Another MES 40 Gen 2 Victim

[Winterrider]

Did a heat test yesterday in my MES to find hot/cold spots. Had Maverick 733 on left side top and bottom, ThermPro TP 20 right side top and bottom. MES meat probe in center. All probes tested boiling water, 733 were both 212 ,TP20 both 211, MES probe 198. Set smoker @275, top 2 probes maxed out @244 , bottom left @ 239 ( knew that was the cold spot), bottom right @ 242, center @ 240. Smoker cycled up as high as 302 according to sensor. Think a phone call is in order tomorrow. Tuff figures to adjust to.

 

[nanuk]

at least you have even heating.... Use a secondary probe to monitor interior temps, and just adjust the MES as needed to get what you need.
disregard the MES Temp readout. Trust your tested probes.

 

[Bloodtrail]

Newbie here. What’s a mES?

 

[nanuk]

Masterbuilt Electric Smoker MES30 is 30" high, MES40 is 40" high.... then there are different generations/series....

 

[Bloodtrail]

Awesome, thanks. I had a MES 40”. Used if for about 6 months before the heating element went out. Took it back.

 

[Winterrider]

Bad thing is I can't do anything at a higher than 245 degree temp.

 

[Bearcarver]

Did a heat test yesterday in my MES to find hot/cold spots. Had Maverick 733 on left side top and bottom, ThermPro TP 20 right side top and bottom. MES meat probe in center. All probes tested boiling water, 733 were both 212 ,TP20 both 211, MES probe 198. Set smoker @275, top 2 probes maxed out @244 , bottom left @ 239 ( knew that was the cold spot), bottom right @ 242, center @ 240. Smoker cycled up as high as 302 according to sensor. Think a phone call is in order tomorrow. Tuff figures to adjust to.

If your MES was set at 275°, and all of your Digital probes are measuring 245° or less (MAX), I would call them & tell them your Smoker won't heat above 245°, and you paid for a Smoker that heats from 100° to 275°.
Be nice, and they should make it good in some way. Probably a New Control unit.

Bear

 

[Winterrider]

Very nice customer service. I did call today and they tried to troubleshoot a few things with me . I was able to get the higher temps but the overruns both ways are still way to extreme. I did a test at 235 and watched the cycles numerous times. Noticed on the down cycle the controller tried to kick in at 234 but didn't actually, but would go at 231. Well this allowed temp to drop an extra 5 degrees on top of the normal run. Saw this happen 4 different times. Will call tomorrow for new controller $49.99. Purchased 2015

 

[Bearcarver]

Very nice customer service. I did call today and they tried to troubleshoot a few things with me . I was able to get the higher temps but the overruns both ways are still way to extreme. I did a test at 235 and watched the cycles numerous times. Noticed on the down cycle the controller tried to kick in at 234 but didn't actually, but would go at 231. Well this allowed temp to drop an extra 5 degrees on top of the normal run. Saw this happen 4 different times. Will call tomorrow for new controller $49.99. Purchased 2015

That coasting down in Temp before rising, and up in Temp before falling is quite normal. I'm sure your Kitchen Oven is just as bad if you put a therm in & checked it.
However not being able to get the heat above 245° is not good. A new controller should fix that.

Here's a bit on eliminating much of that "Overrun" problem:
Avoid Temp Swings in MES


Bear

 

[Winterrider]

Thanks Bear, I have read that and it does help. My overruns @235 went all the way to 252 on high end and 218 on the low end and that is with Thermpro TP20. Overruns never did get any closer after 6-7 cycles. But I did see the power light try and come on @234 but didn't until 231. Masterbuilt having technical issues so no processing orders (controller) yet this Am. Oh well , try again this afternoon.
Anyone else check temp by sensor? Set @ 275 unit kicked out @ 356, cooled and back on @319

 

[Bearcarver]

Anyone else check temp by sensor? Set @ 275 unit kicked out @ 356, cooled and back on @319.

You gotta get that new controller. I had a bad one once & it got over 325°. I could hear the insulation between the walls crinkling, and it kept up until it got back down to a decent temp.
319° is not good---356° is real bad, if those were your actual Temps!!!

Upon rereading this, I'm not sure what sensor you're talking about kicking off at 356 & back on at 319. I thought you couldn't get above 245°.

Bear

 

[Winterrider]

With their troubleshoot, unplugging controller and plug back in they said it may reset. Cleaned probe and sensor (dime sized circle) on back wall about even with 2nd rack. Yes controller is a must...

