Barn tear down...Shed build pics.

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Well..hopefully no mice will be able to get in. I should mention that this will be more than a shed actually...Lets call it a work shop with a ton of storage space. I will have a 6-8' work bench on one side.
I want one of those, too.
I only mention pipe and wire as it used to be cheaper than Romex for materials. Labor makes it higher, but you work for free?
Also wherever you plan to set an outlet (duplex receptacle) place a full square or box for 2 duplex outlets. Amazing how you get an appliance farm gathered around outlets. Also spend a little more for spec (commercial) grade outlets.

Remember , a truss is built for vertical load . Not horizontal , and not for wind shear .
I would put a stay lath through the center . Top of the bottom chord ( as suggested above ) and a rack brace from the top of the gable ends down to a solid horizontal transfer point . From both directions .

Nice job on those truss Keith .
Your photo of the metal shed with the scissor trusses shows the rack bracing under the rafter really well.

You have been patient with me Chop. You're the pro. I did this for friends and family in 3 states. Amazing how things change across the regions.
 
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The salvaged tin is in good shape, and after patching it may last a while, but if not I can always upgrade to galvalum later. I can't complain about the price for the old tin though....and it has enabled me to build the work shop focusing expenses where needed. I did buy new roofing metal though. Refuse to use old stuff there.
 
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I was able to finish all the roof trusses today. Then went to my Uncle's and we finished framing the double doors. Brought those home on a trailer. I cleared the deck floor, ready to go up with the walls. I'll be doing prep tomorrow afternoon...layout on the deck, cutting studs to size, fabricating the door headers.
 
You have been patient with me Chop. You're the pro. I did this for friends and family in 3 states. Amazing how things change across the regions.
John , I worked with guys that couldn't brace a building , so you don't have to do it for a living to have an idea and some knowledge of how it goes . I did commercial structural studs .
Had to know loads and seismic zones . St. Louis actually started using coastal specs and codes on buildings tagged as a " Safe place " . Library's , schools , firehouses . It's all about transferring the load to other members or the ground so it multiplies out and dissipates .
 
Spent the morning running around picking up some things I needed for the build. Then when it had warmed up a little mid morning, I re-leveled the corners using a 2 ton jack after letting off the tension on the tie-down anchors. I got it fairly level-especially where the doors are located. If I raised it too much, it affected the middle blocks and no way I can reach under there to add shims. Hoping it'll settle over time. But the floor is rock solid. Thanks to chopsaw chopsaw and Fueling Around Fueling Around for the helpful advice.
Finished leveling around lunch. Then one thing I did thinking ahead, I traced the truss outline on the floor of the shop.
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This will come in handy when I go to cut the angle on the tin for the gable ends. I can use the lines to transfer the angle on the tin for the cut. The 6' door will be at the opposite end so no problem there.

I ate on the go...some snack sticks and potato chips with some ice tea.
Finally framing the walls! I feel like I am accomplishing something now.
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Few errands tonight, and then tomorrow I should get the other three walls up. The opposite wall is laid out, I just gotta get some more nails for the nail gun. Otherwise, woulda had it up today. Wall went up easy peasy with a long kickstand board on each side. I screwed some stops on the deck to push against and raised it myself no problem.
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I think those rafter boards from the lean to patio cover we salvaged are spruce. fairly light wood....and dry no doubt.

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2x6 studs on 2' center. Rafters will be on 2' center as well so there will be a rafter over each stud...
That is stout walls and truss spacing. I've seen less back in MN and we have to calculate snow load.
Are you planning to cut in diagonal 1/2 bracing on the side walls? Maybe you are planning on interior sheathing? Either is needed to prevent the racking of the side walls.
Racking is the same as flattening a square cardboard box. No matter the number or size of the studs it will collapse without diagonal bracing or sheathing when the winds hit.
Chop asked about closure boards for the roof tin at the stud wall. Yes they make them. just need to ask at local building center. Expensive but hard to duplicate as they have you at an advantage.
 
That is stout walls and truss spacing.
I've got plenty of wood....making it stout.
Are you planning to cut in diagonal 1/2 bracing on the side walls
Yes, will add diagonals on all sides. Going to use 2x6 for the diagonals on the outside, then add 2X4 horizontal perlings spliced in around the bracing on 2' spacing for the wall tin. The tin on the walls will run vertically.
Chop asked about closure boards for the roof tin at the stud wall.
Gonna run the tin from 1" below the floor joists to the gable. Will add a 3 1/2" gable flashing all round once the side tin is installed. Will only use a couple screws on the bottom row on the roof until I can add the flashing, then go every 4" spacing along the bottom row. Butyl tape everywhere needed....top and bottom of the foam closure strips.
 
