WSM 22 Airflow

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Chrisjo

Newbie
Original poster
May 30, 2018
7
1
Firstly, thank you all for the wealth of information found here. It’s like a free degree in Q-ology here!

I’m having an issue I wanted to feed to the braintrust.

I have a 22” WSM that I’ve been using since Jan. Initially, I didn’t have much issue with temp control. With 2 vents on the bottom closed, one just cracked, and the top vent between 3/4th and completely open, 225-250 was pretty easy to maintain. Recently, I got a Flame Boss 300 and have used it for 3 cooks. The first was flawless, +/- 3 degrees from 225. The second two cooks at about two hours in, the temp shot up to about 280, 30 degrees over where I had it set. Weather was about the same, actually the first flawless cook with it was pretty windy and the other two were mostly windless. The fan didn’t run at all, and even with two bottom vents closed (only the intake where the fan goes in was open) and the exhaust completely shut off, it wouldn’t budge from that 280 for the duration of the cook, about 5 more hours. Initially I was worried about dirty smoke since it was so closed off, but I assume if it can maintain that high of a temperature, there is somehow air coming in and out. I’m trying to figure out the variables that have changed even running it before I had the flame boss and I’m at:
1) one bottom vent always open where the fan goes so that’s possibly leaking some air in.
2) the pit probe is a large clip on the FB so it won’t fit into the grommet and I’m running it under the lid. A good amount of smoke is leaking out where that cable runs under the lid.
3) very doubtful, but of course the subsequent cooks were different bags of Kingsford Blue.

I guess what’s most puzzling is how the first cook held perfect. If all three were wonky, it’d be easier to diagnose. Any help you guys have is appreciated. I ordered a gasket kit and plan on putting some silicone around the fan mount on the intake.
 
Hi Chris, I don't use any type of auxiliary temp controllers so I won't be much of any help there. I do have one question I'm pretty sure that the flame boss only uses one of the three holes are you plugging the other's up?

If your lid is leaking to much from the probe wires running underneath you can always grind out a slot on the center chamber lip so they fit snugly under the lid w/o elevating it.

Lastly your door may be leaking. This is fine when running the WSM stock, but it may be to much with the addition of the flame boss.

Sorry one more - is it possible a larger chunk of wood ignited into flames causing the spike?

Someone who uses something similar will chime in at some point with better suggestions.

Chris.
 
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Hi Chris, I don't use any type of auxiliary temp controllers so I won't be much of any help there. I do have one question I'm pretty sure that the flame boss only uses one of the three holes are you plugging the other's up?

If your lid is leaking to much from the probe wires running underneath you can always grind out a slot on the center chamber lip so they fit snugly under the lid w/o elevating it.

Lastly your door may be leaking. This is fine when running the WSM stock, but it may be to much with the addition of the flame boss.

Sorry one more - is it possible a larger chunk of wood ignited into flames causing the spike?

Someone who uses something similar will chime in at some point with better suggestions.

Chris.

I agree with Chris on all points.
 
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Chrisjo, I have a WSM and a DigiQ. The fact that you closed off the top vent and still maintained a 280F temp tells me something wasn't fitting properly and unwanted air was spiking the fire.

Here are a few lessons I've learned from both the WSM and the temp controller.
1. When you assemble your WSM after loading the hot charcoal, make sure everything is fitting properly. There has been more than one time I had the center barrel tilted just a bit and didn't know it causing a total lack of temp control. Also, that clip WILL fit through the grommet; not the little hole, but the slice. Use some muscle and push it through. Hold the inside of the grommet to keep from pushing the grommet out of its seat.
2. KBB works, but it is currently formulated for a grill, not a smoker. It can deliver inconsistent temps from smoke to smoke and was the reason I switch to RO Ridge. RO Ridge holds steadier temps, but is VERY likely to run hot if you load too much hot charcoal in the beginning. Lump works great, but likes to run in the 275F range in the WSM.
3. Bury your wood in the charcoal. Don't put it on top of the cold charcoal. When you bury your wood, it allows the wood to pre-heat and carbonize more cleanly. It won't ignite and cause flaring temps.
4. A temp controller can over-stoke your fire, causing big spikes in the chamber temp. If your fan output that connects to the WSM has a slide to control the amount of air going into the chamber, use it. For 225F smokes with my DigiQ that slide is only open 1/4 way.
5. If you can control your temps with the bottom/top vents, do that, and use your temp controller as an insurance backup. I usually set my controller 5-10F below my chamber target temp. It comes in handy on overnight smokes when wind or falling outside temps can influence your chamber. Also, toward the 12-14 hour point of a smoke when ash buildup can cause falling temps.

