260 Gal Build

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I'm guessing u only need a degree or 2. They add up fast at that length. I'd need to see pics of the grate and inside cooker to give good advise on that. But how about just going across the grate with angle steel?
 
 
After smoking a whole hog. The guy running the smoker was watching the temps and read somewhere I think Lang smokers that opposite the FB needed to be angled up slightly. He said he was having a hard time getting temps to stay when it was level, after he raised the nose up slightly, temps stayed steady at 246.

Curious, does anyone know the angle recommended? I'd like to find a level to install for when I place the trailer it'll be ready.

A lang 84 cooker has a 3" fall away from the firebox. If you are level on your plate or just a slight fall this idea rarely makes a difference I have tried it on my big reverse flow with a 1" fall and it made no difference.

Might be cooking another whole hog soon, the only problem was the rack which I used angle iron slightly sagged towards rear (I added angle iron step for it to rest on), was told it was a PIA to lift it on tab.

Would using 1" tube steel frame prevent sagging? Will make another if needed or just weld on some strips of steel for the racks to slide on.

My big cookers top grate is 24" x  50" 1" x 1" x 1/4" angle with two 1/2" rods as stiffeners. It is designed to drop down for hog cooks it has never sagged. You may look at something like that.

Last, I'd like to insulate the Firebox and Warming Box, what metal do you use to make the gap and how do you seal the holes if using sheetmetal to prevent water from getting in the insulation. I'll be using 1" K-wool.  

Frame the outer edges with 1.25" x 3/16"  angle then apply the k-wool and skin it.

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I'm guessing u only need a degree or 2. They add up fast at that length. I'd need to see pics of the grate and inside cooker to give good advise on that. But how about just going across the grate with angle steel?
I might just do the angle, just didn't think I would do it as I may need to clean the RF plate from time to time. Guess not a big deal. Better to have the hog go in quickly than to fight the grate and lose heat. I'll try to remember to take pics of the insides.
 
Curious, I have been looking at a lot of smokers for doing cold smoking and was wondering why I cannot turn my warming box into a smoker and what do I need to do to make it work. After looking at store bought "smokehouse" and looking at my warming box, they are basically the same thing. Just my setup is thicker steel and bigger.

Figured I would either use the FB as a heat box or make a charcoal, gas or electric heater on bottom of the warming box.

What is the best source of heat and where? FB using charcoal/wood, or electric/gas in warming box?

Best placement of the intake and exhaust vents?

The FB has been over sized on purpose in case I wanted a little extra added. So what I was thinking and not sure which way to go is to either cut a hole between CC and warming box to allow heat/smoke into the warming box to add extra cooking area, or cut a hole directly above the FB with an adjustable plate?

Not sure the best way for the heat/smoke flows. And be able to use it as a smoker only for low temps or cold smoking.

Open to suggestions.

Pics of my warming box:


 
The warmer on my big cooker is set up to accept smoke through a slide damper connected to the cooking chamber. During normal running the the damper is closed and the warmer runs around 155° /  175°. If I slide my tuning plates and open the damper and warmers exhaust she will climb to above 250° but that is with a regular sized coal base. I imagine using a smaller coal base would get me to cold smoke temps.



 
How do I figure size opening and exhaust vent for the warming box? I have 4" pipe for exhaust and left over 7" pipe. 

I plan to cut an opening on top of the firebox and add a slider to adjust the opening instead of trying to cut in the side of the CC and FB (more work and a 1/2" gap).

I think I'll add a plate over the FB opening so it'll disperse the heat and smoke instead of straight up, both the exhaust and intake will be directly across each other.
 
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