1930's Servel Electrolux Gas Fridge Build. Lots of Pics

Discussion in 'Fridge/Freezer Builds' started by rednek-, Jan 1, 2013.

  1. Wow!
  2. mike johnson

    mike johnson Master of the Pit Group Lead OTBS Member

    Holy crap. Your one lucky man.
  3. redruff

    redruff Newbie

    Wow! Glad to hear your OK, and that you sort of dodge a bullet!

    I was wondering about that! I ran it up fairly high to test for hot/cold spots the other day and you could smell stuff getting hot. Especially directly under the element on the bottom.

    How tough is it to take off the shell and get in there?


    Last edited: Jan 31, 2014
  4. Red,

    It's pretty obvious that I cannot answer that .  LOL

    On my new 1947 Servel that I will be building the top and sides are easily removed and I have already done so.

    There are metal straps that wrap around the fridge box that holds the insulation panels in place.
  5. jf20137578

    jf20137578 Newbie

    Man that suck,I am building that exact smoker set up.
  6. phantom59

    phantom59 Newbie

    Found this post when I was trying to figure out what to do with my recently acquired servel. I love what you did but not the end result and fire. I noticed that the entire frame of this is oak so what do you suggest to I do to mine so as not to have similar problems to yours?
  7. redruff

    redruff Newbie

  8. Take out all the insulation and replace it with Roxul insulation. The biggest mistake I made was using it as an oven and cranked up the heat to 425. Those high temps started the smolder the insulation and when it got to the oak frame it really went up in flame.
  9. phantom59

    phantom59 Newbie

    I have the shell off and getting ready to remove the old insulation now do you think the roxul is necessary or would unfaced fiberglass work ?
  10. redruff

    redruff Newbie

    use roxul, fiberglass and food doesn't sound too tasty....Roxul does not either, but at least its not as irritating and roxul is an organic material.

    As long as your in there...do it right...this smoker is going to last a lifetime...spend a little more now so you are comfortable using it!
  11. phantom59

    phantom59 Newbie

    Well I'm down to a wood frame and a steel tub so I'm on my way. What do you think about the black plastic that fits into the door jams? It looks like bakeolite so I think it would be ok to put back. Also I'm probably going to go electric with some type of thermostat and a high limit set at 300 deg.
  12. redruff

    redruff Newbie

    if we are talking the same black part, I think its porcelain. 
  13. redruff

    redruff Newbie

    AND fyi...my Lowe's did not have the Roxul in stock, I had to order and deliver to the store..a week long process.

    BUT I was in Home Depot yesterday and they have it on the shelf...same price!
  14. phantom59

    phantom59 Newbie

    No it's plastic cause I cracked one removing it to get to the nails. It's also around the door.
  15. redruff

    redruff Newbie

    Mine is different then, I can't completely remove my shell, because my black part is pinched/seamed right to the shell.

    Mine was a propane version so may be different.
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2014
  16. Definitely use Roxul. There is not that much difference in price for the safety value.
  17. phantom59

    phantom59 Newbie

    New insulation in and going back together next step is to figure out how to get the door apart.
  18. I am working on one of these as well.  The complete ammonia unit can be removed as a unit, 8 bolts on the rear and the freezer unit will slide out the rear with the unit.  Mine had cardboard insulation, 3 inches thick, but it comes out very easy.  I am a little concerned with the wooden frame that separated the inside box from the outside and is what the door mounts to, not sure how to keep the hot element from overheating it and starting a fire.  Once the insulation is removed, look over the outside box well, mime had what looks like roofing tar sealing the back and bottom to the sides.  I used a propane torch and scraper to CAREFULLY heat and remove as much as I could.  I plan on using 3 inch rock-wool for insulation, and building a box to drop the electric heating element below the floor about 8 to 10 inches to increase the size of the smoking cabinet. I have the pid and heater, just need to find time to get every thing put to gather.  I will use Todd's wonderful invention to provide the smoke and flavor, with the mailbox mod. to house it.

    Rednek, Great looking build, hope mine comes out looking that good.

    Last edited: May 1, 2014
  19. redruff

    redruff Newbie

    Let us know how to get into the door! I don't know either, but for now I'm going to leave it.

    I figure its probably the coolest part of the cabinet, sealed pretty well so it would have a tough time burning,  Cross your fingers! But I think I can get by without getting into it.

    I apparently lucked out! Mine did not have any tar, etc. My insulation bats were wrapped in tar paper and metal strapped around the cabinet. Very clean and easy to remove the insulation without completely removing the shell.

Share This Page