Using a nekkid WSM is one learning curve. Adding a controller is another learning curve. The nice thing, they are both quick to learn.
 
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Hi Chris, I don't use any type of auxiliary temp controllers so I won't be much of any help there. I do have one question I'm pretty sure that the flame boss only uses one of the three holes are you plugging the other's up?

If your lid is leaking to much from the probe wires running underneath you can always grind out a slot on the center chamber lip so they fit snugly under the lid w/o elevating it.

Lastly your door may be leaking. This is fine when running the WSM stock, but it may be to much with the addition of the flame boss.

Sorry one more - is it possible a larger chunk of wood ignited into flames causing the spike?

Someone who uses something similar will chime in at some point with better suggestions.

Chris.

I think some of the other stokers have plugs for the other holes and directly go into the third. The FB has a metal dish that covers the entire vent wheel. I’m thinking the door is part of the culprit, I’m not sure if it would be intaking or exhausting air since it’s so close to the fire.
 
Chrisjo, I have a WSM and a DigiQ. The fact that you closed off the top vent and still maintained a 280F temp tells me something wasn't fitting properly and unwanted air was spiking the fire.

Here are a few lessons I've learned from both the WSM and the temp controller.
1. When you assemble your WSM after loading the hot charcoal, make sure everything is fitting properly. There has been more than one time I had the center barrel tilted just a bit and didn't know it causing a total lack of temp control. Also, that clip WILL fit through the grommet; not the little hole, but the slice. Use some muscle and push it through. Hold the inside of the grommet to keep from pushing the grommet out of its seat.
2. KBB works, but it is currently formulated for a grill, not a smoker. It can deliver inconsistent temps from smoke to smoke and was the reason I switch to RO Ridge. RO Ridge holds steadier temps, but is VERY likely to run hot if you load too much hot charcoal in the beginning. Lump works great, but likes to run in the 275F range in the WSM.
3. Bury your wood in the charcoal. Don't put it on top of the cold charcoal. When you bury your wood, it allows the wood to pre-heat and carbonize more cleanly. It won't ignite and cause flaring temps.
4. A temp controller can over-stoke your fire, causing big spikes in the chamber temp. If your fan output that connects to the WSM has a slide to control the amount of air going into the chamber, use it. For 225F smokes with my DigiQ that slide is only open 1/4 way.
5. If you can control your temps with the bottom/top vents, do that, and use your temp controller as an insurance backup. I usually set my controller 5-10F below my chamber target temp. It comes in handy on overnight smokes when wind or falling outside temps can influence your chamber. Also, toward the 12-14 hour point of a smoke when ash buildup can cause falling temps.

Using a nekkid WSM is one learning curve. Adding a controller is another learning curve. The nice thing, they are both quick to learn.

Thanks for all the info! Usually I fish the ring halfway with charcoal, then wood chunks, then the rest of the way with charcoal. The chunks are mostly buried, but the tops are visible, so maybe I need to bury them down a bit deeper. I’ll definitely check the seating on the center barrel. Usually I kind of give it a wiggle and a twist to make sure it’s completely on there. I’m guessing there’s a user error somewhere here, as the first cook went flawless and the subsequent ones did not. Hopefully, once I get the gaskets on and get the door sealed up well, the woes will go away. Thanks again for all the tips.
 
