I have a plumbing issue

[ifitsdeadsmokeit]

I would cut the spout off with oscillating saw and get access to the inside. Can get some penetration oil where it is needed and unscrew it.

 

[pineywoods]

Take a screwdriver and break that drywall mud and see if you have a set screw under it. Just do it easy so as not to puncture the copper tubing shouldn't be that hard to break it up

 

[JIMSMOKES]

Paying for it now. In retrospect I don't think a rear entry would solve this issue though.

Are you sure? LoL

 

[voyager 663rd]

I would cut the spout off with oscillating saw and get access to the inside. Can get some penetration oil where it is needed and unscrew it.

certainly would be safer (on the pipes if I was too aggressive) than a hand grinder.

 

[voyager 663rd]

Are you sure? LoL

as the issue is on the outside of the wall and not in the wall, yup

 

[Chris_in_SoCal]

Here is a pic of what yours probably looks like inside the spout.

 

[forktender]

Here's a better pic. All that "stuff"--is that what might be preventing the spout from turning? It's rock hard (like maybe dried mud?) I know this is long distance diagnosis though.

View attachment 727079

Caulking so water doesn't enter the wall.

Use a propane torch, and heat the heck out of the end of the spout, with a wet rag closest to the tile to protect against heat transfer. After seeing the new spout, I can almost guarantee that it's being held on with rock hard pipe dope, but it might be calcium deposits as well, the heat should work on both.

If all else fails, cut that sucker off with a Sawzal with a metal blade, cut about 1/2 way between the end of the spout and the wall, leaving yourself plenty of room to sweat on a coupling to replace the cut off stub out.

 

[forktender]

Caulking so water doesn't enter the wall.

Use a propane torch, and heat the heck out of the end of the spout, with a wet rag closest to the tile to protect against heat transfer. After seeing the new spout, I can almost guaranty that it's being held on with rock hard pipe dope.

Hopefully, once you heat it up enough, the dope will soften up and the threads will break free. If not, you will need to cut the copper stub out, and a 1/2'' coupling with a new 1/2'' male adapter.

When you tighten it back on, dope the threads, Teflon tape then dope over the tape, do that on anything with threads always and your leaks will damn near disappear.

And just put the spout on hand tight, sung but hand tight.

Sorry I wasn't around today, I would've called you.
I should be around tomorrow afternoon, if you haven't got it squared away by then.


Dan.

 

[forktender]

Don't you love plumbing?

I can't stand working on old plumbing, it's always something stupid that holds up the job.

 

[Chris_in_SoCal]

If all else fails, cut that sucker off with a Sawzal with a metal blade, cut about 1/2 way between the end of the spout and the wall, leaving yourself plenty of room to sweat on a coupling to replace the cut off stub out.

Yep that is what I was thinking. I had a pinhole leak in the bathroom I posted above more than a few years ago. I ended up cutting a large square of drywall out of our bedroom wall opposite the bathroom to access the pipes. I ended up replacing as much as needed at the time and patched up the drywall once there was no danger of any leaks.

Tomorrow morning our best contractor that has done our kitchen and nieces bedroom will demo and completely restore that guest bathroom. The fiberglass bath tub will be replaced with a high end shower with ceiling down rainhead shower and travertine tiles floor to ceiling.

New cabinets will be installed in both bathrooms along with lighted mirrors.

It will be great but getting up at 8am every day while they work will be a little tough. Being retired I am use to sleeping in every day.

 

[voyager 663rd]

It's gonna be a bit now. Our OTHER ensuite is giving us fits as well. The shower valve cartridge (a walk-in so no tub spout) will only push through hot water (no cold) and damn little of that.

At least we can have a quick shower b4 it starts steaming BUT with only 1 tub, I'd rather wait and have one issue fixed (walk in is really simple) before losing the tub access.

Both bathrooms reno'd 10 yr ago at same time.

Luckily, that valve is just 4 screws and replace the old valve with the new (on it's way from mfg now BUT they say 2-3 weeks).

Kohler has lifetime free replacements. Second time I've used them.

I blame it on the extremely hard water we have here (and yes, I use a water softener--maybe need to up the salt content).

I'll keep trying the heating but it may be a while till I come back with an update.

Tks again for your help.

 

[ifitsdeadsmokeit]

You have a lot more patience than me. I would have cut a hole behind the spout location and cut out the offending pipe and put in a new one by now. Drywall is an easy fix. If it is an exterior wall, then might be a different story since matching old tile is almost impossible unless have some from the previous remodel stashed somewheres.

 

[voyager 663rd]

You have a lot more patience than me. I would have cut a hole behind the spout location and cut out the offending pipe and put in a new one by now. Drywall is an easy fix. If it is an exterior wall, then might be a different story since matching old tile is almost impossible unless have some from the previous remodel stashed somewheres.

Tiled not drywall. IF it was drywall, I agree-->it would have been chopped out at the start and proceeded as you suggested

 

[chopsaw]

Tiled not drywall.

The other side of the common wet wall is tiled ? All mine are backed up by closets .
By design ,

 

[normanaj]

All mine are backed up by closets .
By design ,

Our linen closet is on the opposite side in the hall outside the bathroom.I made a full access panel to the plumbing when I first moved in.All the underneath tub plumbing is open to and easily accessed from the basement.

 

[voyager 663rd]

Double checked and--not tiled BUT is fully covered with mdf and shelving (towel storage area). Cannot see how its fastened but with trim around the outside--not something I want to tear apart.

HOWEVER, all that is now water under the bridge since SWMBO has since told me---->

"call a plumber. You DON'T know what you're doing and if you're going to be taking a propane torch to that, you're NOT going to be takiing a propane torch to it".

One thing I've always believed in:

1)hourly rate is $XX if an expert repairs it from the start or
2)hourly rate is $XXX if the expert has to fix what I screwed up.

I'm told I have to choose option 1 in this case.

Besides, I've discovered (in the past) I absolutely HATE working with water. I've replaced a busted (frozen from the cold) pipe or two which is pretty straight forward but nothing like this.

I've been told

 

[zwiller]

Dang was hoping to see you got it off! Not a fan of using the torch for a repair like that. Outside on a car maybe. Add me to the group that says to cut it BUT would try an old car repair trick first. Try tightening it a little THEN loosening. Repeat that back and forth a few times and see if you break it free. I like the idea to hire a pro but be prepared for waiting 2 weeks. That's the new normal.

 

[chopsaw]

"call a plumber.

Smart woman . You tried , now just get it taken care off .

He's , or she , is gonna walk in , take a look , go out to the truck , come back in , unscrew it and put the new one on . Lol .

Our linen closet is on the opposite side in the hall

Same here . Haven't got into it yet , but I've opened up for other people , then just used a surface mount cold air return grill to cover the hole . You can also buy cheap plastic friction fit access panels that are only 1/2 " deep .

I wish I would have had zone shutoffs installed when the house was built . Like you say , overhead in the basement . Be nice to isolate kitchen / master / hall when doing this stuff .