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Do they make a closure strip for the old style corrugated tin? I bought the closures for the new roof tin, but If I can get the strips for the old tin. I will buy those as well.
 
A metal strap {hurricane straps} from the truss down onto the stud then another from the stud to the floor joist would really help with strength and high winds. They make the hurricane strapping in a roll you might consider running it from floor joist up the stud over the truss and back down the stud to the floor joist on the ends. A lot for a shed and the price of the strapping has gone crazy but depending on what you are putting inside it might be worth the expense and aggravation makes a big difference in hurricane force winds.
 
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Wisdom for the day....

You can nail a screw, but you can not screw a nail! HA!

I tried both today! LOL! Nail gun went inoperable. trigger must be stuck as it will not fire, and just bleeds air through the vent port. Thus, I had two different fasteners in my tool belt...kept grabbing the wrong one! LOL! That slowed me down today...was hoping to get all the walls standing but only got two more done today. Went old school...hammer and nail. Of course, they did not have 3" rim shank nails at the big box store...only 3 1/2".
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Last wall is the one with the 6' double door. Should get that done tomorrow, then install the header plate to tie the walls together. Then up with the trusses...and perlings if I get that far. Hope to be working on roof galvalum by Thursday and finish up on Friday. Got another front with 1-2" of rain so hope to get the roof on before then. Then I'm taking a break I gotta make some Finocchiona salami and we bottle wine on Friday!!
 
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cheaper than Romex for materials
I should add that we salvaged about 250-300ft. of romex wire from the tear down. Mostly long lengths, with a few 20-30ft. runs. Won't be buying any wire and will use what we got.
FYI, I priced romex walking through the big box store...about fell on the floor! Jesus that stuff has skyrocketed in price!!!
 
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I should add that we salvaged about 250-300ft. of romex wire from the tear down. Mostly long lengths, with a few 20-30ft. runs. Won't be buying any wire and will use what we got.
FYI, I priced romex walking through the big box store...about fell on the floor! Jesus that stuff has skyrocketed in price!!!
You think 12g or 14g, try looking at 6g.....I need to run about 20ft for a 40-amp circuit and it brought more tears to my eyes than cutting onions all day long.

The shed is looking good! Losing the NG and switching to the hammer means you are good for the work out day as well!
 
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You think 12g or 14g, try looking at 6g.....I need to run about 20ft for a 40-amp circuit and it brought more tears to my eyes than cutting onions all day long.

The shed is looking good! Losing the NG and switching to the hammer means you are good for the work out day as well!
Oh- you don't have to tell me!!! That also reminds me, we also got 120' of 6ga. wire. It was run along the wall under the patio cover for a ground rod wire. That will be enough to go from the panel in the house to the carport for a 220v plug for the welder.

Workout indeed! swinging a 20oz. Estwing! BTW, I've lost 12# and 1 loop on my belt since I've started this project!!! LOL!!
 
Oh- you don't have to tell me!!! That also reminds me, we also got 120' of 6ga. wire. It was run along the wall under the patio cover for a ground rod wire. That will be enough to go from the panel in the house to the carport for a 220v plug for the welder.

Workout indeed! swinging a 20oz. Estwing! BTW, I've lost 12# and 1 loop on my belt since I've started this project!!! LOL!!
Sounds like you need a couple meals at the firehouse... they can plump you right back up! :emoji_blush:

Ryan
 
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Oh- you don't have to tell me!!! That also reminds me, we also got 120' of 6ga. wire. It was run along the wall under the patio cover for a ground rod wire. That will be enough to go from the panel in the house to the carport for a 220v plug for the welder.

Workout indeed! swinging a 20oz. Estwing! BTW, I've lost 12# and 1 loop on my belt since I've started this project!!! LOL!!
Nice, I can see it now on I-fit..... the 20oz Estwing rest stop.....I'm STILL waiting for spring so the wt loss programs, aka honey do's can begin.....LOL
 
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They keep it locked up at the Lowe's I go to. Sign of the times...
Same at my Home Depot. And I live in a good neighborhood.
If you have small projects only needing 50' or so, check out Walmart...14awg romex is much cheaper there.
 
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