I was watching video on their web site this morning . The part with the WSM has both probes thru the slot in the grommet .
 
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I was watching video on their web site this morning . The part with the WSM has both probes thru the slot in the grommet .
Thanks! I’ll definitely give that a shot putting the probes through the grommet. I made the mistake of putting one of the FB meat probes through the hole of the grommet instead of the slit and that was murderous taking it out. Had to take the grommet out actually, which is a huge PITA to put back in. I’ll try it through the slot and see how that goes!
 
Watch the door next time you fire up the smoker. If it is leaking you can try to gently message it back into shape. Also the more you use the WSM, more of the small gaps will fill as it seasons. If not - Cajun bandit offers a door that fits and works better then the original. Gaskets will also work, but make sure your surfaces are extremely clean before applying them. It sounds like your putting the wood chunks in correctly.

Chris
 
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was murderous taking it out.

After the smoker cools down , pull enough lead thru and take it out the same way you put it in . Be careful not to kink it .

he chamber temp clip on my DigiQ was similar to the one on your Flame Boss, that's why I know it will fit through the slit.

I was just confirming Ray's comment .
 
My WSM has numerous leaks all over it.
The lid, the sides, the door all leak smoke, but I never have a problem running my smoker at any temp between 205-300 with my BBQ Guru setup.
It sounds to me like you just started out with too big a fire.
I start mine with 10-12 lit briquettes on top of the pile of charcoal & wood chunks mixed together.
Then let the Guru take over from there, some times it will over shoot the temp, but it comes right back down in a half hour or so & just stays there. I don't know about the Flame boss, but the Guru seems to learn each time you use it, and the more times it's used the better it becomes at controlling the fire.
Here is what my start up setup looks like.
Minion method 4.jpeg
 
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My WSM has numerous leaks all over it.
The lid, the sides, the door all leak smoke, but I never have a problem running my smoker at any temp between 205-300 with my BBQ Guru setup.
It sounds to me like you just started out with too big a fire.
I start mine with 10-12 lit briquettes on top of the pile of charcoal & wood chunks mixed together.
Then let the Guru take over from there, some times it will over shoot the temp, but it comes right back down in a half hour or so & just stays there. I don't know about the Flame boss, but the Guru seems to learn each time you use it, and the more times it's used the better it becomes at controlling the fire.
Here is what my start up setup looks like.
View attachment 365985

Thanks for the info and the picture! My setup is roughly the same. 3 or 4 wood chunks buried under the ring of charcoal and then 8 or 10 lit coals scattered on top. The only thing I’ve been doing different than your description is letting the WSM naturally come up to temp to about 25-50 degrees under target before turning the fan on. I read that with a bunch of cold meat acting as a heat sink, the blowers have a tendency to overstoke at the beginning and create a fireball early on that can be a pain to tame. I guess the only other thing I didn’t think of until right now is the pit thermometer might be off. I’ll test and throw another one on for the next cook to make sure.
 
Thanks for the info and the picture! My setup is roughly the same. 3 or 4 wood chunks buried under the ring of charcoal and then 8 or 10 lit coals scattered on top. The only thing I’ve been doing different than your description is letting the WSM naturally come up to temp to about 25-50 degrees under target before turning the fan on. I read that with a bunch of cold meat acting as a heat sink, the blowers have a tendency to overstoke at the beginning and create a fireball early on that can be a pain to tame. I guess the only other thing I didn’t think of until right now is the pit thermometer might be off. I’ll test and throw another one on for the next cook to make sure.

I think that that is your problem, let the Guru bring the smoker up to temp. It needs to learn how much air to blow to increase the temp, & not increase it too fast.
Al
 
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Update—I got the gasket installed and that seemed to fix everything. The access door didn’t fit well, and no smoke pours out of it anymore. Started a cook last night, and the FB has held it at 225 +/- 5 degrees for the last 10 hours. Thanks for all your suggestions, folks!
 
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