 

[dr k]

Your scenario is the same as mine when I decided on the WS-1510-ELPM Auber plug and play PID controller with tallbm's no back removal simple 10 minute bypass. Now you can calibrate the sensor in boiling water to compare to your elevation boiling temp. You can bring your controller inside when not using it. You can Sou Vide/make yogurt with your analog slow cooker/rice cooker. Your sensor threaded down the smoker exhaust vent can hang/clip next to your food or between racks for multiple rack smokes instead of a fixed sensor on the back wall. I would take the $50.00 MB wants for their controller and invest it in something much more substantial and versatile. I went on Auberins.com and read their manual online for the above controller when I wanted to cook ribs, pork butts and full packer brisket at 275*naked the whole time and could only get my Mes Gen 1 40 to an actual temp of 250-260* without food in it. My original controller shut off my smoker when I turned on the light so MB sent me a new controller to pair with my original remote which works fine but I still went PID. The longer I'm on SMF Electric Smokers forum the less confident I am with MB's OEM electronics and their philosophy of marketing/selling sub-par BT controller smokers and putting out new BT models before having a rock solid BT app/controller. If the controller was free like others have gotten from warranties that expired five years after purchase, then take it. I would reconsider buying Mes controller pure crap vol. II. The only thing I need from MB is the heating element that fits their smoker and I have a spare because it will fail.

 

[Winterrider]

Darn, wish I would have seen your post earlier Dr K. to investigate. Just got off the phone again from troubleshooting again. Not correct yet, so got one coming in the mail. Forgot to ask if they send new remote with or if my other will still be compatible. Anyone know that has gotten new controller ?

 

[Winterrider]

Dr K, just peeked at that controller. When you say plug and play, the bypass consists of what? Is it explained? I have to admit, I am electrically challenged.

 

[dr k]

Dr K, just peeked at that controller. When you say plug and play, the bypass consists of what? Is it explained? I have to admit, I am electrically challenged.

For my Gen 1 40 in the back of the manual it shows a few steps on how to pair your rf remote to the controller. I think all models with rf remote should have it in the manual.

If you search here on SMF you'll see the thread by tallbm, simple no back removal rewire or something similar to that title.

 

[tallbm]

Dr K, just peeked at that controller. When you say plug and play, the bypass consists of what? Is it explained? I have to admit, I am electrically challenged.

Hi there and welcome!
See below after the dr k quote :)

For my Gen 1 40 in the back of the manual it shows a few steps on how to pair your rf remote to the controller. I think all models with rf remote should have it in the manual.

If you search here on SMF you'll see the thread by tallbm, simple no back removal rewire or something similar to that title.

Here's the simple no back removal post: https://www.smokingmeatforums.com/threads/mes-rewire-simple-guide-no-back-removal-needed.267069/

In a nutshell the rewire simply bypasses the MES control so that when you plug in the MES chord the electricity feeds to the heating element without the controller involved. Now it simply just heats up and never stops like this. Hence the need for the Auber Plug and PLay PID Controller.

The Auber PID controller has a temp probe you stick inside the MES (through the vent) to measure the temp in the smoker.
You plug your MES into the Auber PID Controller so the controller will now cut the power on/off to the MES.
Finally, you plug the Auber PID Controller into the wall socket.

Power goes from Wall > Auber PID Controller > MES Heating element.
You punch into the Auber PID controller your desired set temp (225F) and the Auber will cut the power on/off to the MES to hold a 225F temp inside the smoker.

It's pretty simple. If you don't care to replace the crappy electrical connectors that masterbuilt uses, the rewire job is as simple as cutting the ends of 4 wires and then splicing the 4 wires to become 2 wires. Then buying and using an Auber plug and play PID Controller. All done! :)

I hope this info helps :)

 

[Bearcarver]

Dr K, just peeked at that controller. When you say plug and play, the bypass consists of what? Is it explained? I have to admit, I am electrically challenged.

If you would rather go with some type of aftermarket PID, there are guys who can help you, like "tallbm".

BTW: The dime sized circle on the back wall, I believe is the Overheat sensor.
The Smoker Heat sensor is the thing on the back wall that looks like a little "Toggle Switch".

Bear

 

[Winterrider]

Thanks all; if the new controller doesn't do the trick, I'm in...

 

[muddydogs]

Your scenario is the same as mine when I decided on the WS-1510-ELPM Auber plug and play PID controller with tallbm's no back removal simple 10 minute bypass. Now you can calibrate the sensor in boiling water to compare to your elevation boiling temp. You can bring your controller inside when not using it. You can Sou Vide/make yogurt with your analog slow cooker/rice cooker. Your sensor threaded down the smoker exhaust vent can hang/clip next to your food or between racks for multiple rack smokes instead of a fixed sensor on the back wall. I would take the $50.00 MB wants for their controller and invest it in something much more substantial and versatile. I went on Auberins.com and read their manual online for the above controller when I wanted to cook ribs, pork butts and full packer brisket at 275*naked the whole time and could only get my Mes Gen 1 40 to an actual temp of 250-260* without food in it. My original controller shut off my smoker when I turned on the light so MB sent me a new controller to pair with my original remote which works fine but I still went PID. The longer I'm on SMF Electric Smokers forum the less confident I am with MB's OEM electronics and their philosophy of marketing/selling sub-par BT controller smokers and putting out new BT models before having a rock solid BT app/controller. If the controller was free like others have gotten from warranties that expired five years after purchase, then take it. I would reconsider buying Mes controller pure crap vol. II. The only thing I need from MB is the heating element that fits their smoker and I have a spare because it will fail.

What dr k posted. The Auber works great though I feel kind of silly purchasing a MES 40 then gutting it within a couple months to add the Auber, I also removed the chip loader, chip tray and water pan. Good thing I got the MES on sale.