradesmen charge as much as they do, it's because of their training/ knowledge, but the main reason is no sane person wants to work on their own $#!t. 🤣

Watch how they fix it, and you'll be good to go if it ever has to be done again.:emoji_thumbsup:
 
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plumber come and gone.

Just had to twist it off (but much harder than I was willing to do). Strangely enough, very little calciu... at the threads (it WAS just threaded on as I suspected) but the freezing was in the threads themselves. There was tape on the thread from the initial install but 10 years later.........

Put teflon on the threads then some dope and screwed the new spout on and...all is back to normal.

It is just the copper pipe out from the wall ending in the threaded adapter at the "business" end.

Thanks to those who offered their expertise. Much appreciated :emoji_thumbsup:
 
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Oops wrong plumbing.

Chris
 
Well, I did say I was trying to get (it) off :emoji_laughing:
Did not try HARD enough :emoji_wink:

Not really a Facebook guy but have joined a number of trades pages. I am VERY knowledgeable of most especially electric and just find it interesting. OMG the job pics they post! Poor plumber having to move "toys" under the sink to work on the drain... Anyhow, point is, those guys deserve an easy job like this now and then. My fave dude:
 
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Glad you got it fixed.
I've been following silently. By the time I found the thread you were getting enough advice so I hesitated to add my 2¢ and my years of experience.
Plumbers are great mechanics but not always the brightest on sealants. No need to use tape and liquid dope in the same fitting.
RectorSeal liquid dope is the most trusted brand and all that is needed.
I'll follow innuendos. RectorSeal comes in soft, semi hard, and rigid set formulas.
...
After looking at your pic's again, I'm betting that electrolysis has seized the copper stub out into the most likely steel spout threads.
...
Great follow up post, Dan.
The correct term is galvanic corrosion, not electrolysis. However in this case, there is zero chance it is galvanic corrosion as it requires an electrolyte meaning a liquid. Tub spouts are simple corrosion. No need for a brass nipple.
You gave a great description of the damage caused by galvanic corrosion. Problem is that plumbers are the greatest cause of this issue. Somehow they got told that 3 wraps of teflon tape is all that is needed to cure all plumbing issues of dissimilar metals.
I have to replace a 25 year old water heater as the installers messed up. I don't know if they didn't test or damaged the di-electric unions
The other contributor is improper bonding of the hot and cold water lines to the load center (electrical panel) and ground rods. Electrician failed that in our house and inspector missed it. Yeah code required it
 
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Glad you got it fixed.
I've been following silently. By the time I found the thread you were getting enough advice so I hesitated to add my 2¢ and my years of experience.
Plumbers are great mechanics but not always the brightest on sealants. No need to use tape and liquid dope in the same fitting.
RectorSeal liquid dope is the most trusted brand and all that is needed.
I'll follow innuendos. RectorSeal comes in soft, semi hard, and rigid set formulas.

Great follow up post, Dan.
The correct term is galvanic corrosion, not electrolysis. However in this case, there is zero chance it is galvanic corrosion as it requires an electrolyte meaning a liquid. Tub spouts are simple corrosion. No need for a brass nipple.
You gave a great description of the damage caused by galvanic corrosion. Problem is that plumbers are the greatest cause of this issue. Somehow they got told that 3 wraps of teflon tape is all that is needed to cure all plumbing issues of dissimilar metals.
I have to replace a 25 year old water heater as the installers messed up. I don't know if they didn't test or damaged the di-electric unions
The other contributor is improper bonding of the hot and cold water lines to the load center (electrical panel) and ground rods. Electrician failed that in our house and inspector missed it. Yeah code required it
He ended up with 3 wraps 3 threads in and a smear of dope on the extention. There was tape when installed 10 yr ago/no idea if dope was on that as well.

At least now I know all I need to know when I uninstall/reinstall the same spout (after cleaning) next November as it's easy maintenance.
 
He ended up with 3 wraps 3 threads in and a smear of dope on the extention. There was tape when installed 10 yr ago/no idea if dope was on that as well.

