adding PID to an older Smokey Hollow

[clifish]

I know PID have numerous threads here and I have looked into a bunch of them. My questions is I have a Smokey Hollow below with a rheostat type of controller.

Could I add the inkbird controller listed below, plug the cord from the smoker (I imagine keeping the rheostat set to max) into the inkbird and maintain decent temps (+/-10 deg or so)?


or will I have to actually rewire the heating element directly to a pid? I really don't need wifi but want something simple as I am not thrilled with playing with wiring.

 

[Steve H]

What is the wattage on your smoker?

 

[Steve H]

Also, that one only goes to 250 degrees.
I've been looking at this one for a friend.

 

[clifish]

I believe it is a 1500 watt...so I see the one I referenced is only 1100 would an 1800 watt version of the one I listed work?

 

[Steve H]

The InkBird ones. At least the ones I've seen. Only go to 220 degrees. This one can handle 1650 watts. And goes to 500 degrees.

 

[clifish]

Also, that one only goes to 250 degrees.
I've been looking at this one for a friend.

Thanks...so is it as simple as plugging in the current smoker with it set to high and setting the temp on pid (after probe is in place) and thats it?

 

[Steve H]

Thanks...so is it as simple as plugging in the current smoker with it set to high and setting the temp on pid (after probe is in place) and thats it?

Yup, it's that easy. I'm not knocking InkBird. And if you're not going to go over 212 degrees. Then they have one that'll work for you. I just sometimes cook at 275 or higher.

 

[clifish]

Thanks man! All I need to do now is the mailbox mod...I have the amps tray and tube but still don't quite like the smoke profile I get...I still might keep my eye out for a good used WSM even if just to play around with charcoal/real wood.

 

[radioguy]

Thanks...so is it as simple as plugging in the current smoker with it set to high and setting the temp on pid (after probe is in place) and thats it?

Yes thats about it. I will warn you about the eventual failure of the "frypan" cord/controller. I have the same smoker. After about 3 years of use it burned up the plug in at the element. I rebuilt it with PID controller and now it runs great. Just keep an eye on the connections for problems.

I don't use the electric to cook much any more. But its great for sausage and jerky.
RG

 

[clifish]

Yes thats about it. I will warn you about the eventual failure of the "frypan" cord/controller. I have the same smoker. After about 3 years of use it burned up the plug in at the element. I rebuilt it with PID controller and now it runs great. Just keep an eye on the connections for problems.

I don't use the electric to cook much any more. But its great for sausage and jerky.
RG

yeah I am waiting for the eventual wire burn out I read about

 

[Steve H]

Thanks man! All I need to do now is the mailbox mod...I have the amps tray and tube but still don't quite like the smoke profile I get...I still might keep my eye out for a good used WSM even if just to play around with charcoal/real wood.

Your welcome! Keep us posted on your progress.

 

[dr k]

Thanks...so is it as simple as plugging in the current smoker with it set to high and setting the temp on pid (after probe is in place) and thats it?

The 1650 watt steve linked is the way to go and it's not a PID it's an on off contoller like the rheostat stock one with the smoker so if set to heat up to 99* and shut off at 100*. This will give you an actual temp to set to and the probe is next to your food to maintain heat at your food level. You'll have more coasting than a PID but less than the rheostat alone. just set the rheostat to max.

 

[Steve H]

The 1650 watt steve linked is the way to go and it's not a PID it's an on off contoller like the rheostat stock one with the smoker so if set to heat up to 99* and shut off at 100*. This will give you an actual temp to set to and the probe is next to your food to maintain heat at your food level. You'll have more coasting than a PID but less than the rheostat alone. just set the rheostat to max.

That is true. Most of the lower cost plug and play ones are not PID. You'll need to spend more $$. Or build a true PID. So there will be coasting (overshoot) beyond the set point. But not as far and more accurate because you can see the temp you are inputting. Not poking and hoping like the dial analog controls.

 

[dr k]

Thanks man! All I need to do now is the mailbox mod...I have the amps tray and tube but still don't quite like the smoke profile I get...I still might keep my eye out for a good used WSM even if just to play around with charcoal/real wood.

This is an idea I had for MB smokers that aren't digital without 3" top and bottom holes. Make bottom drain hole 3," and top vent. The bottom T has a can with water to seal for air intake through the mailbox and to catch drips for double duty. W

hen bottom is foiled over with a 2.5 hole in the foil or so to funnel into the 3" drain catch. Dave Omaks style of fitting attachment to the mailbox would be the same as the bottom T so it can spin so the mailbox cand be on any side

 

[Steve H]

Here's my set up.

 

[clifish]

This is an idea I had for MB smokers that aren't digital without 3" top and bottom holes. Make bottom drain hole 3," and top vent. The bottom T has a can with water to seal for air intake through the mailbox and to catch drips for double duty. WView attachment 428735hen bottom is foiled over with a 2.5 hole in the foil or so to funnel into the 3" drain catch. Dave Omaks style of fitting attachment to the mailbox would be the same as the bottom T so it can spin so the mailbox cand be on any side

I will have to address the lack of airflow when I mod it, Right now there is only a 7/8" hole at the top back for exit. Do I want the mailbox to enter the bottom or the lower side of the smoker?

 

[clifish]

Here's my set up.

View attachment 428741

what size tube connecting is that? looks smaller than 3"

 

[Steve H]

what size tube connecting is that? looks smaller than 3"

It's 1.5" stainless steel pipe. On the front of the mailbox you can see the muffin fan. It is on a speed control to gently create a breeze across the tray.

 

[dr k]

I will have to address the lack of airflow when I mod it, Right now there is only a 7/8" hole at the top back for exit. Do I want the mailbox to enter the bottom or the lower side of the smoker?

The fewer holes the better because the door maybe leaky so making the drain and air intake the same hole sounds good when making a bigger lower hole. Plug the 7/8" and put in a 3" top ajustable vent. Keeping the holes centered/symmetrical to the whole unit for even heating and a hanging small aluminum ashtray/dish inside the smoker beneath the top 3" vent to catch condensation and keep off food. The bottom soda/soup can with a little water to seal the T and can joint may need a stand or brick to elevate it up to the T and keep as much air coming through the mailbox.

 

[dr k]

Make it short for normal use bottom vent or side.


Long for cold smoking. Add 3"x24" sections of vent pipe.


or super collider long like former member Mr. T did for cheeses. He suggested bags of ice on top of the mailbox and pipe to suck out heat at the source vs. inside the smoker.