Dead Smoker

[BGKYSmoker]

Wow you should get that Honda checked out, that is a lot of smoke coming form under the hood.... just kidding :p

Man that is awesome that you are back up and running. So after all of those labeled images and explanations was the fix as simple as it seemed? :)

Yes

Thank you again. I have this post saved just in case i have this prob again.

 

[dward51]

My first thought is the toggles are not going to fit in the same cutout as the rocker switch, but I see they shipped the wrong ones and you are back up!!!!! Good way to cure the jitters.....

I'm mixing up a 8lb batch of sticks today also.

 

[BGKYSmoker]

Thanks everyone for your help.

i have a huge question.

When i used Bradley smokers i used a Auber PID for it.

Question.

The original Novus digital controller is not a PID type. So when i want to run the temp higher i have to push the P button then up arrow then P again and i have to do this every time to go higher.

Sorry i'm just not that electronic savvy

Would this Auber PID work with the orginal Novus digital still hooked up to my smoker? Or would i have to re route wires.

This is the Auber PID im looking at.
WIFI Electric Smoker Controller, 1800 Watts

 

[tallbm]

Thanks everyone for your help.

i have a huge question.

When i used Bradley smokers i used a Auber PID for it.

Question.

The original Novus digital controller is not a PID type. So when i want to run the temp higher i have to push the P button then up arrow then P again and i have to do this every time to go higher.

Sorry i'm just not that electronic savvy

Would this Auber PID work with the orginal Novus digital still hooked up to my smoker? Or would i have to re route wires.

This is the Auber PID im looking at.
WIFI Electric Smoker Controller, 1800 Watts

So I think the Novus is the controller on your TSM smoker in your question above.
If so, I have a simple and a complex answer for your scenario.

Simple answer is No.
You can't hook the Auber PID up to your TSM and just have it control the temperature without the onboard Novus controller messing things up. As it stands now the onboard Novus has the element cut off from heat unless it is running the show therefore the Auber could never get electricity to the heating element with the Novus in the mix.

Complex answer is Yes. HOWEVER, you would need to do a wire job.

In such a case I would think you would want the TSM smoker plug to come into the TSM and then immediately be wired to a new additional switch.
The switch would indicate which controller would be getting used, TSM controller or Auber controller (switch has those two options).
From the new switch you then wire to the TSM almost identical to how it is currently wired so you can use the TSM with it's controller basically the way it works today.
Additionally from the switch on the Auber setting, you would want wires going directly to the heating element so when plugged into the Auber PID, the Auber will control flow electricity form the Auber to the heating element.

You could have both ways but some effort and some rewiring would be needed, there is no simple way to make both work.

The 3rd option is to do a simply rewire and use the Auber PID to control your TSM the same way you had your Bradley rewired to work with the Auber PID. If I had to choose one of the 3 I would go with the straight rewire and Auber PID controlling the smoker.

I hope this info helps :)

 

[BGKYSmoker]

OUI

I should have paid more attention in electronics class way back in the dirt age :confused::confused::confused::confused::eek::eek:

Would it be worth it just to replace the Novus with a new PID?
From what i am reading i would need a SSR also.

https://www.auberinc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=464

 

[tallbm]

OUI

I should have paid more attention in electronics class way back in the dirt age :confused::confused::confused::confused::eek::eek:

Would it be worth it just to replace the Novus with a new PID?
From what i am reading i would need a SSR also.

https://www.auberinc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1&products_id=464

If you go with the PID in the link then yes you would need an SSR.

If you go with a Plug n Play PID like the image a couple of posts above then No the plug n play has all of that built in.

Though the wiring and PID + SSR stuff seems difficult, what I found to be most difficult was housing all of that stuff into a suitable box/container. They just don't make boxes that are easy to work with for those components. That is another reason why the Plug n Plays are so nice. :)

 

[BGKYSmoker]

If you go with the PID in the link then yes you would need an SSR.

If you go with a Plug n Play PID like the image a couple of posts above then No the plug n play has all of that built in.

Though the wiring and PID + SSR stuff seems difficult, what I found to be most difficult was housing all of that stuff into a suitable box/container. They just don't make boxes that are easy to work with for those components. That is another reason why the Plug n Plays are so nice. :)

I think i'm starting to understand this some. If i buy the plug n play PID i would need to put a new cord from the heating element to the back of the PID? And unwire all the rest of the original components? The element would have a new power cord plugged into the smoker tower plug. What about a ground?

 

[dward51]

Rick,

If you buy a PID and SSR you are basically building what you already have in the "all in one" Auber box you already own.

Short version is you need to take the wires from the heating element and basically make them into a plug in extension cord end. Then totally ditch the TSM control and plug that element into the Auber box you already have. You will also need to use the pit and meat probes that go with that box. The Auber box should completely control the show after that.

It's not as hard as it sounds. From the smoker you will need 3 wires with a regular 110v gounded plug (under $10 at Home Depot). You need to run a ground wire to somewhere on the smoker body to ground it for safety, and the other two wires will be the white and black that go to the heating element. That's it. In theory you could take the TSM control box off the side of the smoker after that if you needed to free up some space in the RV for storage of the smoker.