At least now I know all I need to know when I uninstall/reinstall the same spout (after cleaning) next November as it's easy maintenance.
3 wraps and 3 threads in is the accepted practice with tape. No need to use tape if using dope which is also 3 threads in. As long as he/she used PST you are good. RS#5 alone would be my choice.
 
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3 wraps and 3 threads in is the accepted practice with tape. No need to use tape if using dope which is also 3 threads in. As long as he/she used PST you are good. RS#5 alone would be my choice.
Except it's completely stupid not too, it takes a whole extra 10 seconds to do the job right.
And it's cheap insurance, fixing leaks, or repairing water damage down the road from a slow leak from doing a half-assed job isn't where you make your money.

Lightly dope/teflon/ lightly dope, will damn near eliminate your leaks.
 
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AND put a light "smear" of silicone lube on O-rings (if used). The other issue is in an ensuite--pressure valve cartridge (Kohler again) is only allowing hot to pass. Makes for an interesting shower. I had this one already figured out so no "posting for help" was required.

I already have the replacement parts and the silicone lube. These were all installed 10 yr ago and it seems they have a similar user-life.

When it rains it pours :emoji_wink:
 
AND put a light "smear" of silicone lube on O-rings (if used). The other issue is in an ensuite--pressure valve cartridge (Kohler again) is only allowing hot to pass. Makes for an interesting shower. I had this one already figured out so no "posting for help" was required.

I already have the replacement parts and the silicone lube. These were all installed 10 yr ago and it seems they have a similar user-life.

When it rains it pours :emoji_wink:
That stinks, Kohler used to be good stuff, I haven't bought any in yrs though.
Hard water, even after it's softened, is hard on equipment.

Plain and simple, they don't make things to last these days!!!
 
AND put a light "smear" of silicone lube on O-rings (if used). The other issue is in an ensuite--pressure valve cartridge (Kohler again) is only allowing hot to pass. Makes for an interesting shower. I had this one already figured out so no "posting for help" was required.

I already have the replacement parts and the silicone lube. These were all installed 10 yr ago and it seems they have a similar user-life.

When it rains it pours :emoji_wink:
Yep that should be and easy 10 minute job.

Keith
 
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10 minute job.

they never fail!!!
Toilet in the master bath broke the flush handle a couple months ago . Woke up one Friday , had stuff to do in the shop , but said " I'm gonna fix that handel ,10 minutes , tops " .

Shut the water off at the toilet , flush it , new handel on .
Turn the water on , Mansfield toilet . Has the " Bell " flush valve , and the water is trickling past the gasket .
That's fine , I always buy 2 when I need one , and I have one . Pull it out of the package , and it has a bad spot in it . Brand new ,, put it on anyway ,, no go .
Run up and get another one ( bought an extra )
Put it on , no difference . Tank won't fill , bowl won't fill .
I'm at WTF !
Drain the tank and clean all the junk out of it . Clean the seal and check the bottom of the bell .
Water back on ,,, Nope ,,
Shut the valve off at the toilet again , except it won't shut off .
Now I'm double WTF , and done .
Turn the whole house off , grab a 3/8 brass cap and some tape , and cap it off .
10 minutes is at 4 hours and a trip to the store .
So now I'm flushing the toilet with a bucket , and scoping out what I need to do with the shut off in the bathroom .

Next morning , run up to Home Depot . There's a retired Old timer up there that Had his own plumbing Business . Great guy and knows his stuff . Talked with him about shut off replacement , and he tells me " If it's brass master , I have the guts , just replace them .
Great news !
Back home , whole house shut off . Take the valve apart . Washer is in pieces , old guts out new guts in . Valve works like new . Nice !
House back on , valve back on . No difference at the toilet .

So now I realize that the very first time I shut the toilet valve off , the washer inside came apart .
When I turned the water back on , the rubber went into the supply hose and the fill valve , blocking the water supply .
So . 10 minutes ,
2 days ,
Flush rod and handle
Flush valve gasket
Shut off guts
Fill valve
Supply line .
What the heck ,, might as well get a new seat too , so I did .
Bought a dozen of the Brass master shut off " guts " for future use .

It works so good , I sometimes flush it when I didn't even use it .
 
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