Give me a minute and I'll draw a diagram and upload it.

 

[tallbm]

I think i'm starting to understand this some. If i buy the plug n play PID i would need to put a new cord from the heating element to the back of the PID? And unwire all the rest of the original components? The element would have a new power cord plugged into the smoker tower plug. What about a ground?

You are starting to get the idea. What you suggest is one way for sure.
A simpler approach is just to take the existing wiring in their today and do a simple rewire.

See the image below as the reference:

• Keep Ground(3) there as it is
• Unhook HOT(1) from the switch, Unhook Element hot(7) from the existing controller, and connect the two ends together (you can use a butt splice connector, or wire nut splice, etc.)
• Unhook Neutral(2) from the switch, Unhook Element Neutral(6) from the switch, and connect the two ends together (you can use a butt splice connector, or wire nut splice, etc.)

Do that and you can use your current (or any applicable) Auber Plug N Play PID with the TSM. Also there will be NO electricity flowing into the old TSM controller or components so no need to pull it out or mess with it as it has been completely bypassed :)

Let me know if this makes sense :)

 

[dward51]

Rick,

Basically with my mod you can take the control box you now have (the one mounted to TSM smoker) completely off and just rewire the new (or old if the one you have works OK) heating element with a standard grounded 110v plug. Based on the photo you posted of the replacement elements, they appear to have standard bladed connectors. You could buy a couple of feet of SJ 12-3 wire from Home Depot along with the crimp connectors to make a new cord for the element to the PID controller

You could use this plug from Home Depot (about $3) or any similar plug. You want to wire this so you can plug the element directly into the back of the Auber PID box you have.

You want to plug it in on the back of the PID where it says "To smoker tower"....

 

[dward51]

If you make a new cord and unhook the existing wires from the heating element (but leave them in the back of the cabinet - tape over them with electrical tape very well "just in case"), you can go back to factory by just removing the new "extension cord" mod and plugging the blade terminals back into the original wiring. You want to tape over both terminal connectors when you remove the existing connector from the element in case someone plugs the smoker in like normal and turns the power on. If not insulated well with electrical tape, those connectors will be live with 110v AC and could ground out to the cabinet. That's the "just in case".

That way you can use the PID and if it ever flakes out (unlikely), just open the back, untape the original connectors and put them back on the element and you are back up without having to order parts. Or if you sell he TSM to buy another smoker it can be sold as "stock" and you can use the PID on another project.

 

[tallbm]

dward51 has a great option as well :)

 

[BGKYSmoker]

Thanks guys.

I think i can manage to do the un plug stuff and go with the PnP PID

 

[tallbm]

Thanks guys.

I think i can manage to do the un plug stuff and go with the PnP PID

If your TSM wiring size/guage is 14 AWG (like the MES) then this chord is right up your alley for doing the 2nd chord rewire job that dward51 has explained.

These cord stress relief gland joints will also work for the power chord. You use one of these in the new hole you drill into your TSM for inserting the new cord. You put the chord through this device and then you tighten this device down on the chord so now when the chord is pulled it won't yank the wires from the heating element. Yanking the chord is stopped by this device and the frame you have installed it in :)

On the left hand side of the image below you can see me using the same cord and cord relief gland to build my own PID controller with custom housing box for all the components to sit in:

Let me know if these parts make sense :)

 

[BGKYSmoker]

Yes i understand. TY

When i got all the new parts i bought a new outdoor 8' 14 awg cord.

Thanks

 

[BGKYSmoker]

Ok

If i go with how dw posted can i do this.
The power and neutral wires already have the female type push plug. Can i put the spade end on the power and neutral from the element and just push em together and elect tape real good or shrink tube em?

Sorry for the newb electrical questions.

 

[tallbm]

Ok

If i go with how dw posted can i do this.
The power and neutral wires already have the female type push plug. Can i put the spade end on the power and neutral from the element and just push em together and elect tape real good or shrink tube em?

Sorry for the newb electrical questions.

View attachment 345110

Yep, you can totally do that. I actually did that on my MES :D
Make sure there is no looseness or wiggle with your connections because they will overheat and burn up over time if there is.

Also be SURE to use your connectors that are colored Blue. The Blue colored connectors are 14-16 AWG size.
Red are 16-20 AWG. The Red may work but the Blue are are a better fit.

As for the connectors you put on the heating element you will want to use Hi Temp Stainless Steep ones like the ones below. They shouldn't corrode. Also Heat Shrink insulation is a good idea, I just tighten it with a lighter, no need for a heat gun :)

or these if you need flag spade for space/fit reasons

 

[BGKYSmoker]

I cant seem to locate the SS high temp male end on Amazon

 

[daveomak]

Remove the insulation with a box knife...

 

[tallbm]

I cant seem to locate the SS high temp male end on Amazon

You should only need the hi temp connectors for connecting directly to the heating element. The wires that are elsewhere should be ok with standard connectors... unless they are getting a lot of heat where they are at :)